five

Another vote for Magne Shade. On our previous coach I had Magne Shades on the windshield, and the drivers, passengers, a small side window and a custom shade for tall double windows on the side. I now have MS tire covers. BTW, this is the correct spelling.😄 https://magneshade.com/

I realize you did this several years ago, but in case you didn't check to see what the different tires will do to your RPM, speed, etc, here's the chart: https://tiresize.com/comparison/

I have a Blue Ox system as well....works fine, it's on it's second CRV.

I hope so, Carl....I'll keep you posted.

Couple of amps.

The sensor has it's own small wire that is on a positive post in the battery compartment. Here's what it looks like, BTS means Battery Temperature Sensor: Magnum Energy ME-BTS-25 | https://www.fisheriessupply.com/magnum-energy... "This is a must-have accessory for any Magnum Energy inverter/charger installation if you want to be assured that your batteries get 100% fully charged. The temperature sensor provides the inverter with precise battery temperature information so it can automatically adjust the ABSORB and FLOAT charge voltage set-points – making sure the batteries are not under- or over-charged based on the battery's temperature.This is particularly important in assuring the batteries get correctly charged under harsh winter and summer temperature conditions.

Agree, very little draw. I just swapped out eight 6v AGM deep cycle batteries for two 12v AGM deep cycles. This is based on the recommendation of an engineer friend who did this a five years ago....all is working well.

Thanks, one of the first things I did was tighten everything. With a bit more research and help from a third tech at Magnum, it appears our hot weather has played a part in this. The third tech said to turn on a fan or two directly on the inv/charger. Did that and it has worked fine ever since. This coach has a sensor that detects too high/low temps. Here's the fault I got on the Magnum: FET Overload - This fault message indicates the inverter/charger has shut down because the internal FET's (Field Effect Transistor's) have quickly exceeded a safe operating temperature.

Talked at length to two Magnum techs today. They aren't sure but think it has a bad FET board. I did learn you can get rid of the fault light on the Magnum by pushing and holding the inv/chg's power button for at least 15 seconds. Since this turned the fault light off, I turned everything back on, and plugged it into shore power. I'll see what it says in the AM. The tech said the FET board is around $740 and does not recommend installing it myself. He said his diagnosis in not 100% certain, and if they sent me a part it would be a $740 gamble. So, if I need an FET board I can either remove the inv/chg and send it to them, or drive the coach to the nearest repair facility. I have removed it and shipped it once before....and I'm not doing that again! One response to this question said to consider getting a new inverter/charger: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313&_nkw=MS+2812+Inverter%2Fcharger&_sacat=0

Yes, microwave.

Today I exercised the generator in the usual manner....let it run for 10 min, turned on all three air conditioners, ran it for another 50 min, shut them down, let it idle for 10 min and shut it down. While it was running, I went inside and noticed the M/W was not getting power and a box fan I run all the time was running erratically and would not respond to changing speeds with the control knob. After shutting the generator off, I plugged the coach back in....shore power is fine, we are not on the road. The M/W did not come on and was making small surging noises, I turned it off with the circuit breaker, the fan was acting the same way as before. Unplugged shore power and turned off both AC and DC master switches for the coach. Waited 20 min, turned them back on....no change and no change when I plugged in shore power. The Magnum remote is showing a red fault light and "FET Overload, DC 12.4/5 0A." with both Chg and Inv lights blinking green. Outside the inv/charger is flashing a slow green and then quick green blinks....not in any particular pattern. When the power is plugged in I hear a ''thunk" like the transfer switch...can't tell for sure. Any suggestions appreciated. Additional information. The Power Control System shows normal voltage on both Line 1 and Line 2. I verified that by checking various outlets around the coach, Line 1's voltage jumped all around...thus accounting for the various speeds of the box fan....Line 2's voltage was normal. So there appears to be some type of disconnect between Line 1's gauges and the outlets.

I changed out my cracked Michelins at five and a half years, for Continentals on the front. A longer lasting tire for less money, plus FMCA discount.

Slow cookers are great for traveling (south) in the winter. It cooks all day, makes the coach smell great....and is ready to eat when we get to our destination. That's what the inverter is for.

Thanks for the input, guys. Since I made that post I talked to one of our group who went with two 12 volt batteries. We have similar coaches and he pointed out that I have four lines running from a positive battery post to somewhere in the coach. With two 6 volts (wired in series) I would have to put all four on one positive battery post. With two 12 volts, I could put two on each positive battery post...wired in parallel. AGMs for sure. Lithiums are too expensive....they'll be great when the price gets reasonable. As Carl noted, yes, I have an auto gen start.

When in doubt, check the owner's manual. If still in doubt call Mini Cooper and see if they give you the same information the manual has in it.

It's time for new coach batteries. I currently have eight 6 volt AGMs with one inverter/charger. The coach is all electric and we never dry camp. Several in our RV group have gone from eight or four 6 volt batteries to either two 12 volt AGMs or two 6 volt AGMs. They are about split in half, between two 12s or two sixes. Any thoughts appreciated.

I change all the fluids in my cars/trucks, but not the MH....how am I going to drain, and what do I do with 42 quarts of oil? I take my MH to a mom and pop authorized Allison business that encourages me to stay in the shop with my coach so I can answer any questions they might have. They have a win win situation, I pay for them to change the oil (and lube the chassis) and they use the old oil to operate their shop furnace. However, they did raise their rates last year....from $65 to $75, half what my friendly Freightliner dealer charges.😃

Shop regular stores...no need to buy "RV" furniture.

The Michelin web site talks about a six year warranty, no mention of a 10 year warranty. They will say they should be changed at 10 years. Check the many RV forums, it is full of posts about Michelins cracking around five years....as my 295s did, the 315s were still okay, but I changed all of them.

And No Room.😃

I had an 09 Allegiance, it was under the steps. On this coach it's in the first bay, street side.

Hi Milford, PA, we used to summer at Twin Lakes...welcome to the group.

We stayed eight days at Granby during and after the American Coach rally in June. Yes, the wind blows hard virtually every afternoon....sometimes out of the east, sometimes out of the west. No wind sensor can react fast enough to bring in an awning before it is ruined.

I would not buy a new Michelin, much less a used one.

The economy selection delays down shifting, keeping it a higher gear longer for a bit more economy. It works best in rolling country....in economy it will stay in 6th gear, if not in economy, as soon as it senses a hill or slight loss of speed, it will down shift not to lose any speed or gain back the speed lost.