dickandlois

Sheeterangle, Welcome to the FMCA Forum! Could you post the make and model of you inverter / charger for the group? And any information on the monitor and control panel for the inverter / charger. The charge and inverter circuits are often controlled by this unit. Many of the models have 2 - 110volt circuit breakers that power circuits in the coach. So if you find a circuit breaker in the main AC power panel - it most likely will turn off the unit, but also power off the 2 circuits mentioned. Rich.

petek, Welcome to the FMCA Forum! Your chassis could be equipped with hydraulic over hydraulic as mentioned by Brett. Some chassis did have the electric assist. The Vacuum pump you found is used to supply vacuum to the Heater / AC and defrost system to switch the air flow to the area or outlets you want it. The default position, should the vacuum system fail - is the defrost position. This is a link to a Manual for a 1989 John Deere chassis. This manual is a very large PDF File about 950 pages. So it will take some time to download ! http://www.cdr-roc.com/89JD/89-JD-Chassis-manual.pdf This is a link to a owners manual from Airstream on a Oshkosh Chassis that might prove help full. This manual is 172 pages long. http://www.airstream.com/wp-content/uploads/archive/f645b72106e6e2a8.pdf Rich.

pollonbeeche, You mentioned that you changed out 2 batteries 5 years ago and are considering replacing them with 4 new batteries. 1- Do you have a total of 2 batteries currently and are increasing the total number to 4? or you just replace 2 of the total batteries 5 years ago? Regarding the batteries the only difference is the Amp Hr. rating with the same footprint - if you are going from 2 up to 4 batteries you will need to parallel the two sets by adding a positive jumper, an intermediate cable on the second set and a negative jumper cable to connect the sets together. 2- Do you check your water levels regularly and have you run a hydrometer reading on the current battery cells? You could also have them load tested. This would give you a good indication of the battery condition. Rich.

Bill, do you know who made your speedometer? Like an M line 700 or something else.The code probably came up on the information bar. Is everything else working ? Rich.

texaswrrr, Welcome to the Forum! You did not mention that you had a check engine light. So I'm thinking you may have a Cam sensor issue-if you 8.1 starts and runs rough. Then if you turn off the engine, restart and it runs smooth. You most likely have a cam sensor issue. You did not mention the engine acting like you turned off the key and back on while driving or a bucking sensation, that could indicate a distributor sensor issue. You might want to have you mechanic run engine diagnostic to see if there are any codes present and check the engine timing information or if there is a failing ignition coil. The 8.1L has a coil for each plug that you would have noticed when installing the new plug wires. The third item that you might look into is the throttle body and the mass air flow sensor, what is the condition of the air cleaner? I'm leaning towards fuel air mixture issue or timing problems. With only 44,000 miles it should not be related to timing chain and gears, but stranger things have happened. Rich.

wfstewa, Brett brought up some good points. You mentioned 4 coach batteries in your original post so, I was thinking they where 6 volt units. I do not know if you have the manual for your remote control panel, but the charger / inverter system is software controlled. This is a link to the Owners Manual for the remote, if you need it. http://www.xantrex.com/documents/Inverter-Chargers/RV-Series-GS/RC7_RC-GS_Owners_Manual%28975-0210-01-01_Rev-A%29.pdf This link is for the same remote-just in case you have a Tracer Engineering setup. http://www.xantrex.com/documents/Discontinued-Products/822-4RC7-RC7GSRevNew.pdf Rich.

wfstewa, The 4 batteries are connected in a series / parallel configuration. 2 - 6 volt batteries in series for 12 volts, the second set of 6 volt batteries is then connected in parallel with the other set. Connect you charger to the common 12 volt and common ground point of the batteries. The points where you read 12+ volts across the set of 4 batteries.(Hope this answers your question) Remember,! AGM batteries have a float charger limit of 13.5 to 13.8 Volts - Do Not exceed this level. Remember to purchase a charger designed to charge AGM batteries. Flooded batteries have a float charge of 14.4 to 14.8 volts and this level will damage AGM batteries. This link to information on charging the different stile batteries might be help full- Page 4 offers a chart covering charging requirements. http://www.victronenergy.com/upload/documents/Datasheet-GEL-and-AGM-Batteries-EN.pdf Rich.

I notice a buzz with the key on. Appears it is the Daytime Running LIghts relay? Could this be related? Seem that I came across a thread that mentioned this as a possible short? Possible ground? Any thoughts here? When I turn the lights on, it goes away? LN, The buzzing relay - could very well be due to a poor ground - it is interesting that the buzz goes away when the lights are turned on! My first thought - regarding the relay you mentioned, is it could be the accessory circuit relay? That could be the source of the poor or low voltage you are experiencing at the ACT! You might look closely at the relay and see if it matches any of the others used on the coach and switch 2 of them around. If the buzzing stops - See if your voltage reading at the ACT reads 12 volts or better! Should you get a better reading then the relay might be the culprit! However, if the relay still buzzes - then try to find the ground connection side of the relay and trace it back to it's ground point, also check all the connectors are tight and clean. Tracing the ground back through all the wire bundles is a pain for sure, but it might be time well spent. Any feedback from you would be helpful. Rich.

LAN, I have been reading and rereading your post and I wonder if by chance you have a connection or connections with a high resistance-- if everything else is working normally. On a coach that is around 12 years old, there could be a bad ground connection - the first item(s) I would check are the connections to the frame. Sounds like you have recently replaced the batteries and serviced the battery connections) then look at all the ground straps often running between the frame and engine, the ground straps often used to create the multiple common ground points for all the circuits. Also, you mention the voltage drop - have you had the current load checked on the batteries as you start getting set up to up date the system, just how much of a load do you have? Do you have the coach plugged into shore power with the charger running when going through the setup to update the SCT? Appears to me that you have a voltage drop caused more from resistance then load all things being equal ! Rich. While reading one of the SCT manuals - this information was interesting: Can I tune more than one vehicle with this programmer? - One vehicle tuned at a time. You may return to stock and tune another vehicle up to 5 times. My question - does one need to purchase more re-tune time? or pay to have files cleaned and reset in the system?

Dennis, As mentioned by Herman there are step covers that are Air activated and There are coaches with mechanically operated covers that use a motor to turn a threaded rod. Try this link. (Post #8) and take a look at the attached file ! http://community.fmca.com/topic/5088-power-step-cover-in-2006-monaco-diplomat/?hl=%2Bstep+%2Bcover Rich.

Martin, A couple of links that should help: https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQOBAby3nO18AF6sNKB6NuItUbiu0n5EJcs8Aq7PzKJN1ICpGXZ https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTvq8VGfid_E83fCsE9u_-A8cpn-RqkbiNcAcEMUAa6xTPA-9qB Rich.

Digging into the Throttle / Treadle control I did find this much information regarding the control for Cummins engine before 1994> With a OEM part number you might find something, From the part numbers for Cummins after 1994 might work, or from the other information listed in my other post. These parts where supplied Williams or Tectran The difference between the 3 is the angle of the peddle - 5=28.5 Deg., 6=35Deg., and 7=45Deg. WM351375 D n/a TREADLE-ELECT.(WM526), CUMMINS BEFORE 1994 WM351376 D n/a TREADLE-ELECT.(WM526), CUMMINS BEFORE 1994 WM351377 D n/a TREADLE-ELECT.(WM526), CUMMINS BEFORE 1994 Part numbers for item in the 1994 model years WM350825 C 86 TREADLE-ELECT.(WM526), 28.5 DEG CUMMINS AFTER 1994 WM350826 D 86 TREADLE-ELECT.(WM526), 35 DEG CUMMINS AFTER 1994 WM350827 A 86 TREADLE-ELECT.(WM526), 45 DEG CUMMINS AFTER 1994 WM351314 B 92 ELECTRONIC CONTROL (WM526), CUMMINS,DDEC 3 W/IDLE VAL/SWTC(This control is made for Cummins engines requiring the Idle sensor switch built into the Throttle) . Rich.

peterabbe, Welcome! You got the code correct Main Code 21, Sub Code 12 - 21 - Throttle position sensor, failed low! Use full throttle default, DNA The sensor the ECM is looking for is a potentiometer, basically a pot. ECM not reading any voltage - so you might have an open 5 volt supply to the Pot, loose connector, broken part. In this case, my thought is a dirty control.That pot is part of the throttle control! You might be able to reset the throttle sensor, turn key to on position and pump pedal 4-5 time from 0 -100% then back off and then start engine NOTE: A good throttle position sensor should have resistance of: 1. 9000–15,000 Ohms across terminals A and C. 2. 500 ohms, moving to 9000–15,000 Ohms as TPS is stroked (measured across terminals A and B. Trouble Shooting 1---If the condition persists, replace the ECU. If replacing the ECU corrects the problem, reinstall the original (bad) ECU to confirm that the problem is in the ECU. If the original ECU now works, inspect the ECU connectors for any corrosion or damage which may cause an intermittent condition. If the original problem reoccurs, reinstall the replacement ECU. 2---- The only troubleshooting necessary for a PWM fault is to check for an open, short-to-ground, or short-to-battery in the signal wire from the PWM source. An open or short-to-ground will set Code 21 12. A short to battery will set Code 21 23. If you have a Good Tech. this might help ! Older dumber APS designs were simple rheostats, varying 0-5V on one signal and 5-0V on the other, so the sum had to be 5V. On the Teleflex unit: Signal 1 should vary from 11% at Idle to 42% at WOT. Signal 2 should vary from 22% at Idle to 84% at WOT. You can have a knowledgeable tech probe for these values to see if the pedal assembly is currently working. A transient might be no 5V reference signal (0V or some other voltage not 5V) on one or both of the middle pins, could be a loose connector, could be a loosely made wire-pin connection on one of the signal sides, could be a loose ground, , could be a poorly made connection on its way to the ECU, etc. So fixing it might not be a matter of swapping out the pedal sensor assembly, those other types of errors should be checked first, but before that I'd recommend the above Idle-to-WOT reading checks. Look at this link for a floor mounted unit, I think! See if you can find there catalog- It should list the parts by who's engine it is used for: Cat, Cummings and others. http://www.cw-industrialgroup.com/Products/Electronic-Throttle-Controls.aspx Think yours might match the WM-526 series. The key if you need a new one is the correct connector! Hope this helps Rich.

rjhayden67, Welcome to the FMCA Forum! You might try to contact Fleetwood with the Fin number for your coach and ask for the electrical drawing(s) that cover the wiring circuits for the Toilet. With this information you might be able to find the circuit the powers the unit. With a meter you could then find where the interruption is, causing the loose of power. I looked up some information and if I found the correct circuit board and switch repair kit-the kit cost over $1100. So it might be worth the time to see if there is a wiring problem. Could you post the series of your auto flush unit? Rich.

rjhayden67, Welcome to the FMCA Forum! You might try to contact Fleetwood with the Fin number for your coach and ask for the electrical drawing(s) that cover the wiring circuits for the Toilet. With this information you might be able to find the circuit the powers the unit. With a meter you could then find where the interruption is, causing the loose of power. I looked up some information and if I found the correct circuit board and switch repair kit-the kit cost over $1100. So it might be worth the time to see if there is a wiring problem. Could you post the series of your auto flush unit? Rich.

Have you checked the water supply for a restricted screen in the input or output of the water solenoid ? Maybe a restriction right at the point it enters the bowl. Rich.

Fishhawk, The fact that you did have an air leak in the drier and they fixed it is not all bad. Leaks tend to get worse over time. Regarding the leveling system, Intermittent problems can be very hard to find and I'm thinking that Spartan did not want to charge to just start throwing parts at the problem an hope they fix it. From one of my prior posts in this thread, I posted the wiring colors. So it looks like you can engage the air ride before or after you start the engine to fill or dump the Air Springs. Air Ride wiring- in cab-Connector Pin #1==Green wire to dump circuit-wire at valve is Light green Pin #2==Blue wire to fill circuit-wire at valve is light blue. Only the Green and blue wires at the valve connection-2 pins Pin #3==Black / Ground point inside cab. Most likely at the common dash grounding point. The system power connection(s) could be an issue and have a intermittent connection. When I mentioned placing ride in the auto / travel mode and restarting the engine, that recycles the dump valve(s) and things might air up. Should that be the case then I would look into the possibility of the valve not cycling or a bad seal, internal to the dump valve. Rich.

John, Welcome to the FMCA Forum! Welcome to the learning curve we have all been on and if we trade coaches - it starts all over again! For starters: Try this when the gauge(s) do not go above 75 psi. Make sure the air dump switch is in the auto mode, then turn off the engine and restart it. See if the guage reading goes up to it proper level ! What happens? Have you had the ride height checked for the proper height? There are 3 valves, one for each corner of the front coach and one control valve for the rear. If they are not set to the same height, then any motion inside the coach will cause the system to use more air trying to maintain the out of spec. settings and some other strange things can happen. You mentioned that the repair shop used soap looking for leaks, but some times the manual and auto dump valves leak and then reseal. Did the service center mention the condition of the air dryer elements? Rich.

liedtkekla, Welcome to the FMCA Forum! Question: do you use shore power most of the time? or run the generator frequently? Do you turn of your AC units and other loads before connection to shorepower or starting the generator? If the above questions are a yes then. The fact that you have had to replace the EMS 4 times, kind of makes me think, bad connections or wiring between the coach and shorepower cables. Possible loose or corroded connections at the transfer relay / solenoid. Bad ground connections. Do you have a multimeter to work with? Rich.

dddlin, There are a number of variables. Some batteries are just built better and quality is often related to price. Then there is the maintenance of the batteries, how often one checks the water levels in the cells and the condition of all the connections at the batteries and the charger. How often do you check or have the specific gravity of the cells tested. This test is very helpful in finding individual cells that are bad. Do you use a trickle charger to keep the batteries charger when setting for extended periods? Rich. The condition of the ground connections that are connected to the chassis, engine and alternator are key points

Joe, Could you post the model of your Atwood furnace? What year is you 39Z and do you have 2 furnaces? Rich.

jodellking, You have the wiring to disconnect and some mounting hardware holding the entire unit in place. Do you have the owners manual and / or the installation manual for your unit? Rich.

lebjdixon, Welcome to the forum! The NAPA part number comes back as a Battery Charger. I have tried different variations of the number and not found any reference to relays. So I'm going to play with the OEM number to see what comes up. OK the part is an 80 to 120 Amp rated unit from White Rogers. This is a link to a solenoid that should handle the current. The thing is they come in so many configurations. There are different size terminals and some solenoids are internally wired to isolate different wires or the unit itself from ground. http://www.supplyhouse.com/White-Rodgers-586-105111-Solenoid-SPNO-12-VDC-Isolated-Coil-Normally-Open-Continuous-Contact-Rating-200-Amps-Inrush-600-Amps-14829000-p Rich.

Medico, Thanks for your reply, was typing a reply and hit the backspace key-LOL not what one wants to do **** Anyway, I see jleamont set a reply relative to the leveling issue. The spring disk he mentioned is an item I'm fermiller with and the spring mounting and those things can bounce around an that will upset the ajustments. Would be interesting to know if the board and wiring is the same on your friends setup. If the sensor is mounted on the board and it can move around, then I'm thinking the mount would need to be stiffened up somehow. Rich.

dmbamwarth, Welcome to the FMCA Forum! I just found your post regarding the refrigerator issue. Thanks for taking the time to post the information. Rich.