wolfe10

While many will have a favorite (anything- be it oil, car, motorhome, etc) any synthetic oil that meets the Mil-Specs provided by your chassis maker will be fine. One other criteria I use is that it is universally available. So if you select a quality oil that meets the above specs and see it at Walmart, etc, THAT adds to its desirability to me. Brett

Jim, It's not reasonable to speculate on the cause of smoking. It could be a fuel system issue, or could be an air supply problem. Quite a few low power/smoking issues on diesels are caused by leaks in the intake system between the turbo, CAC and engine. Leaking Charge Air Coolers or even a loose hose clamp will not allow enough air to properly operate the engine. Again, my suggestion, because it is a Caterpillar is to take it to a Caterpillar dealer. All they work on is engines like yours. And if it were a Cummins, I would say the same-- take it to a Cummins dealer. Brett

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Tightening the four mounting bolts would only be effective if the water came in when it rained (i.e. from the roof) or if the condensate drain is OK but the condensate water is pooling on the roof around the A/C unit. A quick look on the roof (if safe) will tell you if there is water on it. If so, you may need to replace the roof seal-- no big expense. And if your coach is equipped with a drain other than just onto the roof, check it for a clog. If there is no water on the roof, indeed you will need to check the condensate drain in the A/C for a clog. While there, it would be a good idea to use a commercial A/C condenser cleaner on the condenser itself. You can get that from any HVAC supply house-- this is not RV specific. Please let us know what you find. Brett

Dwight, I use it anywhere penetrating oil is needed. Have used in on the motorhome and most recently, on a remote Cay in the Bahamas to free up a stainless steel screw into aluminum base that had "welded" itself together (galvanic corrosion). I had ATF onboard and got a couple of ounces of acetone from a FG boat builder. Mixed it 50/50, applied it several times over a few hour period and the screws came out. Brett

Mark, Yes, protecting the radiator fins with cardboard (I cut two pieces that will overlap-- easier to get in and a little better protection. Duct tape them together after they are in place. And the best "penetrating" oil I have found is 50/50 ATF/Acetone. Dab it on a couple of days in a row and it really helps. A Q-tip often works well to get the oil where you need it. And when the fan is out, be sure to take advantage of the extra access and take a hose and flush the radiator fins from the engine-room side. Do the CAC from the outside as well. Brett

Mark, You may need a pulley puller, but I have also worked on fans that pulled off rather easily after removing the bolts and those who have a threaded "puller" where screwing in a bolt breaks the fan loose. Check with your chassis maker or closely check yours out to see how it is built. Brett

Answers may be a little difficult. Some, like you may have the K&N filter with OR without the K&N's performance air intakes. Perhaps someone has a MPG history of "Before and After" (1) filter and (2) fitting the K&N's performance air intake. Might also ask about any change in performance as that is where I would suspect a change-- far more than an MPG change. Note: at least all the diesel engine manufacturers recommend AGAINST the oiled cotton element filters. They do let in more air, but also more dirt. Brett

Herman, I suspect your proboscis is getting longer. I have sailed Lake Texoma and seen the charts-- never say a sunk RV in person or on the charts. Were Lone Star Beers, Margarettas, etc involved in this adventure. Inquiring minds want to know. Brett

OK, as a long-time sailor (we are currently on the sailboat in the Bahamas -- sailed from Texas) I would be very suspect about the seas that vehicle could handle. Heck, we are stuck in West End, Grand Bahamas right now waiting to cross back to West Palm with seas in the Gulf Stream running 7-9'. Could you cross a pond or lake on a calm day in that amphibious motorhome-- probably. Rough weather-- not me. And just think of "dunking" your motorhome in salt water! Sorry to be negative, but that is a little too "multi-purpose" for me. Will stick with a motorhome AND a boat to do land and sea. Brett

Jim, Best advice when the most common cause of loss of performance (clogged fuel filter) is not the cause is to take it to a Caterpillar dealer. They deal with engine issues for a living. Far better than a truck shop that may deal with some engine issues, but also brakes, transmissions, suspensions, etc. Brett

Jim, One reason there have not been more posts (other than Tim's excellent post) is that there are so many different ways that your electrical system can be wired. Some but not many coaches have a separate generator start battery. Definitely look at your wiring diagram or contact your coach manufacturer for details on exactly how your batteries and their charging are configured. Many electrical systems are configured as follows(again, will NOT apply to all cases): Two battery banks, CHASSIS and HOUSE. House normally is wired as generator start battery, but there are certainly some that use the chassis battery. Engine alternator charges both battery banks, generally through a battery isolator which can be diode-based or solenoid/relay-based. Inverter/charger or converter always charge the house bank. Some also charge the chassis bank. If you have an Echo charger, it is likely that it is used to charge the chassis battery bank when the inverter/charger or converter charges the house battery bank AND voltage exceeds the pre-set minimum on the house bank. A digital voltmeter (start under $20 at Radio Shack, Sears, etc) will allow you to check for voltage at each battery bank and at the large positive lug on the generator. Here is what you should find: Shore power off and generator off: Both battery banks should read different voltage and with no load on them range from 12.2 VDC (50% discharged battery) to 12.8 (fully charged battery). Starting the engine and bringing engine RPM to fast idle should show both banks in the 13.5 to 14.2 VDC range. Engine off, shore power on, inverter/charger or converter working: House battery bank should be 13.5 to 14.5 VDC. With an echo charger, voltage on the chassis bank should be similar. Brett

Jim, I have no information on whether placing both fuel filters before the fuel lift pump will work satisfactorily. 100% of the applications I have seen have the same arrangement: fuel tank, primary fuel filter, lift pump, secondary fuel filter, engine. It is a shame that your coach builder did not allow access to the top of the engine. That will sure add up the price of all work on the engine including/especially valve adjustment. Did you verify that there is no access through the bedroom or closet floor? Brett

Please see responses to your other identical post at: My linkhttp://community.fmca.com/topic/2432-perry-weather/page__pid__12359#entry12359

Looking at Weather Underground (My linkhttp://classic.wunderground.com/cgi-bin/findweather/getForecast?query=perry%20ga&wuSelect=WEATHER) it should quit raining early tomorrow morning. Then max of 20% the rest of tomorrow and zero to 10% chance of rain all the way through the forecast period which is through next Tuesday. Also, the winds should help dry it out, blowing 10+ for several days. A LOT better forecast than at several previous Conventions! Brett

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. There are two fuses to the Allison ECU. Check them first. Also, verify that other accessories that should operate with the key on, such as the dash HVAC fan, are operating with the key in the "on" position. If not, the ignition solenoid should be checked. Brett

First, is this a new problem or has it always done this? Is this installed in a slide (therefore upper air exit on the side) or in the coach (roof upper air exit)? Have you checked for any obstruction at the top of the refrigerator/roof or upper air outlet? I have seen bird or rodent nests cause this. Brett

Best advice would be to contact Air Tabs directly and ask that question: http://www.airtab.com/contact.html Brett

Mike, You will have slightly better handling if you keep them separate. If connected, when you go around a corner, rather than the bag on the outside of the corner resisting leaning, the air will rush from that outer side's bag to the other bag. So it will lean more and sway more when other side to side forces affect the coach. Brett

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Tell us what kind of things you enjoy doing-- that will give us a better ability to answer your questions. Kids along? Enjoy outdoor stuff? History? Brett

As suggested, MPG is but one of the cost factors you need to consider. But if that truly is your question, the best answer is IT DEPENDS. Physics dictates that MPG depends on whether you are on flat terrain or hill/mountains. Weight is a major factor in MPG on grades, but not on flat ground. To look at this, go to this Caterpillar Corporation document-- yes the same physics applies to gasoline powered rigs: My linkhttp://www.catrvclub.org/Tech%20Talks/RV%20Performance%20.pdf Look at the HP requirements for a given weight coach on flat ground, then on a 6% grade. You will see that weight has little effect on flat ground an a large effect on grades. HP requirement easily translates into fuel usage. Brett

My linkhttp://www.fmca.com/images/stories/pdf/conventions/ga11_directions.pdf Parking for FMCA’s 85th Family Reunion & Motorhome Showcase will commence on Saturday, March 12, at 7:00 a.m. The Holding Area will open on Friday, March 11, and is located at Elko and Starbuck Roads. Please go to the Holding Area if you wish to meet and park with friends; if your credentials are being held at Will Call; if you arrive before the date on your admittance card; if you are an individual family arriving for the convention without a specific affiliated credential (Governing Board, advance crew, volunteer,handicap, or in a registered caravan); or if you are not pre-registered for the convention. Brett

Yes, a properly functioning LP powered refrigerator is the normal way to travel with an absorption refrigerator. A complete "burner area tune-up" is part of the refrigerator's required annual maintenance-- should be a description in the refrigerator owners manual. No special tools and no parts are needed. From an energy stand point it makes much better sense to burn a small propane flame to produce the heat needed to run the refrigerator rather than to burn diesel in the engine (not efficient) to have the alternator produce extra 12 VDC (not efficient) to run an inverter (not efficient) to power an electric heating element! Running a generator just to power the refrigerator would be even more power inefficient, and over time would carbon up the generator from running at too light a load. Brett

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Indeed, the intrusion of warm/humid air is the cause of your frosting/need to frequently defrost. Check three places. Do the "dollar bill test" all around the door gaskets-- you are looking for firm resistance to pulling the bill out when the door is closed on the bill. The other place is the condensate drain. There should be a factory restrictor (either a plastic insert in the outside end of the hose or a crimped area of the hose. You can also use zip ties to make the drain form a "drip loop" so there is a water trap to exclude warm outside air from "rising" into the refrigerator. Also, check where any lines or wires enter the freezer unit from the back-- sometimes the putty falls out leaving an air gap. Different residential refrigerators have differing sensitivity to MSW inverters. Some will work fine on them, others will work poorly or shorten their life. Best advice is to check with the refrigerator manufacturer. As to whether a residential refrigerator would be a good solution for you has more to do with how often you are not plugged in to shore power than whether your alternator/inverter can keep up with the additional load while on the road. If you are not on shore power, you will need a large battery bank, large/high amp charger, lots of extra generator run time, etc. Brett

Often, local tire dealers participate in the FMCA conventions, offering discounts at the conventions. It is a little early to determine who will be at the Madison convention in August -- we still have the Perry Convention coming up. Here is a link to the "Rumor of a Michelin Tire Discount Program" thread: http://community.fmca.com/topic/2286-rumor-of-a-michelin-tire-discount-program-for-fmca-members/ Brett

You might call the Caterpillar RV Hotline (877 777-3126) with your engine serial number and ask whether there have been upgrades AND the reason for the upgrades. Upgrades could have been made for power, economy, drivability or emissions. Said another way, an upgrade (if available)may not give you an improvement an area of interest to you. Several of those factors are in conflict with others-- for example lowering emissions may hurt performance and/or economy. Brett