wolfe10

Lyle, You must be WAY far north to already have #1 diesel at the pumps. PS makes a number of different diesel additives. Make sure you used their anti-gel is you had much #2 diesel in the tank. If you are asking for a ranking: 1. Best drive occasionally, but only if you can drive at least 25 highway miles. 2. Second best-- let it sit. 3. Worse-- start the engine and let it idle. That WILL add moisture to the crankcase.

lpigula, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. If you already have diesel in the tank (i.e. not winter grade diesel) go by a Walmart and get P/S brand diesel anti-gel. Also, a very good idea to add a BIOCIDE such as Biobor JF to prevent algae growth. Then drive it enough to completely mix and than top off the tank with diesel. This will minimize condensation in the tank. ONLY start the engine if you can drive 25 highway miles (a very good idea). It takes that long for the oil, not just coolant to get up to temperature. Running the generator once a month is a good idea-- be sure the load is at least 50% of rated capacity.

Look at the "reaction time" (which I am seeing as much longer than the quick reaction time of many of the side radiator hydraulic controls) and compare with what you see for coolant temperature change.

windsport2018, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. I would contact the factory for their recommendation: https://www.centramatic.com/contact.rhtml

You could post in Type A or if you are considering custom modifications to address it, in Modifications.

Chris, Is this a Workhorse P chassis and you are referring to the air bags that are inside the front coil springs? Workhorse W chassis? Rear supplemental air bags? Same tire pressure (based on actual weight)? How many miles--worn suspension components/ shocks? Lots of things go into determining ride quality.

Mike, Looks like the picture is of the center of the CAC. It will be clean, even if the rest is clogged-- see the picture I posted above. The most likely place for it to be clogged (and also one of the harder to get a good look at is the lower perimeter.

So it is a VARIABLE SPEED, not LOW/HIGH SPEED fan clutch? Have seem that with hydraulic side radiator, but not rear radiator configurations. If you would, please post the brand/model of the fan clutch on your coach. Inquiring minds want to know.

Beaver42, How many hours a day are you willing to drive? Interests? Kids? Said another way, what things to ya'll enjoy doing/seeing??

ruffis, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. I am confused by the mixing of discussing battery draw with 120 VAC. I assume the 20 amp draw was on your 12 VDC system. So, chassis battery or house battery? I would start to isolate that draw (which is HUGE, BTW) by asking Jayco for an electrical diagram to determine what is on that circuit. With 20 amps, my first guess would be mirror heaters if you have them. Again, the GPS is 12 VDC (I assume), so can't see any relationship between the 120 VAC ATS and the 12 VDC powered GPS. Please keep us posted on what you find.

What does voltage read at the house batteries? Are you plugged into shore power?

Actually, the GVWR placard states the correct minimum PSI for an axle loaded to its Gross Axle Weight Rating. That may or may not coincide with the maximum allowed for the tire or rim. If he is loaded to GAWR (of 1/2 of GAWR on one side) then he is OK adding a little to it as long as it does not exceed the tire or rim PSI rating. Let's hope he is just wrong, not overloaded!

You gave him good advice. For decades it has been well-publicized that the best method for determining correct tire pressure is: Load coach as it goes down the road with full fuel, people, etc. Weight each wheel position. Use the heavier wheel position on each axle to go to the tire manufacturer's inflation table to determine THE CORRECT MINIMUM PSI. Most of us add 5 PSI or so to that MINIMUM so a sudden drop in temperature (like is happening across the country right now) or a BIG Walmart shopping trip will not put you under-inflated. The only time the "other guy's" advice would be accurate is if indeed he IS loaded to GAWR on each axle. Did you ask to see his bowling ball collection or his wife's rock collection or did he just buy an overloaded coach to begin with???

What PSI is listed on the GAWR sticker which is likely near the driver's area?

NO, what is on the sidewall of the tire is the PSI needed to CARRY THE MAXIMUM design load (which will also be on the sidewall). That may or may not be the correct PSI for the tires carrying the ACTUAL LOAD ON YOUR COACH. A reasonable place to start if you do not have the actual weights is to look at your GVWR sticker which is usually by the driver's area. That will give you the recommended PSI if (OK BIG IF) both axles are loaded to their Gross Axle Weight Rating. Hopefully, your actual weight is well less than that which would mean you have a reasonable safety reserve between actual weight and weight rating.

bjohnsonav8r, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. I did a quick search here on the FMCA Forum for "Ready Brake" and found these posts: https://community.fmca.com/search/?q="Ready Brute "&updated_after=any&sortby=relevancy&search_and_or=or

As I mentioned, if one looks just in the center of the fan shroud from above (easy as that is where the fan blades are narrowest) it looks clean. Again, this is the FRONT (front of coach) side of the CAC (Charge Air Cooler). It "filters" the debris sucked up by the fan. So, cleaning from the back (back of the RADIATOR) is not very effective at removing debris from the front of the CAC. To clean this off the front of the CAC from the back of the coach, pressure washer/steam cleaner would have to have enough PSI to go through the radiator, air gap and CAC and still have enough force to knock the stuck on dirt from the front of the CAC. That PSI would likely bend the fins on the radiator! When they get this bad, it requires pulling the radiator and CAC to clean. Annual cleaning is necessary to avoid this expensive repair.

ABSOLUTELY! Get a strong flash light and access the top of the engine (bedroom or closet). Shine the flashlight past the fan blades/inside the fan shroud. Loot at the perimeter, not in the center (the fan blades sling the debris to the perimeter. Let us know what you find. In most cases the FRONT of the CAC needs to be cleaned annually. A garden hose nozzle and Simple Green EXTREME (aluminum friendly) works well. BTW, sent you an e-mail with picture of clogged CAC that owner though was clean because he was only able to see the center.

Lenp, Wow, 160 sounds cold for an ISL. Might want to confirm that with Cummins for your engine serial number.

Keigm, Many truck stops have scales to allow axle weights to be determined. A good "intermediate" step. SO, until you get any weighing done, go by the GVWR sticker in the coach (assumes each axle loaded to GAWR). Next best is to get axle weights. Add a fudge factor for left/right imbalance and go to your tire manufacturer's inflation table to determine correct minimum PSI. Then after individual wheel position weighing in Tucson, use the heavier wheel position on each axle to go to your tire manufacturer's inflation table.

Link to Liquid Spring: https://liquidspring.com/ford-f-53-suspension/

cnweeds64, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. They both reduce swaying, but in very different ways. The Sumo springs add to the effective spring rate, so less sway, but, also affect ride quality. If underloaded (actual weight under GAWR's) this could give you a stiffer ride. If close to or overloaded, it will help with ride quality as you will not bottom out as easily. Sway bars and stiffer sway bar bushings abosolutely help with sway with no change in ride quality/stiffness. So, first question is what are your actual axle weights Vs GAWR's?

Yes, it us undersized for your weight when compared with other current generation DP's. But, the 6.7 Cummins B with Allison 3000 transmission is a pretty bomb-proof drive train. Counterpoint: Dianne and I put over 150,000 miles on a 250 HP Caterpillar 3116 in our 36' Foretravel all over North America including some outrageous mountain driving in central Mexico-- no complaints. And, particularly on flat roads (Houston to Baton Rouge) engine size is not that relevant. I don' have specific specs for total wheel demand HP for 36,000 pounds, but here are the numbers for 60 MPH 30,000 GCW 126 HP 40,000 GCW 134 HP So on flat ground you are NOT stressing your drive train. I would still ask what triggers high fan speed-- it may very well be off an engine output and may be adjustable. 18 degrees delta is more than I would like to see on my coach.

OK with that info: https://cdn.fccchq.com/specsheets/2016-Newmar-Ventana.pdf 1335 cubic-in, rear-mounted radiatorRemote-mounted water to oil Belt-driven with viscous fan clutch. So, the question I would ask is what input is there that engages the viscous hub fan to HIGH? Is 18 degrees F acceptable or would I be better off with a10 degree delta between thermostat fully open and fan to high?

Contact your chassis builder for their spec on delta between thermostat fully open and cut in temperature for fans to HIGH. 18 degrees sounds high to me, but you DO want some delta. If insufficient delta, you are paying HP and MPG to run fans on high more than necessary. Also, ask them for details on the controller for fan speed-- it is possible that it is adjustable. Ideal delta IMO would be around 10 degrees F.