jleamont

Tireman9, How did you make out with the repairs?

We have ordered several different brackets from them on different occasions. Only one time did we have a problem, the wrong brackets were shipped. I called them, they apologized and sent me the correct ones. Very nice people I have no complaints. My orders were from their website which directed me to Pay Pal for payment.

Clarinetone, The best way I have found is locate the electrical connector under the seat, disconnect it (it is your seat belt chime). There are 4 studs in the floor with 18mm nuts that are holding the seat base to the cab floor, remove the nuts and remove the seat from the cab. Once you flip it over you will see the bolts that secures the seat to the base. Once you remove those four, remove the base and the seat track is staring at you. Just be sure whatever you do to make sure you have adequate room behind the seat to allow for the additional travel. The Ford cab has always had this problem. If you ever have the opportunity to see one before the body is installed the seats in their rear most position go beyond the rear wall. The Class C we traded last year had this same issue and my legs would cramp on long trips. Ours was a Coachmen and there was no additional room behind the seats, so I had to live with it. Hope this helps, good luck. Joe

Wayne, here also 1 year or 15,000 miles on my 2001 ISL. I think the interval changed with oil and filter quality improvements over the years. I know my part number for my oil filter just changed again this year with a few internal improvements (Fleetguard filter) aftermarket still the same part number from several revisions ago, not sure if the internals have changed. I only use Fleetguard (OEM Cummins) on this coach. The part that is tuff for me I only put 5000 miles a year on this unit so I never get my money out of the service.

Obedb, my coach has a Fleetguard FS1015 separator before the lift pump with a clear bowl on the bottom (and a one way check valve on the housing between the tank and pump) and a Fleetguard FS1022 after the lift pump(before the injection pump) And I hear you on the rear radiator, as much as I like keeping things simple the side mounted fan does help when you are performing maintenance or a repair. It's a toss-up, side mounted you lose storage and more things to go wrong, rear mounted more difficult to work on. I am sure your unit is as bad as mine to get underneath and my Roadmaster chassis jack stand locations are always in your way, every time I crawl under it which is an entire process to prep for I always end up talking to myself with some choice words, on a good note it reminds me why I left the new truck dealership 12 years ago that use to work on these daily . Racor makes a great filter, I have cut many of each open and the Racor, Donaldson, and Fleetguard (might all be made by Racor, I'm not sure) were all constructed with attention to detail inside and Racor is the OEM filter manufacture for a few automobile manufactures with strict requirements.

Royclem, thank you for the information, we were thinking about a trip up there soon and this was on my list. I always hesitate when traveling to a place with mixed reviews (as most have). Joe

Obedb, I have two filters on mine, but they are to the left and right of the engine and very easily to get at, easier then adding oil. I also thought about installing a kit. I saw on a 5.9 Cummins with two fuel filters and a lift pump, since my pump is on the engine and the fuel tank has 38' of suction line going to the back it seemed to make sense. I was going to put it above the fuel tank which would make the serviceability very simple. My Cummins rep talked me out of it and told me to replace my fuel pump since it had several updates that made it much stronger with better suction capabilities. I figured it ran for the last 12 years this way without problems why redesign the fuel system and possibly cause another problem, plus that kit was expensive.

Woofer01, I have-- those are a standard on most Ambulances on a Ford E450 or GMC 4500 Savanna chassis. While I have not experienced problems on those vehicles I did have them chafe on my wheel simulators on the Class C I used to own. The Ambulance only runs short distances while an RV runs long distances at highway speeds. My class C was a Ford chassis and it had the small holes in the wheels for those to pass through not like the photo above, which Ford changed to in the mid 2000's (2008 I believe). I ended up sliding a rubber hose over the part where it came through the wheel and placing a wire tie to hold it in place, while driving the hoses would flex and bang against the simulator which caused two to fail on me. My TPMS system saved me both times. The coach we have now I have solid extensions that utilize a rubber grommet on the outer wheel for support.

KURTDEN, are you sure you have an "aftercooler"? I have not seen one of those until recently in a 2011 Ford F550 6.7L Powerstroke before that it was mid 80's. Rule of thumb an aftercooler is not in line with the radiator, an innercooler is (usually sits in front of the radiator to allow air to pass through to cool the air charge to the engine) and will usually only have the duct piping to and from the turbocharger while an aftercooler uses the cooling system to cool the air charge being fed into the engine. Your coach and mine should be very similar and I do not have an aftercooler.

Thanks Herman, I met a few folks at Hershey in the FMCA booth. I can't seem to find their information, but they were members to our local chapter, if I wait until September at hershey the season will almost be over. Thanks, look forward to hearing from you

Herman, can you guide me to my local chapter? I was going to wait until the Hershey show and ask at the booth. I live between Philadelphia and Harrisburg PA in the heart of PA dutch country Lancaster County. Thank you

Obedb I like your idea of the test jar! I will have to give that a try. Thanks for a great idea.

George, do you have an auto start stop feature on the generator? The only reason I ask is I just had this problem with ours, my batteries were full and the generator would shut down before the a/c units had a chance to turn on. I thought I had a problem but the auto off feature was set to 98% of battery life and it was doing just as it should, I assumed it would know the a/c was on but it didn't. My guess is the roof tops had not turned on yet so there was not enough of a load. Once I disabled the auto feature everything worked fine. Lessons learned here. Joe

Medico, thank you! I figured ours out tonight, after reading your post today I was determined to figure this out and make it right. By the way love your coach, very sharp unit. We have an HWH series 600. Step 1. Check air pressure I was at 100 psi engine off, I figured this was enough to complete the task at hand. Step 2. I manually leveled the coach with the up and down arrows, verified with a level on the kitchen floor I was level. Both slides were out. Step 3. With the air system on I had two yellow lights on in the front and right side, (this means the system thinks we are not level when we actually were) I located the leveling sensor (that was the hardest part of this simple task) (looks like a UFO with a wiring harness, three screws and springs between the ceiling and the body of the sensor). Ours was located in the ceiling of the same bay as our inverter, under the kitchen. Step 4. My wife sat in the drivers seat and I adjusted the screws until the yellow lights went out. Step 5, Verification: I purposely changed the position of the unit, dumped the air bags, and pressed the air switch twice and it leveled. My back up compressor turned on which I never knew it worked since I never have heard this turn on. I was shocked how simple this was.

KURTDEN, all of the ones I looked at also listed Cummins OEM spec/perf but when I dug into it they really were not performing as well in a few areas, that threw up a few red flags and i walked away frustrated but happy i looked at them.

Not sure but it's pretty neat.

Kurtden, I called Monaco for ours as Brett recommended above, they were very helpful. Double check the specs for the Rotella ELC and compare to the Fleetgard Cummins OEM coolant. I just changed ours this year and I was unsuccessful locating aftermarket coolant that matched or exceeded the Cummins product, mostly PH and Alkalinity were off and did not meet the Cummins requirement, I do not recall if I looked at the Shell product. I bought the Cummins product pre mixed I felt saving a few bucks was not worth the risk since the wrong coolant could cost an engine down the road and seemed like a good investment. As far as getting the air out...if you have a friend that is a mechanic see if you can borrow his or her cooling system vacuum fill tool, or maybe rent one at a local auto parts store. It draws the cooling system into a vacuum and will draw coolant from the gallon jugs filling the entire system and when you are done there is no air in the system, also test your radiator cap, or just replace it, more cheap insurance, mine cost me $8.00. I cannot speak for the ISC but double check, it might have a coolant filter, if so be sure to change it also, since the coolant is new you should not one with the "pre charge" pellets in it, but while you are on the phone with Monaco ask. The cooling system is large and I drained each section I.e. Radiator, heater core, engine and blew 8psi of shop air through the Aquahot and hoses since our cooling system is routed through that also, it was a dirty job but I can sleep better knowing the engine is protected properly. Good luck, happy travels!

rfsod48, I second what Rich said above. We have experienced this at least four times...and yes the same campground on two different occasions. I have a surge protector that hangs from the tower and will shut the coach off when voltage drops to low or surges to high. Inside the coach I have a device that plugs into an outlet (digital line monitor) that will set off an audible alarm when there is a voltage problem as a back up. Once one sounds off or the power goes out from the device on the tower I shut the tower off, pull the plug, start the generator and call the office. I almost lost our last coach due to this problem, the voltage dropped....amperage spiked and the breaker panel in the coach started to melt the neutral wiring, thankfully we were in the unit and had just finished eating breakfast when I noticed the electrical burning smell. Today I will not hook up to a tower unless my surge/spike protector gives the all OK (LED light). Good luck and don't trust the tower.

Rorytug, I had the Banks Power pack on our last coach (Class C Ford with the V10) while it did accelerate and pull stronger I didn't notice any fuel economy benefits, if anything it might have gotten worse. The Banks transmission programmer (Transcommand) paired up with a Bullydog deep aluminum pan was a huge improvement on my transmission temperature. Depending on the year of your coach you may only benefit from the deeper transmission pan. Let me clarify; if you have a 5 speed automatic with a tow haul button the programmer I doubt will do much for shift improvements and I am not sure it is even offered for that transmission (5R110 model), Ford had that model dialed in nice already. We had the older 4 speed (4R100 model) that would hunt for the right gear often and had a sloppy shift into each gear. If I had to do it all over I would have made the changes to the transmission and saved the rest of the money spent to put in the tank and hit the road.

My engine is a 2001 ISL. From what I was told by my Cummins rep the pump I have fit from 2001-2009 ISB,ISC,ISL,ISM,ISX. The pump is located behind the fuel injection pump toward the rear of the engine (back towards the transmission). I got lucky when I removed the 2nd floor access panel I was staring down at it. The dealer I bought the coach from paid for the pump, I just installed it, their tech didn't want to do it, nor did I trust him. I believe it was around $340.00.

I noticed the swivel also, but you have to wonder with the weight of the car is there is a teflon pad under so the car's weight does not make it bind? I could see the car's weight playing a big part on this making the upper table bind and jamb.

judielarry, I had a similar problem just after we bought our coach last year (used). It started to lose power and I got lucky as I was backing into the driveway at home when it got bad, about 5 feet from my garage it stalled only cranked...no start. I pulled the fuel water separator to find a black jelly substance in and on top of the primary fuel filter when I pulled it down; the jelly had a texture like shredded rubber and Jam that you would put on toast. I thought it was Algae but it turned out to be the fuel lines under the coach were deteriorating and it was the rubber from within the fuel lines. Brett saved me (Wolfe 10) when he explained how my fuel system was laid out, so it was easy to diagnose and put my head around what was happening. My fuel system operates off of suction through the primary filter, then goes to a pressure pump on the engine, then onto a fine particle fuel filter on the opposite side of the engine bay and then to the fuel injection pump. So when the main supply line from the tank to the first fuel filter failed I was also pulling in air which is why it stalled (filter was almost empty). If you have a lift pump closer to the tank you may not stall but will push all of that junk into your filter which will cause low power, eventually you should see a fuel leak somewhere between the fuel tank and the first filter. The more I snooped around in the storage areas I could smell Diesel fuel, I lowered down the ceilings to replace the fuel lines and noticed the supply line had beads of fuel on it. My coach was plumbed with Hydraulic hose for both the suction and return lines, I measured the distance and gave myself a few extra feet, went to our local hydraulic hose store and had them make me new lines, running them was a task but I was able to get it done on a Saturday. I was a Diesel Tech for 16 years so I had the tools to complete such a task. I also replaced the fuel pump on the engine, according to Cummins it has been revised 5 times over the years for problems, I changed it just so I wouldn’t have to deal with it, depending on the year of your coach it may be the same pump as i recall it fit many years and several different engines. My experience is after an engine sits the debris will drop off of the inside of the filter and sink, after you run it and create suction it will eventually pull the debris back onto the filter element partially blocking it resulting in a lack of power .

jegall, I recommend reaching out to the manufacture, I looked over the dolly on their website and it looks pretty straight forward, no crazy designs etc. Not much different than the one we use to have. I can say I never experienced this problem with the brand we had a few years back. The other concern is we have several hundred tow dollies where I work for rentals and I have never heard of a strap breaking (other than abuse) and even that was rare. Good luck and please post back with their recommendation, I am curious to hear their thoughts, and someone else may have an experience like yours. I have a connection at another manufacture...if the answer you get doesnt work P.M. me, I will be glad to reach out to my friend at other brands engineering and ask if they have any suggestions or ideas from their product testing R&D department.

What brand dolly do you have? Are you pulling forward when this happens or trying to back up with the car on it?

jegall Welcome to the FMCA forum! Check your dolly, it will either have an upper deck that is supposed to turn when you turn or it has steering that will turn when you drive around a corner. When they are being tranported (no car) there is a pin to either lock the steering or the upper deck, I suspect the pin is still holding the steering or deck from moving. Joe