RVerOnTheMove

Generally, when you buy new batteries they will already have a pretty good charge on them. Assuming the charger in the RV is working properly and putting out 13+V to your batteries you should be able to install them and let the charge do its work. Hopefully, you have a multi-stage charger and it will charge quickly, cut back the voltage a bit and then do a float charge to keep them topped off.

While it is simple it's not the reality. I have used the CAT scales to do as I have described with a motor home and I don't know why it should be any different with a Class C. I would go in and talk to the clerk at the desk and explain what it is that you need to accomplish before you get started.

Batteries can be loaded tested in any location as long as they are disconnected from each other and from any other load (+ and - cables disconnected). If you can take them in and charge them with a 6V charger separately that would be best as the batteries must be fully charged in order to do a proper load test. If a battery will not properly charge you are done and the battery needs replacing.

While not as good as getting a 4-point weighing, you may be able to get on a set of scales where you can weight the front and rear axles and then by adjusting a bit to the right or left, weigh the left and/or right side and subtract the difference. You really need to know if one side of the coach is heavier than the other as the inflation tables are based upon the heaviest weight on any tire on the axle.

If you are going to use a 12V charger, I would just disconnect the + and - connections that go to the coach, leave the center jumper and connect the charger to the posts you just disconnected. This will isolate the batteries and allow them to at least attempt a charge. If you think the coach will need to have 12V power while you are doing this then you would want to unplug or disconnect the converter and leave all of the battery cables connected. I suspect that you are going to find that one battery is good and one is bad based upon one of your earlier posts so you may want to take them to a local battery store and have them load tested. If you find you have to replace one, you really need to replace both. Something like this 225AH battery would be a good choice. http://www.ebay.com/...ain_100&vxp=mtr So others (cheaper and not) can be found here: http://www.google.com/products/catalog?hl=en&rls=com.microsoft:en-us:IE-Address&q=trojan+t105+battery&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_cp.r_qf.,cf.osb&biw=1171&bih=572&wrapid=tlif134023832826510&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=14829542272397574964&sa=X&ei=6WniT-qQBeKC2wXIg5ncCw&ved=0CJUBEPMCMAM#scoring=tp

Please don't take anything post here by anyone as an indication that we think anything you have said or done is foolish. Learning is a process and we are all willing to help you learn. Once you are done learning about batteries there will be something else and then something else and then......

If you were measuring each batteries voltage they would read somewhere around 6.6V if fully charged. Since you are measuring the 2 together as one bank then the voltage is read only on the + post on one battery and the - post on the other battery.

If the coach has leveling jacks, they are there so you don't need to use leveling boards under your tires. You will just need a good hunk of wood or other material under the jacks if you are on soft soil or asphalt to avoid sinking in. If you can't get level using just the jacks I would suggest moving to a more level site.

I had the same thing happen to me but I was stopped at a traffic light in the middle of Indio, CA. Stupidity is not limited to tunnel travel. I made the trip many times in my RV without incident. I would not by-pass this route if it is the most logical path. As I recall they have started charging double in one direction and nothing in the other so if you are headed the wrong way with no expectation of returning the toll is going to hurt!

The "Via" part is important. Since the Hoover Dam is not "on the way" to any of your destinations, adding that option into your travels changes a lot. Hoover Dam adds about 200 miles to the trip but makes the driving pretty much pre-determined. You will drop back down to 40 and take 93 up to Vegas. You can't see a dang thing driving by on the new bridge so you will need to plan a stop here. From there it's up 15N and the appropriate detours to hit Zion and Bryce. You will get back on 15N until you get to Idaho Falls where you will follow US20 into West Yellowstone. You can stay there at Grizzly RV park and explore or you can do some there, do some from Fishing Bridge and some from the RV park up near the N entrance. If you don't mind dry camping there are several parks inside and I would recommend this over any option outside the park. Fishing Bridge is my choice if you need hookups and you can explore the entire park from there but you will need to start early and finish late as there will be a lot of driving.

Sorry, there is no picture so I just don't understand. Circuit City has been gone for many years. I was not aware of any still being open anywhere and their own website says that their are no stores. From Wikipedia: Circuit City Stores, Inc. (former NYSE ticker symbol CC) was an American retailer in brand-name consumer electronics, personal computers, entertainment software, and (until 2000) large appliances. The company opened its first store in 1949 and pioneered the electronics superstore format in the 1970s.[1] Circuit City liquidated its final American retail store in 2009 following a bankruptcy filing and subsequent failure to find a buyer.

OK, so now we know that Circuit City stores no longer exists. What we don't know is what in the World Dandiamold is trying to say.

Could you explain just a bit further? Here's information from the Circuit City website............. CircuitCity.com is Back But what about the stores? We know that our recent acquisition of the CircuitCity.com brand has caused some confusion. Many of our customers are wondering what happened to the Circuit City stores. Currently, there are no Circuit City stores. However, if you’re looking for the very best online shopping destination, you’ve found it – CircuitCity.com.

The math comes out to where a HH fridge uses very little electricitiy no matter the numbers. The average 20-21cf side-by-side HH fridge (current models, energy star) uses about 500kWh per year (about $60/year). If that means the fridge uses 500000 watts per year, that's 1370 watts per day or 57 watts per hour. If it runs half the time and is idle half the time that would means it uses about 120 watts while running or 1 amps AC.

Not me! I hope to move from 40' to 45' if my budget ever allows!

The stories of RV damage on the Alcan as well as the rest of the trip are well documented. Very good friends of ours took the trip and when they returned they had replaced their fan belt(s) and their towed had had all of the paint "sanded" off the front. Not everyone gets lots of damage but most everyone reports some amount. It's also possible to get some amount of damage driving from FL to TX so you have to take some of the reports with a grain of salt. The reality is that the roads are NOT smooth and much is not paved roads as we are familiar with in the lower 48 (or Canada) and you simply must take lots and lots of time to get from point A to point B. If you do not, you will pay for it.

If you use a voltage meter plugged into an outlet are you seeing the correct voltage or are you seeing the same readings that the monitor shows?

117V is great power so that's not the issue. If it is a Wal-Mart branded Mr. Coffee, then it was junk to start with (according to the Wal-Mart employees) and we burned up 2 of them while on inverter. No other coffee maker has had any similar issues.

It's illegal in many States so be buyer beware is really in effect here.

That's WAY better than the turbo being blown. Please don't ask me how I know!!!!!

Yep, really! That's why God created the lowest from of life known to the Planet Earth. Lawyers. Oh stop it! It's a joke! (somewhat).

I have had the exact experience that Brett has had. We skip the port town unless there is something like the Lumberjack experience in Ketchikan. Yes, it's a tourist trap, but it was a lot of fun. We had great train trips, glacier viewing, whale watching, eagle viewing, bear encounters, and relaxing in the bar with the World's greatest views. We never drove (and likely never will due to time constraints) to AK so I cannot comment on that side of the equation but I have spoken to so many folks who have had an enormous amount of damage from start to finish that I am not sure I would drive even if I could.

That looks a lot like one of these. http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&_trksid=p4340.l2557&item=250808064587&nma=true&rt=nc&si=SXubM5%252F6AvuVTTk6TcjqiX9gCIk%253D&vxp=mtr&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc

I suspect that the answers will be all over the place. You can expect some damage to your vehicle (some say no, but most say yes). I would say that most motor homes are towing as you need some way to explore. A smaller unit like a Trek or similar likely does not tow. Right now a bunch of people are stuck in Watson Lake, YT due to multiple road closures ahead of them. Not sure what time of year the trip is but you might want to look at the weather for that time of year. The best planning can still go bad but the have a lot of experience making this trip.

If they put pink engine anti-freeze instead of the RV water system anti-freeze, you are in big trouble! Does it have an oily feel? You might need to find out more about what they did as you may have to have some major work done on your system if they made that kind of mistake. I sure hope that's not what happened! Let us know what you find out.