ClayL

I used those also and they worked great. They come with a rubber stabilizer that fits into the hand hole and provides plenty of support for the weight of the sensors.

Definitely keep the black tank valve closed and let it get close to full before you dump. Otherwise you will get the dreaded poop pyramid.

Who did you talk to at Winnebago? They do make the doors, I have seen them making them. They use the material cut out from the wall as the door and add trim etc. I would call Lichtsinn Motors , give them your Winnebago ID number (should be on a plaque by the drivers door) or your VIN which they can cross to your ID number. They are a few miles from the factory and do a great job of supplying parts.

A lot of them are made by Trimark and according to a local locksmith the cylinders/locks are not available except from Trimark and perhaps their distributors. If the following is what your's looks like, it is a Trimark: TRIMARK When I needed a key I had to buy it from Trimark because the blanks were not available form the local locksmiths I checked with.

RV antifreeze in the fresh water tank can cause that. It really isn't harmful but I didn't like it when it happened to me with my first motor home. After that I added a bypass/pump system and did not put any antifreeze in the tank. RV antifreeze is polyethylene glycol which is a food additive - in small amounts - and a laxative - Mirilax and others - in larger amounts. I had to fill and flush the tank several times to eliminate it.

I checked with a number of tire shops and except for one, none had any way to torque the lug nuts properly. One had a 500 ft pound torque wrench in a very dusty box on a shelf about 8 feet off the floor. They had it but didn't use it. I bought a 3 to 1 torque multiplier and a 250 ft pound torque wrench. 158 input put 475 on the lug nuts. I thought it would be cheaper than a SnapOn 500 ft pound torque wrench ($350 back when I checked) but by the time I bought a 33 mm 1 inch drive socket ($35) and a ten inch long 1 inch extension ($75) and a 1/2 to 3/4 inch adapter (for the input) plus an 14 inch steel tube to go from the torque multiplier reaction bar to the ground plus the cost of the multiplier and the torque wrench, I think the torque wrench cost would have been less expensive than the multiplier set up. I used it once when I bought new tires or rather the tire shop used it. Sold the motor home and still have the multiplier set up. Guess I ought to put it on Craig's list.

If by coach batteries you are taking about the house batteries rather than the engine batteries, then yes they are charged by the alternator while the engine is running, There is a solenoid that is activated in two ways. 1) By a wire connected to the RUN terminal on the ignition switch. 2) By the momentary rocker switch on the dash that connects the engine battery to the house batteries. It is used to start the engine when the engine battery is discharged. There is another solenoid that is used to disconnect the house batteries from the house dc system. It is activated by a momentary center off rocker switch usually located in the step well. Both solenoids are usually located close to each other. Often in a compartment behind a panel on one of the steps. Sometimes in a box on the left sidewall above the propane tank . As an aside, I think in 2005 Winnebago started installing a Trickle Start charger that charges the engine battery by the converter/shore power. This keeps the engine battery from discharging when you are connected to shore power so the engine battery won't be discharged by parasitic/keep alive drains. See https://www.bing.com/search?q=trickle+start+battery+charger&qs=AS&pq=trickle+start&sk=AS2SC3&sc=8-13&sp=6&cvid=2C3934AD94BB4BB7933F422A6A541FE1&FORM=CHRDEF I used a BatteryMinder Plus float charger on my coach instead. See http://www.batteryminders.com/12-volt-maintenance-charger-desfulator-1500 Here is the Winnebago diagram showing the two solenoids, i

I used flexible plastic cutting boards under the tires. Won't keep the tires from sinking but will protect them. The jack pads should keep the tires from sinking much. The flexible cutting boards are light and easy to store.

There will be a resistance wire coil for each speed except high which is direct. Location of the resistor package depends on chassis brand but is often in the heater/AC air plenum. The moving air is used to cool the resistor.

The guts of all of the counter top ice makers appear to be made by the same factory in China with cosmetic differences as requested by the companies they private label them for. So I would buy on price and any features - if there are any - that you like. Be aware that they do not keep the ice frozen. As it melts it makes another batch. We kept a bin in our RV freezer full of the ice so the ice was a lot colder than freezing as it is when it comes out of the ice maker. The ice lasts longer in a drink that way.

We were full timers and replaced the carpet with Armstrong's best grade of floating laminate. One of the best things we did for the motor home. Easy to clean and always looked good. We put down a small throw rug in front of the door and a runner in front of the sink/refrigerator area. They could be washed. Heck, even in the house we bought and live in now, we are getting rid of the carpet and replacing it with ceramic tile and the new thinner hardwood. Carpet used to be the way to go but not anymore. Before we started full timing we had an upscale house in Bow NH and it came with tongue and groove hard maple. After we got used to that we changed our minds about carpet completely.

If you hold the "ctrl" key down and rotate the mouse wheel you can increase or decrease the font depending on which way you rotate it. The font stays as set if you leave and come back another time. The new setting doesn't affect other sites. There are other ways to do it but this is fast and easy for me to remember.

Things have changed. Kwikee and Power Gear were both bought by a holding company that folded Kwikee into Power Gear. It appears that Power Gear/Kwikee have now been acquired by Lippert. See HERE

I had the same problem. The lock had not been put on securely and fell off. The pin had worked it's way partially out. At that point I replaced the locking pins with old fashioned pins and fold over locking rings. You are absolutely right about the need for a walk around any chance you get.

We didn't boondock but friends did, and I understand there are several places to get water including the two gas stations (Pilot - Loves) on the west side of town off I 10. The RV Pit Stop on the north side of town at 425 N Central Blvd, (RT 95) has a dump station plus water and propane. Out on the BLM land there are people that come around and pump out the sewer (for a fee) and others that sell fresh water. There are some dump stations and water at the long term BLM sites also. We spent all or part of 9 winters in the area but we stayed in Bouse - about 35 miles from Q - in the Coyote Ridge RV park. $165 per month full hook up with metered electricity an extra charge. Out of the hustle and bustle but close enough to Q to go there for lunch, dinner or whatever.

I found that by removing the hair with a ZipIt on a regular basis I only had to get rid of the soap scum once a year or so. I did that by using Draino and let it sit in the drain for an hour or so then poured hot water down the drain. I dumped the gray tank when I finished. Worked fine for 12 years with no damage to the system.

We used to stay there a couple of times a year but after the last two times (about 4 years ago) never again. The view is beautiful but the clerks were rude and unhelpful the last few times we stayed there. The sites have not been maintained and many are so unlevel that our levelers could not get the coach level and a lot of leggo type blocks were needed. For what we were paying - about $40 per night as I recall - I wanted a level site. Also with an artificial hip, bad back and knee that needed replacing I really wasn't up to placing blocks. I went back to the office and VERY politely asked for another site. The clerk was rude but finally gave me another site. It was worse than the first and so short that I would have had to unhook the toad. I drove around and spotted an open site that I could get level on - there were a lot of open sites by the way. I went back to the clerk and again VERY politely asked if I could move to that site since the 2nd one was not working for us. This time she was even ruder and gave me a lecture about how this was the last time that I could move and she couldn't keep changing my site. I refrained from telling her that if she had given me a level site the 2nd time there would not have been a 3rd move. I don't know if the clerks are still that bad or if the sites have been worked on but I won't be going back to find out.

The last time I checked Class C rentals ran over $1000 per week. There may have been other charges for mileage, insurance and so forth.

If you had odor from the air admittance valve under the sink the flapper probably wasn't resealing after a dump. Mine used to do that from time to time. They are usually replaced fairly easily and are available at a lot of hardware stores. Yes they are common in RVs and apparently other types of construction also since they are stocked in a lot places not associated with RVs.

For a two or three years we spent summers in a campground in NH, close to two of our kids. In that area a lot of people have TTers that are in the campground year round. Then in the summer when the campground is open (May 1 to Oct 15) they came up on weekends. We spent a lot of time with a number of them. There would be as many as 20 people around the campfire in the evening. Then we volunteered as camp hosts in Idaho for 3 summers. We often got together with the other hosts (there were about ten other couples - there were 12 camping units in that state park) . There were potlucks fairly often. After that we usually spent time in the northern tier of states in the west, If we were in an RV park for a month or so we found it easy to make friends. We also used summers to visit family and friends all over the country.

A lot of RVers use FL. We chose SD because it was more convenient for us and at the time (13 years ago) there was some sort of yearly tax that was repealed right after that. I am not sure about how FL handles jury duty but TX gives you a waiver if you use Escapees -Livingston as an address and SD takes you off the rolls. I don't think MT does that or is as friendly to full timers in other ways.

The service - Dakota Post - Tom mentioned (Used to be Alternative Resources) has a lot of info on the advantages of being a SD resident on the web site he posted. We used them for eleven years and they did a good job for us.

It may be polyethylene which is almost impossible to glue. It can be done but requires some nasty solvent and surface preparation as I recall. Usually repairs are made by a plastic welding technique using polyethylene rod. The welding set up can be bought pretty cheaply at Harbor Freight. EDIT: It appears that there are some ways to glue polyethylene now that didn't exist 50 years ago. Take a look at HERE One site I looked at said the surface had to be prepared for the epoxy adhesive as follows. "Directions for bonding polyethylene using flame treating: 1. Fit a propane torch with flame spreader. 2. Following the operating cautions of the propane torch, ignite the flame. 3. Observe the flame in a darkened room, noting the primary (bright blue) and secondary (faint yellow) portions of the flame (see drawing). 4. Adjust the flame so that the primary flame is contained within the spreader, and the secondary flame is 1-1/2" beyond the spreader (see drawing). 5. Treat the polyethylene to be bonded with the tip of the secondary flame by passing it over the polyethylene in 5 gentle strokes. Total exposure to the flame should be 2-3 seconds (.5 second per stroke.) This light exposure should not deform or melt the polyethylene in any way. 6. Test the polyethylene for bond readiness by wetting it with water. If the water runs off immediately, the treatment was not effective. If the water sheets on the surface, the surface is ready for bonding. If unsure, compare the water's action on the treated area with the untreated area. 7. Bond joints per the above directions within 1 hour after flame treating. Always prepare test bonds to be certain that flame treating is effective with your material.

My wife's doctor wrote several prescriptions that were post dated and gave them to the pharmacy. The pharmacist filled one each month and mailed it to us.

That is a very expensive unit - appears to be about $8000 - and is an inverter type. 8 KW inverters are not cheap so I would expect replacement of the inverter section to be costly. I would compare the cost to repair to the cost for a new one to decide what to do. You download/view the manual HERE It shows the fault codes and explains how to read them, There are several for inverter faults.