wolfe10

Here is the spec sheet on your chassis: http://www.fcccrv.com/wp-content/uploads/oem_pdfs/Fleetwood/XC0106-2005.pdf The OE size/load range tire should be fine assuming you are within your GAWR (Gross Axle Weight Ratings). And, before going to a taller tire, please make sure that your tach and speedometer are accurate. 2100 RPM in 6th gear should give you 74 MPH. Formula: (RPM X 60) divided by (rear axle ratio X tire revolutions per mile X transmission ratio)= MPH (2100 RPM x 60) / (4.78 rear axle ratio x 548 tire revolutions per mile x .65 transmission ratio in 6th gear) = 74 MPH

Tom, Just got this from our FMCA Technical Advisory Committee expert on absorption refrigerators. Between this post and Jim's excellent post, you should be able to narrow it down a little: Unfortunately the fault could be with the cable, it could be the display or it could be the power module or a long shot it might be the plugs. Look for corrosion, a pushed back pin that is not contacting. etc. and from there it is just a trial and error solution. I would definitely ohms test the cable as you have suggested. If the cable is OK I would try replacing the display as it is easier and cheaper and last the power module. Good Luck

Best advice is to use your truck battery to jump start the GENERATOR and let it power your inverter/charger to bring up the coach batteries. If your inverter/charger does not charge the chassis batteries, need to make some arrangement for it to do so (boost switch with CONSTANT DUTY relay, manual switch between the two, etc. Can you use solar to keep them charged? Letting batteries deeply discharge will materially shorten their lives.

If you have further issues and need diagnostic help with your Auto Park, we do have a resident expert who can assist you (free). Will be glad to PM his contact information if you need it.

Even if you up the HP, torque does not change, so no significant gain. The other issue, is if you do add HP, it will add more HEAT! Since you also mention overheating in another thread, be aware that there is no "free lunch". To get more power you must burn more fuel which produces more heat. Recommendation, enjoy the 300 HP/860 lb-ft of torque you have.

Dudley, Yes, many chassis makers extended the blow by (aka crankcase ventilation tube, aka slobber tube) to behind the intake for the radiator. A VERY common and inexpensive mod if yours doesn't have it. And, to be clear, 90% of the dirt is on the FRONT of the CAC (Charge Air Cooler), not the radiator. Cleaning from the back will NOT get the job done. Air flows from front to back, and the CAC "filters" the dirt before it gets to the radiator.

Could certainly be a contributing factor! But, as Roger said, age alone is not a "physical cause of failure". But there are clearly more physical failures with age-- sounds kind of like with humans.

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Can't imagine anyone suggesting hitting the road with 11 year old tires. Be sure to check out the FMCA Michelin Fleet Pricing Program.

Since that is a linered engine, when you check the coolant, check for: Freeze point SCA concentration (assuming this is regular low silicate for diesel coolant with added SCA, not one of the new OAT-based coolants) pH Can get proper test strips at any diesel shop (OK, any good diesel shop).

Most coaches with residential refrigerators have 6- 6 VDC batteries for around 660 amp-hrs @12 VDC. Use them down to 50% and recharge. But, batteries along are not the answer. As you have already discovered there are several ways to recharge the batteries and they can be used in combination. Another option if you don't want to run your large generator is a small quiet generator from Honda, or other quality maker that is sized to allow your inverter/charger to charge at or very close to its maximum rating. Not suggesting you don't consider an absorption refrigerator, but quite a number of coaches ARE going to residentials.

Was the dash HVAC fan running, but air just not coming out the vents? If so, you need to check for a vacuum leak between the small electric vacuum pump and the dash HVAC control. If no vacuum, all air will come out the defrost vents-- that is the "default" position.

Charles, VERY unusual for an Allison to have a mechanical issue. Any sign of contamination in the fluid? A leak in the cooler if located in the radiator can allow coolant into the transmission, which will take out any transmission. In the 97,000 miles/15 years, how many times had the transmission fluid/filters been changed? Transynd or Dexron?

David, ANSWERS IN SOLID LETTER CAPS I assume I put the refrigerator on auto somewhere on the refrigerator? or is it on the panel somewhere? YOUR ABSORPTION-TYPE (I.E. RV) REFRIGERATOR MUST HAVE 12 VDC TO OPERATE. ON MOST REFRIGERATORS, IF THE LIGHT ON THE UNIT ARE ON, YOU HAVE 12 VDC TO IT. FROM THERE, JUST READ YOUR REFRIGERATOR OWNERS MANUAL FOR SETTINGS, BUT MOST ARE PRETTY INTUITIVE. Also, I assume we can run the generator while driving down the highway (genset is the same as generator?). YES, GENERATOR= GENSET. AND THEY CAN BE RUN DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD. BUT MAKE SURE THERE IS A REASON TO RUN IT. YOUR ENGINE'S ALTERNATOR KEEPS THE BATTERIES (12 VDC) CHARGED. THE PROPANE HEATER JUST NEEDS PROPANE AND 12 VDC. Is the furnace automatically powered by the propane tank or do I have to tell it to use the propane? IF YOU HAVE A PROPANE FURNACE, ALL YOU NEED IS THE GAS VALVE ON THE PROPANE TANK OPEN. YES SOME ALSO HAVE AN ELECTRIC SOLENOID CONTROLLED BY A PROPANE DETECTOR IN THE COACH-- NO IDEA IF YOUR COACH HAS ONE. OTHER THAN PROPANE SHOULD ONLY NEED TO SET THE THERMOSTAT PROPERLY TO CHOOSE FURNACE AND SET TEMPERATURE. AGAIN, THERE ARE DIFFERENT THERMOSTATS OUT THERE, SO READ HOW YOURS WORKS.

dlussier, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Each January, FMCA publishes what vehicle manufacturers deem towable 4 wheels down. This can be accessed by any FMCA Member for more than the last decade at: http://www.fmca.com/motorhome/towing.html

Assume you have an absorption refrigerator-- if so, only time it should be set on anything but automatic is to turn it off when refueling. If you are dry camping, use your propane heater to keep from having to run the generator to power the heat pump. The propane heater runs on 12 VDC from the house battery bank. You are correct-- if the lot is reasonably level, no need for jacks if not deploying slides. And, particularly on asphalt pavement, do NOT use the jacks! BTW, there are some inexpensive alternatives to "Walmart Camping" such as: http://www.passportamerica.com/campgrounds That would allow you to hook up to potable water and electricity and sewer/dump. Make your first couple of days more enjoyable. And, if you run into questions, much more likely a neighbor can help. Only other advice is to plan on reasonably short driving days unless bad weather is closing in. You can get a lot of information on temperatures, precipitation, etc here: http://graphical.weather.gov/sectors/midatlantic.php#tabs That weather site also allows you to "forward" to see weather for the next couple of days. ENJOY your new life-- sounds like you are adventurous, so suspect you really will embrace it.

Would agree. With a diesel, a BIOCIDE such as Biobor JF and for your cold conditions an anti gel and fill the diesel tank to minimize condensation.

Is your generator gas, propane or diesel? What "winterizing" have you done on the fuel? Just my opinion, but in 18 degree F weather and light load, AND proper fuel additive, I would not run it. Additional loads would be space heaters, but you would have to be careful to not put all of them on the same "daisy chain" of outlets off the same breaker. The charger or inverter charger would be an additional load if batteries are not fully charged.

Actually, if Atwood thought an anode would be a good idea (or even neutral) they would certainly market one. Doubt they would ignore a good additional profit center! Atwood does NOT recommend an anode and in fact only sells the inexpensive nylon/plastic drain plugs. If you are considering an anode, please verify the material the threads are made of. I would question the use of steel threads into the aluminum tank threads. Speaking of sacrifice-- suspect the aluminum threads of the tank would give long before the steel threads of the replaceable anode's threads as minerals and electrolysis join them.

vaper3921, It could be nothing more than that the air pocket has diminished. Start by turning off shore water and water pump. Open the pop-off valve until it quits draining. Close and pressurize. If it leaks again replace the valve-- most box stores have them in stock. NOT RV specific.

islandboy1220, Yes, welcome to the FMCA Forum. There should be a separate 12 VDC fuse for each furnace.

David is correct. Actual scale weight is how Texas registers motorhomes. Has nothing to do with GVWR, etc. Been there, done that.

Caster set toward the high side of spec helps with tracking. Caster is positive. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caster_angle

Be sure they start by verifying RIDE HEIGHT (your getting them the specs will help). Particularly on trailing arm suspensions, ride height has a material effect on CASTER. Caster has a significant effect on tracking. And, they also need to check front end components for wear, including steering gear, tie rod ends, drag link ends and bell crank (if present). Make sure king pins are properly lubricated. Check sway bar bushings-- they are not expensive, and if play in the end links they do little to keep you from swaying, which is a steering input that you have to correct for. Also, have them check front wheel bearing end play. A loose front wheel bearing will add to wander.

Excellent. Thanks for the update.

Two separate issues here: 1. Can it be towed from a mechanical standpoint. Here is where you need info from those who tow one or from a towing source such as Remco: http://www.remcoindustries.com/Towing/Store.php 2. Does the vehicle manufacturer recognize it as towable-- often a legal liability question as often as a mechanical one. Mazda has never (to my knowledge) recommended towing their products, even when the equivalent Ford product IS deemed towable. Since you are out of warranty, this is likely a non-issue.