wolfe10

Some protection is afforded by the coach rear skirt or mud flap. Then, I am aware of basically two types of toad protectors closer to the toad. They can be used together or individually: Rockshields and Skirts : Rockshield and Skirts Look forward to other's ideas on how they protect their toads. Brett Wolfe

Road Dog, Read VERY carefully the statement they give you. They did NOT, repeat NOT address what RPM to run the engine for best MPG. They gave an almost double talk answer of BEST OVERALL PERFORMANCE and fuel mileage. You will get better MPG at closer to 1500 RPM if on relatively flat terrain (where it does not downshift on every upgrade). In rolling hills/mountains, you will need to run a little faster to get closer to "Best Overall Performance." 1500 and "economy mode" on the Allison will likely give you best MPG. Brett Wolfe

Reducing Servicing Errors Those who take their coach to others for service (or those who do their own work, but whose memories are not what they used to be) should place up to three labels in the engine service area. These will address the majority of mistakes made by servicing techs. One would be: "Oil Capacity Including Oil Filter XX qts." Label to be placed near oil fill. Two: For those with Transynd in their Allisons: "Transynd ONLY." Label to be placed near transmission fill. Oil capacity with filters changed (NOT initial fill capacity) would also be a good idea. Three: If other than standard coolant (low silicate for diesel with SCA) a label identifying what coolant is used. Most with Caterpillar engines who choose (like I did) to go with an Extended Life Coolant use Cat ELC because it is universally available at all Cat shops and has a proven track record in our engines. Locate the label near the coolant overflow reservoir. So: "Caterpillar ELC ONLY." Brett Wolfe

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. I would agree, your mileage is at the low end. But, the more details you give, the better we can address your issues: What does your coach weigh? What are you towing? How fast do you drive? Do you drive in regular or economy mode (Allison transmission)? Flat land, hills or mountains? Did you subtract for fuel used by the generator? Is this a calculation of miles driven divided by gallons of fuel or is this from your computer? Brett Wolfe

ABSOLUTELY. Just go to "Engines." Click on "New topic" and share your ideas. My only reservation is that there are more differences in the gasoline drivetrains than between different diesel drivetrains. The "old technology" big block push rod Chevy 454 and Ford 460 are very different from the "new technology" overhead cam high RPM Ford V10 6.8 liter. And transmissions range from 3 speed with no lockup converter to 6 speed with lockup converter in 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th and 6th gear. So, the more specific information you post AND the the more specific information you suggest others post, the more relevant will be the whole discussion. Thanks. Brett Wolfe

Tom, Chlorine has been the industry standard for tank and water system sanitizing. And along with boiling is the EPA's recommended method of disinfecting water: EPA Water Purification Recommendations, But, as you mention, there are other chemicals that can be used. I have seen information on the use of Chlorine Dioxide (under the brand name Purogene) but it is many times more expensive: Purogene Manufacturer What do you use? And while screwing the hose ends together which we do as well, will certainly reduce contamination (and getting water in storage areas!), a damp warm environment IS still a good place for organisms to grow. If the hose is used frequently, this is a non-issue. But if this is the first camping trip in months sanitizing is a good idea. Brett Wolfe

Sanitizing your potable water tank and system starts with draining all the old water out of the tank and low water drains. If the water was really old, smelled or had any growth, hook up the hose and, with the drains open, let the hose run for a few minutes. Close all drains. Then pour a cup of bleach in the potable water hose (you know, the white one that is lead free). That will sanitize the hose and any filter as well as potable water system. Fill the potable tank completely, let it sit an hour. Then open each tap and let it run (on your water pump from tank) until you smell chlorine. It will take awhile for the hot water, since you will be mixing the heavily chlorinated water with 6 or 10 gallons of the old water. This will disinfect your entire system. Let that sit for a couple of hours, then drain. Leave the tank drain open as you start to fill with fresh water, that will flush a lot of the residual heavily chlorinated water from the tank. Then after filling about half way with fresh water, turn on the pump and open each tap until no chlorine is smelled. Drain and re-fill and you are finished. Other points: Store water for a maximum of two weeks in the summer and three in the winter (cooler temps slow algae and bacteria growth. So, turn over the water in the tank. Do NOT fill the tank at the beginning of the season then leave it in there as you use CG water at each over-night. When you do use tank water, it will be BAD. DO use a SEDIMENT ONLY filter for all incoming water. 5 micron sediment only filters are available at Home Depot,etc. Many CG's are on well water. The fine bits of sand aren't necessarily bad for you, but can mess up the pressure switch on your water pump. Do NOT use a charcoal filter for any water that you will be storing-- removing chlorine (which a charcoal filter will do) and then storing the water is a recipe for BAD water. Charcoal filters after the potable water pump are fine. Brett Wolfe

Fuel Filters Though this was written specifically for Caterpillar engines, 90 percent of this applies to any DP's fuel system. The typical "proper" fuel system layout: Fuel tank, primary fuel filter/water separator (course filter element-- 10 or 30 micron), lift pump, secondary fuel filter (2 micron filter element) WITH Caterpillar manual primer pump built into top of filter housing, engine. With the above system, you buy either a 10 or 30 micron primary filter element and the Caterpillar 2 micron secondary filter element. Install both DRY (per Caterpillar, not just my opinion). Use the manual primer pump to prime. To use the manual pump, no tools are needed. Unscrew the knurl nut (counter-clockwise). Pump in/out until the resistance goes from easy to firm (this will happen within a few strokes when all the air is purged from the system). IMPORTANT: Re-tighten knurl nut. You are ready to start the engine and drive off. Now, for chassis where chassis maker took some "money saving" shortcuts: If no manual primer pump: A Caterpillar manual primer pump can easily be fit if you have a Caterpillar secondary filter housing. It will have a block-off plate attached with two bolts that can be removed and a pump bolted right up. See "Files" section of the Cat RV Club Technical Website for parts list. http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/CATRVCLUB/files/. BUT, until you do that, you MUST pre-fill the filters with clean diesel before installing. Be sure, particularly on the secondary fuel filter to fill ONLY the small outer holes (inlets), NOT the large center hole (outlet). Anything that goes into the center hole will go directly to the injectors with no filtration! Ya, it takes a lot longer to fill this way, but it is safer than "hoping" that you have no contaminants in the fuel (and you can not see a 5 micron particle with the naked eye). If only a single fuel filter (chassis maker deleted secondary filter to save money), the filter element MUST BE 2 MICRON. Here is the rub. Go into a Freightliner dealer and ask the parts guy for a fuel filter element for a Freightliner motorhome chassis. If the last 4 filter elements that parts guy sold were for the two filter system, IT IS QUITE LIKELY THAT HE WILL JUST HAND YOU A 10 OR 30 MICRON ELEMENT-- it will fit. YOU WILL BE SPENDING BIG BUCKS TO GET THE "ROCKS" OUT OF THE INJECTORS-- ACTUALLY YOU WILL BE REPLACING THEM. By the same token, if you have the two filter system and the last 4 filter elements he sold were for the single filter system, it is quite likely that he will just hand you a 2 micron element. Almost as bad. You now have a two micron element followed by another 2 micron element. The first will clog up quickly and the second will get a "free ride". Moral: Specify what micron rating filter element you need for YOUR application. BETTER, know the part number for the correct element and ask for that part number. Unlike most maintenance items, there is NO AVERAGE LIFE for a fuel filter. If all it sees is clean fuel, it could go for years. One tank of contaminated fuel could clog several sets of filters. ALWAYS CARRY AT LEAST ONE EXTRA SET OF FUEL FILTERS. You can find someone to install them virtually anywhere in the world, but may not be able to get the proper filter elements in the boonies. Mark the date on the filters when you buy them so you use "oldest first" and buy a new replacement that goes into your parts bin on the coach. Our engine’s fuel systems are "HIGH BYPASS". That means that for every gallon of diesel pumped through the engine, only a few ounces are burned. The rest is used to cool and lubricate the head and then returns to the fuel tank. What this means in practical terms is that the next time you stop after refueling you should visually check the primarily filter (those with a clear bowl filter), as dirt and water will show up very quickly if present. Brett Wolfe

An easy way to rule out the whole fuel supply system is to hook up a fuel line from a jerry can of fresh fuel. Obviously, keep the gasoline container and vapor a safe distance from the generator itself and any source of sparks. Another way is to splice in one of the inexpensive clear-body fuel filters just before the fuel pump and check for bubbles in the fuel passing through it. Brett Wolfe

What brand brake control? That may help narrow it down. Brett Wolfe

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. What year VW do you have/are you considering.

You will likely have one 120 VAC breaker box (with breakers, not fuses) and GFI's (just like in the bathroom at home-- may have more than one) to check IF these things are 120 VAC. You will have one to several 12 VDC fuse boxes (yup, with fuses). Again, first step is to determine if the inoperative items are 120 VAC or 12 VDC. Brett Wolfe

Thanks, Jim. I went back and edited the torque units to be Pound- Feet, not Foot-Pounds. Brett Wolfe

YES, the fuse on the incoming 120 VAC line IS internal. Send me a message with what e-mail address you want the information on fuse sent to. Here is an excerpt from the pdf: Checking the Fuse F2 F2 is a ¼-amp fuse located inside the inverter/charger on the AC circuit board (the smaller of the two circuit boards). Subjecting the inverter to an over-voltage on the AC INPUT can cause fuse F2 to fail. If this occurs, the inverter/charger will invert, but it will no longer charge or transfer when AC power is applied to the AC INPUT. The F2 fuse can be tested without removing it from the inverter/charger. • Disconnect AC input wires from the inverter/charger (Charger AC input on Freedom 25 and Fleet Power 2500). Using an ohmmeter, check the resistance between the hot and neutral AC INPUT wires. The resistance should measure from 150–170 ohms, indicating the fuse has not blown. Brett Wolfe

Wayne, Your peak torque RPM is 1,500. So you would not want to operate your engine below 1,500 RPM except at light throttle (and the Allison transmission should be programmed to do this). And 1,650-1700 RPM would likely give your best MPG. The larger the engine, the lower the Peak Torque RPM. Example Caterpillar C7 Peak Torque RPM is 1,440. C15 Peak Torque (2050 Pound- Feet by the way) is at 1,200 RPM. Brett Wolfe

Cathe, Each engine has an RPM at which it produces Peak Torque. It will be stated in the engine manufacturer's sales as well as technical sheets on the engine. Some Aflas have Caterpillar C7's, some Cummins ISL's. I don't know which you have. But here is the sheet on the Caterpillar C7: Caterpillar C7 Spec Sheet This sheet lists Torque as 860-950 Pound- Feet (depending on how the engine is speced) AT 1,440 RPM. SO 1,440 RPM IS PEAK TORQUE RPM. Peak torque is significant, as it also determines the LOWEST SAFE OPERATING RPM FOR THAT ENGINE at anything but light throttle. And for most modern diesel engines, operating 150-200 RPM above that RPM will generally give the best MPG.

As the Toad Wiring Options in my post above shows, there are basically three "accepted" ways to wire a toad: With the use of diodes (to prevent back feeding the toad's electrical system) and the toad's own rear lights. With a totally separate bulb installed in the toad's rear light fixtures. With magnetic or permanently installed totally separate light fixture. The advantage of the latter two is that there can be no question about vehicle warranty-- you did NOT cut into the toad's electrical system. Brett Wolfe

Fiberglass is one of the easiest materials to repair/reinforce. Look for shops that do fiberglass boat repair. They have a LOT of experience in cutting out damaged areas and building up systematically larger layers of glass and resin. They can even make it stronger than it was originally. It may also be something you do yourself. There are plenty of "how to" fiberglass sources. Here is one: West System Fiberglass Repair Brett Wolfe

Bob, Do NOT add 5 PSI except to the MINIMUM PSI from your tire manufacturers inflation chart BASED ON YOUR ACTUAL WEIGHT. Until you weigh it, go by the PSI recommendations on the GVWR plate by the driver's area. BUT, that could be 10 or more PSI different than what your actual weight calls for. This Michelin document makes good reading irrespective of what brand of tires you have: Michelin RV Tire Guide I am starting with tires, as over or under inflation can cause poor handling AND poor ride. So it is a good starting point. And one thing I will answer right up front. This question is often asked: If the manufacturer know that there were devices that would make handling or ride better, why aren't they on the coach to start with. Like all aspects of the RV, there are trade-offs between cost and benefits/features. Those same decisions are made on choices of interior fabrics, appliances, etc. What that means is that you CAN improve handling by spending money where, perhaps better (and more expensive) components are available. As far as sway, an after market heavier rear sway bar WILL help. A sway bar has NO effect on ride or handling as long as both wheel positions on an axle are on the same plane (i.e. they do not add to ride stiffness). BUT if one wheel drops in a hole or hits a bump, the sway bar will exert a LOT of force to keep the wheels in the same plane-- i.e. REDUCE SWAY. For one wheel to be on a different plane from the other, there will have to be enough force to momentarely bend the forged steel sway bar from its "rest position". Here is one example from Roadmaster Suspension solutions for your chassis: F53 Rear Sway Bar All RV's, to some degree exhibit loose or vague steering when compared with cars. But some of that can be controlled. One of the chief causes of this on a chassis with long leaf spring suspensions is the side to side "play" that can be induced in those long springs and spring shackles. Track bars (aka Panhard Rods) eliminate side to side play between chassis and axles while allowing full vertical travel. Check, but your 2006 will likely have a FRONT track bar standard from the factory. If not, one can be added. Aftermarket track bars are available for the rear. Brett Wolfe

I do have an electronic copy of the troubleshooting guide for the Freedom 458 as well as sources for the fuse if it is bad. I would be happy to e-mail it to you. Click on "Wolfe10" just above my photo. Click on "Send Message". Send me your e-mail address if you want these pdf documents. Brett Wolfe

Here is another P30 AutoPark discussion right here on the FMCA Forum with contact information for our resident expert. P30 AutoPark Thread Brett Wolfe

Please post what coach, what converter (if you know) etc-- there a LOT of different ways they can be wired. And for communication sake, you have a HOUSE battery and a CHASSIS battery. Do you have a mechanical or solenoid-based battery disconnect switch? Make sure it is ON. Brett Wolfe

You have a fuse on the incoming 120 VAC line. Have you checked that? Xantrex technical assistance: Tel: 408 987-6030On edit 8/10/13, the online owners manual link has changed-- thanks, Rich for finding this. Please see post this date below for current (at least it works as of this date) owners manual. When I go over to my coach this afternoon, I will see if I have a troubleshooting guide for your inverter/charger. Brett Wolfe

Bob, Let's start out by determining what you want to improve about your coach's ride and/or handling. There are some good aftermarket suspension devices out there, but none are a "Silver Bullet" . Areyou wanting to reduce side to side sway? Are you wanting to make steering more precise/reduce need to constantly correct with steering wheel, particularly in cross winds? Reduce porpoising? Soften ride? Other? And lets start with the basics: Have you weighed it-- individual wheel positions is best, axle weights as bare minimum? What are they and what are your GAWR (from plaque near driver's area)? Is your tire pressure based on your tire manufacturer's recommendation for your actual weight (plus perhaps 5 PSI as a safety reserve)? How many miles on it? The more information you post, the more FACTS we can give you and the less "infomercials" you will get. Brett Wolfe