richard5933

Our 35-foot coach gets around 7-8 mpg. Fuel economy was not on our list of concerns. #1 concern was safety. #2 concern was having a vehicle which would fit where we needed it to go and which would get in/out of our driveway. #3 concern was getting something which fit our desire to have an older and more unique vehicle.

Site was totally down for me for a few hours yesterday afternoon. Seems like there might be a server issue of some sort. After a while, it let me into the site, but the member login was not functional.

A friend of me has similar issues driving due to a stroke when he was younger. He found a few adaptive driving business which specialize in making vehicles function with a number of different disabilities. The restriction he found most often was getting a vehicle large enough to allow the modifications to be made. I imagine that wouldn't be a problem in a Class A. I'd suggest that you check your health care team for recommendations for one of these adaptive driving companies in your area. They should be at least able to get you headed in the right direction. If my understanding was correct, you may find help from the health insurance company on the needed adaption. It sucks that you have to go through this, but it seems to me that continuing to drive the Class A will not be one of the bigger issues.

Not sure where you're coming from here, and I'm going to assume that you weren't trying to insult anyone even though on first reading it did come across as such. I'm not looking for you to hire me for anything and I'm not looking for your approval on my opinions. I was (and still am) expressing my opinion on the recent events, plain and simple. I joined an organization whose purpose was to serve the needs of motor home owners. Now the organization has made a drastic change. I have nothing against anyone that owns a pull-behind, I have nothing against camping with them, and I will hold no hard feelings against anyone that joins in the future who doesn't own a motor home. However, I am disappointed that the focus of FMCA has changed. Last I looked, everyone who joined prior to the change is entitled to either like or dislike the change. You're entitled to disagree with how I feel about things. No one here should be criticized, however, because someone disagrees with his/her opinion.

Regardless of what type of awning he has, my point still holds. Many of the things that can go wrong on an awning are user serviceable. I was trying to help him get it fixed without having to call a repair tech. The key is identifying what type of awning and contacting the people with the answers. When our Zip Dee broke (similar symptoms to what the OP described) the service guy at Zip Dee walked me through bypassing the lock so I could use the awning with no additional expense. Being on a limited fixed income doesn't mean that the OP didn't buy a 30-year-old unit with a Zip Dee or some other top tier awning on it. Of course, there ARE a few parts of awning that can be dangerous, so it's important to fully understand what you're doing before attempting repairs (like to the spring side of the main tube, etc).

Again, without knowing the awning type or brand it's hard to say for sure, but we replaced the locking mechanism on our Zip Dee without too much effort. The Zip Dee has the lock on one end and the spring on the other so we did not have to undo the spring. If you have a Zip Dee call them and get advice. Their customer service is great, and the replacement parts come with detailed directions. However, if you have a different brand then I'm not really sure that this applies.

I've watched with great sadness and disappointment as so many organizations evolve over the years to try and be all things to all people, losing their essence in the process. The same happens all the time with retail outlets, and the results are the same. My mother used to say to us as kids that we should 'always remember to dance with the one that brung you". I can see how she'd be shaking her head right now in utter disappointment as FMCA moves away from the people and the reason it exists. Maybe another organization will rise from the ashes and serve the needs of those driving motor homes, not pulling them behind a pickup. Of course there are similar aspects of pull-behind RVs and motor homes, and of course there are similar aspects of camping that we all share. But, driving a 35-foot 27000-pound vehicle across the country is nothing at all like pulling a pop-up trailer behind the family mini van. Unless FMCA can continue to serve the needs of those of us driving a motor home our membership will be a short-lived one.

We're newer members and newer coach owners. We joined FMCA since it was an organization which focused its membership on a specific type of vehicle. I'm surprised and disappointed at the results. FMCA has now become just another all-purpose organization in the RV world. My fear is that it will now lose its identity and reason for being around and just fade into the mix. Not sure if we'll renew next year, but the results of this vote have us definitely leaning towards not renewing.

We had a similar problem with our Zip Dee. Was easy to fix. Please let us know what brand and type of awning your have. If you can post a photo of the offending latch/lock that would help us help you.

Please post back if you have success with Base Camp. I've always found the software 'extras' that Garmin offers somewhat frustrating, and I'd love to find out if it's just me or if the software just has limitations. Based on my past experience it's likely to be a 'just me' issue.

Wow - $800 for one tire? We paid about half of that for the tires on our coach from Goodyear, and odds are they are a lot larger than what you replaced. I know it's off topic a tad bit, but this is a good reason to always have a spare mounted and ready. Emergency service is probably the most expensive way to have to purchase a tire. I'd never want to change a tire and install the spare myself, but it would sure save having to pay emergency service markup for the tire. If you had the tires in the Texas sun and possibly had the reflected UV rays from the windows adding to the damage, it's not totally surprising that the tire failed earlier. One of the things on our pre-trip inspection is to examine all seven tires. I like to get close and personal with our tires to do this. I need a flashlight to find the inner valve stems on the rear duals, so I take the opportunity to inspect all sides of the tires with the flashlight while I've got them out. Sometimes the extra light is needed to see the early signs of cracking between the treads or alongside other lines molded into the tires. I tend towards OCD, but in this case I think it's a good thing.

Haven't found an app yet that I liked, but the Garmin 760 seems to be a good unit for us. It is aimed at RV owners, and the user sets a profile with the dimensions and weight of the RV. When the Garmin sets a route it configures it with the vehicle perimeters. When I've driven without using the Garmin to set the route first, it will inevitably start screaming at me about weight restrictions, height restrictions, etc. That's why I try never to go anywhere in the bus without first setting the route - just to easy to make a casual 'shortcut' turn only to find myself on a road with a weight restriction I was unaware of.

Not a question that few of us put enough miles on our tires to actually run down the tread enough for that to be the primary reason for replacement. My point was in response to a post from someone that has not moved their trailer in three years. From my reading, sitting in one place and not actually going down the road from time to time is bad for tires. Without a proper study I could not quantify this, but I have read that the compounds in the rubber do better if they are flexed and warmed from use, at least occasionally. Some tires are also prone to developing out-of-round issues if parked for extended periods of time in one place. Over the years I've restored and collected a number of vintage and classic cars. The one thing that universally seems to do the most damage to the vehicles overall, including everything from mechanical systems to rubber components such as tires/hoses/belts is lack of use. In 1993 I purchased a '68 Cutlass with only 2000 original miles. The tires looked brand new, but the rubber was stiff and hard and had definite flat spots. The vehicle was stored indoors and was preserved as well as could be, but some things on a vehicle just do better when they are used. Not trying to negate the effects of UV exposure (my tires are covered right now as best as can be), but to point out that there are many factors that contribute to premature tire failure. I'm sure there are industry studies on the topic, and I'll see what I can dig up online.

About the only thing missing from your equation to fully test things is movement. I've read on many manufacturer's websites that actually rolling down the road on the tires helps keep them from drying and cracking. Of course, rolling down the road causes tread wear... Would be interesting if we could find some research which shows the difference between life of a mounted/weighted tired in the sun vs. in the shade vs. stationary vs. in motion. This will be on my list to research when I have my next sleepless night. There's got to be something posted on this somewhere.

Sad as it seems, microwave ovens have largely become a throw-away item. We bought our last one for just over $100, and it was a pretty good unit. It would never pay to bring it for service when they can be replaced so inexpensively. Of course, our current coach has its original Thermador microwave, circa 1974. Still works. Any minute now I expect the time police to come ask for it back.

Everyone is free to heat their RV as they see fit. There are pluses and minuses of all the methods of heating any enclosed space. I am glad that some have had success using a non-vented heater to keep their RV warm, but just because things have gone well up to this point is not a guarantee of future success. From my reading, the current RVIA code does not permit non-vented propane appliances other than cook tops. Many states have adopted codes to prohibit the use of non-vented appliances. There are reasons for these restrictions. People die each year due to CO poisoning. All that said, we each take whatever risks we feel comfortable with. My advice would be to be sure to research the subject as much as possible and be sure to take all required precautions for heating your RV. Electric, vented, non-vented...there are risks associated with each and the best way to mitigate them is to know what they are.

Am I looking at this wrong, or is the hose holder laid out backwards? Would things drain better if the high end of the hose holder was on the RV side and sloped down towards the drain?

There are only a couple of options for traditional awnings on this bus due to the placement of windows, bay doors, etc. Only the Zip Dee can be installed following the contour of the body. That's what we had on our previous coach, and they came with the coach when we bought it. My hesitation about adding traditional awnings to this bus are not due to any 'rules' but rather to personal preference. I really like the look of the bus as is, but want to try and have the option of a shaded outdoor area when we're camping. I have seen some removable awnings on smaller trailers which slide into a track, and I am hoping that there is something of this nature which would work on a vehicle as large as ours.

We're interested in adding an awning to our coach. The exterior is a bone stock 1974 GMC bus, and we are hesitant to add a Zip Dee or other type of permanent awning since it will change the look and require moving the upper side marker light. Anyone have any ideas for a removable awning? Maybe something that easily slides into a track when we want to sit outside? We've already considered the pop-up shelters, but we thought that something which attaches to the bus when we're camping would be more stable. Or, maybe some type of awning which is very slim and discreet when not in use?

Correct. That's why I pointed out that the ones I got were molded plastic. That said, they look 100% better than the flat ones being sent to new members. Also, they won't suffer the pitting and discoloration of aluminum. In the research I did they were the best looking option available at a reasonable price. If someone want the vintage aluminum ones for a vintage vehicle or something, then they'll probably have to have one custom made.

Here's the link: http://www.kileymold.com/ They do all the plates for FMCA

Catalytic heaters (Or any type of LP heater which does not vent the exhaust gases to the outside and supply outside air to the burner) run the risk of 1) depleting the O2 in the RV, and 2) causing a dangerous situation with carbon monoxide. The extra moisture would be the least of my worries sleeping inside a closed space with one of those running. A carbon monoxide monitor would be a must. Hopefully the unit itself has a low-O2 shutdown built into the control.

I just had a set of the molded style plates made. Follow the link on the FMCA website and order them directly from the molding company. They are molded from plastic - black with white lettering - and they look much nicer than the flat ones. They were not that expensive, but I don't remember how much since we also ordered a set of decals for our destination board.

Final followup... Sun was shining enough today to make it bearable to work outside. I got the furnace back into the coach today. Surprisingly things went pretty well, and other than a bit of frustration trying to get all the ducts and intake/exhaust lined up there were no problems. LP connections did not produce any bubbles on the leak test. The fan kicked on both with 12v and 120v, and it stayed on after the burn until things cooled down. The burner had a nearly pure blue flame, and the pilot looked good. Thermostat seems to do its job. Best part was that the CO monitor read "0" the entire time I was conducting tests. Got the panel in the wardrobe above the furnace put back in, and was even able to staple down a nice piece of carpet to replace the one that was sacrificed in order to get the panel removed. Best part?? The furnace warms the coach nicely and runs quietly. Total cost for the repair was $100 for the motor and another $25 for the replacement crossover tube. Unless I'm missing something, I think that I'll classify this as a successful project.

I would never encourage or suggest that anyone take actions which are contrary to the instructions of the manufacturer's. Everyone should do what they feel is best for their situation. I was just pointing out that for me, I'll do what I can do reasonably and then be willing to suffer whatever the consequences are. Some years the winters here are pretty brutal, and I'll consider myself lucky just to start the engine and move the coach a couple of times through the winter. Some people have more ideal conditions to park on. Our situation with a gravel driveway on a slope is not ideal, and for me it's just not worth the extra challenge of trying to complicate an already difficult parking situation. Weeds are cut, gravel is solid and packed, air pressure is topped off, and the UV blocking tire covers will be in place. Anything beyond that is gravy. I guess that I was trying to point out that we each do what we can reasonably do. This is supposed to be a fun thing, owning a motor home. For us, when the work and worries outweigh the joy and pleasure we have to decide what's most important for us to worry about.