five

There are all sorts of problems getting out of a coach that has rolled. Some new coaches are putting emergency escape doors on the rear street side wall. That's fine unless you roll over and if the curb side of the MH is on the ground, that emergency door is now 8 feet over your head. Some how you have to get it open and climb up to it.

Here is a useful link for comparing tire sizes....just plug in the numbers: https://tiresize.com/comparison/

Agree with Carl....if the OP has a 450 Cummins he has an Allison 3000 (450 is the max HP for the 3000). According to Allison, if the trans oil continues to test good it is good for life. I have mine tested every year by JG Labs.

I replaced cracked Michelins with Toyos in July 2019, no issues to date....and lots cheaper.

Ditto, and don't believe the Buick salesman when he tells you it's okay.

Don't know what you are asking. My guess is this year will be like all the rest, the state is going to get their cut.

The OP is looking for a solution to a problem with his refer. Replacing it is certainly an option.

Good luck doing that on some spots at Buckhorn. We have some friends that bought there a few months ago....no room for any kind of carport for a DP.

I have a lot simpler one step method to handle all macerator problems: - Remove all screws/bolts and anything else holding it in place and put the macerator in the storage building.

Buckhorn is one of our favorite CGs. The main problem with their casitas is that none have garages or even car ports. I would not want my coach to sit out in the Texas sun day after day, when not being used.

I had no problem with getting the FMCA price with Continentals. Must be the dealer.....I used Southern Tire Mart. https://www.stmtires.com/

Have you talked to Magnum, they are very helpful? My coach goes through spells where the Magnum will give my an "AC OVERLOAD" fault. A few years ago this happened off and on for a couple of months. After quite a few calls to Magnum, they said to send it to them and they'd check it out. BTW, there are lots and lots of lines going into that thing, I took photos and double tagged every one, then I took it to UPS retail store to ship...they are heavy. They called in a week saying they had been running it all week and it was fine, no problems. They shipped it back (in an OEM made for Magnum box, which they told me to save) and I reinstalled it. It still does the same thing once in a while. I turn the charger off, do my next project, turn the charger back on and all is well. So I still don't know what the problem is, but it does not seem to bother how it works.

On my study, I found that virtually every RV tire I have had was cheaper and "did better" than Michelin.

I rest my case, Your Honor!🙃

One thing this thread has shown is that there are lots of guys out there with many years RVing....and don't know how to properly determine how much air to put in the tires.😄

It's unfortunate, but many have handicapped plates that have nothing to do with mobility (or anything associated with being mobile), but qualify for being ''handicapped." I'm qualified for them, but it has nothing to do with mobility, so I don't get them. The states need to differentiate the criteria for that plate.

Like a few others here, I did some 'extreme camping' back in my youth in SE Asia....and I don't care to do any more. Now, when one of my less knowledgeable about RV friends, asks, "when are you going camping again?" I tell them as soon as I wash the tent and clean the Coleman stove!

Plug the tire numbers for the OEM and replacement tires in this formula. It will give you the change in size, as well as RPM, revs per mile, speedometer difference, etc: https://tiresize.com/comparison/

If you are a member, call Good Sam. They will shop around for you and find the best deal. They have done that twice for me. Unfortunately, RV insurance companies love to charge huge annual rate increases, so we must shop around more so than with other insurance activities.

I had a 70 gallon Transfer Flow tank replace my OEM tank on an 07 Duramax dually. All the inside gauges worked normally. It gave me enough fuel to run two normal days without stopping for fuel...and did not lose any bed space. The best of both worlds.

Some times I have to remind my kids that if they are lucky, they will live to be as old as I am. Besides, my body has lots of miles on it, in a lot of hazardous places, and all the roads weren't paved!

The only way to be 100% sure as to whether or not a vehicle is towable four down is to look at the owner's manual. If it is towable, the directions will be spelled out in the manual.

I have weighed my coach, but only axles, unable to get corner weight. I take the total axle weight, divide by two and select the next weight up from the weight listed in the chart for half the axle. I use that weight plus 10 PSI as a fudge factor for side to side imbalance.

IMHO, most manufacturers making 40 + foot MHs will have engines that will pull what ever we wish to tow. Under 40 or so, some manufacturers will slip in the small 6.7L ISB which, at times, is a bit light on power.

The number of batteries depends on the type camping you do. We have friends that went from four 6v batteries to two 12v AGMs. They do not dry camp, and have had no problems. AGMs are expensive....but you get what you pay for.