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I guess I am one of the 50,000 members who do not belong to a Chapter nor have we ever gone to a Rally (we went to one Good Sam one in 2000). We now are retired, and travel to and from Palm Springs for three months, and then somewhere else for about a month and a half or so, then return home. We live in the Pacific Northwest which is the most beautiful place in the country in the summer. Why go somewhere else. We may take a few weeks and go to the Coast, but that is about it. We have 12 grandchildren next door, volunteer at a non-profit for 10 hours each Monday (50 miles away), and we keep plenty busy during the summer. We enjoy the magazine and all the MOTOR HOME articles in it, and the benefits. With that said, in 2019 we are taking a 3-4 month, 8-11,000 mile trip around the country with my daughter, son-in-law and their 12 kids. Them in a bus towing a trailer, us in our motor home towing a car. That should be fun. It was mentioned above that 80% people that poster talked with supported it. As I understood it, that was a group of reps from the Chapters. If the numbers posted above that only about one third of the members are members of clubs, that 80% number cannot be used to say that is the percentage of the entire membership who supports the proposal. Also, that definition of RV is so weak. Let's keep this the Family MOTOR COACH Association. Thank you for your time.

Thanks for the reply Bill. The iShift had 10 gears. I am sure I didn't mention that it was an automatic transmission. The company I worked for went to those a few years ago. I had always been told that your mileage decreased by 10% for every 10 miles per hour you increased your speed over about 50-55 mph. Here is a quote I found on a website after reading your post: "Increasing your highway cruising speed from 55mph (90km/h) to 75mph (120km/h) can raise fuel consumption as much as 20%. You can improve your gas mileage 10 - 15% by driving at 55mph rather than 65mph (104km/h)." So, if one is getting 6mph, a 10% decrease would be .6 mpg or down to 5.4 mpg. My comment about California and speed limits were in response to another poster who said he ran 65 from "Oregon to Arizona and back to Washington, including Tehachaipi and the Grapevine" which means he traveled in California. Not pointed to you at all. The reference was just that not all DP owners are the same: rich and don't have to worry about fuel costs. Wayne

Even though I don't have a DP, I read this group of posts with interest. As I read about the MPG numbers, one thing seemed to stand out. The high speeds at which the coaches were being run. I know there were the comments that if you can afford a DP, you don't need to look at the fuel expenses. That may be so for some of you, but some out there can afford the DP because they DO look at fuel costs. Kind of the attitude that Bill directly above noted in the Prevost owner groups. My experience with diesels is with 'pullers' not 'pushers'. We ran 450hp Volvo engines, pulling 60-89,000 (and sometimes 100,000) pounds all around Oregon, Washington and portions of Idaho and Montana. That also was with 18/26 tires (5-7 axles) on the ground (causing a lot more road resistance than the usual 2-3 axles). This was connected to a Volvo iShift transmission. We would average 8.8 miles per gallon based on 3.6 million miles driven per year. The key to this is that we ran the truck speed limit in what ever state we were driving in. Thus, 55 in Oregon, 60 in Washington and 65 in Idaho and Montana. We also ran some in California where the truck speed limit is 55. Also, the speed limit for ANY VEHICLE TOWING ANYTHING, and of course that includes Motor Homes with a toad, is 55mph. Even though my Motor Home is only a gasser, it is 57 feet long including my toad, and it drives MUCH more like a truck than my Subaru does. So I drive it similarly. Just my two cents worth.

Tricializ: Good for you on your exploring under the coach. My wife does a lot of the same sort of thing and she will soon turn 69, so keep up the good work, and good luck with your RV'n. I understand your situation, but the more you use it the more you will enjoy it. Good luck going to Florida.

Very interesting. I went to the link you provided and noted the items used for ranking the tires in each tier. "That is why Modern Tire Dealer believes four tiers are ultimately more accurate and helpful than three. In order to develop four tiers of brands for the U.S. market, we asked the following questions: 1. How is the brand marketed? That includes both the promotional aspect of marketing and the tires against which a brand is marketed. For example, associate and private brand tires generally compete against each other in the same tier. 2. What is the selling price of the tire? 3. What is the perceived quality? People often associate greater expense with greater quality. We also took the following into consideration: OE contracts; place on the manufacturer’s own product screen; size of the company; brand recognition; availability; market share (see Chart 8); ultra-high performance tire market share; global presence; domination of a niche market; and whether or not a manufacturer had at least a sales and marketing arm in the U.S." So if you look at these criteria, you see that 'perception' 'size of the company' and 'price' have a lot to do with the ranking. Also such things as " OE (original equipment) contracts, "size of the company" ''ultra-high performance tire market share", and "domination of a niche market" were considered in the ranking. Of course a smaller, newer company that does not have a "niche market', or an "ultra-high performance tire" would not rank high. Also, the following comment was added, and I don't know why they put this thought into their rankings at all, but here it is: "We couldn’t list every brand in every tier, but as a general rule, inexpensively priced tires either from China or competing against them would be placed in Tier 4." But the most important thing is that this ranking does not have anything to do with RV tires. In the RV section to which you referred, Double Coin had the 7th highest market share for replacement 'truck tires' in the U.S. I have no connection at all with Double Coin other than the fact that I use them and am pleased. In fact, my father worked in management for Firestone (back when it was a U.S company) (including working directly with Mr. Firestone) from 1939 until his medical retirement in 1971. I am sure he turned over in his grave when it was sold to Bridgestone, a Japanese company.

Speaking of 'broken in half trees', anyone who was living from Eugene, Oregon to north of Seatle in October 1962 saw many of those during/after the "Columbus Day Storm". A hurricane came ashore on that day and wreaked so much havoc in the Northwest that it was called a 1000 year storm. Google it if you want to see some amazing pictures. We were out of power for two weeks, and there were many who were out for even longer.

We have a 1999 Bounder 34V that weighs about 20,000lbs ready for the road. It has about 42,000 miles. We bought it in 2012 and have put on about 12,000 miles. We tow a 2002 Saturn SL1 behind it all the time. I am the odd-ball, as I run the truck speed limits and sometimes less. I usually run at about 55-57. Over all those miles we average almost exactly 8.0 (varies from 7.9-8.15 per trip, mostly long, 2500+ round trip). As this rig is so oooold, we have the small V10 which has only 275hp. I added a Banks system as soon as I bought it, before even one trip, so I can't compare before and after, but it runs pretty well up the Grapevine in California and Cabbage Hill in Oregon. Our previous rig was a 1986 34ft Class A Honey. It weighed 14,000lbs ready for the road. It had a 454, and the mileage was,, without a Banks, about 7.0, and about 7-9 mph slower going up the same hills. There are so many variables in rigs and drivers that one can't really compare one to another.

In your example, you can pay for a LOT of repairs with $60,000.

I hate to be the one that always seems to disagree, but if you are in town, and you are on a two lane road and you are in the left lane, all of the traffic beside you is on your right and that is the place where you have the least amount of visibility. If you have to change lanes, either by choice, or in the case of an emergency in front of you, there can very easily be a small car, motorcycle or even bicycle on your right that could easily be missed in your mirrors. If someone on your left decides that they made a mistake and wants to be n the left lane, they can change lanes quickly and you might not see them if they are in your blind spot and a collision might happen. Yes, there is the problem of pedestrians, cars coming into your lane, etc., but this stuff is in front of you. If you are watching what is in front of you, and keeping your eyes moving and paying attention to what is around you, you are better off with traffic on your left where you can better and more easily see it.

We have only owned two motor homes over the 15 years we have been Motor homing. The first was a 34' class A without slides (in which we full-timed for a little over a year and a half). Had it from 2000-2011. It was time to get another one, and I wanted to get one with a slide, and my wife said she could do just fine without one. Well, I won the discussion, and we got on with a large living room-dining room slide. Now she would never go back. We haven't had any problems with the slideout. No leaks or mechanical problems. I have said that with out slides or with the slideouts in, you are in a Motor Home. When you deploy the slide(s) you are now in an apartment. We love the slide and wouldn't have a MH without one.

That is what they have now, a 15 passenger Ford 350. The trailer is an idea, but they would much rather have a single unit to contend with. Also, if they have one more, which is a possibility, then we couldn't travel with them in the same vehicle which happens now and again as it is. And of course, just having a CDL, which I have with a Passenger endorsement, doesn't make you a safer driver. I guess my point is that it is a Federal Law for you to have a CDL to drive the vehicle, but since the States set up the rules, there is a vast difference between States as to what it takes to get the CDL. The requirements in Washington State, as opposed to Washington D.C. seem ridiculous. Driving a potential 80,000 pound unit with no CDL (large MH with heavy trailer, including the 'Super C's that are really very large trucks with which you can pull up to 40,000 lbs of trailer on certain units) with just your car license, but having to pay money to go to a truck driving school to drive a 29 foot Krystal Koach that has a CVW of 14,500, makes NO sense to me, even taking into account the lives involved. There should be waivers for 'Private Coaches'.

The vast majority of my travels, maybe 90% at this time are in the Western US and I buy all my tires, car and MH at Les Schwab. As you may know they have 478 locations in eight Western states. I have been dealing with them for over 35 years and have been very pleased with them. I do completely agree with the concept of dealing with someone who will be there when you need them. They were the 'go to guys' for tires for the company I worked for for 31 years, and they always came through in the pinch, especially when I needed help out on the road.

Sounds kind of like Fleetwood when John Crean's son John Jr. started Alfa and then his son-in-law Steve Thomas started his own company producing MHs. First the Flounder, then changed to Siena. We can see how well those things worked out, let's watch and see.

I guess it all depends what constitutes 'heavy rain and wind'. If you live in the Northwest, 'heavy rain' is one thing, but if you live in San Antonio, it is SOMETHING ELSE. Where we travel most, the Western U.S., we really don't have to worry very much about tornadoes and hurricanes. If we get a 'heavy rain', especially a 'squall', under an overpass would really work fine. Wind is something else. Drove a 14,000 lb 34 ' Class A in 50 mph cross winds on I-70 in eastern Utah. Boy, was that scary. Should have stopped, but safely made it to Moab. Would stop next time. Have a good time traveling, and keep the shiny side up and the dirty side down.

Washington is another of those states where it isn't necessary to have any special license to drive any size motor home. I have a Class A CDL with Passenger endorsement, so no problem, but my daughter who wants to buy a 20 passenger bus for her family of eleven kids, would have to get a Class B CDL with Passenger endorsement. The stupid Feds say that to drive ANY vehicle used for ANY purpose which is designed to carry more than 15 people requires a CDL. She could get a 45 foot MH and tow a 20,000 pound trailer with her normal drivers license, but to get a vehicle to haul around her family and 'stuff' for a long trip, she has to get a CDL. How dumb is that?

Wildebill308, One of the unfortunate things about how this forum is set up is that you can't 'reply' to a particular person, so it appears that the person you 'replied' to is the one directly above your post. My comments were not aimed directly you at all, and I am sorry that you thought so. But yes, I do feel that driving the speed limit, even though it is slower that the 'flow of traffic' is the thing to do. Call me an old 'fuddy-duddy' for obeying the law, but so be it. It has been mentioned in many threads on this forum that one cannot stop a motor home as quickly as one can stop a car. The physics of the thing prove that. We all know that there is a safe following distance which is based on speed and weight. The basic rule for large vehicles, and I would say something that weighs 30,000, or 40,000 or 50,000 lbs. qualifies as a 'large vehicle', is that you allow four seconds between your vehicle and the one you are following if your are going under 40 mph, and if you are going over 40, one second for each 10 feet of vehicle length plus one additional second, or if you are going 60 miles/hour, and your are 60 feet long you should leave seven seconds between you and the car you are following. In addition, at 60 miles/hour you are traveling at 88 feet/second (no misprint), so you should be 616 feet behind the car in front. Here is chart I found. Of course, these are just averages, but they can give us an idea. The other thing that adds into the equation is the 'reaction time'. And as we all know, the older we get, the greater the 'reaction times' we have. So, according to this chart, if you equate a 'bus' to an RV, it takes, at 60 mph, about 60 feet or so farther to stop an RV than a car. So it would seem that we should allow about an extra 60-70 feet in our following distance to keep us safe. Of course at 70 or 75, the difference would be greater. In regards to 'reaction time', there are two parts. The first is the time that it takes for us to recognize the hazard. The average used for a 30 year old is 1.5 seconds. That is 132 feet at 88 feet/second. Then there is the gap of time that it takes the brakes to actually take hold. Studies show that is about .3 seconds, that is another 26 feet, then add on the 280 feet it takes to stop the rig, and you come up with a minimum of 438 feet under ideal circumstances, like you were totally on top of the situation, not sipping some coffee, or talking to your spouse, or looking in the mirror, or checking your speed. At 88 feet/second, distances add up in a hurry. As to the second comment of yours about what I said about MH manufacturers gearing the RV's so that the 'sweet spot' is at a place where it is above the speed limit, I stand by that. Your comment about being passed by the trucks in California, I agree completely. California could solve all their monetary woes just by enforcing the laws that already exist on the books concerning speeding on the freeways, and especially the "55 for all vehicles towing", and that goes for semi's as well as RVer's towing. Happy and Safe RVing.

Interesting. The comments are about US built coaches needing them to be sold in Canada. We have a 1999 Bounder 34V that has them because it was built in Canada. I guess all vehicles made in Canada need them, even though they are sold in the US.

Yes, in some states is legal to haul 'doubles' with a pickup, as long as the first 'towed vehicle' is a fifth-wheel. The method of connection is the main concern, both from a control standpoint and a security of the connection standpoint. I have hauled three trailers at a time as a truck driver, and you go to states in the east where they can't even haul two at a time, and they can't believe that something like that would be legal anywhere. It is just what you are used to seeing, and what the law allows.

This refers to the 'brake' portion of this thread. I think that the first problem, unless your coach is new, is taking it to a 'dealer' for chassis work. I have a coach on a Ford F53 chassis, and take it to a Ford truck dealer for all that kind of work. They really know their stuff. When I first bought this 'new to me' coach, I took it there for a 'look through' and a couple of things I wanted looked at (including brakes). As they looked at it, they found many things that I wouldn't have noticed or known to look at. The most interesting was that the coach was starting off in 2nd gear (of four) instead of first. They had to install a new loom. Bad news was that it cost $1100 and the worse news was that Ford didn't make or supply this part any more. The good news was that the boss said that he could 'fabricate' one for $900 and the better news was that it ended costing $750. If you need Ford work done in the Portland, Oregon area, contact Northside Ford (503) 282-7777. Going to the people who really know the unit is the way to go. I go to an independent RV repair shop, a 'mom and pop' store, he has been repairing RV's for 20 years and she has worked in the office side of the RV industry for just as long. They just opened about three years ago, and we are more than pleased with their work. In the Longview Washington area: Rightway RV 360-636-1330

I guess the question is, by using Double Coin tires are you "putting your Safety at risk"? I am on my second coach with Double Coin. They have performed well, and I have no hesitation using them. If you do some research, you will see that there seems to be no greater danger of failure with them than with any other tire. For many years I worked for a well known company which makes consumer products, and they are probably the highest priced in the market for what they make. Yes, they are good, but in some areas there are other products that are just as good at a much lower price, and there are times when we 'outsourced' the production of some of our products to others because we couldn't keep up with production, and the items were EXACTLY the same as the cheaper brand, but they had out name on them so we could charge more. I will continue to use Double Coin until/unless I find a reason not to.

This refers to the video that was linked. After reading the comments under the video and here I have a thought. Yes, the secret is to stay off the brake and do your best to keep it under control. Many years ago I had a blowout on the right front tire on a 80,000 pound (40 ton) semi without power steering, towing two trailers. I was doing the speed limit, which was 55 miles an hour. I was able to get it off to the side of the road safely. The secret was not hitting the brakes, even though that is the natural reaction, and holding on tightly as I slowed down. It was scary, especially since I had only been driving semi about two years. Tire care is important, but tire problems can occur with perfectly good tires that have had 'perfect' care. It is possible to run over something that will cause you to have a flat, even a 'blow out', so the secret is to be aware of what to do when it happens to you. The cause of mine was not discovered. There is a saying in the trucking world, that you are not a real truck driver until you have had a blow out on the front. I became a 'real' truck driver early in my career, and didn't have another one in the next 2.75 million miles, and boy am I glad.

I just watched the video on 'reference points'. It looks like a great idea. I kow when I first strated to drive when I was 15, I knew just where on our Buick's hood the center line should be. But when I started driving RV's (34 foot class A) 15 years ago, it seemed that I just knew where I should be on the road. I guess that came from, at that time, having a little over 2 million miles driving semi's. However, for my wife, everything helps

When we bought our first motor home in 2000, we bought a 'Car Shield' to protect our car. It is a cover which goes over the hood, fenders and windshiled of the car. It has a vinyl out side, and a soft white material on the side that touches the car, and this is held in place with 'spring loaded' clips that hook to the fenders. (Kind of hard to explain). No damage after 30,000 miles. And an unexpected plus, the cover over the windshield keeps the windshield 'clean' when towing the car, so when you unhook it, the windshield is clear. This is especially helpful when driving in the rain. We are really sold on it. I know they are still being sold, as I saw an ad in FMCA Magazine.

We have 1999 35 foot Bounder with a Banks System. We tow a Saturn SL1. I drive the speed limit, 60 some times, 55 in California where that is the speed limit. After about 14,000 miles (we bought this four years ago), we average 7.98 MPG. That includes Washington, Oregon, California, Nevada, Utah, Wyoming and Montana (Glacier). We are satisfied with those numbers. Better that we got with the 454 in our 1986 Honey 34 footer.

Dana, It doesn't show where you are based, but if you are in the West, the best place to get tires filled is a Les Schwab. They all have a 'truck' area where you can pull around and they have LONG hoses and are more than happy to check/fill your tires for free.