wolfe10

As Joe said, the screws in the ATS and 120 VAC breaker box need to be retorqued as part of an annual coach service. As they get loose, that creates resistance which creates heat which loosens the connection more.......................

Could be a loose or broken fan motor mount. Could be a squirrel cage hitting the housing. Turn off breaker to the A/C and check it out (from the roof). If you are not safe working on the roof, have a professional do it.

We will need more information to be able to help you. What is the noise-- either what component or what does it sound like? Is it still there if the fan is on, but compressor off? What brand/model is it? What is voltage? Any sign of physical damage?

Unless the temperature where the tank is located (may be in a heated basement, may not) is below freezing for more than a few hours, freezing of the water in the tank will not be an issue. Yes, full is better. BUT, what freezes first is the plumbing/small pipes where cold air can be exposed to smaller volumes of water (less BTU's to removed to cause freezing. If below freezing, either use your built in basement heater, or add a safe heating source. Even a 100 watt light bulb will often do the trick.

Most smart chargers/smart inverter-chargers will NOT try to charge a severely discharged battery, This is a safety issue. You will need to use a "stupid" charger to begin the process. Once they are charged past extremely deeply discharged, the smart charger should take over.

Correct. Algae grows at the water/diesel interface. An issue for pleasure boats and RV's because of condensation. OTR trucks rarely/never have their tanks below the dew point so little/no condensation. That is why I STRONGLY recommend two things if you store diesel fuel: Tank full to reduce condensation. If storing diesel over 2 months in summer or 3 in winter, add a biocide. A popular one is https://www.biobor.com/products/biobor-jf-diesel/ Yup, you will find it at most marine stores, very few truck stops. Makes sense.

Nan, Check to make sure that your water heater bypass valve (for winterizing) is fully closed. if not, water can bypass the water heater.

Nightcrawler, The Freightliner chassis build sheet shows a 160 amp alternator. https://cdn.fccchq.com/specsheets/5b7abfafcf1da258f28db094/2010-Tiffin-Phaeton.pdf As long as you don't start with deeply discharged batteries, that should be just fine for running the loads you describe. If you see voltage dropping below 13.0 on either battery bank while driving at highway speeds, I would suggest having the alternator checked out.

What coach/chassis? Do you know the alternator rating (in amps)? What did the house battery voltage read when the inverter turned off (from inverter remote panel or other means of determining voltage? What did the chassis battery (dash gauge) read? Any other high amp loads-- either 120 VAC from the inverter or high amp 12 VDC loads (like driving lights plus dash A/C and fan on high, etc at the same time)?

Nightcrawler, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Your alternator charges your chassis and house batteries while driving. As long as alternator output exceeds the draw on the batteries (and any charging if the batteries are discharged) you are good to go. You could drive as long as you desire as long as the above is true. If batteries are deeply discharged (like when dry camping) you may want to run the generator to bulk charge the batteries before relying on the alternator to supply all your needs.

killackeyptrcorp, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. When was the last time the brake fluid was replaced/totally flushed. New DOTIII brake fluid boils around 500 degrees F. As it absorbs moisture to protect the ferrous metal components of the brake system, the boiling point is reduced to 258 degrees F. If/when the boiling point is exceeded (in the brake calipers) that fluid turns to a GAS. That will push fluid out the master cylinder and at the same time severely reduce braking. Strongly recommend doing a complete brake fluid flush.

Here is the source information on the program: https://www.fmca.com/rv-fuel-discounts

Mike, Yes, when the coach is not in use, we either drain and dry the filter OR put it in the freezer. Either works well.

JKimmons, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. First thing is to flip the breakers on the generator off and back on. Next step, IF, repeat IF you are safe working around 120 VAC is to open the ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch) and check for power IN and OUT from generator. If you don't have 120 VAC from the generator there, then check the connections where generator output is wired to house wiring (on its way to the ATS. Yes, I am assuming you have an ATS-- what RV do you have??

golfergo, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. What chassis do you have?

Contact the shop to get coolant manufacturer and exactly which coolant it is. Even if "from tank" they should know what they bought and then sold you.

Some test strip (I am holding a Wix test strip kit in my hand) indicate quantity of SCA in pints/gallon. But, I have NO IDEA how they would work with contaminated (two different chemistries) coolant. Particularly with a linered engine, I would not take a chance on it.

Jim, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. I have seen this work: Strong ladder at angle from ground to roof (like 45 degrees). Rope around the new unit so guy on roof can assist guy on ground/climbing ladder to move the new A/C up the ladder. Not suggesting this is safe-- much of that would depend on who is doing it!

Yes, by far the best advice. Drain, flush and fill with ELC.

Joe, I would look at your invoice for the repair and see exactly what coolant they used. Contact that coolant manufacturer and ask them (FAR better than our speculation) on what to do.

Yup, 22 quarts is the correct amount for your engine. As Carl said, at your next oil change, have the engine oil dipstick CALIBRATED. The dip stick was NOT a Caterpillar part, so may or may not be accurate. Excess oil-- 6 quarts in your case will sure cause "oil consumption". In fact, Caterpillar states to not add oil until the oil level reaches the ADD mark (yes, on a properly calibrated dip stick). I don't know if the extra 6 quarts will cause the crank to dip into the oil in the sump causing aeration or not. Certainly safest is to go in through the dip stick tube and drain oil down to the proper level.

Wsd890, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Using the search feature in the upper right of this page for "Garmin 760": https://community.fmca.com/search/?q="Garmin 760"&updated_after=any&sortby=relevancy

Sorry, but from experience (General Manager of large metro automobile dealerships with 30-40 techs) that model DOES NOT WORK. Not only does it make customers unhappy, but ties up valuable real estate. How does turning expensive $$/sq ft property into a storage lot make a dealer money?? Much of the diagnostics be handled over the phone by an experienced service writer so parts are on-hand when the coach comes in. Good communication skills/ asking for digital photos of broken parts, etc can save a lot of time for both customer and dealership. Why have customers bring it in before time for scheduled diagnostics and then put it into rotation? Some repairs can be done by beginners-- others are more complex. Not suggesting they do it, but even worse would be waiting until all parts are in and giving it to a tech qualified to do the most complex repair. That would be a real waste of valuable tech manpower. Would anyone really assign their most experienced electrical trouble shooting tech spend his time doing an oil and filter change, check tire PSI, etc??? I sure hope the above "how they do it" is NOT their real business model!

phender82, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Evaluate difficulty of running propane to the refrigerator location (if your coach was offered with either an absorption or residential refrigerator, this may already be done). Determine if an outside access door opening can be cut in the side wall and access door installed (if your coach was offered with either an absorption or residential refrigerator, this is very likely). Your coach manufacturer would be an excellent source for answering the above two issues. Or, let us know exactly what coach you have and someone may have first hand information. The other major step is the same as going from absorption to residential-- evaluate what units will fit the existing space with little or now modification to the recess dimensions.