wolfe10

Only advantage of pulling the whole manifold is to check it for warpage. Agree, less likely with two piece/three piece manifolds than the old one piece ones. If it reoccurs, do check for warpage.

Bill, Please verify the oil capacity of your C12. I am showing it as 36 quarts. A call to the Caterpillar RV Hotline (877 777-3126) with your engine serial number will get you the correct answer.

The answer is "it depends". Many times, manufacturers will offer additional dealer and/or customer intensives at large shows. Whether the manufacturer you choose and/or the model you choose will be one of these ???? Certainly worth a try.

Two issues here: The mechanical one. The "lawyer speak" from the manufacturer. VW has not officially endorsed flat towing any of their vehicles.

Two separate issues: The actual mechanical difference. The representation/ mis-representation (a pretty gray area, as it IS common in the industry to build "this year's model coach" on a chassis manufactured last year). Personally I would address the mechanical difference issue FIRST. Look at gear ratios/final drive ratios for the two models. The V10 is a high-RPM engine, VERY different from a diesel with limited RPM range. Said another way, you do not NEED as many gears for an engine with a wider RPM range. So, verify that there is an EFFECTIVE difference to you before investing the "emotional effort" to pursue options.

Gary, In a word, NO. Now, if a motorhome is registered as a commercial vehicle-- I have no idea what specs apply.

I would caution that unless one has done a LOT of these, that a dial indicator be used to set end-play. Yes, some axle manufacturers have "work around" methods for achieving the proper tolerances. Tolerances are generally in the .001- .005" range. And, with a big, heavy hub and generally tire as well, this is not an area where guess work is your friend. I would certainly not assume that there was zero wear on the OE bearings-- quite likely they have worn in and may be out of desired tolerances.

ObedB, VERY easy answer to that one. If two manufactures made similar coaches, and one spend $2000 to upgrade the chassis and the other spend $2000 upgrading the interior WHO DO YOU THINK WOULD SELL MORE COACHES? Said another way the manufacturers ARE doing it right from a business perspective. In fact, I cover just that in the Suspension Seminar I present at the FMCA Conventions.

Rodger, Because "reasonably comfortable ride" is to a large degree subjective, there really is no "this one is acceptable, this one is not". Yes, DP's with air suspension WILL ride better than any gas coach. But there is a wide range of ride qualities within gas coaches. Clearly physics plays a part-- WB/OL (wheelbase to overall length) ratio is very important. Related is amount of coach behind the rear axle and weight behind the rear axle. Then you DO get into aftermarket devices what clearly help. But, they will not turn a gas coach into a DP. Best advice is for you to select some "less than perfect" roads and take some test drives. Virtually everything will drive OK on smooth roads with no cross wind!

Don't know there is a "one answer fits all". For the last two decades, we have the OE 50 amp shore power cord and TWO 30 amp RV cords. Have never been where the original 50 and two 30's would not reach. And, have never been in a place where they had 50 amp service that was remotely located-- just 30 or 15/20. We will continue with what we have.

Carl, Actually the parallel parking requirement in Texas is "up to the office/inspector". I can tell you for a FACT that at the Texas City office last year, parallel parking WAS required. Plenty long space-- OK for 18 wheelers. But indeed it was part of the driving test.

Had a ULine ice maker in our last coach. Worked very well.

With the late model Ford F53 chassis, IN ORDER-- go until you are happy: Correct tire pressure based on actual weight plus 5PSI or so safety reserve. Over or under inflation can result in squirrely handling. Cheap handling fix of moving sway bar end link attachment points. Rear track bar: allows for full vertical motion of coach vs axle, but limits side to side movement. Better shocks. Verify front end caster is near max spec for better tracking.

Sorry, don't know enough about the seals and their chemistry/hydraulic pump to comment. I would probably start by asking Custom Cylinder since they are familiar with the original and also their replacement seals. They may also know its affect on the hydraulic pump.

What brand of jacks-- model if you know it? Where is the leak-- hose, connection, jack large seal (leaking down the piston)?

Very likely the Teflon coating on your ice molds is flaking off. If that is the case, the only "cure" is to replace it. Many RV refrigerators use exactly the same ice maker parts as domestic refrigerators, so many are inexpensively available.

rubysdad, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Please tell us what chassis and coach you have. How many miles on it? Answers directed to a 2015 Ford chassis would be irrelevant if you have a DP or Workhorse P chassis.

Bill, Would agree on longer change intervals in dry climates. But in the east and NW, humidity suggests more frequent complete changes. Brake fluid is cheap. Master cylinders and calipers are not. And, as the brake fluid absorbs moisture (to protect the iron components of the brake system) its BOILING POINT LOWERS-- dramatically. So, a panic stop can have temperatures in the calipers exceeding the boiling point of the hydrated fluid.... no brakes. Just not worth the risk.

Dudley, Give Freightliner Gaffney a call with your VIN for troubleshooting assistance. Freightliner 800 385-4357

We usually stop on either side of it-- Deming NM to the west and Van Horn or even Ft Stockton to the east. Hopefully someone will have El Paso advice.

No, the C7 is a parent bore engine, no replaceable sleeves. But, there are companies who bore and install liners-- saw it being done by an outside firm at Mustang Caterpillar in Houston. But, before doing anything major, I would sure change the oil and filter and then verify that the engine is damaged. But, agree with you, running any engine 3 gallons low on oil CAN cause major damage!

Yes, you certainly could have disk brakes-- either floating caliper or (better) fixed/4 piston calipers. With hydraulic brakes it is important change the BRAKE FLUID every two years! And, if floating calipers, the caliper slides also need to be cleaned and lubed. Also, with the 2003 Cheetah, be sure to verify that you have the new-design rear trailing arms-- THIS IS AN IMPORTANT SAFETY ISSUE: http://community.fmca.com/topic/569-important-safety-issue-monaco-hr-safari-chassis/

Not sure it is "one is better" vs they are different and require different maintenance. Couple of variations: Air drum (Our 1993 Foretravel had this type) Air disk Hydraulic over hydraulic floating caliper disk brakes (Our 1998 Safari had this type) Hydraulic over hydraulic fixed caliper/4 piston caliper disk brakes with ABS (Our current 2003 Alpine 38FDDS has this type along with engine compression brake-- EXCELLENT). Air over hydraulic. Are you certain yours is air over hydraulic vs hydraulic over hydraulic as were earlier Safaris? You do not mention what year your Safari is--

Carl, Go to the post you want to edit and click on "edit" at the bottom. If that does not work, click on my name and then on "send me a message" at the top left. Let me know what thread it is on, original wording and what you want it to say and I will be happy to edit it for you. Has anyone else had trouble editing one of their own posts? If so, what device are you using? Brett Moderator

Ray, Get the name of an officer at the bank where you have the loan. Have buyer's bank call your banker and work it out. Done every day. Also, get exact pay-off for a couple of days after you expect closing so you will know where you stand vs loan balance (whether you have to put money with it or will get money back).