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studebrucer

Battery issues flat Towing

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We purchased a 2014 Honda CRV, because it is the last year before the CVT trans, which means it is the last year you can flat  tow. Our first trip was about 6 hours, car started with out a problem. Next tow was about 5 hours and the battery was dead. The battery is the original. I believe the problem is the battery. I'm hoping replacing with a deep cycle will do the trick. Before I spend the extra for a deep cycle, I wanted to see if anyone has had a similar experience, and what their solution was.

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1 hour ago, STUDEBRUCER said:

We purchased a 2014 Honda CRV, because it is the last year before the CVT trans, which means it is the last year you can flat  tow. Our first trip was about 6 hours, car started with out a problem. Next tow was about 5 hours and the battery was dead. The battery is the original. I believe the problem is the battery. I'm hoping replacing with a deep cycle will do the trick. Before I spend the extra for a deep cycle, I wanted to see if anyone has had a similar experience, and what their solution was.

Yes the stock battery is not that big I don't remember the rating but you can go to a higher capacity battery. If it is the original it is about time to replace it anyway. I have replaced my battery and also start and run it during lunch stops. Haven't had a problem since the new battery.

Bill

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Add a charging wire with a relay and auto reset circuit breaker 

so you are charging well traveling 

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11 hours ago, STUDEBRUCER said:

I'm hoping replacing with a deep cycle will do the trick. Before I spend the extra for a deep cycle,

As Bill said, you can replace with a higher capacity battery, but do not replace with a deep cycle, they are not designed to be used in a high discharge environment. The charging wire as noted above is the best solution. Of course if the battery actually needs replacing then of course do that, but if leaving the switch on in accessory mode is causing the drain, then charging wire is what I would do,

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1 hour ago, kaypsmith said:

As Bill said, you can replace with a higher capacity battery, but do not replace with a deep cycle, they are not designed to be used in a high discharge environment. The charging wire as noted above is the best solution. Of course if the battery actually needs replacing then of course do that, but if leaving the switch on in accessory mode is causing the drain, then charging wire is what I would do,

Kay is absolutely right. One outher thing, be shure you are in accessory mode, it is easy to go all the way to "run". Easey check, if your running lights are on you are not in accessory mode. Ran across that problem up on the Yellowstone helping a neighbor in the campground start his car. 

Bill

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When I had Lazy Days setup my 2018 Explorer to tow behind my motorhome, they wired up my Explorer battery so it gets charged up by the alternator on the motorhome while going down the road. I didn't ask for it, they just did it for me. I have a battery cutoff switch/lever to pull to disconnect the battery from the electronics in the Explorer, but the battery still gets topped off by the motorhome.

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30 minutes ago, f474120 said:

When I had Lazy Days setup my 2018 Explorer to tow behind my motorhome, they wired up my Explorer battery so it gets charged up by the alternator on the motorhome while going down the road. I didn't ask for it, they just did it for me. I have a battery cutoff switch/lever to pull to disconnect the battery from the electronics in the Explorer, but the battery still gets topped off by the motorhome.

That is a good set up. 

Bill

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I think it is a combination of both. There are parasitic drains on the Toad just because the key is in acc. I have heard some with the onboard navigation are worse. I have a draw from my old Brake Buddy as it runs to keep the air preshure up. Lots of variables to all this. Things like how sensitive do you have the brakes set up? The  more it activates the more the pump runs. I also check after set up that it is not pushing on the brake pedal enough to turn on the car brake lights when at rest. 

The size of the battery is a defiant contributor to the problem. The stock original is smaller than the one in my lawn tractor. I haven't had a problem since I replaced the original. But I do like to run the toad when we stop for lunch.😉 

Bill

 

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We had a Blue Ox Patriot that was moved throughout several Jeeps, we traveled for days and never a dead battery. The battery in our current CRV and those jeeps we’re comparable in Amp hours and not one dead battery.

In the CRV why is the key on acc while in tow? Would someone in a CRV benefit from a well designed system like M&G where no electronics or draw come into play?

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I used to have a problem with my  battery going down when towing. I did carry a battery charger with me and when I was hooking to the campsite services I would have the charger plugged into the pedestal. After about 10 minutes of set up I would return to the car and start it with no problem. Irritating as heck though.

So, the book says to stop and run the engine for 5 minutes every 4 hours (or so) but that would not do it for me. What I did do was stop every two hours, hey - potty break, and run the engine while stretching the legs and Earlene would walk our Husky.  So far we have not had an issue of power loss on the car.

What I did notice was that in hilly country it was more likely the battery would drain. The exhaust brake on our MH applies the tail lights so a constant use can cause havoc with the battery and drain it sooner.  I'll just stop a little sooner when in those conditions.

In the meantime I am looking at getting a TOAD Charger and that should take care or any problems.

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4 hours ago, jleamont said:

In the CRV why is the key on acc while in tow?

So the steering wheel will turn. 😉

 

8 hours ago, jleamont said:

Would someone in a CRV benefit from a well designed system like M&G where no electronics or draw come into play?

I don't have enough knowledge to make a good answer. I think you may still have some parasitic drain. With my new battery I have gone 8+ hours without starting the car and was ok, I just like to start it when we stop for lunch. 

Bill 

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A charge circuit in my opinion is the best way to go

Starting your toad with out driving is not good in the long run 

  

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Bill, the older Jeeps had to have the key one click forward as well, no dead batteries. 

Carl, M&G makes a brake system for the CRV. Of all vehicles ones that have dead battery issues sound like the best fit for that product!!

Plus is a TRUE fully proportional system. 

I am not a fan of a charge circuit, one more thing to go wrong. 

the potential for pulling higher resistance through the trailer plug that is already a poor design and quality and you have to have a solid circuit protection for the coach just in case something goes wrong. Plus with coaches today that are equipped with AGM batteries (or changed over in my case) now you have one odd ball battery in the charging bank that’s a wet cell. 

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11 hours ago, jleamont said:

now you have one odd ball battery in the charging bank that’s a wet cell. 

We will need input from someone smarter than me on this but I think with the one way diodes the coach will see this as a simple "loade/draw" and not a battery to keep charged.

Bill

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Maybe I missed it, but did the OP ever mention what type of batteries he had in the coach?

Until we hear back from the OP we're just guessing, but I agree that power lead in the tow harness could solve all this (if hooked up correctly.)

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56 minutes ago, WILDEBILL308 said:

We will need input from someone smarter than me on this but I think with the one way diodes the coach will see this as a simple "loade/draw" and not a battery to keep charged.

Bill

Bill a diode in the circuit would be a must for me and circuit protection at the back of the coach. The coaches I have seen had nothing. 

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On the CRV, you have to pull one of the fuses when towing, or the battery will discharge within a couple of hours.  The manual shows the fuse to disconnect.

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6 hours ago, jleamont said:

Bill a diode in the circuit would be a must for me and circuit protection at the back of the coach. The coaches I have seen had nothing. 

You also need a circuit breaker or fuse I would use an auto reset breaker 

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