jleamont

If it weren't for employment I would be down there also. From the first thought of precipitation to at least the end of March its messy up here. My jeep also isn't allowed out of the driveway in that window the other cars are disposable, if you like them too bad they wont last.

I refuse to move it out of the driveway into the salt and salt brine. Everything will get moved but in two years it will be all rotted out . We looked at an American Dream when we were shopping the underside had holes in it, no thanks. If I could I would, believe me. It's so bad it gets dusty, our oil samples at work in the winter have higher sodium levels from the dust getting sucked into the engine.

David, glad to hear from you and to hear your experience has gone well for you. Is the coach level when you are experiencing this issue? My opinion of those Norcolds is not good after the experience we had with ours. If it were me I would replace it with a residential unit, but that depends on what you use the coach for(boondocking or you mostly have electric hooked up), and how your unit is equipped (inverter and battery supply). The removal of the existing unit also depends on the dimensions of your door opening, some coaches no side windows have to be removed to replace the unit, some they do (like in our case).If the Norcold has bit the dust I wouldn't replace it with another, IMHO they are too expensive and just do not perform well for all of the money you will spend on it. Yours just might need a simple fix and for that I am hoping someone else will chime in. Great idea for the fire suppression system for the refrigerator. Safety first!!

I actually thought you might have it already . Good luck with location a computer to store all of that information. You always seem to pull the rabbit out of the hat when asked for documents.

Rich, good to know and I figured you had it in you vast vault of information . I still think it would be in his best interest to figure it out and handle on his own if he has the skill level to do so. If you haven't noticed I have trust issues with service technicians, coming from that line of work the stuff I have seen in the last 23 years has been more than scary. Just when you thought no one would ever do that to someone's vehicle along comes the next one and we all stand there in shock.

I did ask, the explanation was bio has more water, due to a bi product of the manufacturing process, while the lubrication is higher so is the sludge which is another bi product or manufacturing that didn't go as planned. I avoid bio blended fuel while traveling when possible, it seems like its starting to pop up everywhere from 5%-20%. Supposedly it will remove water and breakdown the sludge that is common in bio blended fuels. I have often found it puzzling how a product could do both, but I am no chemist. We will see how it works. If it keeps me off the side of the road it was well worth it.

Just wanted to attach a link for the Bendix Gen 4 and 5 diagnostic and information book that was given to me by Monaco today. This is the ABS system that is very common on Roadmaster chassis in the early 2000's. The module is supposed to be located on all Monaco products under the drivers side arm rest (under the parking brake valve) and it gets its power from the front power distribution box compartment in front of the drivers side wheel. http://www.getteknikal.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/bendix-abs.pdf Just an FYI for everyone.

So I called Monaco tech support for my ABS diagnostics, mentioned the bucking experienced, the tech laughed and said the ISL will buck violently with a partially blocked fuel filter, he had no idea why the ISL acts different than the ISB or ISC (other than the pumps are completely different, the ISB and ISC are similar while the ISL is similar to the ISM and ISX). He also mentioned my main power solenoid in the rear of the coach, it looks original and from previous posts on FMCA I bought the Marine one mentioned (cant think of it at the moment) and I keep it as a spare, I may just install it into the coach and keep the old one as the spare, just for some piece of mind.

There has to be a shop manual somewhere to purchase for that chassis or someplace to call and get the proper specs. ta-da... https://www.ultrarvproducts.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=208 I would start here, call and see where it goes.

Here it is...this is the one I carry under my coach, yea, yea, yea, call me crazy https://store.snapon.com/US-Torque-Instruments-ft-lb--Torque-Wrench-Adj-Click-Type-U-S-Fixed-Ratchet-120-600-ft-lb-3-4-drive-P640969.aspx Kay, my hair stood up when I read that, all I could think was the posts with the aftermath. I feel like maybe they are not all bad....??? I would feel more comfortable with a local truck repair shop I cant help but think they would value every customer more than CW would, my #1 concern is how much experience does any shop have with workhorse chassis?

I just ordered a case of this product, "Diesel Mate" http://northamerica.certifiedlabs.com/products-fuel-quality.html Recommended by a friend that just went to a diesel fuel lab class to discuss how bad the new fuels are. Expensive but if it saves me one breakdown its worth it.

I'm not so sure I would go that route, coming out of that business most mechanic's don't torque anything besides intake manifolds and cylinder heads. Not knowing your skill level id bet you would be better off taking on the DIY project yourself, if you knew enough to ask for the torque specs you just might know more than the shop staff at CW. I would try to narrow down and locate the specs for your chassis and just do it.

Roger, I figured that's where everyone was at, its been quiet on here. I also use a foam product like the one you described. Thank you for the response. Joe

I was thinking the same when I saw that Roadking, Welcome!

Roy, our class C was the same as you described. we would also sway and lean like it was going to lay on its side. Very exhausting to drive. here is what I did to correct it. Installed a rear axle track bar. http://www.supersteerparts.com/products/supersteer-trac-bar-e350.html Replaced the front and rear sway bars with RoadMaster sway bars. http://www.supersteerparts.com/products/motorhome--rv/class-c/ford-econoline-class-c/ford-e350.html Installed Bilstein shocks on the front and rear. Shocks are on the same page as the other parts above. I called them for a package deal and they discounted it all. That eliminated 98% of my fatigue, expensive but well worth it.

I was hoping you would see this and chime it. this is right up your alley of expertise.

Sherry, ours started to fail the same way, freezer seemed to be fine the refrigerator was holding a whopping 56 degrees.

Great kit but it would require some mods to fit an ISL. I would need a block for the sensor and fittings to locate it after the secondary filter since my coach is plumbed with JIC hydraulic type fittings.

Thanks, now on to the ABS light, I have to call Monaco tomorrow to get a list of abs fault codes, seems like a power problem to the module the way the light was flickering like a strobe light.

Herman, I owe you one, or a few. Hope our paths cross. BBQ on my Traeger and some cold ones are in order.

Rich, do you have a recommendation for a device like this?

I will say I have never had a fuel filter as the end result for a bucking compliant. They were always lack of power, must be something with the CAPS design.

Bill, my lift pump is producing a little over 7 psi (mechanical gauge) . I have no way to test flow but i can tell you it's like a garden hose

Got home 2hrs ago no issues at all. I cut the primary filter open and it had the same crud we get in tractors at work, it looks like cold bacon grease sludge, common up here but only in the winter. But the trip home didn't end without something acting up. My ABS light was flickering like a strobe light and flashed out a 17, 19 and 6 code, or that was what it looked like anyway. Rich, do you have a code list for these?

Rich, I replaced all of the fuel lines in July of 2014 when the line failed between the tank and the primary filter, I pulled a Rambo and replaced all rubber lines at that time and the lift pump. Something that dawned on me last night, up in the NE we have winter blends of diesel, those blends will strip and clean the inside of the fuel tank resulting in more junk headed to the filters. I hadn't given it much though before but this coach would have had a few tanks of it in the end of last season and the beginning of this season. It causes problems at work with filters only lasting a short time since I don't actually fill this in winter it is still in the tanks from October through March and there will be residual into April and May. these lines were the reason I thought the pump went bad from it starving for fuel so often two years ago, that couldn't have been good for it. good thing my filters are right out in the open.