wolfe10

Herman, Most inverter/chargers are wired directly to the house battery bank, not through a relay/isolator. I agree, most coaches do have a parasitic draw on their 12 VDC systems-- both house and chassis battery banks. BUT, since he is plugged in, the inverter/charger can and will easily keep up with the draw if everything is working as it should-- certainly on the house bank. And on the chassis bank as well IF it is wired to charge the chassis bank. Many are not wired to charge the chassis bank from the inverter/charger. Brett

Wonder if you are referring to the BATTERY ISOLATOR RELAY (one of the two types of battery isolators used on RV's) . Allows alternator to charge both battery banks, but separates the battery banks when the engine is off so that the house batteries do not discharge the chassis batteries. If so, a failed relay or wire from alternator to relay would keep the alternator from charging either battery bank. I don't think this is the OP's problem, as the alternator is his only means of charging the batteries. Brett

Lots of questions-- let's start with how the batteries are wired. The chassis batteries (two 12 VDC batteries) are wired in PARALLEL. That is positive of battery #1 to positive of battery #2 to house positive. Negative of battery #1 to negative of battery #2 to house negative/ground. House batteries (4-6 VDC batteries): Each pair of 6 VDC batteries is wired in SERIES to make "a 12 VDC battery in two cases". So House positive is wired to positive of battery #1. Negative of battery #1 is wired to positive of battery #2 and negative of battery #2 is wired to house negative/ground. Since you have two PAIRS of these, each PAIR is wired in parallel. There is no way we can tell you where your charging system is failing without more information. Make sure the inverter/charger's breakers (on the 120 VAC breaker panel) are on. Make sure the resettable breaker on the inverter/charger (some inverters have them external, some internal) is ON/RESET. Next, before plugging into shore power, measure voltage at the house battery with a digital voltmeter. Plug in and verify that the voltage rises-- unless batteries are deeply discharged, voltage should rise to 13.2 14.5 VDC. If it does not, check voltage at the inverter/charger. And some coaches have both battery banks wired so they are charged by the inverter/charger, others are wired so that only the house batteries are charged by the inverter/charger. If the latter, you will need a trick l start, Echo charger, etc to charge the chassis batteries. And, indeed, it is bad for a diesel engine to be started UNLESS you can drive it enough highway miles to get the oil (not just coolant) up to operating temperature. Anything less just adds a lot of moisture to the crankcase. Brett

Obviously, the use of a battery charger/tender requires that you have 120 VAC shore power where you store the coach. And if so, as long as the batteries are charged when you put it in storage, a small charger/tender should keep all the batteries on that battery bank charged. BUT, if you have a smart charger or inverter/charger AND IT IS PROPERLY PROGRAMMED, it will do the same thing. You will have to verify that your coach is wired so that the chassis battery bank is also charged or make arrangements so that the chassis batteries are maintained as well. Brett

First, you need to determine how many amp-hrs of battery you have available. Are the batteries fully charged? Are they reasonably new or old with diminished capacity? For best battery life, do not discharge batteries below 50%. All together, this should give you an idea of how many amp-hrs you have available. Next, you need to determine total load on the batteries. There are lots of other 12 VDC loads than just the TV: lights, refrigerator (even on propane), water pump, furnace, etc. And while you can determine the amp draw of the TV, if a 120 VAC TV, remember the draw from the inverter to run that load is not 100% efficient. A reasonable calculation for a 120 VAC appliance is to determine its power consumption in watts. As an example, let's say 3 amps/360 watts. Watts divided by 12 VDC gives you the amps of 12 VDC (assuming 100% inverter efficiency). So in our example 360 divided by 12= 30 amps @ 12 VDC. Figure 90% inverter efficiency to give you the final amp draw on your batteries. So, in our example, your batteries would provide 33 amps while powering the TV. Brett

It is better for the batteries to NOT deeply discharge them-- discharging below 50% of capacity materially shortens battery life. So, from that standpoint, more frequent running of the generator is better. Most efficient use of the generator is to discharge to 50%, then recharge to 85%, discharge to 50%.... It takes as long to charge the last 15% as it does to charge from 50% to 85%. If boondocking long term, you do need to bring the batteries to full charge at least once a week. Brett

You actually have several factors at work here: Can the dash/engine-driven A/C do an adequate job of cooling-- can it keep me comfortable? Does the dash A/C condenser add heat load to the engine, or is it out of the air flow of the engine cooling system-- important IF the engine coolant temperature is rising above thermostatic control. If the dash A/C can keep you comfortable, the added load of the engine driven compressor still uses less fuel than running a separate motor (the generator). But, if it will not keep you comfortable or adds enough to the heat load of the engine that the coolant temperature rises above thermostatic control, then turn on the generator/roof A/C's. Be sure to put the dash A/C on recirculate when using the roof A/C's so you are not drawing in hot air from outside. Brett

Absolutely, register with Workhorse. Not only to access the manuals, but also to VERIFY what you have and check for any recalls affecting your chassis. Brett

These kind of MPG threads always concern me as they often elicit answers of "what my coach gets" which is a VERY different question than what the OP asked. Meaningful comparisons between different coaches/different drivers are VERY difficult to make, as there a large number of variables other than just the one asked about (see below). Let me rephrase your specific question so we will get fewer "apples and oranges" comparisons: Will a modern turbo, inter-cooled 400 HP diesel IN THE SAME COACH, WITH THE SAME TOAD, DRIVEN THE SAME ROADS, DRIVEN THE SAME SPEEDS, AND OF THE SAME EPA GENERATION, etc, etc, get better MPG than one with a 330 HP engine? Stated another way, since all other variables are assumed to be the same (therefore the same HP would be required to move the coach over each mile of road), can a larger diesel engine produce XX HP more efficiently than a smaller diesel engine. The answer is MAYBE-- it is certainly possible. Unlike gasoline engines, diesel engines are most efficient at lower RPM and lighter throttle settings. So a larger engine, turning slower and at lower throttle settings can be more efficient than a smaller engine turning faster and at higher throttle settings. But, remember, the larger engine will weigh more, so coach weight is up. They will also likely require a beefed up frame (heavier) to handle the extra power. The cooling system will have to be larger (heavier) to handle the higher heat load, etc. Also, few would back out of the throttle of a larger engine while climbing a grade, and a larger engine WILL use more fuel at WOT (Wide Open Throttle) than a smaller one. Larger engines are quite a lot more expensive-- enough more than smaller engines that you could never pay for the difference if fuel consumption even if you agreed to keep your foot out of the throttle. Just a few of the variables, each of which has a material affect on MPG that make comparisons between coaches less relevant when addressing your question: 1. Weight of coach (single slide 36' or quad slide 40') 2. Weight of toad (Smart Car or 4 wheel drive crew cab) 3. Terrain (flat lander or living in the Rocky Mountains) 4. Speed driven (cruisin at 55 MPH or keeping up with the car traffic at 75MPH) 5. EPA "Generation" (older, pre-emission requirement diesel of newer diesel with emissions equipment) Brett

Several issues could be at work here: 1. I have seen bearing end play improperly adjusted-- a dial indicator is needed to set it properly. If the tech just tightens the axle nut (setting end play to zero) it can overheat the bearings and damage the Stemco cap. Most tag axles as well as most front axles have end play specs of .003-.005". Spartan (number below) will be able to tell you the correct end play for your axles. 2. You need to insure that there are no bent or malfunctioning parts in the suspension control system-- ride height valves, their control rods, etc. 3. I strongly suggest you call Spartan customer support at 800 543-4277. Work through determining the proper weight distribution for your coach, the diagnosis and resolution of your issues with them. Please keep us posted. Brett

I am sure you are well aware of this, but there is no resemblance mechanically between the old air cooled rear engine Beetles and the new front wheel drive units. Brett

Herman, Wish that were true. But there are many manual transmission vehicles that the manufacturers have deemed as NOT towable 4 wheels down. All Mazdas for example. Please do refer to the FMCA website Hermann mentioned for list of vehicles approved by their manufacturer. Could some that are not on the list be towable-- sure. The manufacturer could even say they are not towable to avoid the liability even though mechanically they can be towed. The VW MAY fall into that category. Brett

Do you have a 120 VAC wiring schematic for your coach? If so, see if the non-working outlets have any points in common. While it could be two separate causes, start by tracing the wiring diagram back from the failed outlets. A bad GFI is a common issue. Start by unplugging any appliance in those outlets. It is possible that one DOES have a ground fault. Reset the GFI and test with another appliance or voltmeter. If that doesn't do it, it could still be a bad GFI. If so, resetting it may not be enough-- you may have to replace it. IF, repeat IF you are safe working with 120 VAC, unplug from shore power/turn off generator. Remove the GFI enough that you can check it with a voltmeter. Turn on 120 VAC (plug into shore power or turn on generator). Check in and out sides? Another reasonable possibility is a loose connection. Brett

I went through this exact same process last year when I replace an original non-working Datron dish and Wingard crank up antenna with a Kingdome dish/off-air antenna in one unit-- also on a Foretravel, also with FG roof. My decision was to remove the obsolete equipment and plug the holes, including the large center hole for the Wingard crank up antenna. I cut wood plugs for the large holes, masked off the holes and used West System Epoxy and FG cloth to seal all the holes. Sanded smooth and painted with Rust-Oleum "Universal Advanced Formula" "Gloss Pure White" (245199). You could also just remove the old screws and apply new caulk to them and rebed after removing the equipment. Not sure I would be comfortable just filling a large diameter hole with caulk alone. You do not want to take a chance on getting water into the plywood underlay that supports the FG. Brett

Yes, this is the order I would use: 1. Turn OFF and back ON the two breakers located on the generator itself. Restart generator. 2. If still no power to the house AND YOU ARE SAFE WORKING AROUND 120 VAC, with generator off and shore power off, remove the lid to the ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch). Start the generator. Check for 120 VAC on the "from generator" hot and neutral. If present, check at the hot and neutral on the "to house breaker box" side of the ATS. 3. If no power to the "from generator" hot and neutral, carefully check the connections between generator and house wiring. Could be nothing more than a loose wire nut. Brett

Don, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. If you are going to store waste for a long period of time (like dry camping w/o dumping for over a week), it might help. But, let's address WHY you would use any product in your holding tanks. Is it odor in the coach? If so, you need to address how tank odors are getting from the tanks into the coach. Nothing will make the gray or black tank "smell like spring time"! Is it fear of forming solids in the waste tanks? If so how long between your being able to access a dump station? How full do you allow your tanks to get before dumping? What procedure do you use to dump the tanks? Brett

Boy, that is a serious enough issue that we may need to start it a separate thread-- How To Get Rid Of Pesky Grandkids. Don't know if any of the normal PESTicides work on grandkids. Maybe Ghost Busters can come slime them, no, never mind, they may enjoy that. Brett

Certainly warmer ambient temperatures hurt refrigerator efficiency. Said another way, if there is a problem, it is more likely to show up in warmer ambient temperatures. So, let's start by reviewing some of the items that negatively effect refrigerator efficiency: 1. Make sure freezer and refrigerator door gaskets are air tight. Do the "Dollar Bill" test: Close the door on a $1 (yes, a $100 bill works better-- after all it is an RV) all around the perimeter of each door. Insure that the resistance to pulling the bill out is uniform as you move around the gasket and reasonably difficult to pull the bill out. 2. Make sure the refrigerator condensate drain has the restrictor in the end. If it does not, warm humid outside air rises into the refrigerator adding heat and lots of moisture. 3. Check air flow in the back of the refrigerator to insure that there are no restrictions-- insect and animals seem to like to get in and nest in some of these spaces. If those check out, let us know and we can "take it to the next level". Brett

Yes, the majority of tag axles raise for tight cornering. If so they use the front/drive axle as the operative wheelbase for cornering. If they don't raise, they would scrub badly on tight cornering, and may therefore affect turning radius. Brett

Have you measured from bed platform to ceiling with bed up? Be sure to include thickness of sheets and blankets and ?pillows? that you will be leaving on the bed when stored. Brett

Interesting. Wheelbase and front wheel cut angles are the two major factors in turning radius (at least at curb level). Overhangs come into play in looking at turning radius if higher than curb level is being discussed. Brett

Bill, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Is this a Safari Trek with MagicBed? Do you have the dimensions? Brett

Clay, Thanks for the link. On page 6 of the brochure, it shows that the Ford chassis was standard, with the Workhorse W20 (20,500 pound GVWR and 26,000 GCWR) as the optional chassis. Brett

Yes, anything over 22,000 pounds for the W22 and 24,000 for the W24 would be GCWR (Gross COMBINED Weight Rating) which is the rating of the weight of the coach AND anything you pull behind it. The 22,000 and 24,000 as Clay said are GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) or how much the coach can weigh. Brett

For the most complete information, to register your chassis with Workhorse and to check for any recalls affecting your chassis, call Workhorse with your chassis number: (877) 294-6773 or (248) 588-5300 You can also get the form to register on their website which would enable you to view the manuals on-line: http://www.workhorse.com/Default.aspx?tabid=104 Brett