five

If you have a "smart" charger a battery minder is not necessary.

Wow, I didn't know anybody watched ABC World News Tonight with Diane Sawyer!

What does Chrysler/manual say?

Good information, but I avoid all big rig truck stops...FJ/Pilot/Loves/TSA, etc. Generally they are more expensive, crowded, dirty and just not places.

This is a tyical problem, normally caused by the diesel foaming. Assuming my coach is not way off level, I crack the off side filler cap, and when the tank is almost full (you can hear it), I slow the flow rate way down. Usually it dribbles out the off side before the side I'm filling on. If you want to fill it all the way, it takes a while, just barely flowing in, letting the foam subside, and repeating the process.

You've gotten good advice, and I agree. When we are getting ready for a trip, I put one capful of Calgon (with a couple of gallons of water) in the black tank. Calgon is a water softner and helps when dumping the black tank. If you have an odor problem inside, you might want to put a sewer cyclone on the roof over the vent...some Wal Marts carry them. http://www.campingworld.com/search/index.cfm?Ntt=sewer+cyclone&N=0&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&Ntk=primary&Nty=1&Ntpc=1

Has anybody discovered a paint we could use that would protect the roof and not streak the sides?

I had a similar issue, a ground (under the seat) came loose when the chair was pivoted around.

After you find a vehicle that you think is towable, I'd call the manufacturer to be sure. A great many of the web sites that list towable vehicles are in the business of selling tow equipment.

Same opinion only ours is a Blue Ox...it's a Chevy vs Ford question.

The Splendide is a great machine. We prefer the combo rather than the stackable...like the storage space. The reason for the vibration is the high rpm it turns to get the water out of the laundry.

Good advice. These dealers selling pumps, tow bars, trailers, etc, are in business to sell those things, not check to see if they will work on your vehicle.

Good advice. On our AC, the screws came out easily, but they had siliconed the bottom of the refer. It was very hard to break the silicone loose so the refer would slide into the coach which is required to get to the drain line.

Wecome to the forum. You'll get more answers to your questions if you post them in the appropriate section lower in the forum...just scroll down.

Money is an important consideration. The gassers are cheaper and, normally, smaller. The diesel is much more powerful, and since it's in the rear (on most), quieter, more fuel efficient which makes a much more pleasant driving experience, and can haul a larger rig/toad. As an example the tow rating on my DP is 15,000 lbs. Figure out what you want to spend and go from there, that may help you decide which to get.

42,400 (GCWR) is a lot of weight for a 6.7L ISB.

We have a very nice KVH TracVision R5SL satellite system mounted on our roof. I was informed that it will work only with Direct TV. We do not have a Sat system at home. Fine. Called Direct TV and spent over an hour sorting through all the various channels, packages, options, programs, specials, prices, one time deals, etc. At the end of the conversation, I told her to hold all that information that I wanted to talk to the D/W about it and call her back. She said that was impossible, that I had to either buy a program (I could change my mind in 30 days for no charge) or, when I called back, start over. Rather reluctantly, I signed up and gave her my credit card number. Hung up and talked to the D/W. It was so confusing, I called back the next day and canceled the whole thing. The vast majority of CGs have cable...and that's what we are still using.

Try some non skid rug pads. We put them under the coffee pot, toaster, and other things that rid on the counter. http://www.walmart.com/search/search-ng.do?search_constraint=4044&ic=48_0&Find.x=0&Find.y=0&Find=Find&_ta=1&search_query=non-skid%20rug%20cushion&_tt=non skid

I do lots of my own maintenance, and considered installing the base plate, etc on my CRV. However, the dealer estimated it would take most of a day for two guys, so I figured it must be complex and let them do it. Recently, I thought I should check the bolts for security. After running the CRV up on some ramps and spending about a half an hour pulling stuff apart and undoing fastners, I could not even get to the bolts. Had a similar experience with the rails for a 5th wheel hitch. Thought about doing it myself, and found I could not get the right tool in the right place to do the job...took it to a shop and let them do it. Sometimes it's better to let the guys with the right tools and knowledge do the job...then smile and pay them.

Another consideration is if you pull a toad it might have a speed restricion. My CRV has a 65 MPH max speed as listed in the owner's manual. I go over that once in a while, either down hill or passing somebody, but do not do it routinely.

I haven't used them but have some RVing friends that have been using them for years and love them.

My philosophy is similar to that of Brianhopper. I read all over the various forums posts like, "I've towed my xxxx for 2,000 miles without any problems." That's fine, but how do you know you don't have any problems? How do you know the transmission's not going to fail in the future? IMHO, the only true failsafe way to get a vehicle that will not have a problem and will be backed by the manufacturer if you have a problem and have been towing it, is if it spells out in the owner's manual. The manual should state that it's okay to tow it, and list the steps you must take prior to towing to insure it will not be damaged. Like OkieDave, I got a CR-V.

$4k sounds very high to me. We had a dealer do ours for about half that, and it was fairly complex.

I've tried everything, just tried the Image Optimizer, still no luck. I give up.

This forum is not too bad, but on some forums it's a game to see how many posts you can make. The poster says nothing of value but makes posts for the sake of making posts...kind of like this one:)