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Blood sweat and tears. I use a small pry bar. I suspect you have OSB as a subfloor base- you will make a mess out of that, but there are ways to fix it.

We are looking at a Prevost Royale.

Wanderlodge was never a conversion.

Your only brakes are on drive axle- bad idea- serves no real purpose.

Never go to CW for anything.

Any experienced coach owner, after reading all the crap about camping world should never consider their services. I won't even venture on their property.

I suspect this has a Series 60 Detroit. Great engine- it will outlast everyone- love mine!

All parts for all Detroit engines are available. If safety is a concern, a Wanderlodge has steel sides, top and bottom . They are heavy, which equals massive build. Step in a Wanderlodge and it doesn't sway. Your money, your choice, pick what makes your wife happy.

No comparison - I had a C once- now on my 4th Wanderlodge Attend the rally in October in Pine Mountain, Ga for a chance to see 125 Bluebirds.

I always add a piece of plywood to extend the slide past the ramps on the main floor. I use a BASF adhesive and allow to set over night. There are no moisture issues with engineered wood. Have that in my coach, home and hundreds of other coaches I have done. Make sure you sand the back of the stair nose to get the glossy finish off or the piece will not stick.

Go to Home Dept and get a gallon of urethane adhesive by Roberts. Use the proper trowel and butter the back of the engineered wood, after you have dry fit/cut them

What kind of coach?

I have had 3 Detroit Diesel engines in 3 different coaches. The best one is the Series 60. It is a 4 stroke, whereas the 6v92, 8v92 were 2 stroke and required specific weight oil.

In the last 3 weeks, I have removed 2 of those-- very heavy and they fit thru the door as we already had the co pilot chair removed, step well slide cover extended and outside steps retracted. It slid right thru the door-- barely! Mine is coming out when I get some free time.

I went to the FMCA rally in Madison 3 years ago. I adhere all my engineered wood. I'm old school and I cut the wood tight against the walls, cabinets, etc. Rock solid and does not sound hollow when you walk on it.

I usually cut the carpet about an inch away from the slide. This way when you start pulling, you don't have that much material to pull on. I never adjust any slide on any coach I add flooring to. Yes, you can run the flooring to the firewall. If you have a black collar around your steering column made of plastic, you can remove that. There you will see a grease zert in the knuckle- you can shoot a little grease in that while you have this apart. Does the bed base move when slide is retracted? If not, I bet the carpet is just installed against that base. Go slow. I see you have the same hair color as me- so going fast is not in the cards anymore.

You can install the vinyl planks up to the edge of main floor. I give folks extra pieces of planks to lay under the slide and let the slide come in on top of them. After slide is extended, you can store them under the couch

You need the floor at a minimum of 60 degrees. Measure with an IR thermometer.

First, remove all the old material and clean the floor good. Lay a piece of new material by the slide. Operate the slide and see how the slide comes up and over that piece. Tell us what you find

6 mpg is about right for the 8v92. my series 60 gets about 6.6 mpg at 50,000 pounds

How do the grout lines match up?

2003 VW Bug, manual tranny. Put tranny in neutral, turn key to first click, hook up and go. Easiest vehicle I have had to tow. Bought a Lexus and will be setting that up to tow, also.

Phil, with the urethane adhesive, removing the floor, you would be better off trading your coach and get another one. That is some tough adhesive.

Mineral spirits and lacquer thinner are what I use on a new white rag.

Urethane adhesive is a little messy, but the end result will be a rock solid floor.