jleamont

Carl, I sent you a PM. Joe

Thanks Carl!

Thanks Herman for the information.

We stayed at Pine Mountain RV park, the campground had clean sites were nice and roomy, concrete sites with asphalt roads. The one thing we didn't like was the pool. They have a kiddy pool at the campground and the regular pool is at their affiliate Best Western across the street. We traveled straight through Pigeon Forge on RT321 and it wasn't too bad to get to theCG, maybe 5-8 cars in front of us at each light. This trip was July 7th 2014. This year we are booked at Anchor Down campground in Dandridge TN.

Agreed! Want to know the quality of something, ask a certified repair technician, their response will wake you up!

Thank you for the information. I was thinking about it not to save the unit as much as it give you a better chance if getting out before it goes up. My boat also had a system in it, I cant recall the manufacture, it was probably the only thing that didn't need some sort of repair while I had it. Tom, I saw mac's recommended products on the web and his product was one I was considering. Our engine bays are probably similar since both units have the same power, chassis and body manufacture, we have a significant amount of room back there, which makes Brett's point stick more of how effective it would be. My boat the engine bay was sealed with the exception of the Bilge pump. I will have to give it some more consideration before making a purchase. Thank you

If I had a Prevost I don't think I would sleep in my house.

Dan, I am in the process of replacing one window in our coach that has fogged. it happens to be the drivers window (small sliding section), I found this company www.rvglassexperts.com to be the most reasonable price for section of window to be replaced. Once you make the purchase you would have to locate someone in the area to perform the installation or do it yourself.

Glad to help, good luck and safe travels!

Just ordered my tank from Source Engineering, I have the 2nd version (Factory replacement Nylon version) one with the bottom sensor and it is starting to crack and leak where the lines connect to it on top and around the coolant sensor on the side. Jim at Source was great to work with, thanks for the link and information.

Anyone ever retrofit a fire suppression system into a coach engine compartment? Any kit recommendations specific manufactures etc? I am considering installing a system in our DP and their is a bunch of information on the web with different designs options and a wide variety of pricing.

Pop, looks like your questions have been answered. one thing to add, as with our heat pumps are too cold I believe my Dometic (dual 13,500 btu Penguins on the roof) book says below 36 degrees they will not turn on, I get "ICE" on the display which means the compressor oil is too cold and will not allow them to turn on to prevent damage. When its that cold I leave the Aqua Hot on electric and Diesel, it is more than capable of delivering moist heat throughout. Honestly I think the roof tops should be able to handle this function and there is probably something that can be altered to make it work. We just have no desire to run the coach when its that cold out anyway.

So can a happy one...I'm there now

Schoolhouse, Welcome to the forum and congratulations with your purchase! You are at a point where you can customize your coach to meet you likings not the manufactures or previous owner. Some may call this an area of concern while others will love the opportunity to update the interior. Definitely recommend looking into local automotive upholstery shops as Kay mentioned above, that will be the most cost effective route to take. If you decide to replace the furniture just make sure what you purchase can go into a Motorhome that will allow people to ride on it while the coach is in motion and the manufacture can supply you with seatbelts, you never know when people might be traveling with you. I was told RV trailer furniture is built to a lessor standard since no one rides in a trailer while traveling down the road and with that being said they also do not have seatbelts. I have some RV furniture on order from shop4seats.com. So far this company has been good to us with the dinette change last year. While my driver and passenger seat look decent our coach interior layout didn't suite or needs and one piece of furniture was missing when we bought it used in May 2014 so we are making some changes. What ever you purchase if you are going to do the install yourself just be sure to look under where you are going to drill before doing so, there is a lot of plumbing and electrical wiring under the floor tucked up in the basement area, you don't want to drill through any of that by accident. Good luck if you have anymore questions just post on here and someone will be more than happy to help. Joe

I just called Source for a Surge tank, not sure if the one they have will fit my coach. $463.00 plus shipping. I have to email them photos to be certain it is the right one. Mine appears to be different from memory then what I saw on their website. More to come with this.

Carl, just remember "Cheaper to Keep Her" seems to apply.

Herman, she complains about it every time it rains when she opens the door. Hmmm, maybe umbrella and suction cups to the window on the door?

Carl, I have a Girard awning also 22', no separate one for over the entry door. Unfortunately the main awning is all we have and it doesn’t cover the entry door all the way (3/4 of the entry door). I thought about having the Main awning slid back and have another one installed over the door, it looks like it would be expensive for little gain.

I would love to have Brett or another expert walk around this coach and digest its oddity and gadgets and tell me if its normal to be set up the way it is.

Carl, great idea. Since there are two master switches in the back I am either going to bypass it or remove it and place it behind the switch plate and just leave it in the on position. Funny everytime I go to switch on the stair well lights I always press the wrong one (only two switches in that spot) and I'm standing in the dark. Never understood why it was there in the fist place, since Brett called it a salesman switch it now makes sense. So far the batteries bounced back ok so I am happy for that. I will have to keep my eye on them.

We have XZA2 energy on the steer axle, no issues. Love the ride and handling performance 295/80R22.5

I leave them on all the time so the chassis and house batteries stay happy. Especially since the coach is always plugged in when not in use. Now it's time to remove the one in the front and forget about it so it doesn't get bumped again.

Just learned the hard way how my "battery switch" inside actually works. I must have switched the battery switch off which is located in the entrance to the interior which resulted in the house batteries draining, even while it's plugged in and displaying "float charge" on the xantrex display. One would think it was wired so it just cuts power to the interior and still allows the house batteries to charge, but not the case. What really baffles me is I have two master battery switches in the back of the unit in the electrical management bay which open the positive battery cables to each battery bank (chassis and house) Why have one in the back and one up front for the house batteries? I am considering bypassing the switch up front so when you come through the door with stuff in your hand the switch doesn't get bumped accidentally and shut down the house batteries. Any thoughts?

I found a local custom decal supplier that can produce it. They also had a Mylar 3m product that will be precut to keep it protected from UV, heat and wheel cleaners. Thanks for the ideas.

Carl, thanks. Reason....friend just purchased a 2005 Allegro Bus two slides, both on drivers side. All I could think was OHNO! His didn't appear to be cable operated but then again I have never seen one on cables. The only RV cable experience I have is a POP UP....and it wasn't good. Thanks, Joe