dickandlois

This product works well for many applications. http://www.lowes.com/pd_213197-39963-D00110101_0__?productId=1059839 Rich.

K. William, Ah ! that clears the water! There are a number of service intervals, depending on who's generator is installed and the fuel used. LP burns the cleanest so the oil does not get as dirty, but one still needs to change it once a year along with the filter per the hr.meter and change air filter according to the hr information in the owners manual. With Gas and Diesel units one also needs to change the oil, air and fuel filters according to the manuals. The larger units need to have the coolant changed on a regular bases. Most generators have set maintenance intervals, like 250 hrs, 500hrs and 1000hrs. the 500 and 1000 hr repair intervals can require removal of the larger units to replace the water pump belt and possible cab. work, spark plugs and wires. Diesel units would include injectors, glow plugs and some other items. Hope this information gives you a good baseline. Rich.

Jim, From under the coach, using a pair of channel lock pliers; grip the drive link from the motor and the shaft connecting the drive motor to the rack gear to see if one or the other moves or if they move equally or not at all. You will be looking for any movement in the gearbox / lash or movement in the drive link with the motor an the gearbox assembly not moving. The locking arm in the motor, locks the motor shaft. So if the motor does not move there is some play in the linkage that could indicate wear in the system. The kitchen slides tend to be the heaviest loaded slide. Is the 1/2in to 3/4in. gap equal at both ends of the slide? Rich.

Thanks JDesiderato! This link should connect you to the wiring diagrams for your coach, all things being equal. I will look them over also to see if I can find any information regarding the wiring for the HWH system. At the bottom of the page listing the electrical, you can get a complete list of all the wiring layout. It is a large file 115 pages. Reference to page 85 as noted below. http://www.winnebagoind.com/diagram/Wiring.htm This should be the information on your jack system, as you mentioned that you had flip up stile. http://www.hwhcorp.com/ml35963.pdf Now the head scratching begins. Rich. Edit, On page 85 of the expanded electrical drawings, there is a reference to the Hydraulic jack in the battery legend wiring block referring to a Blue wire that would power the jacks. So they could have been a OEM install. The HWH manual should give you the hydraulic plumbing and flow control valves and wiring.

JDesiderato, Regarding your HWH 625 system, could you post the Model, Make and Year of your coach for the forum. Then we can look up the information related to the one on your coach. Some manufactures add different lock outs and safety circuits that need to be considered. Rich.

Dapperdan, With a good / correct voltage reading with no loads and the L1 circuit working properly, narrows it down to the L2 circuit. A voltage reading of 8 volts would lead me to a defective connection at the Campsite riser, defect in the 50 amp shore cable, a loose or defective connection at the coach connection for the shore cable, an issue with the transfer switch or a loose connection at the L2 breaker or the breaker being defective. Now, if everything works when you run the generator, the breakers are working properly. That would mean something in the other items listed need to be checked. Have you tried to connect to a different shore power outlet? If only to see if things work correctly, if everything works that would mean a bad circuit in you campsite 50 amp connection. All the other items listed would need to be tested with a meter(OHMS Scale) and visually inspect all these point. Rich.

K. William, Like Explorer mentioned, the number of hrs one accumulates depends on how you use the coach and when generator power would be used and for how long under different conditions. No one really uses there generators the same or camps and travel to the same locations. Rich.

astmi, This is a link for refrigerator seals. The one pictured in the link may not fit, but you can call them with you seal dimensions and see what they have to offer. Hope the information gets you started to a solution. http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Refrigerator-or-Freezer-Door-Gasket/WR24X433/1979 Rich.

Jack, there are a number of them. Google signal tracers. There are so many and some are on the high side cost wise, so look over some of them to find something that you think would work for you, and other applications that it might work down the road; post your choices and I will review them for you. Tom Butler posted some information on the location of the solar wiring that might be helpful also. As he mentioned the amount of solar power you are considering, might require an increase in the wire gauge. Post you thoughts and the forum members will be willing to do some math if need ! Rich.

Jack, The #6 wire you found. Do you know that is one end of the wiring your looking for, if it is, then one can use a signal injector to put a tone on the wire and trace it. you might even get lucky and find the other end. It might not be even close to where it is supposed to be. In that case you might be way ahead of the game by running new wires. Rich.

Tigressabebe, Welcome to the FMCA Forum! I was wondering how you made out, or if the information I posted on your Blog was of any help. Do you have the owners manual for the unit and will the unit work when using the the controls on the set its self ? Sounds like the replacement remote information I posted at the Jensen link did not work. Have any of the universal remotes worked to some degree, like turning it on and off at all ? When Bill chimes in he might have some good information. Think he is a little more current on the newer remotes I have gotten a little rusty over the last few years. LOL Rich.

Jim welcome, When you mention no 110 power on the inverter, do you mean going to or being supplied to the inverter, you mentioned that it looks like it is charging the coach batteries. So with the power off to the inverter / charger what is the voltage reading of the batteries. You might need to read one at a time. NOTE, please make a drawing and label any cables you remove to check the batteries. It is to easy to get them reconnected improperly. Been there done that !!! You might want to get a hydrometer reading of each cell, if they are the wet type. One bad cell can really limit there charge. Do you have the owners manual for the coach? This is a link to a PDF copy if you do not have it. http://fleetwoodrv.com/partsandservice/manuals/1999_AMERICAN_EAGLE.pdf Rich.

Beast Master, Welcome to the FMCA Forum! The first item that comes to mind regarding your idle speed being high is a vacuum leak! A leak will increase the idle speed about 300 RPM, if its a substantial leak. That being the case and the heat around the engine area, I would suggest replacing ALL the vacuum Lines if they have not been changed. Post the status of the lines and if they have been replace for the forum. That gives all a good starting point. Also, have you look over this website, it may also prove helpful: http://gmcmotorhome.info/howell.html Only running on one cup of coffee! Remember to check to vacuum advance of the distributor. Do you have a hand operated vacuum pump? A defective vacuum actuator will have a direct effect on idle speed. Rich. A direct link to the Vacuum system information. http://gmcmotorhome.info/howell.html#VACUUM

uechiyondan, Just Click on your model number in my post and it will open the electrical portion for your coach! Open the Auto electric file, look at page #2, upper right hand corner. Sounds like there maybe a loose connector, some times they are in behind the door panels. Good luck Rich.

Bigwheels, Take a look at this link. Might be something that would work for you or get you started in the right direction, without breaking the bank and a good one to pack. http://www.lowes.com/pd_349204-70-C2002_0__?productId=4764588&Ntt=air+compressors&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3Dair%2Bcompressors&facetInfo= Rich.

John, Welcome to the FMCA Forum! Like Brett mentioned, check with Monaco, the only item I might suggest checking into is if your coach is equipped with 2 inverters and one might not be working. By chance does your coach have and electric stove? if so and its working then both inverters are working and it is an issue between the breaker box and the outlets in question. Rich. Edit, I kind answered my one question regarding the potability of dual inverters. the sales brochure lists one 2000w inverter. If you would like a copy of the Brochure try this link. It has some us full contact information. http://www.monacocoach.com/StaticFiles/monaco/brochures/2007/07Camelot.pdf

jsdelo ,I have looked at all the wiring information I have and there is no indication of a park brake buzzer. The last phone number I have for Monaco technical support is 877-466-6226. Rich.

vtxbiker, Welcome to the FMCA Forum ! You might try to look around the web for RV salvage yards that might have the cable, if you have not tried them. This link might get you started. http://www.yellowpages.com/elkhart-in/rv-salvage-yard This link might get you some help or leads. http://www.dinosaurelectronics.com/ http://rvappliances.visonerv.com/cgi-bin/welcome.pl? Rich.

jsdelo, Welcome to the FMCA Forum! Monaco generally uses one buzzer circuit to monitor multiple items. Is the buzzer always on or not working? Rich.

uechiyondan, Could you post the actual model number for your coach? See the list below. different models can be wired different. Adventurer (G) WFG31Y WFG33V WFG35U WFG37B WFG37C WFG38G WFG38R Rich.

Thanks for your response! Grounds and the lack of them is always a problem! The common cry on the forum is, Check the Grounds! Check the grounds. Good to hear that you are up and running and for passing along the cause of the dash malfunction! Rich.

Hi Neil, Welcome to the FMCA Forum! This is a link to that might be of help regarding you Dash Instrument cluster. Wish I could say that I have used them for service, but that is not the case. http://www.instrumentclusters.com/ Rich.

Gary, Welcome to the FMCA Forum! The generators that are not mounted on a slid and need to be checked or have major / even minor work done on them need to be removed. This is done by elevating the front of the coach, disconnecting the electrical, fuel lines, the exhaust system and the mounting bolts. Then the entire unit is lowered out the bottom and moved from under the coach. Most coaches have a portion of the front cowling that can be removed to allow enough room. A job that requires the proper tools. Primarily a Pallet jack or something very similar that can support the unit as its lowered and then wheeled out from under the coach. Often there are access panels that allow inspection of some areas and these panels very, often by model. Looking at the owners manual for your model, I do not see any sign of panels that would allow access to the areas needed to get a good look at the cooling system plumbing. Rich.

Donn, Welcome to the FMCA forum! The price of solar panels keeps dropping and as Kay mentioned one can find some good prices. From your post it sounds like the coach could be under a roof or totally enclosed. That being the case you will need to consider the power level. Current and voltage requirements, the gauge of the wire, the length of the run and check for any phantom loads on the batteries even with them disconnected using the disconnect circuits. Rich.

Tim, Your drive set up as I view it, looks like a motor driven gear box with a coupler connecting it to the slide drive wheel / gear. The coupler should have a set screw holding it it in place. you should be able to move the coupler left or right, that might allow you to remove it. Then a socket driven by a power drill might move it in or out. You might need a shallow socket and a socket extension, there is one called a (wobble bar / Extension) that allows the socket to stay square on the shaft and the drill motor to be at an angle. Sure makes it allot easier, if your slide is setup that way. I have no clue to what the plastic pieces might be from, a leftover from a prior owner? The rubber looks like part of a seal. Rich.