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rwitt

AC's Tripping Breakers

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I have a 2008 Monaco with 3 AC units. I'm having a problem with the center and rear units tripping the breakers. I have had it checked out twice and they keep saying everything is well within the normal range. The center/rear units are on a dual 20A breaker and the front unit is on a single 20A breaker. Sometimes just the center unit trips, but usually it is both. I reset them and they seem to work for several days. I have already changed the breaker and it stopped it for a while, but it is doing it again. Anyone have any idea what it might be?

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Is there enough room in your breaker box for two single 20 amp breakers instead of the dual? If not can the wire be moved to another single breaker with the wire on that breaker move to the dual?

Overheating on the single leg that the dual is on can cause duals to trip as you describe. As DD69 recommends checking startup amp draw, if both units draw high current, in the advent both units start simultaneously can surely be a factor. Was the third unit an add on? Hard to believe that Monaco would have used a dual 20 amp breaker with ac's on it.

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rwitt,

Welcome to the Forum.

On a dual breaker the two breakers are connected by a clip on cover. Remove the cover and you now have two single 20 amp breakers. Run both units and see which one might be tripping the breaker. This way you can narrow down which unit my be the cause of your problem.

Another thought, does this happen when on the generator or shore power or on both?

Also check the fins on both units just to make sure that by some strange event they have gotten bent over causing a restricted air flow. This happened to a number of folks a couple of years ago in Gillette.

Hope you find your problem now is not the time to be out of A/C. :(

Herman

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Here's where I am. I don't have a meter to check draw. No room for adding another 20A breaker. Can't move wires to a single 20A since only one single 20 and the front AC is on it. No, it is not an add on, it's in the build sheet. One thermostat, 3 zones, 3 sensors (front, mid and rear). Fins are OK. Any other suggestions?

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Since they are on the same thermostat, there should be a timing start delay. If the two are starting Simultaneously, this can cause an overdraw. I think that your description of a dual 20 amp breaker means 2 separate switches on a single breaker, ie., attach to a single lug (110 volt), these work very well in most cases, but most lugs are aluminum, which heats up very quickly, can cause a problem with the type breaker that is installed if they are starting at the same time. A simple time delay device to insure that both units can't start at the same time should solve the problem of the breakers going bad so soon. Since this configuration is in the build sheet, there probably is one installed, if so the delay timer may have gone bad.

Good luck chasing, and I don't think anyone has told you yet, so here it is, WELCOME TO THE FORUM.

Kay

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Thanks for the information and the welcome Kay. Actually, Herman Mullins welcomed me as well. We just sold our house and started full time RVing two weeks ago. Really don't need these problems right off the bat.

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Just got back after three hours and the center AC breaker was tripped.

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rwitt,

If you separated the breakers and the one for the center A/C tripped then for me it would time for a call for a tech. Hopefully to other two A/Cs are able to keep you comfortable till the third unit can be repaired.

Good luck and keep cool :rolleyes: .

Herman

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Does this only occur while driving? If so, there may be a loose connection in the splice connection of the ac, most that I have seen have wire nuts connecting the house feed to the ac. With power off, you might remove the wire nuts, and twist

the wires with a pair of pliers, then put on new nuts. I always add electrical tape over the wire nuts for safety. If you are not comfortable with electricity, a qualified electrician probably want charge very much to do this.

Also inspect for frayed wire covering, especially where the feed passes through the metal wire housing.

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Herman & Kay,
Thank you both for your assistance. This is happening while we are parked. I have a surge protector at the post and it is showing everything good. Since we are living in it full time, I hope I can find someone who can come here to work on it. Planning on trying to find someone tomorrow.

Thanks again.

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Mine do that once in awhile as well on hot days when they run non-stop. The breaker just seems to get warm enough for the occasional trip-out.

The sort of dual breaker you have is probably not what Herman is talking about, i.e. no cap that forces both to trip when either one gets hot. That would be typical of a 220v breaker, not independent 120v circuits. It is usually just two separate breakers in one physical package and occupying one slot in the load center (I have two pairs of those in mine). Each one handles a separate circuit (wire), so there is no combined load to worry about. Well, with the exception that the two are physically very close together and any heat build-up in one also affects the other.

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Is the dual breaker for the A/C that flips the breaker share space with your central vacuum? Do you have a toe switch for the vacuum? If yes to both of these--check the toe-switch as ours [even when we were not using the vacuum] was causing the center A/C to trip sporatically. Once the vacuum toe-switch was repaired problem went away.

Good Luck!

Ray

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Well, it has been just over a week and then yesterday the center AC tripped just one of the dual 20A breakers. Gary, what you said about the heat makes sense and I can place my hand on the outside of the breakers and they are really hot, especially when they've been running for a while. Is there any way that you or anyone knows of to solve the problem? I was told to run the fans on high instead of auto. When I do that the fans run all the time. Is thIs what they should do? I thought putting them on high would just insure they run on high speed when the compressor was on.

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You mentioned in you original post, that when you had the system checked that everything was nominal.

My take on it is - when they checked the system current load, the load was within the specifications of the AC unit. What was the voltage reading at the AC unit?

Another item that can cause higher then expected voltage drops is wire gauge / size and the length of the run.

One might have the service tech check ALL the circuit terminals are clean and tight at the AC unit, in the circuit Breaker panel.

Contamination and loose connections increase resistance and resistance causes heat. Heat Trips breakers.

Rich.

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Good point Rich, I might even go as far as replacing the breakers for the A/C units, the quality of those over the years has diminished, as with most products. If I remember correctly they cost me less than $85.00 for all of them.

I had a problem with hot breakers in our last coach, no one could find anything wrong, I replaced them and the problem went away, now granted my last coach was 10 years older than rwitt's unit.

If you are not comfortable working around have a service tech perform the task.

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I have replaced the breaker twice. It seems to help for a short period. As you know, it doesn't take many times to weaken the spring in them. I have a tech coming out tomorrow and thanks to you folks I have some very good things to talk to him about.

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Not very good news today. Service tech came out. Very nice and professional gentleman. If you are ever in Oklahoma City and need mobile service call Price RV repair. Anyway, the center AC was drawing 38A on startup and then dropped down to 11A. As the tech said, the startup draw is high but 11A is good. Problem is, it then starts to rise to 18.3A. Way too high for temp/humidity.

He called Dometic tech and they confirmed it is way to high. Bottom line.... I need a new unit. None in stock anywhere in the area and it. At least 2 weeks to get one here. We were leaving on Jul 4th so looks like we'll be changing plans. Not what we had hoped as we start out FT travels, but we'll role with the punches.... He's also going to rewire to split those two units off the same breaker.

Hope this fixes things!

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Did any one clean the condenser fins, as this will drive the high side up along with the amperage?

When the tech had his gauges on he should be able to tell.

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The center AC has been replaced and all is well, except now the rear unit is doing the same thing for the startup draw. It is settling in at about 15 to 16 amps which I believe is also high. The front and rear units are 15K units and according to Dometic, they don't make that model any longer and the replacement model is not in stock.

It is going to be some time in OCT before they can have them is stock. My problem is that I am now on my way to McAllen TX for the winter so I don't have the same tech available. He was Dometic certified and a very good/reasonable and was willing to do a lot of work at the park to keep clients from having to take it to the shop.

Hopefully, I can find someone as good and dependable in McAllen. I'm going to just replace the front and rear and then hopefully will not have more AC problems for a while.

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rwitt. Good morning.

When you get to the Valley, send a PM to Butler (he does Blogs on Forum), he lives in the Valley now and would definitely know a good tech!

Stay away from Camping World.

Good Luck.

Carl

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Thanks Carl,

I will definitely stay away from Camping World. Last time we were there Camping World was closed and as far as I'm concerned they can stay closed. I'll try to contact Butler.

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