ticat900

I believe this is misconceived or misstated statement "that the Insurance Company has any right to the "original Manufacturers" cost.." I believe as I said earlier is the Insurance company wants to see the "VENDER" cost not the "manufacturers" cost. If in fact it was the manufacturers cost then I have no comment as its a ridiculous request and of one I have never heard of before and on top of that how would the Vendor ever get a copy of the manufacturers cost???

Lights are not run by any computer. Tapping into 2013 tails light and using diodes works perfectly well whether LED or standard bulbs. I have done both.

JIM All I did was suggest this may be there policy, as I use to deal with ICBC in BC Canada and this was their policy. I agree they must be upfront with this requirement. However its well known that lots of shops want to charge way more for a job than its worth just because there is a insurance company involved. I am not sure how you can agree with me or disagree at this point as its the insurance company's right to request these invoices "IF" the shop is told upfront. I have no knowledge as to what happened. But for you to say they have no right? You're wrong as long as its disclosed upfront.

Depends as on mine the house - and the chassis - are two separate cables but as in my first post, check both sides of chassis connections and or the main chassis shut down switch system has to be one of these 3 things.

Wolfe, The OP clearly says: " No dash lights, no head lights, nothing that I can find on the chassis has power" therefore I fully suspect the main battery power feed cable failed or the main battery ground cable failed. Possible there is a main power distribution cut off relay that nay have failed. I would be looking at one of these 3 things. I personally have had a battery short internally and have same result but not sure if that would be the same result on a dual battery set up like the pushers have.

Not sure if you read my reply or not BUT I found on my unit plugging into 15 amp service before my ATS would enage properly (was getting the clicking) I had to make sure fridge was off and no other loads were on.I also had to make sure the batteries were charged up and then I could plug in and have the 15 AMP work OK for keeping the batteries charged up and use lite,run slides etc.I found if my batteries(4) were too low the inverter/charger draws more than 15 amps and the ATS will not engage. Now I realize this does not cause your 50 amp breaker to blow.That as I said is a power cord problem or ATS problem. I had my wires come lose at the ATS switch one time and things worked rather poorly.How was your buying experience with MHSRV? Mine was awful.I found the sales people to be complete and utter liars.

BUT the guy said he" must" turn it off while on SP he's not talking about if he loses SP he talking while on SP like you are. Two different things between what your saying and what I was responding to.

I disagree.The insurance companys sometimes will only pay a say(eg) 20% markup.They want to see the RV center cost invoices so they know there not being ripped off as most RV repair shops always overcharge insurance companies and in the end we all pay for it in increased rates.If this RV repair shop was honest they would simply comply as to get paid and get the customer on their way.

You most definitely have a problem in the SP service cord and/or ATS.The 120V/20 amp could also be a indication but not for sure.The amount of draw because of what you may have drawing power in the MH as soon as you plug in may cause the 20 amp problem BUT the 50 amp problem is for sure the power cord and or the ATS system.

I doubt this is correct as when on shore power even if your inverter is on it wont effect your heater as it by passes the invertion mode .I always turn off my inverter when on SP because if iam away for the day and the SP fails the inverter kicks in and will kill the batterys pretty quick with all my stuff running that I have on all the time such as fridge and freezer plus computer etc

There is zero difference in finding (eg)sat 119 verses (eg)sat 101 etc no matter Dish or direct and if you were to want HD it requires 2 sats no matter Dish or Direct.

OP has no shore power so your idea wont fly too well the way I see things

I don't understand your reply as the op simply asked" Can I simply remove the negative post connection on the engine batteries to stop the batteries from going dead?" He never asked for a battery recommendation and he already knows he has parasitic loads.

I have never ever in 40 years of winterizing RV,s had the "pink stuff" clog the system and a simple full water flush usually eliminates the taste/small odor. Pink stuff is non toxic.

Correct. I can go 6-8 days on grey and 7-8 on black. I have 75 grey and 45 black.

TOTALLY DIFFERENT situation.Your problem is 12 Volt and the OP problem is 120V system

My last one went 8 years and 44K miles and still looked like new. They should last for years and 100+K miles.

What does this mean? The batteries are on flow charging?

Its liability insurance that's important.It Protects you against big lawsuits if your at fault. Have at least 1 million or more (I carry three). It is designed to cover 3rd party claims if you have a accident and your found at fault and if there is injury involved you will be sued etc. People in the US sue if their coffees too hot so be aware. Comprehensive is also important if you want to be insured if it catches fire or is stolen etc, Collision coverage covers your own vehicle damage if your at fault for the accident or it is no ones fault (EG) you fall asleep and crash. Also buy uninsured motorist protection cause there are too many maniacs driving around with no insurance and no money so suing them is useless.

Where in BC? It's a very vast land mass-- 365,000 square miles. Weather is dry and hot then. Gas will kill you-- 6.5 MPG @ $4.75/US gallon Hy#1 is the main route from Vancouver to Halifax.

He never complained about what you're describing. He said it gets hard to turn to the right about 1/2 way and then finishes going all the way right.

this is really confusing and hard to believe.U say that you lost all power but the fridge and Micro will work if u turn on the inverter.Correct? Plus u say no power to nothing else because u plugged in too many things? then U must have blown the main 50 amp breaker because your AC has NOTHING to do with an inverter I don't think your explaining the situation properly !) how do u know u plugged in too many things 2) if its just a GFI which is normally what happens the AC and 120V hot water should still work. In a nut shell if u lost "everything" as u claim then it sounds like main 50amp breaker because "everything" does not go through inverter system so if it was as simple as inverter reset button or reset GFI the AC+ hot water etc would have never lost power

First off you say quote: "Board shows shore power coming into coach but no power, but then you say no power to fridge or micro? Which is it-- NO POWER or just no power to these 2 items? BIG BIG difference. If it's the second claim then you need to push the little reset button on the Inverter that feeds these 2 items.

I don't see your problem. You have a single cable coming into the TV and that is what you use for either cable or roof antenna. You obviously know how to switch your TV via remote for either cable or antenna so just hook it up as required IN cable and out to TV. I don't see your problem?