ticat900

MY POINT WAS and IS simply this: Don't just simply go out and buy a Phaeton 42tag based on a budget of 150K max because there are MANY better units out there for the same value / spending limit you have set for your selves.

I have heard the hi temp shut down sensor that NORCOLD has dealers install has given some people trouble but(touch wood) I have not. I always leave mine on 5 and seems to cool fine. I am talking mid 70 temps though( right now). I have their "rev d" on mine and no problems after 3 winters down south.The mod is easy to bypass if need be though. anyhow my post was suggesting use of bottom fans as I have as it really helps

I read a lot of storys about the failings of the 1200/10 Norcold fridge and I am on my third unit over 7 years and luckily (I guess) have never had a problem. People yap about fans and poor cooling in warmer weather etc. Here's a tip for anyone interested: I leave two small fans at the lower rear fridge vent similar to the upper front window defrost fans seen in pusher A,s etc and I leave my 1210 on # 5 and its cools very well thru thick and thin.

If u go to motorhome specialist of texas be Very carefull and do not deal with a sales guy called cowboy.he will lead u down the garden path because of your lack of knowledge. just fair warning Iam not saying don't buy a Tiffin I just want the OP to be aware of whats out there and reasons some are better than others I own a 08 allegro bus and know tiffin products inside and out and the tiffin in their price range will have problems The beaver in my opinion was one of the best built coaches in 2006 era. there is no comparison between the two when you shine them side by side (eg) 2007 tiffin pheaton verses a 2005/2006 beaver PT or marquis all that being said all units will have failures along the road one thing or another

Location of the breaker will not allow for a bigger breaker?thats not true as A 40 or 50 or 60 etc were all the same physical size (or extremely close).

At a budget of 150K(max) I would suggest looking at slightly older upper end models of Beaver, Newmar, Country Coach, Monaco or Holiday Rambler. Now that said you will have to go a couple years older than a Tiffin Phaeton priced at 150K. What I am saying is you can buy a (for a example) 2005 -06 Beaver Patriot Thunder for 150K which is 3 times the MH a 2008 Phaeton would ever hope to be. Also 20K or 35K or 50 on these upper end units makes no difference on a unit as well build and anointed as a upper end Beaver (example) same with Country Coach, etc. 2006 Beaver PT 43 tag on RV trader with ask of $155K. This unit blows a 2011 Phaeton out of the water quality wise.

What??? KOA never bought the service center from Lazy Days?? what a surprise (not). I like KOA not bad for price and usually decent place to stay.

Pretty expensive for what you get. Pushers are a lot nicer and better priced. But depends if you like the truck front style etc. Different strokes for different folks as they say.

Yes, Herman what I had previously suggested.

If you can't tape the split area and tie it in a position where it wont kink then I suggest you cut the cable and install a junction box and then a new longer one as required with conduit wire from junction box to gen set.

Look at the part numbers on the lens. A lot of them are TYC 20-XXXX. Enter that in your " puter" and you will see what they fit. Most can be bought on Amazon.com for under $200 per lite assembly.

Whatever works for you. Its your MH and your project. I have seen hundreds of trailers and MH sit through winters unheated and have never seen it hurt a darn thing as long as its winterized correctly.

When you hit the dump button the MH should lower immediately, however it has no bearing on what it takes to get level. Also you don't have to over extend your jacks this way. A tire off the ground does not matter just make sure your on solid ground where the unit can't slip.I would not want to be In a position where you had a rear and a front tire off the ground though.

Cooper tires at 295 75 22.5 are only $350.00 plus install and balance. I will put these on when I need tires.

I was thinking just as wolfe10-- you had no 120V power to your charger is why I questioned the 50 amp breaker claim. In fact you may have always had 120V power to the charger and what you changed was a 12V 50 amp Circuit breaker in the 12V out charge line. Two different animals.thanks for the clarification.

harveywhite, When on electric if you have the 450 unit running THREE zones on electric will not work very efficiently and DP will be needed. Now if one has the 600 series which has TWO big heating elements then it works great on 120V. I generally only run one zone as that seems to heat the whole coach and have a small 1500W heater as back up. I have the 450 with just TWO zones and as long as it stays at 36-40(low for the nite) and warms up during the day(above 60) the single 120V works fine. IF one is in a area where its at 30-45 all day long then diesel is and will be required when on a 450 system.

Dougallman, Its so simple to winterize a coach and hurts nothing sitting with no heat all winter so what is the point behind this experiment.

First off, determine if it is the fan switch and not the fan motor (eg) jump switch to run motor at full bore. The switch can be replaced separately.

I would remove the so called "plugged" heat exchanger and run some pressured hot water through it and see what the flow is like. You can easily join the hoses and the zone will run fine without the one register if in fact that's the problem till the new one gets to u. its really almost impossible for those little heat registers to be plugged

Several things here. Starting off with 112V is not enough(poor to begin with) because soon as you add loads like the AC it will drop the voltage below acceptable levels as you soon found out and running a 30 amp 80 ft #12 extension just adds fuel to the fire.Should use #8, PLUS how far is the 30 amp outlet away from your original power to house inlet? Check the out voltage at the receptacle.

Personally I think the build technology gets pretty stale after 10 years and things are mighty worn or worn out in general. It depends on if used full time or part time. Mileage is not usually an issue it seems. Anyhow my opinion to answer the OP question is 10 years max.

Perfect and just what I suggested was wrong as I been there and done that. Glad you were able to get er done man.

Thanks cmarq as that explanation makes a lot more sense.

I doubt a motorhome that old had a factory electric brake wire.on A SIDE NOTE 6 pole will work for electric brakes AND 12v CHARGE although 7 pole is easier to work with and if you want BU lights then 7 pole is a must.

The fuel air tube that runs out of the turbo waste gate that supplies air to the fuel pump?? Never heard that one before? There is a small vacuum tube that regulates the tubro boost pressure.