dickandlois

John, Welcome to the FMCA Forum! Transmission cooling lines go to the top of the radiator - first as this heats the transmission oil faster when its cold out. Regarding connecting it to bottom of the Aux. cooler - think it is done this way to expose the oil to the highest air flow point before returning it back to the transmission, but it could also be routed this way just because its faster when assembling things. Rich.

ObedB, Thanks for the heads up! I filled up in the state back a year ago because they had a lower tax rate then some other states. The real issue is it hurts the residents more then the out of state drivers. With large fuel tanks one can pick where they want to top off the tank. Rich.

Lyle, Think the max temp is 170 deg. - At 150Deg. it is uncomfortable for me! Do you have a meat thermometer? They work quite well to test water temps. Rich.

Nice restore and upgrade! Rich.

Peter, Welcome to the FMCA Forum! I kind of eliminated to pig tale because with the charger / inverter removed, the circuit beakers do not trip! Rich.

Lyle, This is a link to the owners manual for your model. http://www.atwoodmobile.com/manuals/waterheaters/MPD%2093050%20PS%204.9.09.pdf You mentioned that you did not winterize the water heater last year. That being the case - did the coach get exposed to some freezing temperatures, where the water heater mixing valve could have been damaged in some way? Bill made a good point regarding the outside wash station and to think about it, the bathroom shower mixing valve could also cause the problem. Never known one to fail internally in a way that would allow the hot and cold water to mix internally with both valves closed. Although - over the years I have learned to Never say Never !! Rich.

Debroah, Checking things the way Brett mentioned is a start. While you where on your trip, did you use the 30 amp to 50 amp adapter? Removed the Charger / inverter and now shore power beaker does not trip. Thought process! You mentioned that you have no issues when running the generator and the RV service could not find any issues with the Transfer switch. With the inverter removed it sounds like things work, correct? There is the possibility of a Coach battery being Bad. this could place an larger then nominal load on your 30 amp service. One has to remember that the 50 amp service supplies 50 amps on 2-120 volt circuits for a total of 100 amps. The Generator would supply the same current level as a 50 amp service and this problem would not surface. Thinking that you would have 2-120 volt circuits supplied through the charger /inverter and with the inverter disconnected, one of these circuits might be pushing the load over the 30 amps available. The 30 amp. service could be overloaded by the combination of the normal items you run by choice and that extra load placed on the charger by a now bad battery. Rich.

Brett, if your going to do the CAC cleaning in Madison, I might even supply the cold ones and act as the super on the job. You know you always need one and I never know what is going on anyway, that is way I'm always smiling. Rich.

Suzanne, Had to reset the computer. LOL Overworking it. Just have to love when they throw a fit !!! See that you found the bypass function while catching up with you and Brett ! Wonder if you could plug the refrigerator into an extension cord. Are you at a campground where you can plug the extension into a 120 volt outlet and see if the refrigerator runs? If it operates OK then it sounds like there is a wiring issue. Maybe just a loose connection at the box used for the fridge or maybe in the breaker panel, in the circuit that feeds the left side of the coach. Everything worked and if the technician did not tighten a connection a wire has slipped out of where it should be. The thing is if the fridge works by using an extension cord you can keep things cold. Rich.

Suzanne, If your inverter is the Xantrex GT-3100 solar grid model, it is a lot more inverter then what is in most coaches. Should this be the model and you still do not have any output power the information below might be of help. The current levels are higher and one needs to follow some safe protocols. You might need some factory service help on this one. It will take me some time reading over the manual, I have not run into this type of equipment before. Rich. See you just posted that you have a model SW 3012. Totally different unit !!!! To replace a ground fault protection fuse: 1. Cover the PV array with an opaque (dark) material, turn the DC/AC disconnect switch OFF, and turn the AC breaker in the main utility service panel OFF. 2. Remove the wiring/disconnect box cover, as described on page 3–8. 3. Use an appropriately-rated meter to make sure there are no DC or AC voltages present. 4. Remove the display front panel cover (see Figure 6-2), located below the heat sink. Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two external panhead screws and washers and the two screws along the bottom edge of the cover. The ground fault protection fuse is located to the left side of the LCD panel (see Figure 6-3), and to the left of the DC interconnect board for positive grounded units (marked with the “-POS” suffix). 5. Using an insulated fuse puller, remove the blown fuse and replace it with a new AC/DC midget cartridge, rated 600 VDC, 1A (Littelfuse KLKD 1 or equivalent). 6. Replace the display front panel cover and tighten all four screws securely. 7. Replace the wiring/disconnect box cover (see instructions on page 4–3).

Suzzanne, Welcome to the FMCA Forum! There are circuit breakers on the output of the many of the inverters and if you could post the Make and model of your inverter, that would help getting a better picture of your set up. Now! when you reconnect to shore power and with the engine running do you have power down the left side of the Coach? If not then there is good chance that one of the circuit breakers has tripped. Also! Many of the inverters have a 1-15 amp and 1- 20 amp circuit breaker. So that could be an issue, depending on what breaker the refrigerator is connected to. Sounds like a nice solar power system, 460 watts of power should keep things running well even on cloudy days. Rich.

I have not tried this - but from your post information, I wounder if you could use a base plate form an old Flexsteel base, under the seat. One might be able to adapt the front to back plate so the seat would move left to right enabling to set to move away from the "B" pillar. The other tight spot could be clearing the Engine cover or doghouse. Seat might need to move left to right and front to back to clear the pillar and the steering wheel. The devil is definitely in the details when it comes to clearance requirements and range of motion. Sounds like a project to assemble and test on a bench and shop floor before moving it to the drivers location for a post install test. Rich. Might be able to adapt one of the old style power seat bases, but then its all about clearance and room !!

Recently needed to find a hotshot control/thermostat for an Atwood water heater and the OEM part is no longer available. The part number was 91853. This is the replacement I found: Vangard #15A524 or Robert Shaw # 5600311. In some regards they are better specification wise. The OEM part was set up for just 120 volts AC and the replacement is a direct footprint match that is used on residential electric water heaters is set up for 220 volts. This allows it to be used with the 2 heating elements found in residential style water heaters. RV water heaters are not set up with 2 heating elements that are required for fast recovery. When using this unit one only uses one side on the control to maintain the preset temperature(between 125 and 130degs). Tested the unit over a 2 week period and it maintained a water temperature of 132degs. when drawing a limited amount of water, the temp will drop as hot water is used. So if one is taking a shower or washing dishes the LP portion of the system will need to be enabled to maintain the required recovery rate. Not all water heaters us the same system control boards. There are models that use modules that control both the Electric and LP for the water heaters. As always, if you are not up to speed when working with electrical wiring; get help !!!! Rich.

msgtnobody, Comparing a single 12 volt to 2 - 6 volt batteries, the main issue is that most 6 volt batteries used are deep cycle. One can purchase 12 volt deep cycle batteries, but because of the difference in plate size, do not last well when repeatedly discharged. In the overall picture one does not really save that much. Your 12 volt source powers the furnace, refrigerator, much of the lighting, entry steps,the entertainment equipment and in many cases are used as a source of auxiliary power to start the coach and the generators. Even if one does not plan or intend to be dry camping, the campground shore power can be interrupted and you find yourself dry camping and it is always good to be able to keep the phones charged in today's world. Rich.

Mark, Looks like it will work - with the current rating listed. Good Luck If you use the Atwood installation link if you need the manual - you should be able to install the board. You will need to remember that this circuit will not give you a warning if you forget and leave them down - I mention that only because there is no information on any safety interlocks listed on there sight regarding the board. I took a look at there sight and it looks like they make a number of items that might come in handy.. Thanks for sharing your find! Rich

Lyle, could you post the model number of your water heater for the group? If they made them all the same it would make thing to simple ! LOL Rich.

DD, When did Schneider merge with Xantrex ? Rich.

ObedB, The information on what batteries your Freedom unit will charge would be covered in the owners manual and if you do not have the Owners manual, you should be able to fine one on line. Xantrex control / monitor panels will interchange on a number of units, some of them offer more information in the form of digital meters rather then led bar scales, indicating only relative levels. The other item that you can find information on is if the unit puts out a Modified or a Pure Sine wave signal. The pure sine wave units are much better when powering equipment that is controlled using digital control boards. Rich.

Markstella, Good information! This is a link to a Data File that matches your relay> Does it look like the one pictured? http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/283/en2-296596.pdf The key here is that this relay does not have the current carrying capacity needed to power the jacks, but it could well be the main control relay to switch other high current relays. The specifications mention it used to reverse circuits. I just found this information and I do need to study the information more, but I need to know if indeed it looks like yours. Do you know if the motors and the jacks all work? One could have someone test them to see if they all will extend and contract. This is one key step in solving you jack issue(s)! Rich> Note the information mentions it has been discontinued. Makes finding a part that might be used and the person to modify the OEM board could also be challenging. Just had a thought ! In one of the FMC magazines there was an article with information on building a relay circuit to replace a slide controller. This circuit would supply a higher current and one might be able to adapt it. Keep positive thoughts!!!

This link might work for Newmar electrical parts! https://comnet2.newmarcorp.com/instance1/servlet/WebDispatcher?parent99=CATALOG+RETAIL&parent=CATRET.E1&mode=body&pos=42 This link should get owners into there general catalog. https://comnet2.newmarcorp.com/instance1/servlet/WebDispatcher?mode=body&parent=CATALOG%20RETAIL Rich.

jleamont, posted, I believe we have the same generator and your is only one year newer, you can tell if the fan is spinning by running the unit and slide under the coach slowly, you should feel air rushing downward or pulling upward, the fan is located toward the front of the generator. Yes the blower is at the front and is directly driven from the Generator portion, but the belt driven Cooling pump / water pump is at the very back of the unit; right above the DC 12 volt connections. So the fan can be turning, but the water pump might not be ! One could take a look at this link to see the generator layout with the covers removed. http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/MO/mobiletech/2013-01-12_182701_20130112_132245.jpg Rich.

Michael, As mentioned above how may hrs. between fuel filter change? What are the total hrs on the hr meter? The voltage level is No Load 117 and under load 116. How long did you run the unit in the no load condition? There is a belt that drives the cooling pump - the belt could have failed or needs to be replaced due to ware and it is now slipping. I do not know if your generator is mounted on a slid out, but if it is not; the only way to change or get to the belt is to remove the generator and the generator drops down out of the bottom of the coach. Rich.

Markstella, Could you post some numbers off the relay in question or better yet a picture of the relay with any numbers the grope could read off it ? just maybe I or another member will recognize it or see if we can cross reference it. Rich.

Thread readers should be aware that the Super Lub information posted by Brett is the Multi- Purpose Synthetic Lubricant. the part number I have is 31110. They also supply a Silicon spray, so make sure you request the proper item! Rich.

Markstella, Do you have the Manual for your system? This link might help: http://www.atwoodmobile.com/manuals/chassis/MPD%2066166%20SP%2011.21.07.pdf See you are located in NY State, by chance is the a BOCES or trade school in your area that teaches electronic repair? School is out for the year and is there an instructor that might want to pick up some money on the side that would be willing to check the board for defective or bad components, if that skill set is not in your bucket! Rich.