richard5933

Not sure if this is something that plays nationwide, but up here in Wisconsin it's fish fry season. Part of what makes us who we are. It's a thing. Most always on a Friday night, sometimes also on Wednesdays. Best ones can often be found at lodges, bars, and hole-in-the-wall type places. As we travel around, we are always on the lookout for a good fish fry. The more unique and off-beaten the better. As long as we can get the bus within walking distance we'll consider the place an option. Thought I'd ask if anyone has any suggestions on places around the country.

Some inverters will be 'on' whenever they are connected to the battery bank, and they can draw down the batteries even when not being usef. That's why you sometimes see manual disconnect switches or automatic disconnect switches installed.

A whole other chapter could be added about rims/wheels. The should be inspected regularly for apparent damage, whenever the wheel is off the vehicle, and especially when the tire is off the wheel. Wheels can and do wear out, and damage can also be done be improper mounting techniques such as using a pneumatic gun to over tighten lug nuts. Aluminum wheels are of course more likely to be damaged from things like this, but even steel rims can be damaged. Add to that the occasional curb strike incident and it's not hard to understand. The ridge inside the edge of the wheel which holds the rim can also wear down. I've recently read about someone replacing his aluminum rims for this reason. Many people have no idea that wheels have a load rating and a maximum air pressure just like tires, and no matter what tire is installed it will never be safe if the wheel's rating is exceeded.

The big difference between a VSR and a diode-based isolator is that the VSR is two-way and the diode isolator is one-way only. In other words, when the VSR detects a charge on either side it will bridge the two battery banks. Once bridged, it current from the charger will flow to both battery banks together AND power will flow between the battery banks. If one battery bank is severely discharged it would be possible for it to pull current from the more charged battery bank leaving you with two somewhat discharged battery banks and taking much longer to charge things. If the house batteries are at 50% and are a larger battery bank than the smaller generator start battery, they'll also take all the charge from the charger while possibly also discharging the more charged generator battery. The diode based isolator will allow power to flow only in one direction - from the charging source to the two battery banks. It's not possible with a diode based isolator for current to flow between the batteries. For some situations where manual control is desired it's also possible to bridge battery banks using a manual switch or a latching relay switch which only draws current for the moment it's switching. Once switched, no current is used to hold position.

The advantage is when you regularly boon dock and have the possibility of running down the house batteries to where they won't start the generator. If someone didn't want to add the third battery, it would also be possible to install a manual way to bridge the chassis battery to the generator for emergency starting. Would just take some battery cable and a manual battery disconnect switch to make this work.

You can always just try a simple multi-meter to check the voltage at the battery in real time. Old school, but it would work. Do you have a start button in the engine bay? (It would sure make things more simple)

Have you tested it with the chassis battery only? Disconnect/shut off the coach battery and turn off the inverter. See if you can duplicate the problem while only running the chassis battery. If it's still there, then the problem is most likely with the electrical system in the chassis. I'd check the alternator and regulator (if you have one.) If you shut down the house systems and batteries and the problem goes away, then you know where the problem is. If your chassis battery is being over-charged it will do damage. Sure sign that either your alternator or regulator is not doing its job, or whatever the equivalent system is in your rig (computer control, regulator, etc.) Any truck shop should be able to diagnose a charging problem.

I've seen a few comments posted on other threads about tire pressure, load capacity, etc. which were concerning to me since I couldn't tell if they were based in science or just common practice. Rather than hijack the thread, I thought I'd start a new one. I've learned a few things in my time driving, and especially driving and working on our coaches, but I'm no expert by any means. Some things I've seen posted elsewhere in the Forum got me thinking about how they would be interpreted by someone not too familiar with tire-related issues. Here's my take on a few of them. If you have facts to add, please feel free. 1) Air pressure in tires should be based on many factors, and usually not just by what's stamped into the sidewall of a tire. The vehicle manufacturer will have guidance, and each tire manufacturer publishes inflation charts to allow drivers to determine the proper pressure to use based on the load being carried. To calculate the proper air pressure in tires it's necessary to know the weight load being carried, the tire's inflation chart, the rim's max air pressure rating, as well as the vehicle manufacturer's recommendations and limitations for inflation. 2) Knowing each axle end weight is the ideal way to set tire pressure, but be sure that the tires on both ends of each axle carry the same pressure. That means if one side of your coach is heavier at the steer axle, you base the tire pressure in both front tires on the heavier side. Since the weight being carried on each axle is usually different, the air pressures used might be different for each axle. 3) Upgrading to a tire with a higher load rating will not by itself increase load capacity. Load capacity is a combination of many factors, and usually switching to a tire with a higher load rating won't increase capacity unless a higher air pressure is also used. 4) Increasing tire pressure above what's needed to safely carry the load (including a few PSI extra for a buffer or temp fluctuations during the day) can adversely affect handling and braking. 5) Just because the sidewall of the tire says the tire can be filled to 130 PSI doesn't mean that your vehicle will be safe with that air pressure in the tires. 6) Under inflated tires are dangerous. So are tires used to carry more than their rated capacity. Both at the same time is a disaster in the making. 7) Changing to a tire size different than what the manufacturer used can create an unsafe situation. Always best to check these things with experts before making changes. 8) Tires can 'age out' before they 'wear out' and be unsafe to use even though they have lots of tread left. 9) If you're buying a used rig, don't assume the tires are the correct size/type/load capacity for the vehicle. Our first coach had multiple sizes on it when we bought it, and only some of them were correct for the vehicle. Check the tires carefully before driving. 10) Tire air pressure should be checked with the tire cold (ie, not driven on for the day yet). Within normal circumstances, there is no need to adjust the inflation charts to account for the ambient air temps. If the tire has not been driven on for the day it should be filled according to the calculations made following the inflation charts. For those wanting much more information, here is one site I've found with lots to read. http://www.rvtiresafety.net/ I'd love to see what other tips & safety advice others have related to tires & wheels, especially with an eye towards members who may be new to the game or not up to speed yet on tires. If I've got something wrong, please let me know.

Jim, With that added information, I think you're spot on adding the dedicated battery for the generator. It will give you a sense of security knowing that you'll be able to start the generator even if the house batteries are low.

Jim, Well, that explains how your coach batteries are getting discharged - they are also your house batteries. Assuming that the new generator battery is the same voltage as the existing battery bank, I don't see why it wouldn't work. That is, as long as you are able to charge the batteries when the generator is running or when you're plugged into the pole. The combiner you're talking about will have to connected properly so that your are certain that when you are not running the generator or plugged in your batteries are not connected. If they are, you'll be back in the same place again except with an extra discharged battery when you are boon docked. You'll want to have no way to accidentally discharge the generator start battery. Curious if you're able to start the coach with the batteries that low? If you can't turn over the generator how are you able to start the coach? This would scare me every time I was boon docking for fear of getting stuck with no way to start the coach engine.

Your comments are somewhat confusing and require more information before being able to really offer accurate advice. First, are you using your coach batteries to run your house systems or do you have a separate set coach batteries? You say that if your coach batteries drop below 50% it's hard to start the generator but with your house batteries fully charged there is no problem. That why this is confusing...are you starting the generator from the same batteries that start your coach engine or from your house batteries? Or are they all one and the same? Or are you bridging the two sets somehow? If you are using your coach's engine batteries to start the generator and have separate house batteries, then your first problem is figuring out why the coach batteries are getting that low. The coach batteries should not be deep cycle, and they should never be allowed to drop anywhere near 50%. If you have a single set of batteries that serves to both start the coach and to run the house systems, then you should check carefully the lowest recommended discharge level. Even a high-quality deep cycle battery should never be dropped below 50%. If you have a separate battery bank for house systems, then you'll want to figure out what's draining your coach batteries. Once parked, they should be able to go quite some time before needing to be charged. The short answer to your question is it possible to have a separate battery dedicated to starting the generator. That is what we have. However, you'll need to have a way to charge this battery. Does your generator have an alternator attached for charging batteries? If so, then you can simply hook it up and charge whenever your generator is running. If it doesn't have an alternator, does it have a 12v battery charging output? If so, then you can connect this to your battery and use it to charge. Be cautioned though, as many of the built-in battery chargers will not be a modern 3-stage charger. The older style will simply keep charging whether or not the battery needs to be charged, and this can easily boil a battery and destroy it. In this case you'll have to manually monitor the battery and turn off the charger as needed. Another way to charge the dedicated start battery for the alternator is to simply connect a small automated 120v to 12v battery charger to the generator battery and plug it into an outlet which is powered by the generator. It should be able to keep the generator battery charged and ready. There are other, more complicated ways to charge this as well. To size the dedicated generator battery you'll need to consult the generator's manual to see how big a CCA capacity is recommended. I personally am glad to have the dedicated generator battery. In a worst-case scenario where both my house batteries and my coach batteries get discharged too low, at least I can use the generator to run the battery chargers and get back up and running.

Have you followed the wiring looking for the manufacturing codes on the wire itself? Most wiring I've seen has coding stamped/inked onto the outer shielding and this might be enough information to know what the manufacturer is. From there you could contact them directly and inquire. You might need a magnifier and strong light to see the imprint on the wire's insulation.

I went with the portable. Not as convenient as built in, but when it craps out (and it will) all that's needed is to plug in a new one.

Herman, Have you ever had problems filling to the top that way just before parking somewhere? I filled the tank on our coach pretty much like you do, and then shortly after parked it for the day once. The temps rose as it sat, and then suddenly fuel was coming out the overflow. Guess the fuel was pretty cool sitting underground, and the ambient temps being much warmer caused the fuel to expand enough to overflow. Later I read that the recommendation on the tank was never to fill more than 95% according the the operator's manual. I presume this is to give room for expansion. Lesson learned.

Not sure that you and I are talking about the same thing. I have no problem getting the forum on my phone by using the 'internet'. That's still using a browser. There are other ways to access things like the FMCA Forum other than by going through the browser on a phone. The advantage to using an app like Tapatalk rather than a browser (the 'internet') is that the apps are optimized for the small screen of a smartphone and use far less data. They are easier to use, can take advantage of the phone's camera, and can consolidate all the different forums that I participate in in one app on my phone. Here are some links to the app I'm using to access other forum. There are other apps out there as well. I'm not sure what it takes to get the FMCA forum on a platform/format that works on these apps, but whoever did the new website should know. For iPhone: https://itunes.apple.com/app/id307880732?mt=8 For Android: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.quoord.tapatalkpro.activity

Thanks. That's what I do. Problem is that it requires a browser. If I'm at a laptop it's not a problem getting to the forum. It's just that I'm not usually around a laptop. Always have the smartphone and/or tablet at hand though, especially when we're on the road. When accessing the forum through a browser on a smartphone much more data is used than when doing the same thing through an app like Tapatalk. The apps like Tapatalk are not based on a browser. If you've never used one you should take a look. They are optimized for use on a small screen and make maneuvering through a forum a breeze. Another added benefit is that when accessing a forum through the app I can upload photos directly through the app using the camera on the phone. If FMCA is working to get more younger people involved, then I'm surprised this type of thing isn't already underway. Much simpler to access things through an app than a browser. FMCA does have an app, but there does not appear to be any forum access through it.

Engine braking does put more 'pressure' on the engine. But, this really means that the engine is being asked to do more work and puts more pressure inside the cylinders. Not pressure like it builds up extra pressure in the cooling system. I agree, if everything else is working on the engine it's probably a bad hose.

Update time... I spent the past few weeks removing and redoing the upholstery on the pieces in the rear parlor (bedroom). The couch in the rear was kept as a couch, and it still has a working mechanism to make a full-size bed. The two side couches were reconfigured to be permanent twin beds. They are considered 'bunk' size - 30"x75". Slightly smaller than we'd like but we already had the memory foam mattresses from our last conversion and decided to keep them for now. The carpet has already been purchased and is on hand. We've got a good friend who is a specialty carpet installer who is going to do the install. Just waiting for it to be warm enough for him to be able to cut it in the unheated work space available. It's a plush in a mottled beige color. We wanted to tone things down a bit from the current red/orange shag carpet. We've tried to keep the 70s vibe by keeping the upholstery in the front and in the selection of the bed spreads in the rear. The new carpet should modernize things somewhat but still allow the 70s to show through. I found a few great tidbits underneath things as we pulled the couch out such as napkins from the Carnegie Deli dating from the 70s, a few pieces of school work printed on a Ditto machine (yes - I did give it a sniff to see if it still had that smell), and a few Polish language church bulletins from the 70s. For anyone into sewing, the upholstery work was all done on a vintage Pfaff 260 sewing machine which is mounted in a power head sporting a modern servo motor. No problem plowing through multiple layers of upholstery fabric, including installing the welting (which we made as well). I've done projects like this on my old Singer machines as well, but the Pfaff was handy and has a larger work table. Fabric was purchased from JoAnn Fabric while it was on sale. Had to special order it but it arrived in just a few days. Bedding came from Amazon. We were able to save and re-use the original foam since it was in really great shape and not damaged by water, mold, or mildew. More photos once the carpet is in place.

I follow quite a few online forum groups, and for many of them I'm able to participate easily from my Android smartphone using an app like Tapatalk. I've been unable to find any support for this forum on such an app. I've got the FMCA app on my phone, but it doesn't appear to have any forum support. Sure would be much easier to participate in the forum if I didn't need to drag out the laptop to do so. Am I missing something? Or, is this one that needs to be passed along to those that make decisions about such things?

I would tend to agree that there are many things that could be done to make RVs of all types safer. Sadly though, I think that the deciding factor for a lot of this is what are people willing to pay for. More and more I see that the bottom line is what companies are building to, and few customers are willing to pay the extra money it would take to get a safer vehicle. Once you get away from the high-end vehicles, I just don't see a lot of people wanting to spend the necessary money for safety. Not sure that airbags will work in a larger vehicle like a Class A, but there are certainly things that could be done to make them safer. No offense meant to anyone supporting the way things were done in the 'good ole days', but in many ways those days were not so good. Years ago many (MANY) people died in traffic accidents that people regularly walk away from today. It would be great to just let everyone use their common sense and take the safer approach, but as is proven time after time many people have no common sense. I'm not sure why there is such a tendency for some people to mock basic safety items like seat belts though. I'm sorry if someone feels that his/her rights are being infringed upon. Well, not really sorry. More sad that they think so. We all as a society decided decades ago that having people die needlessly in preventable accidents was a bad thing. We decided that having babies thrown through car windshields was a bad idea. And, we decided as a society that if requiring seat belts would prevent needless deaths and countless millions in medical expenses then they should be required. If one is so certain that safety features like seat belts are not helping, then I'd suggest a letter to congress asking that they change the law and go back to the 'old days'. Maybe I'm being too serious here, but I think that the OP asked valid questions. In reality there is not much each of us individually can do to change things, but as a community it would be possible to push for more safety features collectively.

I think that the bigger point I'm trying to make is that until the basic structural integrity of motor homes, particularly Class A rigs, is brought up to what would be even minimal standards for passenger vehicles any talk of things like air bags is pretty much pointless. Smaller rigs like Class C and especially Class B will inherit some protection from the underlying cab structure. Unfortunately most newer Class A rigs have only minimal ability to protect vehicle occupants in a collision. I'm not getting this information just from the insurance adjuster. We were on-scene at the accident for hours and hours. There were LEOs from the police, sheriff's office, and the state troopers. All that we talked to agreed with the premise that had we been in most modern Class A rigs we would not have come through the collision nearly as well. Many of the less expensive rigs simply crumble on impact with pieces flying everywhere. The company rep from Tiffin we talked to at the RV show hoped his coach would do well, but his honest answer was probably not nearly as well as the bus did. He was not aware of crash testing that had been done. Maybe there is some data out there, and I'd love to see it if there is. I was allowed to open the front generator hatch on the Tiffin and was really surprised to not see anything to act to deflect the impact away from the passenger compartment (internal bumper, etc.) There was a pretty decent looking firewall and some structural pieces, but really nothing to deflect another vehicle and prevent intrusion. The rep did say that there is a lot of metal used in the overall framing, so perhaps the protection is better than some. I believe that things like accident avoidance technology would be beneficial, but I understand that it's not cheap. I'm not saying it should be mandated, but if enough customers ask for it I'm sure we'll start to see it in more and more rigs. Of course the best way to survive an accident is to avoid one, so anything that actually helps in that way would be a plus.

We were involved in a head-on collision last fall while driving a 1964 GM bus conversion. The driver of an oncoming Honda Civic fell asleep and crossed the center line, waking at the last minute he tried to swerve back but didn't do it in time and hit us in an offset head-on striking driver side to driver side. He died instantly on impact and we both walked away. (We were buckled into our seats with lap belts). Our bus was built from heavy-duty aluminum construction in a uni-body style. The bus was over-built and designed to offer protection to passengers. It sustained extensive damage and the impact took out our steering and brakes. The impact rippled the body all the way down the side, and when the nose of the bus caught the other side of the ditch it pulled the entire front end down a few inches and formed a crease across the bus (roof line down to floor) from side to side. Though the damage was extensive, there was only minimal intrusion into the passenger compartment. Had the oncoming vehicle been taller I suspect I would have sustained injury to my legs, at least. The insurance adjuster spent many hours with us a few days later going over the damage. She said that had this been a modern Class A they would still be picking up the pieces of both the RV and of the two of us. She said that the fiberglass front caps on most newer vehicles offer no protection and that the vehicles tend to just shatter and explode open. The Roadmaster video posted above is missing one very important thing - where is the crash test to show just how it will hold up in an accident. Their engineers can talk all they want about safety, but without a crash test I'll consider it just talk. They may be safe, but I'd like to see the evidence. When we were shopping for our first Class A it broke down to being more comfortable once we got to where we were going in a modern Class A or being in a vehicle more road-worthy while driving (a well-maintained bus conversion). Since we spend far more time on the road than in a campground, we chose to be in a vehicle whose design and features were aimed for safety and control on the road. This is why we chose another bus for our current rig. At the Milwaukee RV show this winter I talked to the Tiffin factory rep. I showed him the dash cam video from our accident and the photos of the damage to our bus. My question was how would the Tiffin vehicles hold up in a similar collision. His opinion was not that well. While there is some minimal steel caging in front, there is not even the most basic front bumper or crash protection. After this 30-minute conversation we decided that we'd continue driving our new bus conversion and not trade for a Class A until there is additional effort made to provide front-end collision protection.

I've got a carpet-installer friend who is going to install our new carpet in a month from now. He specializes in specialty projects and while this will be his first bus I'm sure he'll do a great job. But since we're in Wisconsin I'm not sure that this would be a great recommendation for you. However, in all the years we've been friends I've heard him talk about the importance of certification over and over again. If you can't find a specific recommendation in your area and have to start searching, you might try starting here with a search of certified installers: https://cfiinstallers.org/ No guarantees, but at least you're not calling blindly with no idea if the people are qualified. You might also find a carpet store near you that you trust (not a box store, but a proper carpet store) and ask for their recommendations for the project. I'm sure that there are people in your area that can handle the odd-ball job like an RV.

LASER engraver and a piece of colored acrylic and you can make one in just a few minutes. I've used mine to make the control panel on a genset. You could also make two from a piece of birch and upgrade them both to match the new trim you just added to the floor.

Story of my life.