five

I can't speak for anybody else, but in a turn, I use the "Tag Dump" switch that removes the weight from the tag. So the pivot point will be the dually wheels with the tag wheels dragging.

Sorry for the confusion....I don't have two inverters, I have 8 each 6 volt AGMs and one PSW inv/charger. Most Amer Coaches, have two separate sets of 4 each 6 volt AGMs each with a PSW inv/charger. Brett.....the ACs are wired with #1 on L1 and #2 and #3 on L2.

The answer to any wheelbase questions depends upon who you ask. American Coach measures from the front axle to half way between the dually wheel axle and the tag axle. Freightliner says the wheelbase IS (no doubt in their mind) between the front axle and the dually axle. From reading the earlier posts so far it appears Spartan and Entegra both also have different interpretations of "wheel base." To make an apples to apples comparison, you'll have to find out which measurement that particular model uses. A steerable tag advertises a considerable decease in turning radius. I find that hard to believe. At a GW of 49k, I think my two tag wheels are going to go where the two sets of duallies wheels take them...especially with the weight taken off of them in the turn by the "Tag Dump" switch. As for turning radius, my coach has a 60 degree "steering angle."

Carl, I'd love to get 45 amps out of L1 that goes through the inverter. On this recent trip, we tripped the inverter circuit breaker twice on the same day until we got in the habit of monitoring the amps on L1 on the Power Control System Monitor before turning on anything else on that line....toaster, coffee pot, Lasko heater, etc. Rich, the electrical system consists of: - 8 each 6 volt AGM batteries. - One pure sine wave inverter/charger (2,800 watts)....the normal AC set up is like Carl's...two separate sets of 4 each 6 Volt AGMs each with a PSW inv/charger. - A Magnum Energy Remote Control, 2812. - Power Control System, Central Monitor Pane. - Solar power charge panel, 95 watts.

Same here. If it breaks, you're going to have to fix it (or quit going) regardless of the ''budget." I see no point in a budget.

For nearly a month we have been out and about in our MH. As all know, it’s been rather brisk to say the least. We saw temps in the teens and traveled in the low 20s. When “camped,” and I use that term loosely, in these temps, in an all electric coach, we needed all the “amps” available. We all know that 50 amps really means two 50 amp lines. However, American Coach (don’t know about other manufacturers) wires their coaches so all electric appliances on Line 1 go through the inverter, all those on Line 2 do not. As a result of that wiring, Line 1 can handle only 30 amps, even if the inverter is not on. Any attempt to add more than 30 amps to Line 1 will result in the inverter circuit breaker tripping. So, I don’t really have two 50 amp lines, in actuality, I have a 30 amp line and a 50 amp line. What can I do in the way of changing the system, either rewiring or added a circuit breaker, to give me back the 20 amps I’m losing to the manner in which the coach is wired?

Are you positive it's the Allison? I had a mystery leak in a previous coach, it turned out to be the Aqua Hot. There are two lines with coolant going to every vent in the coach.

Camping without a toad depends on what type "camping" you do and how long you stay in one place. We just spent nearly four weeks in one spot at one campground. It's either have a toad, or break camp everyday to go out and about to sight see, eat, do tourist things, etc. For us, a toad is mandatory.

Anybody who has a block heater and does not use it...in this weather....is not playing with a full deck. My Cummins ISL said to use it if 40 or lower, this DD 13 said to use if 50 or below...and I do. When we left the first week in Jan, the temp was in the high teens, the block heat was on for about five hours (I set a timer) before I started it and the coolant was 80 degrees.

It's on the inside of a U shaped frame rail.

I have a Blue Ox Patriot 2. Easy in, easy out and if I change toads (or MHs) it's an easy switch.

The awning auto retract is fine if you are in a place where there are no wind gusts. If in a gusty location with the awning out...the auto retract senses the gust and starts the retraction. However, it's already too late and your awning might already be blown over the coach or into the next county.

I assume by "keyless entry" that means you can use a fob or manually with a key...that's how mine works. Surely Beaver didn't build a coach without a key. However, I don't trust the fob, and keep a set of spare door keys in the toad and another set in a magnetized container under the MH.

Every summer, I totally empty the basement. It's amazing the stuff that is in there that: - I've totally forgotten about. - Have previously looked for and couldn't find. - Don't need. - Have several duplicate items.

Cruiser, at a recent forum, we were informed by a tire guru (NOT a Michelin guy) that if Michelins sit for a long time, they will show very thin spider type surface cracks. He stated these cracks are from the substance Michelin puts in their tires to prolong their life. I noticed this on my coach, and once driven, the cracks disappeared. Take your coach out and drive it....see if the cracks go away before purchasing new tires.

The Allegiance was an 09 made in the spring of 08. When we sold it in June 15, the DS was still good. I did try to take care of it, routinely put Protect All or something similar on it.

Agree. There have been quite a few instances where sticks and bricks electrician has caused serious problems when wiring for an RV. I'd be sure the electrician understands what how our systems are wired.

I have the same set up with batteries and inv/charger. My solar system was put in by AC, you might call Newmar, they should be able to tell you how to set it up or send you a diagram. However, as Brett noted, we are all electric and very seldom dry camp, so I don't know how much good it does.

In my coach, plug is in the last bay, street side, which is where the power cord is. The switch to active the plug is in the rear of the coach curb side.

I use silicone, or Protect All or 303 about every three months. I also have a long pole that I attach a rag to that will reach the high side slides and across the top of the slides.

All these coaches are different when it comes to what is charging what. FWIW, here's how mine work: - When plugged into shore power. Coach batteries are charged. When that charge reaches 13.3, the system lets the charge pass through the coach batteries and the chassis batteries are charged, as long as that charge rate is 13.3 or higher. - When driving. Chassis batteries are charged. When that charge reaches 13.3, the system lets the charge pass through the chassis batteries to the coach batteries and the coach batteries are charged, as long as the charge rate is 13.3 or higher. It might not make sense, but that's how it works.

So far the only thing you have gotten is "lip" service. Alvarado is good at that. If they fix everything, and fix it correctly and on time, that will be much different than my multiple experiences there.

Ameristar used to be a regular stop for us. However, the spaces are short, and if you are just passing through the temp spaces are hard in which to get level. Then on two consecutive occasions, our Visa was double billed, once for a four night stay. Nearly took an act of congress to get that fixed and haven't been back since.

Depreciation is like fuel mileage, if any body is really really concerned about it, they are probably are in the wrong hobby.

I'd have to run a lot more miles at slightly better MPG than I do to make up the difference in cost between synthetic vs 15w40 Rotella.