ticat900

$4,000 to put a rhino type coating on the RV roof is a out and out rip-off, especially if you have the correct new style fiberglass roof that most all decent Class A motorhome have nowadays. If your roof has been kept sealed correctly and kept up there is no reason in this world to coat it with this stuff.

Nope, can't imagine any driver being that blind. There is only 4-5 feet between TOAD and back of MH. Now I can see an idiot maybe clipping the TOAD trying to squeeze between TOAD and vehicle immediately following you, especially if trying to pass, running out of time and trying to get back into the lane.

Now I will agree a Diesel Pusher Tiffin bus as u say u have is a far cry from from a gasser unit for sure BUT its also new to new $175K more to buy AND A bus only gets 8MPG average so even if your gasser got 6.5 or 7 based on gas being at least 60 cents agallon cheaper its pretty hard to say your saving any fuel money at all like NONE. So, really what are u saying?? No doubt there is no comparison in ride,road noise,storage,power,quality of build etc but there is no fuel cost saving at all NONE

10 seconds is plenty of stop time. However if you only saw it yellow at the time your brain decided to say stop it would be too late. If it turned yellow as you entered the intersection you would not get a ticket. It had to be red while you were in the intersection.

The breaker may be the same circuit your inverter/charger is on. BUT your heater has its own sub-switch so in reality should not matter as long as HW is switched off. The chatter coming from the inverter/charger now that we understand the situation in that the chatter quits because in fact you have turned off the inverter/charger, kind of indicates your inverter/charger is defective as long as the story told is accurate.

You yourself told us "just to be sure it was off I flipped the 120V breaker for the hot water heater and the clicking stopped. When I flipped the hot water heater breaker back on the clicking started again." So, you answered your own question plus we already told you that you can not run a 120V water heater and your Inverter system on 15 amps. Why your hot water heater is on even when you switch it off as you ascertain is a seprerate problem.For now leave the breaker off. Of course you can charge your batteries on a 15 amp system. I never suggested you could not. I said if your batteries are dead or low your Inverter/converter may try to draw more than the 15 amp line will allow. Wolfe already told you to see if you can turn down the converter charger draw. Did you do that? What I suggested is bring the batteries up to snuff with a regular charger and then plug in the MH to 15 amp circuit leave the WH breaker off and the gas shut off. Once the batteries are charged and you have no draws on system the 15 amp plug will easily run the inverter/charger and keep your batteries charged.

Wolfe, I ran into the same problem(similar) on my Allegro bus. Its not the inverter/charger that's at fault. Its the fact that with the inverter- charger start up draw is fairly high,now add more draw if the batteries are low and the charger kicks in at the same time as the hot water element starts up. 15amp input is way way less than required so hence the problem. My inverter did not make the clicking noise but in my case my ATS was sounding the same as the Op described and the result was the same and the fix was similar.

You just answered your own question? U said once u shut off the heavy power draw it quit clicking?exactly what I told u was the problem. why could your RV repair guy not figure that out? Just because you got antifreeze in the HWT does not mean you need to immediately flush it out. Its no big deal and hurts nothing. I don't get any connection between your HW breaker and your charge light not lighting up either.

Not much of a RV repair shop if what you said is exactly what happened (they said did not know whats up?). I have found that a lot of times depending what breakers are on and State of house battery charge is at.low battery charge high draw rate. This will happen when trying to use 15 amp.The draw is more than the 15 amp line is able to supply therefore most likely kicking INVERTER/CHARGER ON/OFF ON/OFF. Try making sure there are no high power draws and batteries are charged up.Then retry the 15 amp plug. make sure if using a extention cord as short as possible and #10 preferably 15 amp is only good for lite charging, lites low draw things of any nature. Not hot water or 1200 series fridges etc. I bet it works properly

Why would you do that?-- makes no sense to me. Simply plug device into a different GFI protected circuit. If that one blows, its the device demand causing problem (assuming your not simply overloading circuit). If the GFI is OK and does not blow its most likely a weak/sensitive GFI. Using a store to experiment is unethical in my opinion.

He never said he needed one. He simply asked "Does anyone have any experience with this product?" $400.00 is actually laughable. I can't believe people actually fall for stuff like this.

Never heard of backing up-- would seem wrong to me. Always put in neutral then hook up and then pull forward very tenderly.Tow bar should always fully extend equally and lock in place.Done this for years and always works without any hiccups. I have seen where the lock springs are weak and the bar does not lock properly though.

The OP was talking 2014 GM truck. Did not realize you talking about German cars.? there are no connections so why post? Neither one has absolutely any co- relation. Some people tow for hours on end which results in dead batteries.Happens all the time that's why we use charge wires plus its inconvenient to have to manually unlock door, open hood, hook up battery ,reset clock etc etc etc but I have no knowledge of German cars and the OP was asking about GM 4x4? As said two entirely different vehicles and manufacturers.

NORMALLY on previous years If you left the key in the run position for some unknown reason it has NO bearing at all on the drive train. It may record mileage.The reason of the charge wire is rather evident if one understands the situation. Battery left connected requires no ECM relearn or resetting of radio stations,clocks etc. However there are some excerpts from the bulletin that will need some clarification. Now that I read the bulletin it almost seems there is maybe a electric activated column? or electronic steer lock or? 1)Depower the vehicle by removing the negative cable at the battery. This procedure must be followed or the steering column could be damaged. 2)If power is provided by accidental contact of the cable and terminals, damage to the towed vehicle may result, which would not be covered under the New Vehicle Limited Warranty. I went and did quick crash course on a 2014 GM pickup 4x4 and I think GM just decided there was just too many electronics that are battery powered and too many things that may or may not be effected towing with key on etc so they decided the best idea was to simply kill the power

OP is talking 2014 with electric steering and he is also talking 4x4 so not sure why you mentioned drive shaft disconnect? No one is going to taking apart a brand new steering assembly to remove a steering lock.Until the OP replies we don't know why he is worried about the battery because its a 10 minute job to run a charge wire. I will assume he has steering lock or there would be no reason to leave key on acc.Now I have 2008 Silverado 4x4 and it does not have a acc position so this is something new.

That's an extremely easy thing to do but,why does it have to be left in accessory?? Does the steering lock if not? I ran a charge wire to my unit because I had to leave the acc on to unlock the steering wheel.

Rich, I was a very successful master mechanic for 40+ years.I know how q-jets work and their little quirks. I fixed them by the hundreds the electric fuel control ones were not that common on cars and light trucks. Then in 1988, the TBI systems started. However the OP problem in my opinion is more than likely bad plug wire or shorted plug wire or bad boot On a side note I use to throw away the late qjets and install a carter 625AFB or a spread bore holly. I must add that I only did this on ESC systems.I never did a ECM controlled fuel valve Qjet system.

Ok now your saying you base your set up on cell phone compass readings?? I have never seen or heard of that(learn something every day) I would have to say you have answered your own question. I use the built in signal finder as the best method on roof mounts or you can insert a signal meter and then fine tune using receiver signals

What difference if automatic or not.OP knows how to get signal? Using same dish and same receiver you do not need to reset the receiver as the settings do not change in the same RV 40 miles apart The only thing I can say is he was in a area(setting) that had a weak or no signal available. all it takes is a tree branch and it wont work been there and done that.

Your Subject Heading about backfire and your post indicating about a bad bog or hesitation. You are complaining about 2 different problems here?

Engines do not run rich due to "dirt" in the carburetor and if it was running rich this would not cause a back fire while hot and under load 99% of the time a backfire while hot and under load will be a bad plug wire or a shorting to ground plug wire(burnt though or bad boot).

I am thinking of buying and installing the Bus Kote roof coating, Has anyone out there done theirs and is it worth doing? I know it helps for reflecting sun heat but are there other benefits?such as ? Thanks

I was looking at a Honda but Grand Vitara Suzuki as I said earlier is as good or better quality and when I looked NEW to NEW GVS was 7K cheaper comparing options to options as close as I could on no trade cash deal. I like the 7K in my jeans. Had I known they were leaving the car market I may not have bought one but after 24K I am happy we did.

Read previous posts of Dickandlois This system will work for him if he is just doing the lock/unlock deal--just have to retrofit is all.