dickandlois

Alan, I would love a copy ! Think one can attach a PDF file to a PM, but I'm not positive. Rich

ojsmithj, Question, was it cold, like below freezing when this issue came up? Could be water freezing in the air compressor Governor. It controls the air pressure and they get testy at times. Do you pull the air drains from time to time to clear any water build up in the primary and secondary air tanks, and have you had the air dryer serviced? How long since it was last serviced? Rich.

dcatel, From looking at the picture you posted, it looks like there are screws along the upper edge. Will removing them allow the panel to tilt away from the dash? Rich

JFitzgerald, Welcome to the FMCA Forum! More questions then answers at this time. The coach starts OK with the Chassis batteries maintaining a good charge- Correct? The coach batteries charge was low when you first drove it home from storage- Correct? Then you charged them when connected to shore power and the jacks worked fine and battery voltage was12.75, Correct? You mentioned a second trip ! Did you need to raise the jacks before driving the coach? How far did your drive? When you returned did you lower or try to lower the jacks? You mention the entire unit was dead. Chassis and coach or just the coach / house batteries? And the coach starts fine? What is the alternator voltage reading with the engine running? Normal reading? When you now connect to shore power, what is the voltage reading as measured with a meter at the coach / house batteries? What was the reading at the batteries before connection to shore power? Rich

Should you have the plastic Red and Green airline tubing going to the back of the instrument panel pressure gauges, that would mean you gauges are reading the air pressure directly form the systems. Do you have 2 gauges, one with a red Pointer and one with a Green pointer? or just one gauge with both(2) a red and green pointer? Do both pointers move together, ( both going up and down equally or at different times? like one gauge drops and the other one is steady?) Rich.

lorytransfig, Welcome to the FMCA Forum! Try this link and see if it offers some helpful information. I will be looking at the info . also ! Just wanted to post this ASAP for you. http://holidayrambler.com/holidayrambler/service/manuals/wiringdiagramshr.html Edit, Did not find any plumbing info. yet ! Allot of electrical is all. You might get some info from Monaco, but they did not build your unit, so I'm thinking info from them will be limited Monaco Tech Support, 877-466-6226. You might try this link to the RH-RV owners club http://www.hrrvc.org/ Rich.

Things have changed real fast this AM. Went from rain at 7:00 to White out now, with a possibility of 20 in. The biggest issue will be 40 plus winds to blow it around. All travel will be restricted by 12:00 PM for at least 12 to 18hrs. So we will just try to enjoy living in a snow globe. Rich.

RJ, Got a copy of your File ! This is not my strongest area, but will look things over and see if anything stands out. The reason I asked if you where going to Perry was, Mr. Lorntson from Precision Frame & Alignment Elk River, MN is going to be there and is one of the better shops in the country. Think he maybe presenting at one of the Seminars. See, Herman offered information on a location closer to home. Rich

Jim, You can run a cable from the 12 volt batteries. 65 watts is not really excessive and you can pickup a good inverter that puts out 200 watts or 400watts with out braking the bank. Look for the pure sine wave units, today's electronics like it much better !!!!! NOW, the catch 22 thing. Do you have battery banks for both the coach and chassis. The thing you do not want is running down the chassis batteries and strand yourself in the boonies. The distance between the batteries and you 12 volt outlet is needed to to determine voltage drop for a given current over a given distance. So wire gauge if high on the list. So think of a location for the 12 volt outlet that is close to the batteries and run a good gauge 120 volt extension to the set. It is allot more efficient. Rich.

Jim, Your awning would be an 8500 series. These springs are loaded with a good amount of tension, so one needs to use caution when working with them !! You may have a broken one and it would be unloaded, but do not get fooled ! They can weaken and still pack a punch. Think safety when working on them! Link to your part. You can see what they look like. The part numbers are there ID Number. https://www.marksrv.com/aande_parts.htm Right Torsion Spring=order # 3108399.035 Left Torsion Spring =order # 3108399.019 You might try these also. http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-awnings/a-e-rv-awning-8500-plus.htm http://www.g4rvparts.com/AwningParts.html Rich.

ojsmithj, Welcome to the FMCA Forum! Reading your post it sounds like you have covered the common locations The Module(s) are generally under the bed in the bedroom, Freightliner tends to prefer placing them in the rear of the coach, but they could be in one of the rear storage bays. For the air gauge unit, look for a Red an Green colored air line going to it, they use copper to send the information the the instrument panel. So a call to Fleetwood customer service and your Fin number of the coach in hand. 800- 322-8216 They should be able to pin down the location. This link might prove helpful. http://www.fleetwoodrv.com/contact/ Rich.

RJ ! I had the same thing happen when trying to copy over a word file. You can try the More Reply Options button, but to save some frustration. You might be able to just color the information on you post. With red for the before and green for the after settings. Only suggest those colors because they do stand out well. That way the members know what the settings where before and after. The forum works well, but there are some limitations ! Rich.

Jim, There a number of different model A and E awnings. So try this link and see if the model(s) looks like yours. Got to start somewhere. http://hmcclub.homestead.com/awning_replacement_instructions.pdf Rich.

Thanks for the information on the OC difference tolerance for the rear duel's. The fact that most roads have a crown, that can very with every mile of road and how that effects the ware of the tires has been on my mind for sometime. I have always wondered to what extent the crown of a road effected tire ware from inner and outer pairs. Knowing that the outside circumference of 3/4in. can be tolerated kind of puts the question to rest. Rich.

Hi Ron, Not real sharp on what chassis are under the Coaches. so could you post the chassis maker ? Nice list of numbers on the suspension system. Could you clarify what numbers are per and post settings, like maybe coloring the per numbers green and the post numbers Red. Makes it a little easier to come pair things. Do you plan on going to Perry for the FMCA Rally starting the 17th to the 20th. of March? Rich.

Tony, Welcome to the FMCA Forum! If your Micro sensors where supplied by Canton, it looks like they are a propitiatory item and they may be the supplier for the company making the Aladen system, but could be purchased. Do you know who made your sensor? Do they look like these? http://www.catconproducts.com/pdf/MicroPulseSensorSpecSheet.PDF Been reading where these sensors work well with the Aladen System, from information I found on the web. I have no information on who would be selling them at this time though. Rich.

Thanks for the update! It will be interesting to read where and what fuse was causing the issue. Rich.

Ray, Welcome to the FMCA Forum! Could you post the Year, Make and Model number of your coach for the members? This information helps us to know if your coach wiring has ATS system or one needs to plug the shore power line into a J box mounted in a compartment. Then we can offer information more relevant to the wiring. Rich.

Vandall, Welcome to the FMCA Forum! This is a link to a manual covering you system. Read it over and on page 6 it lists the type(s) of fluids used. If you are not sure what type is in your system, have someone check it for you. One does not want to mix them!!! http://www.factoryrvsurplus.com/files/PowerGear_Manual.pdf Rich.

Frank, the unit is obsolete, so this is a part number in the old series. CS-130 With this part number from Delco -Remy, you will need to do some looking to get the proper mounting and amperage. This will not in most cases be a one step and done issue.!!! Remember to keep the OEM pulley !!! to have it mounted on the replacement !!! Part Number. 1105710. Status. Obsolete. Model. CS130. Napa shows the number listed as good. the big issue is it is NOT crossed directly to the 454 engine- mounting wise. The Delco -Remy number and information that might help is 1987 W Eng VIN 20366 Reman Alternator Amps: 120 The pulley setup will NOT match your belt setup, so the old one will need to be used. The other issue is having a service center look at it to see if the casting haves can be indexed to match your mounting setup. Indexing is not a good item for a person not familiar with alternator / generator rebuilding, as one can wind up with a lot of little parts falling out of the unit. Rich.

DwayneCheramie, Are you looking to replace an existing unit or add one? This is a link to the Atwood unit owners manual in a PDF format. It might be good for information regarding what to be careful of when mounting them and precautions one needs to be aware of. Note: the manual is multi lingual and some pages are displayed upside down. Makes one rotate pages with the function keys, but the information is good. Covers information not included with many of the other units. http://www.atwoodmobile.com/manuals/gasalarms/LPCO%20MPD%2031298%2011.07.pdf Rich.

Frank, Welcome to the FMCA Forum ! The Generator, yes they still called them generators in the OEM shop manual for your model year P30 series chassis is, CS 130 series unit and is a 105 amp output unit. Voltage range is 13.5 to 16 volts max. Should get you started in the right direction. One can replace them with a high output current. Make sure you the pulley from the old unit installed on the new one, so the belt pattern and spacing is maintained !! What model Bounder do you own ? This link will picture the different stiles and mounting information for them, plus they can be increased to 160 amp output. http://www.tuffstuffperformance.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=results/category_id=179/home_id=-2/mode=cat/cat179.htm Rich.

rheiges, Welcome to the FMCA Forum! Good to see your post! This is the only link I could find regarding the brake setup when using Tow Dollies. Could not find any reference regarding the requirement of brakes on the towed vehicle wheels that contact the road. They do require brakes that are activated, should the Tow Dolly brake away from the towing vehicle. Weight requirements are all over, the lowest being around 2000 lbs. This is a generic link to all provinces and territories. www.camping-canada.com/towing_regulations_e.htm Rich

Chuck, while you have it in for service and not knowing the mileage on the engine; you might want to have the valve tappets reset. Forgot to mention that the turbo on my unit kicks in between 1100 and 1200 RPM and rapidly increases from there. Rich.

Thinking Oil Cooler Lines!