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Everything posted by jleamont
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ObedB, Blake made a good point that I had forgotten about, give it a try, if still no good call around for a thermostat. Don't forget Stoltzfus RV in West Chester PA, a little far from you but they have a decent inventory of parts, in a pinch I will run to them.
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floridarandy, 36' Diesel would be an interesting coach, I have seen small Diesel Class A's before and they look neat. One thing to keep in mind while shopping is overall quality of the coach, look a the fine details inside type of wood, is it real wood, the manufactures reputation for quality etc.. Take a look at how it was taken care of by the previous owner, most rv dealers will show it in its worse condition, while that drives my DW crazy It gives me a feel on how the previous owner took care of it. Floor plans; keep an open mind with these, what you think you might want might not work best for you, open it up, sit in different spots throughout the interior and take it all in. If it has slides on both sides and you like to sit out side under the awning, again open it up put the awning out and give it a try. A 4 slide coach or a coach with slides on the passenger/patio awning side wouldn't work for us, I spend a lot of my time in and out of the under storage compartments under the awning, the slide hanging above me would be in my way and all it would do is add lumps to my head, since no one would be inside the extra interior space would be a waste, to keep it closed just creates a tighter interior than if it wasn't there in the first place. This one is a miss for most people; close all slides and walk around the interior, ask yourself, can I access the things I would need while on the road, i.e toilet, shower, kitchen (cabinets, refrigerator). While on the road often times you cannot open up the coach if you stop in a rest stop for the night or a parking lot, be sure you can still function and be comfortable with the slides closed in this situation. Hope this helps, one other thing, if the dealer makes you promises they do not keep walk away before you sign for it, while it may be frustrating and a disappointment there is another dealer somewhere that will want to earn your business. good luck
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Cummins ISL And ISC Engines With CAPS Fuel Injector
jleamont replied to dickandlois's topic in Engines
ObedB, I agree a drain would be great especially if it was a low point drain with a sump like the older tractors were equipped with to remove water from the tank. I considered having the fuel polished but I was told its not that bad no need . There is a local company in Delaware county that performs this work, $862.00 was the cost they quoted me. I'm going to run it into New England and see how it goes, I figured I have plenty of extra filters and.....well what the heck. -
Cummins ISL And ISC Engines With CAPS Fuel Injector
jleamont replied to dickandlois's topic in Engines
Carl, the coach hasn't moved, I didn't want to run it until that stuff was dead since it multiplies so rapidly. Now I know it is I will be running that tank out Friday. here is what I had...cooties is what it is http://www.diesel-bug.com/diesel-bug-information.html I have three of each filter with me ready to swing them out when I arrive in Maine Saturday. -
Cummins ISL And ISC Engines With CAPS Fuel Injector
jleamont replied to dickandlois's topic in Engines
Update: the products listed above worked. No Diesel Bugs alive, all dead. Oddly the percentage of them also dropped and I pulled the sample from the bottom of the tank on both sides. Not sure of the product dissolved them or what happened, not complaining. My Cetane jumped up to 47 which isn't great but not horrible either. Now comes the cleanup as the leftovers get pulled into my filters. Hitting the road Friday, cant wait to see how it performs. -
movingon06, I chased air leaks on our coach several times. Check to see if you have a connection in the front of the coach below or around the generator for a tow truck to connect to, mine was exhausting air from that and I have an air port in my drivers side compartment where my fuel tank and propane tank are for connecting an air hose, that was leaking also. Beyond all of my air tank drain valves leaking that was all I was able to find. I found soapy water and a spray bottle to be very effective in chasing air leaks. If you decide to crawl under the coach just be sure to place safety stands under it before crawling under to look for leaks.
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That's a new way to put it
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Herman, the secret is definitely in the chemicals. I bought the kit from this small company. It came with all of the tools, scrapers, goggles gloves, spray bottles everything you could ever think of including wax and polishing pads. Watch the video in the end is the guys cell phone number. I met him in person right after we bought the coach in a campground in Pigeon Forge TN July 2014, he charges $1000 materials and labor to do the job, I believe the kit from him was $400. Looking back I should have had him do it then. We used steam, my friend bought a Shark household steam cleaner for $8.00 in a thrift shop, it was slow but worked. He is working on his Tiffin now with the leftovers. He has the Diamond Shield, I had the 3M version. Here are the steps; Day 1, pre treat, cream product you apply the day before two times, it is like paint stripper on the shield, it loosens it. No affect on the BASF paint Monaco used in these years. day 2, steam and scrape the shield off. The kit comes with two different size scrapers for the shield removal process. Apply the glue remover supplied and the glue melts off, just scrape it off with the supplied plastic scraper he supplies a pack of plastic blades and two different size scrapers these are in addition to the other two mentioned above. Wash the front and hand polish the paint. I haven't polished it yet waiting for some of the touch up work then I'm going to have the entire coach polished after it sets up. I tried 3m adhesive remover just to compare, no good, the glue didn't respond at all. The products in his kit were like nothing I had ever seen. My friend that helped is a body shop manager, he couldn't believe how strong that BASF paint is, it's like scraping crud off of a piece of glass.
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gayleking, are you hooked up to a water source i.e campground water spigot? if so turn it off and see if it works now.
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Forgot to post, its all off. Here are the before and after photos. Before After I have some paint damage from what appears to be poor prep when the coach was painted new that I am waiting for an estimate to have fixed. But what a difference! Very small spots of paint that wasn't adhering properly I will have corrected this fall. This was the 3m product on my coach, FYI their own glue remover doesn't work on this product. 15 hours or labor total to remove that mess.
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From the album: New to us motorhome and old motorhome photos
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From the album: New to us motorhome and old motorhome photos
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Mike, can you post the part number and manufacture of these? I am interested in this design. Thank you
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Welcome! Enjoy your new to you Motorhome.
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Thanks Brett. This is one of the items on my list that is not critical but annoying. Other than my fuel issue which I believe is behind me (last fuel sample report due in tomorrow) my critical list is behind me. Now onto the annoying items like this.
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Did you do that yourself? That looks great!
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For those of you that have a two stage engine brake (hi/low) with the Cummins ISL, what operating characteristic do you notice on low vs high? Does it still down shift the transmission but with less resistance on low? Just curious, I still haven't found the time to bring the lap top from work to home so I can reprogram it so low works, yes I have the switch but the previous owner had the programming changed so it only works on high in either position so I was told by Monaco anyway still baffles me....
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I forgot to mention, they did make me feel better when Cummins told me that no factory software will allow that engine to over speed, if the Allison would do it my engine light would come on. What the RPM is when over speed occurs was my original question. It just seems too high for my liking. I can only hope Allison and Cummins figured all of this out before and both are programmed to stop that from happening. Someone has to know the answer.
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Brett, good advice as usual. I called them last week, he told me max 1800. I explained my question again, he put me on hold came back and told me he and his supervisor couldn't locate any documentation. That was the second time I got either no or bad information from them.
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Since we are on the topic; what is the highest RPM your coach will rev to with the engine brake on slowing down. Mine will top out after it downshifts itself to 2200 RPM which makes my hair stand up. I think it's to high. Is this common with everyone else?
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I think I was more nervous than you. I tried to break the ice with the instructor when we got there but he wasn't having it. In the end glad you passed! No go and enjoy that coach you are all nice and legal now.
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Glad to see you posting!
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FMCA Forum "Meet and Greet" In W. Springfield
jleamont replied to wolfe10's topic in Type A motorhomes
Good story Rich, thank you for chiming in. -
FMCA Forum "Meet and Greet" In W. Springfield
jleamont replied to wolfe10's topic in Type A motorhomes
Looks like the State fair grounds was the last location, which looks like its within the city . Someone that was there in 2012 will have to chime in. Looks easy to get to. -
Yea, I can understand the draw to that area now. Very nice.