Jump to content

abyrd

Members
  • Content Count

    285
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by abyrd

  1. Have you checked the 120v AC circuit breaker that supplies your charger? Are other 120v AC circuits working? Jim
  2. I Have you confirmed that there is no axial movement in the pulleys (A/C, tensioner, Crankshaft) that you are trying to align to. There may be the slightest amount of movement in any of the other pulleys when the engine is running. Jim
  3. Have you checked the position of the hot water by-bass valve? Jim
  4. Did you remove the end bells (bearing housings) to replace the brushes? If so the bearings may not properly seated. Jim
  5. Don't believe any of the components in your picture are rated at 450 AMPS. Jim
  6. Most auto parts stores have a selection of sockets, can't believe you won't find one that won't work. Jim
  7. That's why many of us choose not to enroll in any of the extended warranty plans. Glad you took the time to do the math before you get too deep wasting your money. Jim
  8. Looking at the damaged board I would speculate that a component failed that caused a direct fault between a positive conductor to ground. You get the damaged that occurred required a significant of current to generate the heat to cause the damage. Looking at your new board at looks the larger red jumpers are in close proximity to a black jumper. If the red conductor is a positive lead and black negative there may have been a short between these jumpers caused damage. I would definitely check all wiring external connection for grounds before making any connection to the new board. As a precautionary measure I would make a test jumper with a 20- 30 amp inline fuse and temporally connect in series with any external positive lead, once it check OK remove series jumper and make permanent connection. Jim
  9. Purchased a 2004 HR 40' Endeavor in 2011, had 29,000 miles it. Purchase price was less 1/3 of original purchase prices as listed on original bill of sale. Absolutely have had no repair expense other than routine maintenance. Have replaced tires, coach and chassis batteries. I have performed all of my own maintenance except flushing cooling system and replacement of antifreeze. Just rolled over 55,000 miles and couldn't be happier. Jim
  10. Do you have a filter on the suction side of the pump? If so it may be restricted, preventing water to reach the pump. Jim
  11. If you have an Onan quiet diesel, Have you checked the V belt that drives the water pump? Jim
  12. We were in Yosemite last year and stayed just south of Groveland CA, its on Hwy 120 about 15 miles north of the park entrance. It was mid September and we had warm days and cool nights, stayed at Yosemite Pines RV park. Park was not very busy, they were winding down for the season. It quite a winding steep grade just north of Groveland, make sure you take the NEW PRIEST GRADE road, the OLD Priest Grade rode doesn't allow RV's. We also have a HR Endeavor 40' and were pulling a toad, no difficulty traveling up or down the grade, just drive slow uses you gears when going down hill. Jim
  13. 50 A GFI is $79 at Lowes include outdoor rated enclosure. Just purchased one for my hot tub. Jim
  14. If you need alignment, Lees Alignment in Chehalis, WA has a . good track record, it's about 70 miles north on I-5. They can handle big rigs. Jim
  15. We also have the Samsung RF 18, best thing since ice cream. Jim
  16. I would check the ground connections on the stop light bulb sockets. A poor ground wire can cause so strange thinks to happen. Jim
  17. Is there any chance that this relay is an interlock that allows operation of the slide when the coach the chassis engine is not running. Might want to start you engine to see if it de=energizes. Do your coach have a permissive switch for the slides? Jim
  18. Is you generator on a slide , if so I would perform a thorough inspection of all wiring. The wiring may have been damaged or pinched in the slide mechanism. If you don't find any issue, my nest step would be to check the switch inside the coach. Do you have the wiring diagram for the remote start? It's a pretty simple circuit. Jim
  19. The tyco relay available at most auto stores such as Auto Valve, NAPA, etc, less than $10. They will not have the tab with hole, you will have to make means to secure. You can get then with different contact capacity. Would use a zip tie and stable to secure. Nice job of troubleshooting. Jim
  20. I used the one that powered the ice maker in the NO-COLD. Jim
  21. After reviewing your findings, I believe the problem lies either in the magnet switch or circuit that senses the outer slide in the extended position. I have based this on the assumption that this magnetic switch is the device that initiates the extension of the inter slide. If the problem doesn't originate in this circuit, then the next place to look is for a hardware or software failure in the control module. It difficult to trouble without a schematic or logics of the control module. Jim
  22. You might want to retest the magnet switched with a light instead of the volt meter. Sometime I have fount that you may deselect a voltage with a meter, but if the contacts have poor conductive they won't carry any load. Jim
  23. I next step would be to trace the wires from each magnetic switch and find the first junction or connection and perform the same test. Are there any connection between the three switches? I would perform a thorough inspection ofall wiring from the switches, especially looking for any potential pinch point where the slides slide. Jim
  24. Forgot to mention that once you remove the magnet reed switch you can test it by swiping a steel object by the reed switch and observe the contact development with an ohm meter to determine if it changes state. This procedure will work is the magnet is internal to the reed switch. If this doesn't work, your switch may require an external magnet instead of the steel object. Jim
×
×
  • Create New...