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abyrd

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Everything posted by abyrd

  1. There are 4 conditions that trigger the audible alarm Low Oil Pressure, over temperature, alternator and low coolant level, the low oil pressure, over temperature and alternator also have idiot lights. Based on the fact that the oil pressure, temperature all showed normal on instruments and no idiot lights therefore I assumed that the problem must have been coolant level. My electrical schematic show an idiot lamp for the low coolant level but mine isn't equipped with it oil pressure switch has tow post, one provides signal to idiot lamp (less than 7 psi) and the other provide signal to oil pressure gauge. Jim
  2. Bay heater is now working, found loose/corroded connect on snap action thermostat that is mounted on bulkhead in water compartment. The thermostat operating temperatures are: Heater on 40 F off 50 F per data found in owners manual. Jim
  3. At last the gremlin was found. The oil pressure switch was bad. In search for replacement switch found pricing from on line RV supplier to be a rip off (over $150). Was unable to cross reference from numbers on failed switch or parts number referenced in owners manual. Contacted HR tech support and they were able to identify part as VDO 360-023B. Found part on line for $39.95, total cost $52 with tax and freight. Really pays to shop around. Jim
  4. If it wasn't for these gremlins we would have nothing to do during these cold wet days in the Pacific Northwest. Jim
  5. It would be a lot easier to troubleshoot the problem is the audible would stay on. The problem is intermittent. We were on the road for three weeks in September and only occurred a few time and newer for an extended period. We drove a 200 mile round trip on Christmas and the alarm was on the majority of the time. There are multiple inputs to the same audible device each one of them have a blocking diode to prevent a back feed to each initiating device. After further studying of the schematic I did discover that LOW COOLANT also had an idiot light, so I am now looking at all six circuits that initiate the same audible device. The LOW COOLANT lamp doesn't illuminate when starting the engine so I'm going to start by replacing that lamp and will them go from there if that doesn't solve the problem. Jim
  6. I believe that my thermostat closed at around 34 and opened around 38 Jim
  7. Mine has three wires coming thru the wall + red -black. and white that turns red lamp on in coach to indicated heater is on. Jim
  8. Huff, My freeze protection heater doesn't work either. My coach is a HR Endeavor 04 I can turn the heater to activate it but the red light never indicates when the thermostat calls for heat. I removed the heater and I found the printed circuit unit board has failed. I bypassed the PC board and made it work manually. My heater is 12 v, 300 watts. The brand is CARGO BAY, no parts, no longer in production. Jim
  9. In most cases you will get more capacity with four six volt batteries connected in the series/parallel configuration. The individual six volt batteries are easier to handle than twelve volts batteries would be . Jim
  10. Herman, I have found the sensor, can't locate the associated module (black box). Jim
  11. Ever since owning (6 years) my 2004 HR Endeavor with Cummins ISC 8.3 I frequently get an audible alarm with no idiot light. I have studied the wiring schematic and I have determined that the only abnormal conditions that triggers an audible without the illumination of an idiot light is LOW COOLANT LEVEL. I have checked the coolant level many times and it is always in the normal range. I have removed the sensing probe from the coolant tank and found to be clean and no signs of damage, checked with OHM meter and get infinity reading. I contacted HR technical support requesting advice, there recommendation was to check control module (black box) that is associated with the coolant alarm circuit. They provided me with a picture of the module but there were unable to provide me with where it was located. The nuisance alarm doesn't bother me , because I can't hear it. My DW tells me that it drives her crazy and it's time for me to fix it and if I could hear it I would have spent more time to find the problem. I think after 6 years it has finally reached to top of my honey do list. Any help would be appreciated. Jim
  12. Make sure you don't get bleach that has a detergent. By my mistake I put some Clorox that has a detergent in is to sanitize the water tank on my boat and it took forever to flush it out. The water just kept foaming forever. Jim
  13. Bill you are correct, you will not be able to see any flame. The combustion chamber is separate from heated air passage that circulates the heated air into the coach.
  14. The over temperature device on my Atwood is 190 F. After increasing the air flow by adding new register the temperature varied between 150 F to 170 F depending on the inlet air temperature. Jim
  15. One of the largest salvage yards, VISONS, just go to their webpage. you can send a picture to them and they will match you part. With a little luck they will have one off of coach that matches yours. Jim
  16. I had a similar problem, the over temperature device would shut the burner off and the fan would run until it cooled down enough for the over temperature to automatically reset. After further investigation was determined the there was inadequate air flow thru the heat exchanger. After reviewing the furnace installation instruction, I discovered that the factory installation did not provide the minimum required duct size. I added an addition register and worked fine. I purchased the DP used when it was a few years old didn't realize the problem until the first winter. Jim
  17. It took less than 4 hrs shop time to have my installed on my Dodge Dakota. Can't imagine $4500, even if shop rate was $150 per hour that would be 30 hours. I would look for a small independent shop who has a good reputation. Jim
  18. Carl, West Marine and most other marine suppliers have a good selection of 12v water pumps. Jim
  19. Sorry for not seeing your response. The load on the inverter when you interrupted you shore power explains for some of the voltage drop and we don't know the state of charge of the house battery when you started the test. I have the same thoughts that Kay offered, if you chassis batteries are being overcharged I would check the charging circuit on you engine. Jim
  20. Some what surprised to see the house battery voltage drop that much when disconnected shore power. I have some of the same questions that Carl had. Was the inverter on? How old are your house batteries? How long was the shore power off before you took the battery voltage reading? Jim
  21. On my Magnum charger/inverter you can turn the charger and the inverter OFF you cannot turn the pass-through off. It might be helpful if you could change the scale on your volt meter so you can read you volts with in 1/10 volt. Jim
  22. I'm not familiar with Workhorse chassis, however I am familiar with the drive shaft parking brake on the Chev P30 chassis. The brake is actually engage with a charged spring and uses a hydraulic cylinder to compress the spring to release the parking. On these units there is a procedure to release the parking brake if the hydraulic system fails. Jim
  23. RFSOD48, Yes just spray it on wipe off, I have used both soft cotton towel and microfiber, don't see much difference between the two. Rig look like new and shine last. Jim
  24. I have been using the Lucas Slick Mist without wash, just rinse the grime off first. I have found the dirt and grime doesn't stick to surface as much when using the Slick Mist, Here in the northwest the rain pretty much keeps your rig clean. Jim
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