wolfe10

SO, you are talking about while in generator power, not shore power. Still could be a bad neutral in wiring from generator to ATS, ATS, wiring to main breaker box or main breaker box OR It could be an issue with the generator. No question, 150 VAC will mess up a lot of appliances. What generator do you have? Many have a failsafe that turns them off if voltage is out of spec.

Excellent, Dave. Thanks for the detailed update. It will certainly help others who run into the same issue.

An open neutral can be either on the CG/shore end or in your shore power cord, wires to ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch), wires from ATS to main breaker box or in the main breaker box. The neutral on a 50 amp male end is the center straight. The wire will be white. If this just happened at one CG, quite likely it is not your coach. But, if this is at home, you need to check the outlet: With a voltmeter (assuming you are safe working around 240 VAC): Either outer straight to either center round or center straight= 120 VAC Center round to center straight= 0 VAC Outer straight to outer straight= 240 VAC If the outlet checks out, unplug, generator off, inverter off, check the above mentioned connections. Not safe working around 240 VAC have someone who is check it out. DO NOT PLUG IN UNTIL THIS IS SOLVED OR YOU WILL BE SPENDING BIG BUCKS.

13.2 is just fine for float voltage unless it is very cold out in which case you want it a little higher.

An open neutral with 50 amp means line voltage can "wander" all over the place, from extremely low to extremely high. Either can do a LOT of damage to electrical equipment on your coach. Is this where you store it or is it at a CG. If CG, ask to move to another site. As always, a digital voltmeter is YOUR FRIEND!

dale58, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Suggest you contact the maker of your seats-- likely Flexsteel or Villa to answer that question.

What converter do you have now? Is is a "smart" charger/3-4 stage charger? Were you measuring voltage at the house battery?

This is a widely used product-- need to verify that it is compatible with your roof material: http://www.eternabond.com/RV-Leak-Repair-Products-s/22.htm

AND, bad for the generator. Bad for any engine to run at or close to no load.

Yes, starting with a full, but depressurized water heater, remove the drain plug. Immediately insert one end of the clear plastic hose into the water heater. Start a siphon, either by sucking on the other end (it is potable water) or just lowering it to the ground. Once the siphon has started, work the tank end around in the bottom of the tank. With the clear hose, it is easy to see what you are vacuuming up-- usually white chunks of minerals. If this has not been done in awhile, one tank of water may not be enough to remove all of them. If so, have someone turn on pressure water to refill the tank. Basically, you want to continue vacuuming until there is nothing but clear water coming out the hose. In many cases, were you to put the other end of the hose in a coffee cup, you would fill the coffee cup up with mineral deposits. No different than a home water heater.

Yes, starting with a full, but depressurized water heater, remove the drain plug. Immediately insert one end of the clear plastic hose into the water heater. Start a siphon, either by sucking on the other end (it is potable water) or just lowering it to the ground. Once the siphon has started, work the tank end around in the bottom of the tank. With the clear hose, it is easy to see what you are vacuuming up-- usually white chunks of minerals. If this has not been done in awhile, one tank of water may not be enough to remove all of them. If so, have someone turn on pressure water to refill the tank. Basically, you want to continue vacuuming until there is nothing but clear water coming out the hose. In many cases, were you to put the other end of the hose in a coffee cup, you would fill the coffee cup up with mineral deposits. No different than a home water heater.

If you do decide to leave the refrigerator off, PLEASE invest $11 and put a remote read thermometer in it so you know when it is getting too hot. You can set the display on the dash when driving and know what is happening. Better than HOPING not to get food poisoning. http://www.acurite.com/indoor-outdoor-thermometer-00380.html

Yup, turn off the refrigerator vs turning off the propane. The reason-- it the refrigerator PC board calls for "cooling", the igniter will spark. Not what you want around gasoline. Even if you have a diesel rig, the guy filling next to you may have a gasoline rig!

There is no finite "this long is OK and one day longer is a problem. Reality is that the fewer total days tires are exposed to adverse conditions, the longer their safe working life. When we are not on the road, the tires sit on thin plywood over concrete. Would do the same if on asphalt. If storing outdoors, covering them so they are not exposed to UV is important. I even put on my tire covers if we will be more than a few days at a CG unless we are in full shade. And per Michelin, if storing (they gave no number of days either) inflate to the max PSI on the sidewall (actually, it is the minimum PSI for the maximum load). And, yes if you can take some of the weight off the tires in storage that is another plus.

Jim, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. The only reasons to unhook for an overnight stay are: 1. You need to back into the CG site. 2. The site is WAY out of level and it would put a strain on the tow bar to level while attached. 3. Time to go out to dinner in the toad. Assume you are set up with a supplementary braking system, lights, etc.

Dennis, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. A good place to start is to have someone monitoring the ammeter while you pull the individual 12 VDC fuses one at a time. But, a more appropriate question may be what means to you have to keep them charged where you store: 120 VAC-- even 15 amp? Solar?

Agreed, the systems are designed to be used. But, as Bill said virtually nothing has zero risk. Let's just say the risk is EXTREMELY low. You probably run more risk dying of food poisoning if you turn off the refrigerator than a problem running the refrigerator or furnace or generator while driving. As with any mechanical device, this ASSUMES that you keep them in good working condition. Times you should NOT use furnace, generator, water heater, have refrigerator on: When refueling-- you want no source of spark or open flame. In tunnels and other areas where these devices are prohibited. And, yes, some tunnels prohibit vehicles with propane tanks, even if shut off.

Not sure of the question-- what are you wanting to do-- run heater, refrigerator, other? Your generator, propane furnace and refrigerator were designed to be used on the road with the exception of while fueling and tunnels.

rpate60, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. What year coach? Do you have a picture?

Ron, I would get a relay at least 50% larger (handle more amps) than the pump requires. It is the FUSE, not a relay that protects the wires. An oversized relay will just last longer. Any auto parts house will have them. Should find them under $10. There are 4 terminals on the relays and they come with wiring instructions, but here is how they work: You will use the old wire that went from the pressure switch to the pump on the relay's positive signal terminal. Negative signal terminal to any chassis ground. A new positive wire from large-gauge wire from house battery (probably already have one in the compartment with the pump, or you could even tie into the present wire on the "IN" side of the pressure switch) to positive IN on the relay. Then new wire large-gauge wire from relay to pump. When the pressure switch closes, it signals the relay to close and power goes from that large gauge wire, through the relay and directly to the pump. No heavy power running through the pressure switch with it's probably voltage drop. So a relay, some large-gauge wire (sized for small voltage drop given amp draw of pump-- let us know amp draw and how long the wire will be from positive source to relay and relay to pump) and a relay. BTW, this also works very well to brighten headlights and any other circuit that runs a lot of amps through a switch. That way the switch is not doing the "heavy lifting", it is only signaling a relay that is designed for heavy lifting to pass current to the device.

Glad you don't show signs of moisture in the crankcase. Still a good idea when the weather is nice and dry to take it out for a long drive to rid the crankcase of moisture. No problem with a low amp switch. Just means you will use a RELAY to power the pump. That is far better for both the pump and the switch anyway. Extra cost for relay and extra wiring about $12. Let us know if you need wiring instructions-- is is easy.

Steve, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Please tell us what generator you have. When was the last time its fuel filter was changed (if it is a model that has a filter)?

Ron, What air tank "blew off"? Was this an over-pressure valve? Air dryer? Other?

Assume you are on a 50 amp shore power connection? If so, DISCONNECT IMMEDIATELY. You have an open neutral!

Yes, you will need both. Here is one example: http://www.ebay.com/bhp/tone-generator-probe