jleamont

Love the sound of the 6v and 8v Detroits, it's kinda like a rolling thunder sound that means business.

Tom, agreed. I do love the ease of the engine access with the side radiator. I am going to see if there is any air blockage from dirt, given the operating temperature, if there is it's not much.

ObedB, I thought about that, I guess I will have to be a bit choosier where I park. Honestly, campgrounds without paved roads are a dust bowl either way, I hate when you’re sitting by a fire and someone rolls through at a high rate of speed in a golf cart or passenger car and stirs up the dust also, it doesn't taste good in your drink either.

Spoke to Monaco tech support, very helpful as usual. Since the fan is not roaring on a cold start it is not stuck on high, if it had been, on a cold start the fan would be screaming immediately. It is a Variable speed with a control valve that is hooked into the cooling system, as the temp of the engine rises the valve sends more hydraulic fluid to the fan motor which makes it spin faster. My fan motor is a Sauer Sundstrand. They feel it is operating as designed and he told me at most just make sure there is no debris blocking air flow through the radiator which will make the fan work harder. I will have to try to look through with a flashlight. Thank you everyone.

The only negative I had heard with the Cummins was exhaust manifolds cracking on the ISC and the CAPS fuel injection pumps failing prematurally around 300,000 miles, and I forget what year that was introduced and replaced with the common rail design, all I know is my 2002/2001 engine has it, and it didnt scare me away. I got that from our Cummins rep at work. I figured at 300,000 miles the unit would be long past due for replacement. Obedb, no sides here note the "F" in FMCA, its all good..Family/Friends as far as I am concerned. But....you mean if its on the internet it might not be true?

Tom, do you hear it while driving down the highway? Once its on I always hear it, It may be normal but I want to double check the system. I just figured since the air is not forced through the radiator like a front mounted engine, the fan would engage once up to operating temp and maintain a speed close to the engine RPM's, or at least that is what it is doing. The other concern is I have never driven the coach in ambient temps below 55 degrees, so it may be working properly just the conditions we run may not allow it to slow down. I can see the motor and it looked new from the rear of the coach looking forward on the drivers side. On hold with Monaco at this time....more to follow.

I have been following this post and your last comment put a big smile on my face. I have to say.......Congratulations! Enjoy, like Herman said, "don't forget to wave"

Hmmm, when I start it up it is not on until the engine warms up, but then it is always on, or should I say I always hear it even at hot idle it's moving a lot of Air. So I would say yes It's stuck on high? Anyway to test? Guess it's time to call Monaco Thanks

I wanted to know if I have a problem or if this is normal. Every time we drive into a campground that is not paved after pulling off of the highway, we stir up a tremendous dust cloud which causes the rear of the coach to disappear into a cloud. This get frustrating since I just washed it prior to leaving and it did look nice. I was trying to figure out if a lower portion of my shroud was missing and the air was dropping down or if this was normal? My temps run at 185 degrees except when pulling large hills it will climb to just shy of 200 degrees so I do not feel there is a lack of cooling. Anyone else have this issue?

Well said Brett! I have seen many diesels killed, not worn out, some by design defects, most from lack of proper maintenance or someone tinkering with HP and torque. Valve adjustment is good preventative maintenance, as soon as I have the ambition I’m going through mine, I already bought the barring tool. Trying to find the ambition.....still haven’t found it.

mangotango, I tow a 2003 Wrangler behind our diesel, no issues what so ever, in fact I keep the camera on so I know its still back there. I did have to get a hitch riser so the tow bar would level out and the jeep is lifted with large tires, I expected it to be an issue but its not. I use a Demco Commander tow bar.

I do not miss those days. As a Fleet Maintenance Manager now it's a headache in other areas, just not those.

ObedB, we pulled ours out two months ago. It was located in the back corner of the bedroom. Ours was a Spendid 2000 series, it had a bad water valve and would fill up and overflow on it's own. Since the water valve was no longer available I removed it and scrapped it. We needed more drawer space anyway for the kids so I went to our local Amish furniture shop and located a drawer unit that fit nice. My wife has no problems using the facilities at the campground so the decision was easy. If it was a stacked unit I probably would have replaced it. the combo units are to small for a family of four.

Begall, I agree with rossboyer, check your GFI outlets inside the unit. Our old Coachmen had the GFI outlet in the bathroom sink area tripped once and our fridge would not work on A/C.

Rich, When the compressor is running is your low side pulling down (usually around 35-20 PSI indicates good suction from the compressor) and the high side rising? Do you know if it is equipped with an expansion valve or an orifice tube? Sounds like you do not have a leak, more like a blockage.

Rich, same as kaypsmith. When I bought ours the dash A/C worked great, about a week later it was low on freon and cycling. I couldn't tell it was the compressor until I removed it, the freon and compressor oil were leaking onto my Fuel injection pump just behind the gear housing.

Ray, is this an FYI or did you just complete a course in the School of hard knocks?

Dale, We use the drop in pouches, which ever seem to be the cheapest. They all seem to perform equally. Our old coach had severe interior odors from the black tank, strong enough that the small fan in bathroom couldn't keep up. I started to look into why and discovered that Coachmen had the black and gray tank vents connected to a "Y" in the wall and a single roof vent. Upon further discovery none of the fittings on the plastic pipe were glued above the floor level, just press fitted. Rather than opening the walls the rest of the way to fix I tried the same gadget Herman has and it solved our problems. The only problem I had with the swivel vent was when we covered the unit it took a beating, I tried to protect it but I found replacing it every season was a routine I just had to face.

Never been there but looks nice, please post what you thought after.

Royclem, I am also curious. We were supposed to go to Jellystone in Java NY next weekend. I canceled when they failed to provide fair directions to their facility from the south, I even considered going past and then head south and pick up from their directions on the website I was told those posted on their website were bad...do not go that way from their staff. That frustrated me so we decided on Jellystone in Delaware. We camp at Jellystones as often as possible with the kids (also have their reward program) which translates to a free weekend once a year at our local Jellystone in Lancaster PA. Please let me know how it went, since most have water parks the kids love them, and to date we have never headed north from PA and I want to change this ASAP so good places I always add to my list. Have a great time! Joe

Napa also offers oil sampling, I do ours every oil change. Which is once a year but usually only 6000 miles. I thnk it cost me $12.00 for the kit plus postage Joe

Today on GMA they reported that the accident was caused by a Dry rotted tire. ObedB we are also running a dash cam in the RV. Mostly to capture the scenic views.

texaswrrr, it sounds to me like the ignition system is cutting out then back on to get a back fire, while the fuel system continues to deliver fuel thus the reason for the back fire. Seems like I said above fuel continues to spray but the spark drops off and comes back unexpectedly. I just got a response back from a friend that works at a GM dealer as I was typing this, he told me to tell you to look for broken supply wires to the coil at each coil (12v power and ground) and inspect the connections at the other end of those at the computer. Also he recommended to run it with a diagnostic computer connected and see what cylinder is dropping off when you experience the problem, that will help isolate which cylinder is of concern, I explained you may not have the ability to do so. Also they have wiring concerns with the main harness chaffing that feeds the engine on a truck chassis, its always near the radiator area where they chafe, he is not sure on a Motorhome chassis, GM also has wiring connection problems at the coil plug and at the ECM. I would follow that harness from start to finish (Computer to engine coils) If the wiring looks good and all connections look good replace that coil if you can isolate it down to a specific coil. Hope this helps and you have enough space to follow that harness. Good Luck Joe

I would love to hear the root cause of the tire failure, as we all know that type of news doesn’t sell very well so we will most likely never know.

Please do, my wife and I will look forward to it. Thanks, Joe