gaylemarlowe Report post Posted July 16, 2014 I know you knowledgeable fellas have answered this before, but could not find it in the old posts. I want to install a 30 amp rv plug on the house exterior and question whether the 30 amp is 110 or 220? Our electrician is also questioning it. Thanks in advance for your answers. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kaypsmith Report post Posted July 16, 2014 IT is 110, please do not install as 220, it will fry your coach electrical if wired 220. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jrwitt Report post Posted July 16, 2014 There are several youtube videos out there that discuss installation of RV outlets at your home. Google "30A RV electrical Outlet". Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted July 16, 2014 30 amp RV outlet: One hot One neutral One ground 50 amp RV outlet: Two hots (240 as measured between the two hots) One neutral One ground Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dickandlois Report post Posted July 16, 2014 Gay, the 30 amp circuits for coaches consist of a hot 30 amp, a neutral and ground. NO 220 please! The plugs look like dryer connections, but they are wired different!! The post by Jim is a very good option. You need to get the supplies and pay the labor so running one more wire is very cost effective option. 50 Amp = 2 hots 120 volts each (L-1 and L-2) a neutral and ground. Rich. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RVerOnTheMove Report post Posted July 17, 2014 110, 110, 110! (or 115V or 120V, but never 220/240). If you have a 30 amp coach you also have no reason to install a 50 amp circuit (it would be silly and of no benefit of any kind). Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mpierce Report post Posted July 17, 2014 110, 110, 110! (or 115V or 120V, but never 220/240). If you have a 30 amp coach you also have no reason to install a 50 amp circuit (it would be silly and of no benefit of any kind). Unless at some point in the future you get a 50 amp RV. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RVerOnTheMove Report post Posted July 17, 2014 No, you don't need 50 amp. It's like saying I will put in a 100' driveway in case they ever build a 100' RV. Should you ever need to update in the future it's not a bid deal. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dickandlois Report post Posted July 17, 2014 Bill, You are full-timing. I still have a sticks and bricks base camp. We have some friends that do travel more then we do and having a 50 amp service available would be a nice extra should they want to stop over. Everyone has a different perspective or thoughts of what is important or useful. We would need to park our coach in another location should we wish to offer a stop over location for others if needed. Rich. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
StellersJay Report post Posted July 17, 2014 I have a 30 amp coach, but if I was installing an outlet at home, I would install a 50 amp outlet. Gives a lot more options. If you ever want to install a 220 volt appliance such as a welder or air compressor, the 50 amp plug can be used. Many campgrounds out west only have 50 amp service. Sam Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hermanmullins Report post Posted July 17, 2014 OK, folks lets get back to the original question. "A 30 amp RV outlet is 110 volts only NOT 220 volts." Gayle please pass this on to your electrician. Herman Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kaypsmith Report post Posted July 17, 2014 I thought about making suggestions for 50 amp as opposed to 30 amp, then thought what I origionally wrote was appropriate. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gaylemarlowe Report post Posted July 17, 2014 Thanks ya all for the responses. Now I know the details on the 30 amp plug!! I did consider the 50 amp as my brother is bringing his coach out west to stay for a few weeks, but it appears as we are limited to amperage available due to running a lot of other high amperage stuff (hot tub, welder, air compressor, 2 house ac units, etc.) If I can squeeze it for 50 amps, I will do so, but may be limited to 30, which does do pretty well. Thanks again guys!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RVerOnTheMove Report post Posted July 18, 2014 50 amp service provides up to 100amps to the RV. 30 amp service provides up to 30 amps to the RV. Be absolutely certain which of these you want to get involved with. No one likes my response but you need to completely understand the differences. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted July 18, 2014 Bill is correct. 30 amp is ONE hot leg 30 amps. 50 amp is TWO hot legs of 50 amps EACH= 100 amps. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tilldee Report post Posted August 13, 2014 We will be staying at a friends who says he has 100amp in his work shop. Our M/H is 30amp, how can we use this? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted August 13, 2014 Tildee, That will depend on how his 100 amp is wired. For 30 amp service, you will need ONE hot, ONE neutral and ONE ground. The critical part for RV's compared with some welding equipment, etc is ONE hot. So, as long as he has a neutral to the work shop, wiring it should not be much of an issue. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wayne77590 Report post Posted August 13, 2014 Check this out. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tbutler Report post Posted August 13, 2014 Here is a web site with diagrams and explanations for wiring 30A and 50A outlets for RV's. Read it, examine the pictures, if you don't understand it completely, hire an electrician and have them do the work. If you think they don't understand RV electrical requirements, have them look at the web site. The web site also has information on campground electric and testing outlets. If you are interested in knowing about your electrical supply for your RV, you should read this. If you are thinking of doing any electrical work related to your RV, you definitely should read and study this carefully. There is also a page on welding service and an explanation of why you may not be able to use the welding service for an RV outlet. RV Electric Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ajcotti Report post Posted August 13, 2014 A couple of suggestions: 1. Use copper wire. 2. Both Lowes & Home Depot sell a weather proof metal box with the 30 Amp outlet already inside the box. Made for RVs @30 amps and 120 volts . 3. Spoke to Tiffin Motor Homes yesterday and a local RV park owner. All 30 Amp RV outlets are 120 volts. 4. You should also consult with someone that knows about voltage drop. If the 30 Amp outlet that you are going to plug your RV into is over 100 feet away (the distance between the fuse block and the plug you may need to increase the wire size to more than a # 10 gauge. The longer the distance between to fuse panel and the motor home the greater the chance that your voltage will drop below the 115v to 120v needed to run your appliances such as refrigerator, tvs, microwave, heat pump etc and you could burn them out. Allen acjc18@gmail.com Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tbutler Report post Posted August 14, 2014 You will find wire size recommendations for various lengths of wire on the web site posted above. Yes, copper wire is still the standard conductor. While aluminum wire can be used, it is not normally an in-stock item in most retail stores in my experience. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tilldee Report post Posted February 5, 2015 Tildee, That will depend on how his 100 amp is wired. For 30 amp service, you will need ONE hot, ONE neutral and ONE ground. The critical part for RV's compared with some welding equipment, etc is ONE hot. So, as long as he has a neutral to the work shop, wiring it should not be much of an issue. Thanks Wolfe10. Sorry it has taken me so long to respond. It's been a busy winter here and I'm so over it and ready to get on the road again. But I can't complain too much, we could have been in the northeastern states. Brrrrr. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tbutler Report post Posted February 5, 2015 Once again, I will post the definitive source for RV Electric Supply answers. There are pictures (worth a thousand words), diagrams, wiring size tables, etc. This link even has a page for you to print and give to your electrician. This is especially important if your electrician is asking questions. The fact that he is asking questions is a really good sign. That's a smart electrician, keep his phone number on your list for any electrical problems! This is RV Electric. Bookmark it for future reference. Just for grins! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
manholt Report post Posted February 6, 2015 As Herman said, on the subject. In Colorado, in Summer, I have had to use 30 amp and found no problem with it. Warm days, cool nights...in Texas, I would go with 50 amp. As Jim S said, "get another electrician"! My 2 cents worth.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
QuiGonJohn Report post Posted January 20, 2018 I know this is an older thread, but thought I'd give a little info, in case anyone else is looking here to do this. Shortly after I got my MH (2006 Winnebago Aspect 26A ... 30 Amp), I installed a 30 Amp RV receptacle on the side of my house where I park my RV. I tapped into the Dryer Circuit, which happened to be on the opposite side of the garage wall from where I park the RV and wanted to place the outlet. I drilled a hole thru the cinder block, just a few inches from the Dryer outlet. Killed the power, then connected wiring to just one side (leg) of the Dryer circuit, (being certain I was only getting 120v not 220v). Ran heavy gauge wire thru conduit out to the box I put on the outer wall, then wired in the 30A outlet and ran a little more wire further to give myself a regular 20A home outlet (outdoor) as well (to use for other things). After all done, I tested again to be absolutely certain I had 120v at the new outlets on the outside wall. This gives me very heavy gauge wiring back to my breaker panel (by means of the already existing dryer wire) and I put pretty heavy wiring for the 1.5 to 2 feet of wire from the dryer outlet to the new outlet. The only caveat is I feel to not overload, the A/C in the RV and the Dryer itself, should not be run at the same time. Simple enough to be sure of. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
