wolfe10

Alex, Before we get into the correct tire pressure, with that left right imbalance in the rear, the very first thing I would recommend is having the RIDE HEIGHT checked. You have two ride height valves on the rear axle. If they are out of adjustment, they can shift a LOT of weight from side to side. So, before concluding that you have that much imbalance (and setting tire pressure based on the heavier side -- all tires on an axle inflated to the same PSI), verify ride height and then reweigh. Brett

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Go to: http://www.fmca.com/motorhome/towing Click on the year model and then scroll down to the make you are interested in. Brett

Bernie, "Lack of vacuum" would show up as air flow changing from coming out the selected vent to the defrost vents which are the default location. Brett

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. You might take a look at this current thread on the same subject: http://community.fmca.com/index.php?showtopic=2087&hl= Brett

Great information, thanks Xplorer. Ya, as you get new information, you can just click on "Edit Post" and then "Full Edit" on your original post and update the post. That way readers have one complete document. Brett

Thanks for the update, Don. As I Private Messaged you, I forwarded your information to my engineering contact at Koni. Here is his reply: There's a design flaw in the rear suspension. He must get axle straps. Have him contact Tim at Specialty Logistics (541) 515-6651. Back to my comments: As I posted earlier, NO shock whether Koni or Road King is designed to act as an axle stop. And even if they don't break, acting as an axle stop would put significant stress on the shock mounts. And they are even harder to repair than broken shocks. Bottom line, axle straps are the way to go-- far better than pulling apart shocks or breaking shock mounts (both of which I have seen on poorly designed suspensions or coaches with out of spec ride heights). Brett

Fan-Tastic Vent 1-800-521-0298 for assistance between 8 am and 5 pm E.S.T. http://www.fantasticvent.com/faq/help.html Brett

I just received this reply to a copy of your post I sent to an Onan tech I rely on: "As this is relatively new, might give the folks at Flight Systems a chance at it. Talk to John Weaver there, they may take it on as a sort of trial/experimental case." Brett

Onan Trouble Shooting Guide: http://www.cumminsonan.com/www/pdf/manuals/981-0161C.pdf Brett

Bernie, Assuming you have a "smart" inverter charger (what model is it), have you programmed it/set the dip switches? There will be a section in your inverter manual on this. Among other things you need to tell your inverter/charger are battery bank size (in amp hrs), battery technology (wet cell, AGM or gel), outside temperature, etc. AFTER verifying all setting are proper, the most important spec is what is the FLOAT VOLTAGE. Float voltage is the voltage the inverter/charger maintains after the batteries are fully charged. Ideal is 13.2-13.5 VDC. To verify voltage, check with a digital voltmeter at the battery bank. That is much more accurate than the "idiot" lights. Another question, does this high voltage remain after dark (i.e. when the solar is not charging)? And you may have to break down and call Monaco to determine how your inverter is wired. Brett

Not necessarily true. It is as related to price point of the coach as to engine size/length. Sure, larger engines usually come with side radiators, but are also generally found in higher end coaches. But, there are plenty of exceptions to the "engine size" rule: Our 250 HP 1993 Foretravel for example has a side radiator. There are a lot of 400 HP rear radiator lower end coaches out there. Side radiator coaches are more costly to build, so more price point sensitive brands/models are more likely to have rear radiators, whether 250 or 400 HP. Brett

Gary, My first call would be to Monaco for their assistance in troubleshooting this. They designed, built it, and have the wiring diagrams, etc. Brett

Gary, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. The generator slide was designed and installed by your coach builder, so we would need more information in order to be address how your particular coach's generator locking mechanism works. Does yours have a positive lock for the generator slide? If so, does the locking mechanism work easily and does it engage when you close it? Or is it hydraulic ..... or electric? Brett

Don, I hope (the correct verb-- and not a very good one when you are dealing with physics) you are right about the new shocks being able to stand up to being the axle stop. No matter how stiff the dampening in a shock, it will not stop you from reaching the axle stop on extension-- if it were stiff enough to do that, it would give you an extremely uncomfortable ride. And if the shock happens to be strong enough to act as an axle stop without pulling apart, it will put a severe load on the shock mounts which then become the "weak link". Bottom line-- I would look at having a standard axle strap installed to control overextension. Brett

IF you are safe working with 120 VAC electricity, determine "how far" the 120 VAC gets from the generator: Check where generator output is wired to house wiring (usually wire nuts). Check at generator IN side of ATS. Let us know that you find. And it is always a good idea in cases like this to turn OFF and then back ON the two on-generator breakers. Brett

To tell the power TO the inverter is off: At night, when the solar panels are not charging the batteries, turn on a bunch of 12 VDC load-- lights, furnace, etc. Monitor battery voltage. Turn off the "suspected" power TO the inverter. When you find the right one, the inverter/charger will cease to charge the batteries, so voltage will start dropping. Should drop within 15 minutes or so from 13.2+ to around 12.7 and then drop very slowly from there as the surface charge is used up. Brett

Berine, Wonder if those are the breakers FROM (out of) the inverter. Generally, the larger 120 VAC breaker box contains the breaker TO the inverter, with the smaller box being dedicated only to those circuits powered BY the inverter. But, understand, even the old Xantrex installation manuals show nine acceptable ways to wire the 120 VAC side of the inverter. There is no "this is the correct way" to wire one. You may need to look in your coach owners manual or perhaps call Monaco to ask them about the breaker(s) which go TO the inverter. Brett

Some fluorescent light manufacturers such as Thinlite do offer a "Radio Frequency Suppressant inverter to reduce, and in some cases, completely eliminate interference produced by the ballast. " http://www.solarseller.com/thinlite_ballas...ressed_ballasts Brett

Ray, If you have any concern and want to verify exactly how it is installed, have you looked at the installation manual for your microwave-- it may even be on-line? If it is not clear from that, call the microwave manufacturer tech line. Better than bending something or getting it half out and finding that you can't get it the rest of the way. Brett

Bernie, OBJECTIVE: To allow your solar panel to supply battery recharging and allow the inverter to supply those circuits it "feeds" (powered by the solar panels supplying the battery bank) while still leaving all other 120 VAC circuits alive and working from shore power. ACTION: Turn off ONLY the breaker in the main 120 VAC breaker box THAT POWERS THE INVERTER/CHARGER. This assumes you have an inverter/charger unit). On a cloudy day or at night if the battery voltage drops below 50% (12.2 VDC) turn the inverter/charger breaker back on. Brett

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Start by clicking on the "Search" box at the top of this page. Just type in: insurance. It will pull up several threads on motorhome insurance as well as some dealing with extended service contracts. Let us know if you have specific questions. Brett Wolfe

Another option is to install an electric booster pump to force more engine hot coolant to the dash heater. Here is one I found using Google: http://www.daviescraig.com.au/Electric_Wat...ps-content.aspx Their smallest pump even lists as one of its uses: "Heater Booster Pump – The EBP® increases heater performance during normal vehicle operation............" Brett

Paul, The valves are in different locations: If you have a motor-aid water heater, the valve to shut off hot engine coolant flow to it which forces more hot engine coolant to the dash heater would likely be near the water heater. The water valve you control from the dash HVAC control should be in the front of the coach, near the heater core. This is usually on the passengers side and can generally be seen by accessing through the "nose". I have also seen a few older coaches with a valve in the heater line back near the engine. Its purpose would be to shut off water flow to dash heater (and motor-aid water heater if equipped) in case of a leak in that circuit. Brett

Bob, Give Xantrex a call on Monday. Sounds like you can well-describe the symptoms-- they should have a solution. Brett

Lex, Do you have a motor-aid water heater (engine coolant warms your hot water)? If so, they are normally "T"'ed off the line to the dash heater. Many coaches with motor-aid water heaters (including ours) have a valve in the line to the water heater than can be shut off to force more engine-temperature water to the dash heater. And part of "checking it out" would be to remove the hose from the water control valve (front of coach) and verify that the heater temperature control fully opens the valve when set to HOT. Brett