tireman9

You didn't provide the numbers. The % or psi increase can be used as a rough indication of how correct your cold inflation is based on your actual load. It's hard for me to guess as your "1 psi" margin might be the result of a pressure increase of 10 psi or of 20 psi. If you are seeing a pressure increase of 20% you need to have things checked out.add link What were your TPMS Temperature and pressure readings in the AM before you started driving and before the tires were in direct sunlight? What were the readings 2 hours later? It would help me if you could also provide tire size, Load on each end of each axle if you have a tag. Here is a link to posts related to temperature and pressure growth. HERE is a post on Max pressure.

Hopefully, you are adding less than 5 psi only a couple times a season OR LESS. If more or more frequently I think you may have a problem and it should be fixed. I would also hope you are running a +10% cushion above the minimum inflation needed for your coach based on your measured load on the heavy end of each axle. For example, 275/80R22.5 LR-H is rated 6,610 @ 120 psi I recommend a +10% cushion but you should not exceed the 120 on the tire sidewall. 90% of 120 = 108psi At 105 the capacity is 5,980# and at 110 the capacity is 6175 so if your measured heavy load is between 5,981 and 6,175 your minimum psi should be 110 psi and your set morning CIP would be 110 + 10% of 110 or 121 but you don't exceed 120. I would consider a working range of 5 psi so as long as you have 115 to 120 psi all is good. You would only need to add 5 to psi if and when the CIP drops below 115. If your load is lower than 5,981 to 6,175 you could, of course, have a lower CIP but you should still have a cushion in the +10% range. If your measured load is above 6,175 then you need to shed some weight or up size your tires or shift some weight from the heavier loaded area to a lighter loaded area of the RV.

For 19.5 and 22.5 size tires If you need to add more than 15% of the pressure needed I would rely on a service truck. If you have lost that much air there is some problem that needs to be fixed and just adding air will not fix whatever caused the air loss in the first place.

I have addressed the topic of TPMS "Accuracy" HERE I have also done some calibration checks after my seminars at a few FMCA Conventions using my digital gauges that are accurate to =/- 0.5 psi when checked against ISO laboratory gauge What we see is that about 10% of the gauges are off by more than 5 psi at the 80 psi level I use as a standard Some are off by 10 psi or more ! NOTE simply paying more for a gauge is no confirmation that the gauge is accurate. My three "Master gauges only cost $10 each HERE is a post on my test results.

Can black tire “covers” be used without causing damage?I have done tests over the years comparing the temperatures of tires shielded from the sun with white vinyl covers versus no covers versus (in a rough check) black plastic. I have observed (at Redmond and other conventions) some Class A RVs with what appears to be a mesh shield that hangs down off the side of the RV, as opposed to the vinyl “bag” that hangs directly over the outside of tires. This summer after the Indianapolis Convention I was given the opportunity to test a black mesh Tire Shade from ShadePro, Inc. You can read the test results on my blog HERE

I watched the video on the liquid balancer. Lots of claims. If they were true this stuff would be used by OE vehicle companies as they would kill for improved fuel economy. The stuff may work as an alternative to standard balance weights but IMO the other claims fall in the category of "Use this and there will be MAGIC" Also, it may be possible to remove most of the liquid but I have serious reservations about the ability to do proper tire puncture repair after this is all over the tire interior.

The key issue is to prevent moisture from being in contact with the tires. If outside protect tires from exposure to UV If indoors keep tires away from electric motor or any other source of Ozone.

For those that have weights, I would appreciate it if you could post or PM me the "4 corner" numbers and if you also have CAT scale axle only numbers I would be interested to see how well they match. I have 4 corner on my coach. I also get axle reading once a year to confirm I do not have "weight creep" that might necessitate another 4 corner weighing.

I have never used the rubber "bushings" as they do not provide a fixed firm mounting for the end of the hose. When installing the "L" bracket just be sure the hose is not touching the wheel simulators. My hoses have never shown any sign of contact or rubbing with the wheel or simulators. NOTE the pictures were taken with my TPMS sensor not shown as I happened to take these when the RV was parked for the Winter.

RE mounting tires w/DOT "out" This is not an issue if the dealer provides you with the DOT noted on the tire invoice and if they give you the tire registration form as they are supposed to do. If you don't know about tire Registration you should. Read about it HERE. I have seen a suggestion that you keep tire DOT info on your smartphone and I have previously suggested this info should be kept with other important info and papers. Tire invoice is important if you ever have a warranty issue. Don't forget that "out of the duals is not the same as for the fronts.

My goal was to try and help fellow FMCA members have a single place to go ( this forum thread) to get the latest info on what toll roads were 100% electronic. I know that Massachusetts Turnpike (I90) is as are two tunnels and a bridge near Boston. I believe there are some roads in TX that are "cashless" but do not know which. There may be other roads that are also "cashless" as I have heard a report on IL and IN but do not know for sure. I am hoping that those members who know the facts will post the information.

I would take RT 62 N to Canton, then I77 N to I76 East. Go East on 76 to Ohio Rt 11 (small detour in Youngstown) then North on 11 to I90 and NE to Niagra This will miss the congestion in and near Cleveland.

Have you had problems with Electronic Toll Collection or ETC? The Aug FMCA magazine had an article on toll collection in some states. E-ZPass is used in Northeast states. Other states use different systems. Some folks report problems of no good advance notice on some toll roads that the tolls will be collected by tracing your vehicle license number and mailing you a bill along with a "Service Fee". You can help your fellow members by posting the requirements on roads you know about. Please make the first line in the post about the State, Road, and date For example Mass, I90, Aug 2017 Then you can add details such as "Mass TPK is now 100% ETC" More info at EZDriveMA.com Hopefully, this thread will become a place to go to find the latest info on ETC for FMCA members. Thank you in advance for your contribution.

Until you can get "4 corner weights" I suggest getting individual axle weights. Then assume one end is carrying 53% of the total. Use that number when consulting the Load Infl tables. That's your minimum cold inflation but I also suggest you add 10% (but not exceed tire max) to give a margin. I also suggest you start reading my RV Tire Blog. Also put Perry GA next March on your calendar and come to both of my RV tire seminars.

Yes, people can have problems with flex hoses. But it is also possible to be pushing close to 100k with using hoses on 3 different vehicles with no problem as I have. IMO the key with hoses has a few steps. The outer end MUST be firmly attached to the hub or wheel. I do not trust the rubber donuts as they do not firmly hold down the outer end of the hose. Do not over or under tighten the hose onto your metal valve stem. I find that tighten till no air leaks then go 1/4 to 1/2 turn more. Check with a spritz of soapy water or household cleaner that will show bubbles. Finally be sure to support the hose whenever adding or checking air pressure. Simply pushing on the end of the hose can weaken and possibly fail the hose mount. I also prefer the pressurized hoses over the "airless" hoses as the long inner rod in the airless style, can bend and malfunction.

Here is graphic of dual spacing The OP was looking at going from 275/80R 22.5 to 295/75R 22.5 which is a change from 12.24 spacing to 13.19. You may need to think in reverse. Let's assume that with the 275's you have a physical 1.00" clearance down at the bulge in the sidewall near the road. This dimension is controlled by the offset of the wheels. So if you don't change wheels and put wider 295's on the new clearance will be 1.00 - ( 13.19 - 12.24) or 1.00-0.95 or a final clearance of 0.05"

It is illegal to sell or operate tires on public highway that do not have the DOT symbol molded on a tire sidewall. RE tiers. While quality statements are not used in the ranking as there is no cross company tire quality comparison test. IMO I think it is reasonable to use the ranking level as the cumulative opinion of hundreds of tire dealers and fleet owners on the relative quality and durability of the different brands of tires.

Good info on tire brand availability. I have heard some good reports on Sailun brand. RE DOT Regs. The is only one set of regs ( passenger, LT , trailer and truck have their own section, for any tire with the symbol DOT.

I also thought the "flap" would seal and guide the water away but in my case the "flap" ended up pointing inward and created a funnel to guide the water inside the coach above the gear rack as seen in my "before" pictures. I had applied a slide seal lube spray but that did not help keep the lips pointed outward. Maybe there are other designs for seals that need different approach. I'm happy with my "fix" for my design seals.

Glad you have confirmed your new tires meet the "Minimum Dual Spacing" requirement. The simple tire comparison web site is reasonable for cars and Light trucks but they only offer an approximation and do not tell you the Minimum Dual Spacing. A failure to consider this dimension can lead to tire "kissing" and potentially two failures. 255/80R22.5 have a MDS of 11.30" and 275/80R22.5 have MDS of 12.24 Since the spacing is controlled by the wheel offset it is sometimes possible to make such a change if the wheels were designed for the wider tire but used by the RV company for the narrower tire.

Without seeing the actual tire specification from the tire plant I can't know for sure but increased Load Range does not always translate into stiffer ride (at the same inflation). Just because a tire can hold a higher inflation does not mean the ride will be stiffer. To hold the air pressure a tire needs higher tensile capacity in the sidewall. Tire steel cords are pretty flexible in bending. When you selected the Sailun tires did you confirm the warranty and get a list of locations that could provide a replacement tire if you ever get a non-repairable puncture? Unrelated to the tires, Did you also get the rubber parts of the bolt in valves replaced too. We all know that the rubber in tires can "age out" but few people remember that other rubber components in an RV also can age out. New "O-rings or gaskets for the valves is low cost insurance and making a change when you get new tires makes it easier to remember when you made the valve rubber change.

Many seem to understand the 7 to 10 year life of rubber in tires but seem to forget all the other rubber components in a MH. Rubber is organic and unlike inorganic parts has a limited life. Your slide seals are 15 years old so ys, it's about time.

I took a look at sales volumes from RVIA. Basically Motorhomes account for about 12% of total RV market with Class=A half of that percent. How many current FMCA owners started out with a Class-A as their first RV? Might it be possible to grow rather than shrinking our membership if we didn't turn our back on 90% of the RV owners? Look at current attendance trends for FMCA events. Attendance numbers are not growing. Our last 4,000 attendance was ten years ago. I can't even imagine a Convention with 5,000 never mind 7,000

There are a number of potential causes of water leaks around a slide-out. One cause is that the slide seals do not properly "flip" when the slide is run out. This can actually create a funnel effect that aims water toward the interior. I discovered this on my coach while at FMCA Int'l at Indy. As a design engineer I decided to just eliminate the problem by ensuring the seals "flip" and point out when the slide is out. "Folded flap" shows one side of slide with much of the flap still folded inward. "Folded Flap 2" is other side of slide and even the top part of the flap is not flipping out. I found some 15/16" x 8' polystyrene batten wall molding (Lowes #1422) that had a nice rounded profile and is only 3/16" thick so the flaps can slide over the molding easily. After applying some exterior grade 3M double sided tape and locating the inner edge of the flap when the slide was slid in. Note the rubber marks seen to right of molding in picture "RV flap guide 1" I attached some pieces of the molding that would be inboard of the flaps when the slide was fully in. I angled the molding so it would gently "roll" the flap outward when the slide moves out. End results are seen in "RV Flap guide" & "RV Flap guide 2". You can see the flaps are fully out and should direct any rain away from the seals. Total cost about $12. No special tools required as the Polystyrene molding cuts with a utility knife. Just be sure the sides of the slide are clean with no wax or dirt so the tape has best chance of staying attached.

While it is good to know the weight of the car on the dolly, what is really needed is the total weight on the dolly tires. Next time you get fuel I suggest you run across a scale and get just the weight on the dolly axle with the Jeep on the dolly. What is the DOT serial date on your dolly tires? What inflation do you set the dolly tires at? I also suggest you get 2 more TPMS sensord for your system and add the dolly tires to the monitor. While you are at it you might also add 2 sensors to the rear tires of the Jeep so all your tires on the ground are being monitored (RV, Dolly & Jeep)