wolfe10

Bob, Assume you are talking about the engine block breaker on the main breaker panel-- if so, yes on just sends power to the switch (illuminated switch for block heater). Switch off, block heater off. Switch on, power to the OUTLET for the block heater. Sooo, start by verifying that the block heater cord (looks like an regular male end to extension cord) is plugged into the outlet.

Yes, the FMCA Forum Get Together will be on the FMCA Schedule.

Motor-aid heating is a loop from the engine cooling system that goes through a "heat exchanger" inside the coach. A fan (12 VDC) blows over it and helps heat the interior. Think of it as a 2nd dash heater. Motor-aid is/can also be used in reference to a water heater that is heated by engine coolant. A completely diffident animal. But, a good one! With this, water in your water heater is heated by engine coolant when you drive.

Too many different coach configurations to know. Motor-aid heat was a rare thing, but certainly makes sense if doing a lot of cold-weather driving. It would very likely have different vents than the propane heater or the A/C- heat pump. I have seen them as an option on Winnebagos. If you don't have the original owners manuals for your coach, you may be able to get them from Winnebago. That is your best source for how THEY built your coach.

Dianne and I will be there as well. Brett

Yes, if you have reverse cycle A/C's= heat pump, they will operate down to the same temperatures as a home heat pump. Below that you can use propane. Actually, it would be cheaper to use propane furnace while driving vs running the generator to power the heat pump(s) even if ambient temperatures are above the minimum for the heat pumps.

David, 4 6 VDC house batteries are around 440 amp-hrs @ 12 VDC. For a charger to bring them up to full charge from 8.9 VDC (i.e. totally dead) will take at least 12 hours, as charge rate tapers off as they become charged. Suggestion: Fully charge them and then go to any place that sells batteries and have them LOAD TESTED. Generally free. Again, only after verifying that they have been on a charger long enough to fully charge. This test will identify a battery that has materially lower capacity, but still shows a "surface charge" right after being charged.

David, There is no "here is the charger/converter/inverter-charger" all coaches use. How it is wired and how it works varies by piece of equipment AND how the coach builder wired it. You should have a manual on your charge device. But, 8.9 VDC is a totally dead battery. Yes, you can try to charge it (shore power overnight) and see if you can "resurrect" them or if they just need to be replaced. And, on some inverter/chargers, if they sense that low a voltage, they will not even initiate the charge cycle. If that is the case, then a portable "stupid" charger will be needed to start the process.

David, Charge up the batteries and give the "idiot gauges" another try. Or, to be more scientific, check voltage first with a digital voltmeter and let us know what it shows. Low voltage (like under 12.0 VDC) can give some very strange readings on gauges. Also, very likely the batteries that were boiled dry are shot and will need to be replaced. Exposed plates are extremely hard on batteries.

Bill, What motorhome do you have? One of the prime determinants of what kind of lift/trailer, etc that you can use is your motorhome's rear axle capacity vs actual weight. Do you know your rear axle GAWR and fully loaded weight?

Bob, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Any correlation between the smell and inside venting (i.e. anything that creates a vacuum inside). So, dash HVAC on recirculate, any roof vent open, any window open?

That is certainly a more common rating for golf cart 6 VDC batteries. So, yes total (50% of which is usable before recharging) is 452 amp-hrs @12 VDC.

Done.

Richard, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. You need to determine if the car or motorhome are the source of the smell. Towing behind a large motorhome WILL deposit tiny bits of rubber from the tires and a small amount of diesel soot on the toad's exhaust system. So, it is quite possible that the smell is "normal". Start by doing the "sniff test" on the Mini's exhaust system.

Yup, 270 amp-hrs @12 VDC. For long battery life, do now discharge below 50%. So, if batteries are in new condition and fully charged, then you can use 135 amp-hrs before recharging them.

I have had inquiries from several of you-- can we have a get together in Perry? The answer is YES-- just got this finalized with FMCA Staff! If you are one of 49,000+ registered members of the FMCA Forum come put a "face with that screen name". Mark your Convention Calendar. Look forward to seeing you there. Thursday, March 17, 5:00 p.m., in seminar 5 (Georgia Building). Feel free to bring a beverage of your choice and a snack to share. Brett Moderator FMCA Forum

Looking forward to a report on how well it works.

DBianchini, While there is some truth to the monocoque is more rigid than a frame rail coach, do take the salesman's statement with a grain of salt. There is a fairly wide range of quality/strength in frame rail coaches-- kind of like saying all unibody automobiles are the same, all Fords are the same, etc. Just isn't so.

Here is an earlier discussion here on the FMCA Forum: http://community.fmca.com/topic/4014-diamond-shield-removal/?hl=remove#entry58675

http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/600.pdf Page 12 of PDF, page 40 of document: "Ignition Electrode: Sparks to the burner to ignite the flame and SENSE THE PRESENCE OF A PROPER FLAME". Troubleshooting of propane operation begins on page 19 of 41. Page 24 shows proper gap and alignment between electrode and burner tube and electrical (ohm) test of the electrode.

Please post your Norcold model number so we can be sure we are all looking at the same thing.

What's is the thought behind the screen of filter? My guess is keep bugs out? I would agree. One mud dubber setting up house keeping would totally block water flow.

A good rule of thumb is to compress the gasket 50% or just a little more. Crush it and it WILL leak.

Please post your model number. Here are on-line manuals: http://www.thetford.com/customer-support/product-manuals/

Doctor Dee, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Yes, quite likely a "burner area tune-up" will fix it. Look in your Norcold book. Do that before spending a penny on parts. Flame too small because of rust or dirt in the burner tube, carbon build up on the thermocouple, thermocouple not properly aligned can all cause the symptom.