campcop

You might also check M&G braking systems for towed vehicles. The towing package installed in your vehicle is probably for towing a trailer with your vehicle. You will most likely have to install a wiring system for your tail/ brake lights as well.

Some of these newer cars with the automatic parking brake cannot be towed where it locks when park. However there may be a work around if you can find and remove the fuse for that feature. I’d be very careful though. You might be able to leave it in a gear other than park. Hopefully your manual will address this.

Usually the connection at the antenna has corroded. When you disconnected the connections, did you make sure they were free of corrosion? Also sometimes replacing the line connector itself can solve the problem. When I installed the traveler on our present coach, I made sure the connections were clean and then used some dielectric grease on them, so far no problems.

Glad you’ll be back on the road.

I have valve extensions on my duals, they’re coming off when I change tires this fall. I had one lose air on a trip. Not fun trying to air up a completely flat tire in a campground at 7AM.

Personally, I’d go with 2 AWG.

You can try Google using Rv ecu repair. I pulled up a few sites. you can try e bay with the ecu number, might be able to get a used one. Not that I want to doubt your wiring but are you sure it’s wired correctly?

Our Bus does not have that safety catch, we have to throw the dead bolt when traveling. With door shut normally, is there any play in the door? Could be just a fatigue failure though. The piece looks like potted metal, not steel. I would imagine even with the door properly latched, with the movement of the coach body over the road, there is stress put on this latch when thrown.

Great..glad it worked out!

How close are you to a Cummins Service Center or authorized dealer? it could be a clogged DPF or a sensor, but the only way to tell is to put your coach on a analyzer. With luck you may be able to get a Mobil tech to scan for codes and if necessary, do a forced regen. as Elkhartjim said, it also could be a clogged filter causing the low rpm’s and check engine light and with only 11,000 miles on your coach, it could be clogged. But I don’t think that would throw a DPF light. There are several DPF icons, can you take a picture of the dash? Have you checked your onboard diagnostic screen on the dash for codes?

It sounds like the DPF needs to regen. If it starts does the idle jump up? If so, it’s in regen but it sounds like you’l have to force a regen which I think only a Cummins tech can do. Wish I could be of more help☹️

Do you have the manual for your jack system? You can download it at the LCI/ Lippert site. It will have trouble shooting guides. sounds like a defective valve or sensor.

What is the make of your hydraulic system? Is it HWH? Retracting jacks does not use hydraulic pressure but uses the springs on the jacks, or least my coaches have. Curious as to why your hydraulic pump is running, if that is what you’re referring to as being noisy.

Fantasy Tours runs a pretty good tour. Your wagon master will contact you well before the trip, he or she will be able to help you with your questions. You’ll also get a small decal for your MH letting them know you are a first timer and they’ll keep an eye on you. The staff and the rest of the tour group will always lend a helping hand. of course it’s always cheaper if you did the same route by yourself but is nice to know when and where you’ll be camping etc. The tour will also furnish an itinerary of your trip and any sights you would be interested in along the way. Enjoy your trip.

I would be surprised if you find a leak in the water lines seeing as there was no water pressure in the system. I would also check the trim pieces on the outside of the slide, if the caulking on these is bad, it will allow water intrusion. Here’s hoping you find the cause.

There is no water line under the bed. What area was wet? Was it the side facing the washing machine? The foot of the bed? Was the bed slide in or out? I suspect you have a water intrusion via one of the seals on the slide, especially if you had a driving rain. Is the slide closing all the way on both sides and top? suggest you put a dehumidifier and some heat in there to dry out the carpet before it gets moldy.

The odor you smell is common as well. It’s a combination of road grime and tire dust being burned off your engine and exhaust . I’ll get it for a few days if we tow for a week or more without using the Jeep.

A picture of your problem would help.

It’s been over a month since the OP posted, I guess he either fixed his problem or found an answer somewhere else.

You’ll need the make and model of the hydraulic system. It’s probably HWH but they make numerous models. If the solenoid is leaking at the base, it may just be the O ring which is easily replaced. HWH solenoids are screwed into the manifold.

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When we visited Glacier NP, we stayed first on the East side. Less crowded and easy access to the park. Once in the park we used the shuttles. Keep in mind that the Road to the Sun can be closed well into July depending on the snow pack. Again we used the shuttle, got off at the top, hiked a few hours and took another shuttle down. We did stay on the west side for a few days, very crowded and commercial.

Depends on if you plan on dry camping. If not the Costco batteries should be OK.

Does your RV have a valve marked Tank fill/ city water? If so this valve could be leaking.

I would suspect t the red wire you are finding sparking when trying to connect to the battery may be the feed wire to your inverter, thus the load on it. I don’t think your problem with the genset is connected.