jc21014

Thank you. Sometimes there are occasions when I look/read information and a glaze forms preventing any level of comprehension.

Our mh is the ISL 370 with the side radiator. Does the fan pull in air through the outside grill then towards the engine or does it push air from the inside engine area outward through the radiator, etc.

Doesn't one have to purchase phones outright from them or pay for them monthly when using Consumer Cellular?

And where would that like be? :>)

Thank you. Just happen to have one of those and will put it to good use.

How does one reach the external rubber horizontal seal across the top of the slide as most have a cover of sorts. The same seal, but on the inside, could probably be reached when the slide is inside, I believe.

The sad thing about all of this that you can just about bet the value of affected models will take a noticeable hit when trade-in time comes.

Here is another site that has a CC forum. www.irv2.com/forums

Go to http://www.jeep.com/en/ and you can download a copy of the owners manual. Select owner in the upper bar, then pick the year/model of your Jeep.

Progressive definitely lives up to their name. Our annual premium went from $600 to over $1300 in (5) yrs and that was with "no" claims. Went with Blue Sky (2) yrs ago at a yearly premium of just over $500+ with more coverage. It is very advisable to use companies that specialize in RV insurance and to check rates from other companies every couple of years.

I agree also that Ernie Ekberg knows his stuff. We are considering having him do our floors in the future.

I would also change the fuel filter in reference to comments by Rich in post #8. (I don't recommend FRAM for anything) If yours appears to be the original style of fuel filter, that has changed to a different style. It should be located behind the driver side rear duals and along the frame railing about eye level when sitting under the mh. What is the condition of the air filter; has it been changed recently? Our previous mh was a 2005 Winnebago Voyage with the 8.1L motor and from day one, I just never felt comfortable running the small oem size oil filter on a big block engine so changed to the (1) qt size equivalent from NAPA or GM when they were on sale. There is a (2) qt size available for that engine if interested. 1 qt-NAPA #1060 AC Delco PF1218 2 qt-NAPA 1794 AC Delco PF932F Wix 51794 I would also check and see if the Allison trans has the new Transyd fluid as yours most likely came from the factory with Dex III. Allison did not do the switch until around May/2005.

Down the road, you'll find that to have been a wise and considerate decision for everyone.

X2 on Blue Sky. We had the infamous Progressive joke and which had doubled in (5) yrs even though we had no claims. I would call the GMAC agent and suggest he learn how to pound sand and not give people the run-a-round. http://www.blueskyrvinsurance.com/about-us/

I agree. Another good reason the gene pool could use an occasional cleaning.

Here is an extensive link on another forum that covers the trailing arm issues. It appears to cover the 4 air bag chassis instead of the 8 bag ones. The first 8-10 pages have a listing of the effected models so it appears that yours is not affected. You most likely will have a 4 door fridge, either Norcold or Dometic , in that size/model of mh. These, especially the Norcolds, have been the cause of a lot of problems for many people. Even though the recalls may have been done, many owners are still complaining of poor cooling. As you can see from my signature, our unit is a 2004 Newmar Dutch Star on a Spartan Chassis so my overall knowledge of your unit is limited. Users on this forum such as, Wolfe10, Rich(RichandLois), and Hermann Mullins would probably be more knowledgeable on your particular. I don't want to sound to negative on any particular brand over another but to advise on what I know from experiance or have read on the ones mentioned. Also, be advised that FMCA has a very good tire purchase program through Michelin, that is available for members that can result in a noticeable savings. Tire brand choices among folks can lead to interesting discussions but my past experiance steers me away from Goodyear based on my bad experiance,rivering, out-of-round issues, and price. Michelin has always been a good tire for us but can be a little pricey also. We went to Hankooks (Korean made)about 3-4 yrs ago on our class A and personal vehicles and have been very pleased. We payed $300-400 less than GYs and Michelin. Other tire brands to consider would be Toyo. Yokohama, Bridgestone, etc. http://www.irv2.com/forums/f24/trailing-arms-cracked-on-roadmaster-54838.html I believe the issue has also been discussed here on the FMCA forumbut don't have the link readily available.

You have to keep in mind that most of these used rvs are being sold for a reason. Most owners/dealers are not your friend and will not reveal/volunteer any more information about their rv than is necessary to a potential buyer or dealer. What is the year/model of the unit you are looking at as some have known past issues that have been posted about. Some Winnebagos have rust issues on the frame under the windshield, those with basement ac can have cooling issues to name a few. Class A mh on work horse chassis from approx 2000-2008 have brake caliber problems causing lockup/overheating issues; Some earlier Monaco class A mh models had dangerous trailing arm issues on the frame but was able to skirt their responsibly for issues by filing bankruptcy and forming a new company; your cost-$2500-3000. Some of the earlier 2000 year range Spartan chassis has an inferior quality rubber boot covering the ball joints. The rubber rotted away exposing the ball joints to road grit, etc; which require replacement. They supposedly knew this but only fixed it if you were under warranty. Your cost to fix, $2500-3000. Does it have a Norcold or Dometic 4 door fridge? These and some of the 2 door models have been subjected to numerous recalls for fridge units built from roughly 2000-2009 because of poor cooling issues. After being on for 18-24 hours, the freezer should be +5 to -10 and the fridge box in the 38-40 degree range. If the fridge does need replacement, the options usually are, replace the cooling unit on the back with an Amish built unit, $1100-1200 for the (2) door or $1400-2000 for the (4)door model with some cabinet mods sometimes needed. A new (2) door can be in the $1400-1800 range and a new (4) door in the $3000+ range. But are you buying another problem, have they fixed the new units? I don't really know. Some folks will remove the RV fridge entirely and replace it with various house models. These run strictly off of an inverter, (usually 1500 watt or better) and pretty much limit any boondocking. How old are the tires and what brand are they? Generally speaking, anything with a DOT date older than 5-7 yrs can be a potential hazard for blowouts and should be possibly replaced by the seller or an allowance for replacement in the selling price.. Thes tires usually age out before wearing out. How many hours on the generator? Has it been used regularly or been ignored and not used. We put 150-200 hrs per year on ours as they are meant to be run regularly. 9 times out of 10, our gennie is running when we're going down the road. In the past when we have decided to give a serious look at a rv, I called the dealer/owner and requested that they plug the unit in, turn on the fridge, put some fresh water in the tanks, etc. I had them start the generator right after we go there and turned on the ac's, and tried every appliance. Does it have a washer/dryer? These need to be turned on and checked. I would want all fluids/filters changed in the big engine and generator or proof that it has already been done. Depending on the year of the rv would determin if the belts/hoses need attention also. Finding a good/reputable rv qualified person to do these inspections is always an option but be prepared to spend $300-500. Your money, your choice but not taking the right inspection steps can/might be very expensive down the road. They are a lot of fun but can be a money pit also.

If you do end up going to PPL in Houston, here is a another dealer who seems to take great pride in the units he sells. Have not personally dealt with them but they were recommended by several people we know from the Houston area. http://www.bestpreownedrv.com/

The temps are from a digital stat and (2) remote sensors, one in the freezer and one in the fridge box. I additionally have a regular hanging fridge thermometer in the freezer and fridge box also. Each of these seem to usually read 3-4 degrees colder than the digital ones. Hmmm, maybe I'm actually colder than I think in the freezer and fridge and am being overly concerned or anal or whatever.

With all the bad press that rv fridges have recently received concerning their cooling abilities, I'm probably expecting to much. We had the "Amish" unit installed in our Dometic NDR1062 several months ago and it cooled rather well at first, with temps in the 33-36 degree range in the box, -5 to -10 in the freezer, when setting the outside panel on 3-4 out of 5. (2) four inch computer case fans were installed at the top of the roof vent and controlled by a rocker switch. Lately, the temps in the box only, using the same setting(s) have inched up into the upper end 38-42 range in the box. Food is not being packed inside to restrict airflow, the door is left open only long enough to retrieve certain items and all door seals are snug. A new thermistor, burner and 325w heating element were installed at change over and the orifice was removed and cleaned. The lp burner has a good blue color when on and a slight noticeable burning sound. 24hrs prior to leaving, I go to the storage unit and turn the fridge on lp and 12-18 hrs later, the freezer is at -5 and the box is 38-40 so it appears to be cooling down correctly. It sounds like some investigative work is in order to make sure everyting was done correctly from the start, ie; installation and sealing. Maybe I'm expecting colder temps then are reasonable and thought the "Snip-the-tip" would help. Has anyone heard that the OEM boards used by Dometic are basically "set" for 40 degrees and the dinosaur boards have an adjustment so the temps can be lowered? Thanks everyone for your comments so far.

We're thinking of installing the above mentioned mod to our fridge, which involves cutting off the thermistor that attaches to the inside fins of the fridge and replacing it which the aforementioned mod. Has anyone done this and if so, are any temp adjustments still done by using the original control panel on the front of the fridge or by turning the small knob on the front of the snip mod? http://www.snip-the-tip.com/cgi-bin/articca.cgi

We have the 2008 Saturn Vue and, as you probably know, an ignition fuse is required to be pulled prior to towing to avoid having the battery go dead. As I didn't want to pull the fuse each time, I addressed that problem by mounting a rocker type switch(which held the fuse in question) on the center console side panel that contains the other fuses. When we were ready to tow, we used the switch to disable the switch so maybe the same/similiar approach could be used on the CRV. BTW, what wheel problems were you referring to for the Saturn Vue? Have never heard of that. Here is a link to the fues setup we used. A little pricey but one could probably configure their own. http://rv-partsplus.com/rving-fuseswitch

That's what I most likely will find as Newmar usually has things put together correctly. The post by Erniee mentioned cleaning the area then softening the tile with a hair dryer and then trying to reapply the tile with contact cement. Most likely will try that first. Had to see my friendly chiropractor after stepping off the curb in a "DUH" moment several days ago so will try after my back cooperates.

On our 2004 Dutch Star DP, there is a corner section of square tile under the Flexsteel drivers power seat that has come loose and is starting to curl. I want to put a 1 1/2" metal seam binder frame around the floor where seat is mounted to repair and secure the tile to the floor with small nails/screws. Since the seat will need to be removed for enough work space, what are the (4) large bolts that go through the seat base secured to. Are they lag bolts that screw into the floor underlayment or perhaps threaded bolts that screw into a secured nut in the floor. I unloosened one of the bolts but it seemed to turn without appearing to retract from the floor. Anyone with a schematic of the seat mounting or information on having had to remove their seat on a similiar coach would be appreciated. There doesn't seem to be any access underneath the coach that I could see.

A model # and link to where our members can purchase this item would be nice.