wolfe10

With the https://www.roadmasterinc.com/products/accessories/electrical/diodes.php it would be pretty hard to imagine hooking it up backwards since two IN and one OUT and well-labeled. But, sure, anything can happen.

YES. Check voltage from the IN side of the diodes to toad chassis ground. Then check the OUT side (going to the toad lights) to ground. With no RV diode-based converter you should see close to RV chassis battery voltage on the IN side of the diode, so likely in the mid to high 13's.

IMPORTANT NUMBERS: Trailer hitch rating GCWR: Compared with actual coach weight plus actual toad weight. Many Class C's on MB chassis are at or over GVWR. Certainly with a smaller diesel power Class C, WEIGHT is an important factor. Less important if in the eastern half of the country. VERY important if a lot of mountain grades are in your future!

Dave40, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. What Class C diesel do you have? If an MB-based chassis, the CMax may exceed its GCWR.

And, throw in a TPMS to that.

Andy, I hope the top photo in your post immediately above is the "BEFORE" picture, not after picture. Float voltage of 12.6 is a full volt low. And 11.85 on the chassis battery is DEAD. If you have a "smart combiner" for chassis battery charging, the 12.55 or 12.6 may not be enough to signal the combiner to charge the chassis batteries.

Dschuelke, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Sounds like you have hydraulic over hydraulic brakes( vs vacuum over hydraulic brakes in cars and lighter duty chassis). If so, the power steering pump provides the (extremely necessary) brake boost. Having no first hand experience with that system (Chevy P chassis I assume), hopefully someone with first hand experience can chime in.

Indeed, could be several different root causes. As Rich points out if a very high amp draw on the chassis battery (more than the "device" is capable of supplying it-- hence the need to know that the "device" is that allows the inverter/charger to charge the chassis battery) may be the culprit. Also, agree with Rich-- fully charged multiple battery bank going to stone dead that quickly would require a sizable draw OR bad batteries. Wouldn't hurt to fully charge the chassis batteries and have them load tested. Wouldn't take too many "stone dead" discharges to materially shorten their life. I know it is an almost new coach, but if the batteries sat stone dead on a dealer lot for awhile.........

Andy, Please tell us what "device" is used to take amps from the inverter/charger to the chassis battery. In most installations, the inverter/charger charges the house batteries. Then some "device" is used to connect the house batteries to the chassis batteries. One diagnostic test I would run is to engage to boost/combine switch which connects the two battery banks. Do not use if dry camping or without shore power. If it occurs, you know the problem is not with your "device" as the boost circuit is a second pathway to chassis battery charging.

bradyjones, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Nothing special about diesel pusher air brakes. Check with any shop/parts house that specializes in OTR trucks.

Carl, Please verify that the alternator is not wired to charge BOTH battery banks. That would be highly unusual!

My mantra.

Not sure there is "I KNOW how it is wired" answer. Best advice, remove the ground/negative cable from the chassis/starter batteries and see if the generator starts.

Bill, I totally agree, they should provide this information.

The problem is not an issue with the cc card company bill. The problem is that most U.S. gas stations require a 5 digit zip code for security. Canadian zip codes do not follow the same 5 digit pattern. But, agree, check with either your cc company (surely they have run into this) OR Check with a couple of the large gas companies you do business with in the U.S. Again, they will surely have run into this issue before. A quick search came up with this: What is my 5 digit zip code Canada? If prompted for your ZIP code, just enter the three digits of your postal code plus two zeros. So for example, if your postal code is A2B 3C4, the 5 digit number you should enter is 23400. Contact you card issuer if you have any questions. And this from Master Card: https://www.mastercard.ca/en-ca/consumers/features-benefits/travel-tips/mastercard-pay-at-pump.html

No question, parking right on the beach or within a short distance of salt water is corrosive. As Carl said, washing well, particularly underneath will help. Probably no more harmful than driving on salted roads up north.

There are a number of devices that will achieve the same goal (keeping the chassis battery charged when the coach is on 120 VAC). Most are quite a lot less expensive.

Yes, Liquid Spring suspensions were developed for ambulances, so it is available for Class C motorhomes.

dennis702, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Not aware of two oil filters on a Caterpillar 3126. I would use a Caterpillar filter. Any Caterpillar dealer will have it. Take in your ENGINE SERIAL NUMBER. The serial number will be on top of the valve cover. Fuel filters (if two), the primary filter/water separator should be a 10-30 micron rating element and the secondary one a 2 micron element On secondary, best to use a Caterpillar, not aftermarket part. Your chassis maker (suspect Freightliner) is the one who speced and installed at least the primary and may have also done the secondary. Yes, many chassis makers move the secondary fuel filter to an easier location than on-engine.

How would moisture in the air inside a tire have an effect this great on tire pressure increase? First, IMO, it is speculation that this is the root cause. Could it be-- CERTAINLY. Nitrogen and "dry air" follow the Ideal Gas Law-- basically PSI rises at a given rate with increase in temperature. Well documented since the 1800's. BUT (large BUT) if there is water in there, water is clearly not a "gasses" and there will be a higher PSI rise for a given temperature rise. And water could be in there from no air dryer on their air supply-- very unlikely as their air tools would live a very short life. It could also be the lubricant that they may have used to install the tire on the rim.

Yes, if overheating (and not because of loss of coolant) the best answer is to pull over, transmission in Neutral and idle around 1,200 RPM.

Lightnup, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Several factors here: 1. How good is your balance? Something you know better than anyone else. 2. How strong is the roof-- others with the same coach will need to advise you on this. 3. Conditions when you go up there-- certainly dry roof and good shoes beats wet and/or slick shoes. Carry a line/rope up there and have someone on the ground tie a bucket with your tools in it rather than trying to climb the ladder with hands full.

Yes, I would add a good charge line: Fuse at coach battery (which ever battery bank is closer to the back of the coach). Since this will be used while driving, the alternator will charge both banks so it is not critical whether you use chassis or house battery. Sized to protect whatever size wire you use. 8 Gauge wire recommended, fuse to back of coach. Water proof connection at back of coach/front of cord to toad. 8 Gauge wire to fuse at toad battery. This fuse is also critical, as both coach end and toad end batteries are "hot". Note: the ground between coach and toad will also have to be of sufficient gauge.

JimChan52, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Please tell us what coach you have and what make/model air leveling system you have. Thanks.

Carl, With the Cummins ISL it could be either. Call Cummins with your engine serial number. I am betting on an engine compression brake. If