ticat900

OK now you will need to take the front cover off the unit and make sure the circulating pumps are coming on. There will two of them assuming yours is a standard 2 zone heating. If the pumps are not activating then you will have to trace the problem which most likely is the control board. If the pumps are running locate the brass one way flow valves and give them a couple of raps with a small hammer or mallet as theses things stick especially if unit has sat for long time without usage. These valves are located between the pump and the lines that flow out the top of the aqua hot/hydro hot unit.

It is completely correct to run a 10-12 gauge wire from chassis battery to the 7 pole connector through it and up to the toad battery that works just fine. Been there and do that. I put a 20amp circuit breaker on each end. It will charge 100% fine run the same size ground wire also 10-12 gauge. I like 10 gauge. If you have and want to use the factory wired 12V supply line in the 7 pole connector that will suffice also. I have looked at the charge controller and its exspensive.Your alternater regulater should suffice although I suppose its possible to boil your toad battery.I make sure my line is only connected when toad motor is off and in tow position(ign on) does not overcharge at all

The hydro hot system that gives you hot water and interior heat is two separate systems.The heat exchanger and what heats it(120V and diesel) are the common denominators. The fact that you get no heat at all sounds like the wall thermostat is failing or set improperly. Its possible both zone valves are stuck closed but highly unlikely. You did not mention if the heat exchanger(mini heater rads) fans are blowing cold air? or no air? If no air then its the controller or the thermostat. Please provide more information. If the Hydro hot is low on boiler fluid the diesel will not activate and nothing will circulate heat wise. Go look at the overflow bottle and make sure there's fluid in it and make sure no little red lite is on on the control board.

Some of the water connections in Motor homes are rubber hose so be careful with more than 55 pressure!! And if going away for the whole day or more turn off the park MH water pressure. Seen too many unit over the years with water pouring out of bay doors.

TEAMROPE, 50amp breaker to run the onboard charger? I don't think so. 15 amp most likely/ I notice u have explained things a little clearer now.The 120V charger was always running as the 50AMP circuit breaker u showed is on the charger out line so in actuality the charger was always working fine just not able to charge the batterys

I have owned and worked on many many RV systems over the years and currently own a 2008 Allegro bus diesel pusher and I have never ever seen a aqua or surflo water pump in a RV ever ever come close to peeling ones skin off?

teddychamp, I have no idea where you dreamed up motorhomes don't have wiring diagrams etc but that's factually untrue. Most motorhomes all have wiring diagrams.

Is that air ride /air level or is it hydraulic jack level???? Call Valid manufacturing in Salmon Arn BC Canada as they made most of the air leveling controls for Prevost,Beaver,Monaco etc. They may be able to repair or replace the control for you. http://validmanufacturing.com 250 832 6477

Just worked on a friends 2001 Monaco Executive.The 12V wiring system that feeds the dash area is a nightmare. You look in the book and it says look for a red with white wire. You know how many red with white wires there are that run different things? Go to the electrical brain center outside on drivers front side. Look at the 500 odd wires that are fed through 2 pieces of conduit and try and trace a wire?? Try reading the schematics supplied by Monaco. The power feed wire to the gauges shows as power fed from ignition to fuse, then from fuse to gauges to activate all the gauges? Not true as it turns out. Power from ignition goes to continuous duty solenoid which is activated which in turn sends power to a power bar which in turns sends power to the fuse which in turn sends power to the gauges. BUT!! the schematics shows the red with white as a direct power feed to gauges.

Weird post.

is this a hydraulic system or air system? If its air is it power gear or what brand?

I have found that some so called AH specialist tighten the two 10MM mounting bolt nuts too tight and have seen the motor mount lug broken or cracked. BE VERY CAREFUL that you just snug the two mount bolts and not over tighten them. The units made after 2006ish don't have a rad cap, just a air bleed valve. I wish they stayed with the rad cap idea (personal opinion). The act of removing the motor,brush and vacuum the chamber, replace the nozzle, check the spark gap,etc. is not rocket science and any capable person can easily do it yourself. TOO BAD the manufacturers install some units in extremely difficult areas and are hard to get at to service. Plain dumb on the manufacturer(Tiffin,Newmar etc). I have done several AQ services and have never had the need to check FP. That requires a special gauge etc. Best ask a AH tech to do that for you if need arises. I have also found that the factory air vent(intake setting) is too rich sometimes. I think its supposed to be 90 degrees max and have found some only at 45. Once opened up another 1/4 inch the smoking disappears. I am not an expert but have done several services on various models and have been successful The black boot covering the air intake? I have not seen this-- not sure what that's all about??

Sure, you can buy a good converter for like $150. They are pretty easy to mount and wire up, but will have to rewire the 120V wires that flow thru the present inverter if you want to remove it or just leave it in place as a flow through system as it is now.

How could the fluid not expand into the overflow bottle? never heard of that one? Now if the bottle is empty because the unit is too low on AF I can see that although all the ones I seen in this case shut off automatically and I have had to jumper them(15+16) the photo cell just floats on the end under the jet so not sure how this could be misaligned? at least I have not seen this situation? always learning though.

Chances of this little piece being sloshed up onto the crank are slim to none and if for some reason it was swirling around in the pan the chances of damage are slim to none.

Does it use oil? If not why would you worry? Just keep a eye out for leaks etc. What chassis? If Spartan its a Spartan part etc. The dipstick and tube are chassis parts. For example on my ISL the dipstick tube says Spartan right on it so I assume so will the dipstick how did you break off the dipstick?

Fuel filters and definitely prefill but not to worry about pluging fuel outlet just make sure the fuel and container and fuel your using is super clean. Exhaust brake frozen closed will definitely cause this problem. Plugged air filter, turbo not working for sure will cause the problem or broken/badly leaking intercooler hose.

My wife and I have a 03 Travel Supreme with the Hydro Hot diesel/electric heating system. We seem to be getting more and more fumes from the diesel. We had new filter and burner nozzles replaced by a service tech last winter but still get lots of smoke at start up which lasts for approximately 3 min then goes away until shut off then another puff of blue grey smoke. Neither one of us handles the smell very well and when we are in crowed park I am sure it affects our neighbors! Any input??? Did the guy that replaced the nozzle also wire brush and vacuum out the burner chamber?? that's very important.Second off it may need the Fuel pressure reset.Also I find a lot of the ones I look at are set too ricjh on the air intake ajustment I found that just use the 120V side of it works fine and if it gets a little too cool out use a 1500watt heater. Power between the two is way cheaper than diesel at $4.00 PG

Its a almost impossible task but can be can be repaired and repainted but is extremely expensive. Just a complete repaint is 15K and up.

Look there are hundreds if not thousands of Diesel Pusher MH for sale that are better than Alphas.They have terrible resale value and had a ton of delamination. Look for different unit.

I think you meant not turning on? Anyhow you should hear the solenoid make a latching noise? If not, power to the solenoid is broken(fuse or circuit breaker) or the solenoid is dead or the switch is bad. This is all assuming your house batteries are properly charged. If the batteries are too low they won't engage the solenoid.

I am sure its a very nice unit because the Allegro bus is and there one below the Zepher.I am sure it will have one or two issues as all Tiffin diesels seem to have them .One thing is that Tiffin will either repair for free or pay someone to fix your issues assuming there related to the manufacturing of the unit Good example is my windshield popped at the upper front corners and the windshield had to be removed and new seal installed. It was 5 years old and they paid the bill $616.00. One issue is go up and look at the roof side rails as they crack.They will fix this for free either at the factory or at a designated repair center. Also I have found the replacement parts are priced very reasonable through them unlike Newmar and others.

One of my RV friends has a 2006 378 and really likes it. It has not been a problem at all. I have looked at it and its not high end in any manor but its a good entry level unit as I see it. He is very happy with it and has put about 20K on it in 3 years. except poor fuel mileage as big gassers generaly get about 6.5 maybe 7 average

I have a air outlet in the driver side front electrical department.There is also a shut off valve under the fender well right where the device is plumbed through the compartment so be aware. One problem I have found is if you need more than 105 lbs force its snail pace slow and after 110 forget it.

OK. Not for me especially on a 2014 roof but to each their own. 4-5 k is pretty pricey.