five

CRV, one of the only vehicles where the manufacturer says you can pull it four down and tells you how to do it in the manual. Plus you get Honda's reliability and economy.

The bottom line for the operation of HPs is that they work in moderate temps, not when it really gets cold. Okay in the fall, not the winter.

This is true for non turbo engines. Virtually all diesels are turbo, so they are not bothered by altitude...the turbo keeps packing in the air. The engine doesn't know if it in Key West or climbing the Rockies. One other consideration with DEF, when we were looking for newer MHs in 2010, we were informed that a new MH with DEF vs one without DEF would cost about $11,000 more.

We got the free one year KOA membership but have yet to use it. KOA is a last resort...you can stay in a motel for what some KOAs charge.

Assuming you have a diesel, the water separator will be on the bottom of the primary fuel filter.

WD 40 is good for loosening nuts, bolts, etc. However, as a lubricant, it attracks crud, road grime, dirt and everything else on the road which defeats it's purpose. I'm surprised HWH still recommends it. We have a sailboat and were advised to use dry lube for all moving parts...which makes sense for MHs.

Thanks, maybe they've changed and I need to check them out again. My previous comments were based on personal experience, not any "information" I have gotten elsewhere.

Same here.

There are two dealers in Alvarado...which has it listed?

I avoid all the national big rig stops. In my experience, most are crowded, dirty, charge more (not less) for fuel, make you go inside to turn the pump on, back inside to pay...a royal PITA. I look at The Next Exit and try to find a big rig friendly station that sells lots of full.

Sorry...didn't realize it was UNDER the slide topper. A new seal around the slide top and upper sides should solve your problem. Had that problem with a 5th wheel.

Have you tried getting on the roof and sweeping off the water prior to pulling in the slides?

Camping World et al, make lots of things that should never be used on RVs, but people keep buying them, so CW keeps making them. Typical example is supports they make to put under slides. In every RV we have had with slides, the manual said not to use supports...if there is a flat tire, the coach settles but the supports keep the slide from moving with the coach resulting in serious damage. Re screens...we had them and the refrig was not working correctly...removed the screens, now all is well. I have also added an AC powered fan in the upper left corner of the back of the refrig to help with cooling.

You lose about 3% of power for every 1,000' of altitude gained.

The weight to be concerned with is the coach's GCWR, not the GVWR. Add the loaded weights of the RV and toad, if it is below the GCWR, I see no problem.

We try to avoid the big national chains...PFJ, Loves, etc They are usually crowded, dirty and don't give that good a price. The discount they like to give brings the price down to where it should be and many others are. We try to find big rig friendly stations that pump lots of fuel.

Just making a suggestion and expressing an opinion...not a comment on your intelligence.

Why not just unplug the refer when stored? That's what we do, then plug it in the night before a trip and it's cold in the AM.

If that is the OEM oil cap, you have answered your own question. If not, get the manual or call Ford.

Your coach should have a heated basement...run the normal heat and the tanks/lines will be okay.

As noted above, compare the cost of an oil change versus the cost of serious engine problem if the warranty is voided.

Thanks...next time I go down to the MH I'll get the information.

Protect All is the only product I have found that can be used on everything...paint, fiberglass, chrome, rubber, windows, plactic, etc.

My manual says not to lift any wheels off the ground. The rear being key since that's where the brakes are.