richard5933

We do use ours differently than you. We'll leave the coach sit until we're ready to use it. The over-the-road heat and a/c work well so we can be at a comfortable inside temp within a short time. However, the stuff inside the coach can take a while to fully be at the same temp. If we leave for a campsite at mid day with outside temps of 40 degrees, the coach will be comfortable to sit in in 30 minutes or less - usually by the time the engine is fully warmed and the luggage is loaded. The mattresses, however, may not be warmed up by the time we get where we're going. Then there are the times we will boon dock in cooler weather and not even bother to turn on the heat till the morning when we're up and around. The temp inside could get down cool enough to affect the mattress firmness. In the summer we don't bother running the a/c while we're not in the coach, since it really doesn't take too long to cool down unless it's really warm. Many nights we don't even run the a/c since it cools off nicely here in the summer most nights. But, if the temp was higher during the day the mattress will be somewhat soft (and warm) when we hit the pillow. Overall we like the memory foam, but there are some disadvantages.

Wow - that's a bunch of money for tags. Here in Wisconsin people are always griping about being a high-tax state, but my tags are only about $120/year. And I registered the bus for being under 80,000 pounds. (We're only 27,700 lbs, but the cost was the same all the was to 80,000 for motor homes so I had them put the max so we'll never worry about being over our registered weight.)

Any mattress that fits should work, but you'll need to keep in mind the weight and thickness. If you have a tilting or lifting bed then you don't want a mattress heavier than the mechanism is designed for. You also should check the thickness to be sure that a thicker mattress doesn't block nearby drawers or doors from opening. We've got a memory foam mattress but there are times when it can be a problem since it's temperature sensitive. Harder and stiff till the coach warms up on the first day out, and it gets softer if the coach gets too warm.

My first call would be to the manufacturer. I can't believe that they didn't build in some type of manual over ride for this, otherwise lots of owners would eventually get locked out. You can't be the first owner that had a a dead battery situation. Have you tried to connect an external charger and plug it in to get the house system operational? Not sure how to do it on your coach, but there should be a way to do this once you get the batteries back in place.

Glad that I'm not the only one awake through the early-morning hours. With only 35 feet in length and a pretty tight turning radius, every time we weighed getting a Class B or C against the coach we just couldn't justify the loss of space and comfort. We don't pull a toad, but so far we haven't found places we either couldn't take our rig or get to by Uber/taxi. Sometimes I have to remind myself that our 35-foot coach is actually smaller than most city buses in use today, and they seem to have no problem getting into some pretty tight spaces. I think that parallel parking and ground clearance are our only two big obstacles.

Our '74 GMC coach has three separate 'basement' a/c units. One of them is the over-the-road a/c installed by GMC that would have been in the coach if it had been a bus. Its compressor is powered by the bus engine and the condenser unit and HVAC air handler fills an entire bay and is run from the 200+ amp alternator on the bus engine. It can certainly keep the interior frigid while on the road. However, it's useless when camping as we'd have to run the bus engine to use it. Many bus conversions delete the over-the-road a/c unit and have to run the generator to keep cool while on the road. I'm glad we have the over-the-road as well. The other two units are 1974 vintage basement RV units which were installed by Custom Coach. They have their compressors in the basement, each one being about the size of a small window a/c unit. There is a condensing unit & circulating fan mounted in the cabinetry in the bedroom and another in the front parlor. They can both be used when on generator or shore power. Not to confuse things, but our shore power is actually set up to run on a total of 60 amps incoming (probably a topic for another thread at another time). I only bring that up because I don't think we could run both a/c units on only 30 amps.

True if you have an older dryer connection. I think that around here code is now a 4-wire connection for dryers, so that would add even more confusion. It gets yet more confusing if someone mixes 3-wire and 4-wire systems together (older dryer with newer outlet, for example). Always best to confirm with an electrician if there is any doubt.

Sounds like this is working for you, but I'd suggest that it would be better to run the 30-amp service for the RV outlet from a dedicated 30-amp breaker in your load center. Piggy backing on another circuit, especially tapping 120v from a 240v circuit like this, just leaves too many possibilities for future problems and safety hazards. I'm no electrician, but I'd place money on it being a violation of the code in your area as well. If it's not possible to run new wiring for the RV outlet all the way to the main load center, then perhaps you can put a small sub-panel where the dryer outlet is currently located and then use that to power both the new RV outlet and the dryer outlet. You're trying to use the dryer outlet as a sub-panel, but it's not designed for this and doesn't give you the ability to place a breaker for the RV outlet. Using a sub-panel instead of piggy-backing would give each its own breaker. You could likely still use the wiring that previously serviced the dryer outlet to power the sub-panel, but you'd have to first check to see the rating/size of the wire. Sorry to rain on your parade.

Update: The tanks have been repaired/updated/refilled/re-installed. I performed the usual leak test with copious amounts of soapy water. The propane dealer installed new fill valves, POL (output) valves, relief valves, and did a re-certification on both tanks. I installed a new 2-stage regulator using new rubber hoses I had made at a local shop. A bit of information about this that I picked up in the process follows. It should be applicable throughout the US if the propane dealer's information is correct. Can't speak to any specific state requirements outside of Wisconsin though. There are two types of propane tanks in use on RVs. There are the DOT tanks and the ASME tanks. If a tank is permanently mounted in a horizontal position AND is an ASME tank, then it does not require re-certification. DOT tanks and anything not permanently mounted horizontally needs to be re-certified after the first 12 years and then every five years after that. The relief valves are good for ten years and should be replaced after that. I'm told that only tanks require certification, not hoses or accessories. Our tanks are over 40 years old. As far as we can tell, they have never been re-certified or worked on in any way. Doesn't even look like they were ever filled once leaving Custom Coach in 1974. Since our tanks are DOT tanks, they required re-certification. Other than the valve replacements, the tanks are in good shape and just have some typical surface scratches/rust. I don't anticipate having problems getting them filled in the future, as the dealer put the re-certification tags in a place which is easy to see. Each of our tanks holds 33 pounds of LP (just over 7 gallons liquid) and weighs in at over 70 pounds each when full including the weight of the tank. Not the lightest things around, but still manageable by one person. Cost of all we had done was as follows: Refilling: $50 Valve replacements and installation: $120 Taxes & Hazmat fee: $10 Regulator/hoses: $60 Total: $240 This was an unexpected expense, but in the scope of things it really wasn't too bad. In the end we have two safe tanks installed and filled. They will hopefully serve us well until the next re-certification in 5 years.

If you're talking about where is the outlet for you to plug in the block heater, then the answer is that it's different on almost every make/model. Some don't have an outlet at all. We have to run an extension cord right now to plug in the heater. Installing an outlet in the engine bay is on my list for this spring.

I think that you meant this as a different kind of tire overload, but that may actually be the best place to start the conversation. Especially if you are trying to decide between 16 and 18 ply (or load rating for the tires in general), I would say that getting a current weight on the coach is the place to start. Until you know the actual weight front & rear it will be very difficult to properly choose the load rating needed. If you get a tire with too high a load rating you're wasting money and getting a harsher ride than necessary. If you get too low a load rating then you put safety at risk. Once you know the load rating required, you can start comparing apples to apples from brand to brand. The only other piece of advice would be to find a good tire dealer near you that is not owned or associated with just one brand. Provide them with the information you have and ask for help selecting tires. You might spend a few dollars more in the end, but I've found that most dealers will work with you on price within reason. Best part of this is to establish a relationship with a shop that can help you when the inevitable problem arises down the road. There is nothing that can beat having a locally owned shop on your side when you need them.

If only two of the injectors had build up on them, would it be appropriate to check to see if everything is okay in those cylinders? Logically speaking, if this was caused due to a lack of something in the fuel (additives, etc) then wouldn't the build up be present on all the injectors and not just two?

Not quite in Kansas City, but there is a nice state park in Lawrence KS with hookups.

Is this a state-by-state rule regarding tagging of hoses? I had the new hoses made today, and the guy said that there is no requirement to tag hoses. He seemed to imply that doing so was not possible, and that only the tank would need certification. I've got the new hoses and a new 2-stage regulator all ready to mount. Tomorrow I'll be picking up the tanks, but of course the temps are forecast to be in the teens until the end of next week. Might be a few days until I actually get these things installed and leak tested.

I appreciate the suggestions on various ways to fill the tanks or use portable tanks, but the reality is that the only thing using the propane in the coach is the furnace. I suspect that the two tanks combined will take us longer than we'll be staying in one place and our plan right now is to just fill the LP tanks as needed when we stop for diesel or to dump our black tank. I'm not looking forward to reinstalling the tanks once they are serviced and filled. Can't imagine that I'd want to make this a regular habit. Even if they did remove easily, and even if they weren't so darned heavy, we don't travel with a towed vehicle so it wouldn't do us any good. Before anyone questions why we travel without a towed vehicle, the answer is simple. We don't need one. The coach doesn't have slides or leveling jacks. On the occasion that we have to pull up anchor and run to town it really doesn't take all that long to get things going. And if we really don't feel like moving the coach, we just call an Uber or taxi.

You'd have to provide me with your definition of 'permanently installed' before I can really say. They were bolted in place and certainly not designed to be removed for filling. They have separate ports or filling and for the hose connection, and they appear to have never been removed since being installed. The hoses are not attached with quick-release, and the bolts were proper nut & bolt (not wing nuts). To me, they were certainly 'permanently installed' and mounted horizontal. If so, where do you see something that indicates certification being required? I will double check with the propane dealer when I pick up the tanks in a few days.

You can also try here: https://www.steelerubber.com/rv

Brief update... I got the two tanks taken to the propane dealer today. The tech said that they are in need of updating to comply with current DOT regs (and of course repair to the leaky valve). They are still in good condition overall and will not take too much to get up to snuff so that they are safe to continue using. After the repair/upgrades they'll fill them so I can just reinstall and be done. Sounded like I'd end up with a re-cert, even though technically speaking horizontal tanks don't require such if permanently mounting according to the info I found. Interesting mounting method used on these tanks. They each have a metal ring on the 'bottom' of the tank (as seen if stood up vertically). The compartment which holds these two tanks horizontally has cradles in it. The tanks slide into the compartment lengthwise resting in these cradles. At the back of each cradle is a round wooden disc sized perfectly to mate with the bottom of the metal base on the tanks. When they are slide in, only one bolt is necessary at the front to secure them in place. I love it when simple solutions like this work so well. I'll try and remember to take a couple of photos when I remount the tanks. Regarding the hoses/regulator... The propane dealer directed me to another shop in town that does LP equipment, hoses, etc. I'm going over there on Thursday to have two new hoses made up to the correct length to replace the current rubber hose and the hard copper tube. I'll also upgrade to a new 2-stage regulator. After all this things should be good to go. Sure is nice to have local shops that can get this stuff taken care of. Milwaukee was once called "The Machine Shop to the World." Good thing enough of the old places are still around that it's quite easy to find places to work on things here.

Not sure how this works on a more modern coach than we have, but on ours it's really important to get the proper 'heavy duty' blades and/or refills if you want them to last more than a few months. There are regular duty blades out there that will fit your 24" wipers, but it's my experience that the regular duty blades just don't hold up to sun and wear. Wipers are not that expensive, even for the heavy duty varieties. That being so, I try to opt for the option that is least likely to fail.

According to the article cited, there is nothing about ceasing production of Diesel engines. It says only that the vehicle will be offered with gasoline engines in the US for the first time. Is there talk elsewhere of actually ceasing the Diesel offering? Or, are thy talking about adding an engine to the lineup and offering a choice?

In my experience, yes. When my step van had the fuel gel on the way to work I had to have it towed to a shop. They left in inside for a few hours and then were able to start it like normal. Then they could add the anti-gel additive and get it worked through the system. I could have tried blowing a torpedo heater at it, but it was just too cold to even bother that day. The joy of life in the north!

Thanks everyone for the information. I agree with Herman - the fill valve on the one tank is leaking and will be replaced. Can't do it right now since it's just too cold to work outside for more than a few minutes. As soon as I'm able, I'll pull both tanks along with the hoses and regulator and take the whole thing to a local propane dealer. I'll ask them to inspect and repair as necessary. If they can't repair, then we'll start the process of replacing. I'm pretty confident that the valve's rubber seals have just gotten hard and dry over the years, and the tech at the propane dealer agreed that it could be something as simple as this. Could also be something much more involved. Won't know till he sees the tanks, of course. Other than this issue, the tanks only show a little bit of wear and surface rust around the very outside parts of the handles. I would doubt that they've been used much and fortunately they are located in a dry bay and have not been exposed to weather. There are gauges on both tanks, and they appeared to function up to just a few weeks ago. The one tank whose gauge showed content a few weeks ago is the one that leaked, and at the moment it is showing nothing. I have a photo taken from when I first noticed the smell which showed '20' on the level. Now it shows '0'. Regarding the markings on the gauge itself, I don't read them as indicating the actual content of the tank. There are three lines to the text: Propane 50/50 Pro-Bu Butane To my reading, this is information about the rating of the gauge, not the content of the tank. There are other marking & instructions on the gauge about filling, etc. I will have to confirm this when I take the tanks in for service. That's all I got for now. I'll do my best to report back once I get the tanks in for service and have more information. Maybe others can benefit from whatever I learn.

Looks like the OP is in Michigan. Whether they are selling #1 or #2, any fuel sold this time of year should definitely have the proper winter additives in it to prevent gelling and temperature related problems. That said, if Michigan is anything like Wisconsin it should be possible to find #1 fuel at most major truck stops or even places like Kwik Trip. If your engine can run on #2 in the warmer weather, I'd suggest checking with the fuel dealer to see if the #2 they sell this time of year is winterized. I'd be surprised if it wasn't. One place I bought from said that in the winter they only sell #1, regardless of what the pump said. Maybe not the best example of truth in advertising, but at least they were trying to keep customers from having gelling and cold weather issues. Point is that it's important to look past the label on the pump and ask questions of the fuel dealer to see just what is being sold. I think that the bigger problem would be someone filling a tank in the south and then driving into the north where the temps are low. Without proper additives it could be an expensive trip when the fuel system stops up from gel formation. I make sure to add the proper amount of anti-gelling additive to the fuel starting in late fall so that it's well into the fuel lines and filters before any chance of cold weather is even on the horizon. Had problems with my step van (Cummins Diesel 4BT) the first year I owned it - it arrived from a southern dealer with summer blend in the tank and the lines were gelled stem to stern before it was rolled off the trailer. Happened again a short time later until I was able to get the old fuel fully worked through. I'd agree that adding kerosene to a modern diesel is probably not a great idea. Before trying that I'd want to have the manufacturer's recommendation for minimum fuel requirements. Same goes for selecting the proper additives. Some engines are very fussy and certain additives should be avoided. Any local farm store (around here Farm & Fleet or Fleet Farm) should have shelves of additives to choose from. Hope this helps.

Horizontal would be my first choice since that's what's in place at the moment. Should the tanks need replacing however, I'm seeing mixed information about whether or not it will be possible to find replacements that will fit into the space where the current tanks are kept. Most of the newer tanks I'm seeing have the fill valve located midway down one of the sides. I've got two tanks, stored one above the other, with only the ends exposed to the outside. They are very similar in appearance to forklift tanks. I'll need to find new tanks with a similar setup if I have to replace them. That's the main reason for considering vertical - more options and easier to retrofit with something other than what's in there now. I'm not in the mood to reconfigure half the coach just to position new tanks somewhere else, and there is surprisingly little unused space in the bays.

Just got back from the propane dealer in town, one that I trust. The valve is apparently leaking. Obviously it shouldn't be. Once the weather warms to the point I can work outside for at least a few minutes (still in single digit temps here) I will pull the two tanks and take them in for repair/inspection/etc. I'll bring the regulator along with me so that it can be inspected as well. My only concern with removing them is in getting the connections made again when I reinstall so that nothing leaks. I just don't seem to have good luck re-using fittings or resealing plumbing once it's opened. If the tanks are still deemed serviceable, I'll ask them to replace the plumbing (hoses) between the tanks and the regulator to minimize failure points. If necessary, I will replace with something else. By the way, these tanks do have a vapor tap and based on how the plumbing is connected I'd guess were designed to be refilled in place (not removed for filling). Not sure how that worked, and not sure if it can still be done that way. I suppose that the two horizontal tanks could be replaced with two vertical tanks if necessary. I'll have to take measurements to be sure and bring them along with me when I take the tanks in in case we go that route. Anyone know what the proper regulator setting is for these things? My only appliance running off of propane is the furnace, so I assume that I'll need to have them set the pressure regulator for that. If they are checking we might as well check everything. Oh - the joy of old machinery! If I didn't love it so much this would be a real pain.