jleamont

winbarrows, I had the a similar problem with my coach just after we purchased it. I also replaced the fuel pump on the engine first (was told to upgrade it by Cummins) and mine would run for 30 seconds and stall, with the primary fuel filter half full. Mine turned out to be the fuel lines deteriorated between the tank and the primary filter, I was pulling air up the line. What year, make model is your coach? If you remove the fuel line between the tank and the primary filter, put a fuel can under the coach and run a hose into it (pulling fuel from the jug rather than the coach fuel tank). Prime the filter and run the engine, if it doesn't stall now you have isolated the line between the tank (or a problem with the fuel pick up in the tank) as the problem. I made the mistake of not priming the filter when I did my test and it still stalled, prefill your filter with clean fuel first. Can you see if you have rubber fuel lines or plastic tubing? link;

Funny, 10 years ago I would have been all over this . Now I would walk also. I have a 1964 Dune Buggy sitting in the garage I don't want to touch, let alone a project this big. Somehow I like to think I still have it in me to tackle stuff like this, might be fun to play if I had something else to run in the meantime.

drock, Welcome to the forum! I applaud you for wanting to bring children into the RV lifestyle at such a young age, we wish we would have started years before we did (they were 8 and 6 at the time). We are not full time and our kids are now teens while we travel on many weekends, holidays and vacations throughout the warm months, they help with the trip planning every year and count down to the next one. Even if you did it part time you will build great family memories along the way, I honestly believe it brings a family closer, or at least it did for us. I am anxious to hear the responses on this as it is not that uncommon.

If you have foam you are introducing air to the system and that will make the growling sound as if its low on fluid. Look for any sign of a leak. Since you just purchased it was the system repaired recently and has it done it since you took possession?

railroadman, what year make model motorhome (chassis) do you have? The stabilizer you have listed above looks more like an upgraded steering dampener shock rather than a steering control unit like a Safe T Plus. The big difference between a dampener and the Safe T Plus, the safe t plus will keep your wheel centered and a dampener shock will just dampen road vibrations and shimmy in your steering wheel, usually that come from larger tires, it will help a little but not as much as a centering device. But to answer your original question, No I have not heard of them before.

When we were looking all I could find that looked nice in the photos were down in FL, TX, AZ and CA. I was convinced I was going to fly around to look them over, make a decision and fly back out to make the purchase and drive it back. It seems like all of the nice ones are in those states. As luck would have it we found this one 20 minutes from home at a small mom and pop car dealer on consignment.

Bill, great video and very interesting! You need to have the first DP running pikes peak with that set up!!!! Five, I do (and I sincerely hope most do it as well) idle when I pull into a CG and usually unhook the jeep check in etc. Where most people would have a problem is pulling off a road into a fuel stop, rest area etc etc and shutting it down prematurely. I'd bet most average people have no idea that they need to idle for a few minutes before shutting it down, the gauge in that normal environment could be the difference from leaving on its own or towing your coach away and tossing a few thousand dollars out the window. Since each engine/turbo combination, coach weight, ones driving habits etc play a crutial role on how long you need to idle the gauge would take the guess work out. I have often wondered on a few occasions if I idled it long enough, I try to error on the longer side just to be safe.

Bill they make two versions, a before and after turbo version, supposedly the after compensates and adjusts the difference.

Five, well I'm not so sure it's actually needed but would be a good instrument to have. Prior to shutting down a turbo diesel your Exhaust Gas Temperatures need to be below a specific number or you can/will damage the turbocharger. Newer engines can be a little more forgiving, but none the less a good instrument to have just to be safe, kinda like an insurance policy. modified turbo diesels or manual transmission equipped can also over heat the turbocharger depending on how it's driven. So in those cases you would need it for driving and shutting it down. older semi trucks had them from the factory, the were called Pyrometers. hope this helps and I have explained it well.

Kay, we need a "Like" button on here. I am laughing at your post but you would have known that if I didn't comment.

Didn't know a dealer could make a braided SS hose, I know my local CAT/NAVISTAR Dealer cannot, they can only make the rubber hoses to supply a brake chamber. I will have to ask around. To install a dryer I would call CAT tech support and ask them what pairs with your engine/turbo etc, give them your serial number and application, they will lead you in the right direction. I know there are many variances so you want to get the correct one. I think that is a great idea to retrofit one into your coach.

Figured it out. Auto meter makes a gauge #3344 with a required extension module #5257 (specifically for Marine or Diesel Pushers so the gauge remains accurate through all of that extended wire) so the probe gets inserted in the turbo outlet pipe, module gets mounted back in the engine bay area (10' lead on probe) then you run 18 gauge wire up to the dash and install your gauge. Total out the door just shy of $300.00. The gauge is very similar to my factory gauges, I had to ask for a chrome custom bezel so it matches the rest of them.

On a computer controlled engine and transmission it would be hard to push it hard enough to run the EGT's up with an OEM tune. Mechanical engine I could see it more so than on a computer controlled, especially if it was a manual transmission. My old service truck was a 1996 Ford F350 7.3L Powerstroke with an ATS automatic behind it and 400hp 800lbft torque (Banks and Edge tuned over each other), Pulling my mobile PM trailer with a loaded service body truck my total combination was just shy of 20000 lbs, on a steep hill I couldn't over heat the turbo, the transmission would down shift rpms would go up and EGT's would drop. It had the Banks EGT gauge with the sensor in the down pipe right at the turbocharger. I am sure if it was a manual transmission and I was lugging it I could have achieved that, not with the automatic. The only time I have heard of a stock electronic engine with an automatic achieving this was with a defective VGT (variable vane) turbo. I run a "Scan Gauge" in the coach now, but there is no sensor for EGT in my coach and I do not believe EGT is an option with that system. I would need a gauge with an electronic sensor to route all the way up front and mount it in the dash like it came with it. I would have no problem doing it if I could locate a gauge kit that was a close match to the factory VDO gauges.

Bill, you have brought up a good point...EGT gauge. I do not have one on this coach and I have often thought about installing one, mostly in part so I know when its safe to shut it down. Since my engine is not altered or performance modified MY EGT's really shouldn't be a concern while driving but shutting it down when its too hot is a concern. I usually let it idle when I go into a CG to register, then a slight tip of the throttle to crawl to the site I was never concerned I was shutting it down too fast. Even after I pull into a site I will feather the brake pedal so the compressor kicks in and allow it to purge before shutting it down. I have just been a custom to having one and without it is a little concerning. Is there a gauge with an electronic sensor rather than the typical sealed copper tube design?

Blake good! Often overlooked on an RV. Rich, that line is on my to do list, I do not like the way it looks. I have to measure it first and call Monaco/Allied for a replacement, they used two different lengths on my coach depending where the dryer was mounted but Allied has no more information other than that, so I have to measure it to be sure.

Good point!

Kay, just curious...would that have Wedge type air brakes or S cam?

Rodger, I am glad you are on here. I by no means am I a "tire expert". Have installed many along the side of the road, in the shop etc..etc.. Doesn't make me an expert, just means I know how to install them safely with the proper tools thanks to a tire manufactures training that we were required to go through for OSHA. Questions like the one above I had never given thought to, same with tire pressures increasing while driving and more so on hot road surfaces. When I bought my first RV and TPMS system more information on the display became more puzzling and somewhat alarming, now I could see the pressures rise and began to panic. After a stop in route to CA from PA parked in the Mohave Desert in July I Googled it, pressures will increase while driving and the tires were made to do so. My panic was simple lack of knowledge. Since my old C was at its max GVWR on the steer axle and over on the rear (from factory) I had my tires set to the max PSI, when I saw them go over the max PSI on the TPMS I felt nausea, just waiting for one to explode, combined with the temp that day at 120 degrees, I was convinced we were not going to get out of there without a tire failure. Never had a problem. Thank you for clarifying what to look for and be concerned with and what not to be concerned with, to have an expert on here like yourself is very helpful, altitude is another one I would have never thought of until I saw something odd on the TPMS would I ever think of it.

My C didn't use an isolator, the switch on the dash energized a relay (looked just like a Ford Starter relay) to bridge the two batteries. When I bought it had an AGM for a house battery (12v single) and the factory wet cell under the hood for the engine. My battery light would come on while driving after a while (several hours) when the AGM went bad (3 years later) I switched over to two 6v wet cells, never saw that light again. The odd part was even with the light on it was charging at 13.5v. Class A we have now has an isolator.

Bill, you are so correct!! A credit card with lots of room and a few tools will get you by! Blake, forgot about those tools, although I have opened wine and soup cans with untraditional methods before

Blake how old is your dryer?

ObedB, the last coach I put LED lights in the rear and had the same problem, this coach doesn't care if they work or not still flash the same, well unless the ground is open anyway. Rich thanks, I tried to clean and reposition the contacts nothing worked (cheap way out). I'm going to be proactive and replace the other side tonight they both looked the same inside so why not.

I think at then end of the day you would want to bring tools that you are comfortable using and only attempt repairs you are comfortable in attempting. i.e. a volt meter if you are not comfortable working around electricity I wouldn't keep one on board, you would be likely to hurt yourself with it. I was told by a mechanic when I started in that business "a person can do a lot of damage with a screwdriver if they do not know how to use it" Wow was he right. Pick up the phone and call someone in to look at it when you are in over your head, some know that and accept it others will learn from the school of hard knocks.

Kay, WOW. you can keep those Bud wheels Bill, I also carry an assortment of prybars, forgot to mention that. I considered mounting an air compressor under the coach that runs off of 120vac. Since the compressor on the engine will not support air tools. Some times I go a bit overboard....I know. Since I owned a mobile truck service until February 2015 this type for work comes normal to me, the tools above (wheel removal) stuff was on my road service truck that I sold. The company that purchased it didn't want some of the tools, since I had duplicates (shop box and truck box) I put an assortment of goodies in the coach. Photo attached of service truck on the right side of the old motorhome.

Kay, I can relate.. Bill, this is the torque wrench I have (link below) plus a 3/4" Snap-On ratchet the ratchet with two different length handles (interchangeable handle ratchet head), the longest is 5' long 33mm socket (no Bud wheels) and an extension to reach in. I did a practice run in the driveway with the combination, it wasn't fun but it worked. My jack is a 20 ton bottle jack with an screw top adjustable ram. I figured I can throw some weight into it, I have enough excess do so https://store.snapon.com/US-Torque-Instruments-ft-lb--Torque-Wrench-Adj-Click-Type-U-S-Fixed-Ratchet-120-600-ft-lb-3-4-drive-P640969.aspx Ratchet head https://store.snapon.com/Ratchet-Heads-Sealed-chrome-3-4-quot--5-15-16-L-x-1-1-4-D-x-2-1-2-W-Sealed-Head-Ratchet-P636860.aspx