BillAdams

It sounds like you are asking about leaving the electric element running 24/7. If so, yes, you can just let it run, keep the propane off and use all the hot water you need.

I tried to post about AT&T, the Mobley and the unlimited $20/month service in the past but things went sideways and I deleted the topic. If anyone is interested, I am still seeing very good service here in Houston, TX.

If there's no picture to prove it, it's not straight!

Wow! Clearly not labeling this switch makes complete sense!

Call right away! The are likely sending you the wrong receiver. I doubt they will send you a D12 (they are ending SD broadcasts at some point in the future) but and H24 or HR24 (DVR) should work just fine.

I get the concept, just chose to go another direction for now. Thanks for all of your help. I will just keep the 20 amp input for now to try to eliminate where the issue might have been before jumping it with both feet.

So, I looked at converting the 2 existing breakers with 4 - 20 amp 120V outputs to 2 - 20 amp 240V outputs. In thinking about this, it was not an option as I would either have to abandon 2 20 circuits (possible but not willing to work my way through this) to use the 2 available outputs on opposite legs. So, what now? I could have tapped directly into the main transfer switch with some 10 gauge wire and run a true 4 wire setup to the inverter Hot 1, Hot 2, Neutral and ground connection but this would not have any kind of breaker in place other than the 50 amp breaker on the power pole. I may come back to that option in the future but I decided to go backward and try to make the most simple, but least useful, option to see if I can keep the inverter/charger functional for more than a few months. So, I now have a single 20 amp 3 wires setup running to the inverter. That means that the charger and the 120V pass-through will share a max. of 20 amps. I have turned the 150 amp battery charger down to 100 amp (standard in my 2000W inverter) but this can be turned way down or turned off entirely if necessary after a long days travel. With only a single 3 wire input I only have a single 3 wire output but I have 3 individual circuits that this 1 output needs to power. None of these circuits use a lot of amps so unless we are running the convection oven I doubt the 3 circuits combined would ever draw more than 20 amps. This is based on our previous experience with these same 3 circuits that were used successfully with our old Heart 458 MSW inverter. So while this inverter allows for 2 inputs and 2 outputs, it appears that using only 1 input limits you to the use of 1 output and that's what I have wired up. I hope you can picture how my outputs are wired but here's my best explanation. I have taken 2 of the 3 - 3 wire runs and twisted the 2 hots and the 2 neutrals together and placed them into the one output slot labeled L1 (line 1) and N1 (Neutral 1). One of those 2 lines then run to a coupler that connects the 3rd circuit into this setup. If I understand correctly what I have done, this basically ties all 3 circuits into the one output (30 amp max inverter circuit breaker but limited by the 20 amp circuit from the breaker box). Keep in mind that the problem that seems to kill the inverter is something called A/C feedback. If nothing I have done here should cause any A/C feedback then I should be good to go. I still don't understand what A/C feedback means or where it might come from to cause a problem but I am hopeful that this will resolve that issue. If it does, my next project will be to find the right way to feed 240V to the inverter and use output 1 and output 2 to power the necessary circuits PLUS the 150 amp battery charger.

I reinstalled and rewired everything today with my inverter. I will do an update on that thread soon. Wish me luck!

FMCA has allowed trailers and 5th wheels at previous rallies. It was pretty easy to deal with. FMCA simply segregated them in a separate area that allowed easy in and out. That, of course, was also one of the biggest problems. You have motorhomes over here and trailers over there. I seemed to me that this was worse than doing nothing. No seminars for the trailer folks, no vendors and no manufacturer support either. If you own a trailer and you were considering moving to a motorhome then you were in a pretty good place. Otherwise, you were pretty much the red headed step child.

I did not realize the clicking sound was elsewhere. That changes things. It's definitely not satellite antenna related as you already know. Strange.

Yes, it should work just fine with DirecTV. Just be sure to set the receiver to (repeat satellite setup) to #1 18" round and the switch type to Multi-switch (not SWM). King Dome will likely tell you the antenna will not work due to changes made by Dish Network but most users are not having issues. You do not say what year (how old) the antenna is and whether it has a digital display allowing satellite changes but I will assume it's not too old and you do have that digital control box. You also cannot use a Genie receiver HR24,44,54 or the H25 stand alone receiver. H24 or lower or the D12 SD receivers should work.

So are you saying yes, I can remove the 2 120V breakers and install a 230V breaker and use the existing wiring to create the 4 wire run to the inverter. This would be very easy to accomplish.

It might actually be the on/off switch for the OTA/Cable power. I have seen this done on a few coaches in the past and since that's where it is located you might see if it effects your TV signal when toggled the other way. This can best be tested with the antenna down and see if channels appear or disappear when the switch is toggled.

Oh contraire, I loved the Corn Palace. There actually was something there! What did you find to be so great at Wall Drugs? I really didn't need any more ice water so I ate lunch and moved on to some "actual" attractions like the BadLands!

We parked our RV there but I don't remember exactly where. It was easy to find and easy to get around. It only took a few minutes to realize that we had been conned into stopping to visit a place no one needs to visit so we got something to eat and moved on. The Wall Drug claim to fame is that when they started their business the Interstate highway system was being built and cars were passing them by. The put a sign out on the highway that "free ice water" was available at this exit. Free ice water is still available and that's about all!

I have no idea what the original thread did or did not say but I would vote NO, no towables in FMCA. Doing so just makes FMCA "another" Good Sam business.

I have not had converters or a stand-alone inverter for about 15 years. I removed all of that and installed a Heart 458 MSW inverter/charger and it worked great for about 12-13 years. I then decided to upgrade to a TSW inverter a few years back and it worked fine as well for awhile. When the transfer switch (secondary to the main transfer switch with no delay set as it only switches between the inverter or power coming from the primary transfer switch which has the generator delay). This is the information on the new transfer switch. It assumes input from 2 hots 1 neutral and 1 ground but the wiring would only be 1 hot, 1 neutral and 1 ground from either the shore power or from the inverter. I would put the shore power on the generator circuit so it would be primary and the inverter on the shore power circuit. I was able to eliminate any delay by adding a jumper on the circuit board per directions from the manufacturer. I have not installed any of this yet. It still seems to me that a transfer switch should not be necessary and I don't see how/why the transfer switch installation would eliminate an A/C feedback issue that would exist if the transfer switch was not used. It is an A/C feedback issue that the inverter manufacturer says caused the inverter to fail.

OK, that sounds interesting. Can I replace the 2 20 amp breakers in the breaker box (this are side by side) with 1 230 V 20 amp. breaker (double pole) 20 amp (the wiring is for a 20 amp circuit) as I am OK with only 20 and can't run new wiring 30+ feet from the breaker to the inverter. I will have to look at the wiring from a 230 V breaker as I will have 6 wires available from the 2 existing circuits but I assume would only use 4 of them at the inverter (2 hot, 1 neutral, 1 ground). Let me know if I sound like I have a clue what I am talking about or if I should just go back to 1 20amp input and just return to managing the charging circuit (the reason for a 2nd hot) when we are running the convection oven.

If you want an app that will show you where all the Pilot / Flying J stations are located then this certainly would be the best app. However, if you are looking for the best prices, Pilot / Flying J is likely the MOST expensive fueling option you can find. Expensive is not always bad when you consider what might happen if you try to get in and out of a station with cheap fuel but not room for a big rig. You just have to use good judgement (and Google Earth) to find cheap gas at a station designed to handle an RV of your size. If you ONLY use the Pilot / Flying J app you will always pay too much. I prefer to only pay too much when absolutely necessary.

I am sorry but I don't understand what you are suggesting here.

I don't want/need a three relay transfer switch as you show. That's what I already have for the incoming 50 amp service. This is a 2nd transfer switch used only for the inverter and 2 dedicated inverted only power lines. When there is power the A/C passes through the inverter to those lines and when there is no 120V incoming power the inverter powers these lines. In theory, no transfer switch would be required. That's the part that so puzzling about this whole setup. The original setup included the transfer switch as I suspect the original inverter (only) did not have a pass through function. I just let the transfer switch in place for all of these years until the transfer switch failed and there was no replacement immediately available.

Gasbuddy! However, price is not THE reason to visit a particular station. Will you be able to get in and out? Is the fuel fresh? (Very important). I am a big fan of Pilot/Flying J but since they merged their pricing has skyrocketed. Today I try to find anything else but the options are so slim that I usually have to just suck it up and go despite the higher price. Recently in the Houston, TX area we were able to stop at a Buckee's and the diesel was $2.19 and Flying J at the next exit was $2.69. The Buckee's pump cut off at $150 so I had to use a different credit card and start the pump a 2nd time but it was worth the savings. So many "cheap" diesel locations have no provisions of any kind for an RV, much less a large RV or an RV with a toad. Depending upon where you travel you also need to be aware that there are prices and then there are prices. In OR the price on the sign is "with PUC" and you don't have a PUC so what you see you need to add .30/gallon as that's what us non-commercial folks will pay. IN is another with pricing differences and AZ is a State with there is a discount for diesel if you are not commercial. It will take some time to work it all out but you will get it and life will be good (even if you didn't get the best price)! LIfe if good. Fuel is required for our good life. Don't let a few dollars get in the way of that fact.

This is/was how the original transfer switch was setup except that the power sources were inverter and shore/generator from the main transfer switch. The panel connections would be the shore/generator (priority) and the generator connection would be inverter (operates only when the other source of power is not available). Time delay set to zero so you have instant transfer to inverter power any time no other power source is available.

I love helpful advice. Thanks, Carl!

There was a stand along inverter plus 2 - 75 amp stand alone converters. I changed this all out many years ago (10+) with a Heart MSW inverter and a single 20 amp circuit from the breaker box but the transfer switch remained in place. Everything worked great for many years and I later upgraded to a PSW inverter which also worked great for many years. My transfer switch died and I was advised that it was no longer necessary and that I could remove it and use the inverters built-in transfer switch instead. This is also when I decided to bring in 240V via a 2nd 20 amp circuit from the breaker box so I have 2 changes that took place at the same time. Everything works (worked) fine for months and then died for no apparent reason and while still plugged into campground power. The new inverter should arrive Monday and I will either set it up with a single 20 amp (120V) line or a 4 wire line out of the main transfer switch. I have a new transfer switch but it's not like the old one and I have concerns that I could have similar issues trying to use it.