five

I have a freind that has the same problem. He bought a float charger at Harbor Freight and puts it on the truck batteries whenever the MH sits for a while.

I have fuses/breakers located in four different basement bays. I took a picture of each, and made a drawing of each, with every fuse labeled in the drawings.

Mine come on when I shift to "D." Call your insurance company, some will give a small discount when you have DRL.

Call GM, they should be able to help.

A MH will be a piece of cake for somebody that has lived on anything as tight as a sailboat. Looks like we need a sailors forum here...I just sold a Catalina 320.

Don't worry about axles. Get the MH (floor plan) you like, if it has a tag, fine, if it does not have a tag, fine.

Ours shifts a bit, slides forward while leveling. Power Gear said that's normal.

Do you have room to get the old refer out and the new one in without going through the windshield? Will they fit through the door?

Good advice...if it is down hill, I still crack it, but listen as the tank is being filled and slow it down when getting nearly full...then let it dribble in until if drips out.

Call Onan with your model and serial number, they should be able to help.

Another vote for the Honda CRV. Great little vehicle, plus Honda's reliability, economy and value.

I also crack the off side fuel cap to let more air in while refueling.

If you do have the R 5000, and you can get access to the back of the unit you can see where everything is plugged in. My GPS quit working, I pulled the cover off the R 5000 and could see where it had come unplugged from the back of the 5000. EVERYTHING that shows on the screen is plugged in to the back of the unit.

Many TT CGs are filled with empty RVs who's owners rent the spaces annually. So when we got there all the prime sites were full of empty RVs. We let our membership expire.

Right, fill them to the PSI you want where you are when you are going to start driving.

Mid 60s on the MS/AL Gulf Coast.

Some of the terminology here is confusing. I have "mud flaps" behind each set of dual wheels. I also have a "rock guard" that is under the hitch, goes all the way across the rear of the coach and has two cables to prevent it from swinging backward while moving. No toad damage as yet.

If you have any doubts, call Cummins with your engine serial number and ask them what A/F should be used. Like many things, A/F is very technical and there are many kinds. One of the acceptable brands for my Cummins is Peak, "Final Charge Global Extended Life." It meets Cummins 14603 standards.

Replacing a roof is major surgery, I'd sure get that second...and maybe third...opinion. Most roofs can be repaired.

Ditto.

My Spartan manual says "If the weight of one side of an axle exceeds the weight on the other side of that same axle by more than 5% of the total axle rating (GAWR), it is necessary to redistribute the load appropriately."

Do what the owner's manual says. My Cummins manual (and Honda manual) say the initial oil change that we used to do is no longer required.

Same here, except I had white...D/W said they did not match the coach...now I have black. At least they keep the sun off the tires.

That's the solution in our MH!

If you don't mind, which Cummins Mid South are you using? I used one of them earlier in the year and also had a problem where they did not listen to what I suggested they do and it cost me over $250...nothing compared to your bill, but the point is the same. Buddy