hermanmullins Report post Posted May 8, 2017 And you didn't heed his warning and now have Arithrits. 😢 Herman Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jleamont Report post Posted May 8, 2017 1 hour ago, hermanmullins said: And you didn't heed his warning and now have Arithrits. 😢 Herman Beat me to that punch line Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kaypsmith Report post Posted May 9, 2017 Well I was young and naïve back then! You can probably understand, again though, how long ago was that, 52 years I think. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BillCox Report post Posted September 15, 2019 On 5/3/2017 at 7:09 AM, rickkey2 said: In our 2007 Charleston 40QS the dash a/c has always worked great, it puts out 50 degrees on high from day one. We used to keep our front 15000 btu unit set at 70 for those hot days when the dash unit would not keep up. We installed the curtain behind the front seats last year and have not needed to use the coach ( roof ) a/c unit. Now as Herman stated driving into the sun will change the situation and I just reach down and hit the generator and all is good. One thing I did do was to check all the ducting in the dash and found three ducts that were flattened with the wire harness laying on them and also kinked in a few spots. I rerouted the flexible ducting so there was no restriction and increased the air flow at least 50%. Now with the fan on high it really blows hard and makes a huge difference. Also makes a big difference when heat is needed and the curtain helps keep the heat in the front area. On 5/7/2017 at 6:16 PM, rickkey2 said: As I understand when replacing or installing engine insulation in a DP especially in a rear radiator it is recommended to use fasteners and glue not just glue. The reason is that the air gets pulled in engine compartment and blown out the radiator to the rear. If the insulation comes loose it could be sucked into the fan and block the air flow or worse break a fan blade and damage the radiator. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
manholt Report post Posted September 16, 2019 BillCox. Is this a problem that you have or? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dickandlois Report post Posted September 23, 2019 Bill Cox and Rick Keys !!! Just a heads up in regards to a portion of your post. (driving into the sun will change the situation and I just reach down and hit the generator and all is good.) The sequence of starting the generator with the Roof Ac unit(s) turned on over time will damage the ATS. When the Delay period activates the ATS with the load required to power the AC units creates an ark at the contacts, this process will cause pitting in the contacts and at some point that will weld the contacts together. At that point you will loose shore power connection. The same thing will happen when connecting the shore power cable to the riser with the Roof AC or any High load equipment powered on. Best sequence is to connect to the riser or start the generator before turning on the AC units, because the contacts will close with a very limited current load. Reduces the contact damage and per longs the generator circuit breakers life. Cutting corners will come back and cost some money down the road at some point. Rich. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wayne77590 Report post Posted September 23, 2019 Rich, The newer rigs have "Auto Start" and should power be lost at the pedestal the generator will start up. After the reset time of the air conditioners they will restart also. usually around a minute or more. How is this going to affect the ATS? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
manholt Report post Posted September 23, 2019 Don't know about ATS, but it will affect the Generator Bushing...ask me how I know. Bushing $39.75, labor with 10% off $980 ! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Factor Report post Posted January 5, 2020 On 5/8/2017 at 4:36 PM, kaypsmith said: My first auto with AC was an Oldsmobile Jetstar 88, the salesman cautioned me not to run on recirculate after initial cooldown, would cause ARTHRITIS. Oh... no wonder my mom has Arthritis...😂 ours was Lime Green. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rls7201 Report post Posted January 8, 2020 So much worry about the generator starting with the AC turned on. Those transfer switch contacts are rated @ 30 or 50 amps which is far more than the contacts on the AC start relay. My transfer switch is 25 years old and gets to transfer under AC load many times a year. The transfer switch and contacts are designed for that type of service, just like motor starter contacts in production service are designed to handle the load they are rated for. Manholt, what generator bushings are you referring to? Richard Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
richard5933 Report post Posted January 8, 2020 7 hours ago, RLS7201 said: So much worry about the generator starting with the AC turned on. Those transfer switch contacts are rated @ 30 or 50 amps which is far more than the contacts on the AC start relay. My transfer switch is 25 years old and gets to transfer under AC load many times a year. The transfer switch and contacts are designed for that type of service, just like motor starter contacts in production service are designed to handle the load they are rated for. Manholt, what generator bushings are you referring to? Richard Are the contacts break-before-make or make-before-break? Curious if a momentary drop in power to the a/c from a break-before-make switch would be a problem for the a/c at all. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted January 8, 2020 10 hours ago, RLS7201 said: So much worry about the generator starting with the AC turned on. Those transfer switch contacts are rated @ 30 or 50 amps which is far more than the contacts on the AC start relay. My transfer switch is 25 years old and gets to transfer under AC load many times a year. The transfer switch and contacts are designed for that type of service, just like motor starter contacts in production service are designed to handle the load they are rated for. I would suggest that changing power sources under high amp load be considered "what I got away with" vs "best practices". Can you do it-- sure. Will it eventually pit the contacts-- very likely. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites