dickandlois

Mready50, Welcome to the FMCA Forum! Here is a link to the service manual for the model you listed: http://www.fourwheelcampers.com/NewDometicRefrigeratorManual.pdf Hope it helps pin down the problem. Rich

Racesport, Along with the voltage measurements and wiring changes posted by Brett, you might want to check the Horizontal and Vertical settings (adjustments) of your headlights. Should they be set incorrectly or aimed to low, the low beams will not light up the road very far ahead of the coach and it does not take much of an angle change to make a big difference. Rich.

Ike, Welcome to the FMCA Forum! This is one item regarding the cluster back lighting: 9. DIMMING Gauge, pointer and display backlight intensity are controlled by a 5000 +/-5 potentiometer. When the headlights are on, all of these features dim together in accordance with the dimmer position. A selection in the diagnostic menu on the message display will allow resetting to the original factory value (this value is calculated with no load connected in parallel with the backlighting input). If the headlights are off, the LCD backlighting will be on full bright. Rich.

Rob, Welcome to the FMCA Forum! From your description, I would suspect the starter Relay or solenoid that is between the starter solenoid (located on the Starter) and the ignition switch. ALL Connections need to be clean and tight for reliable operation, so a good cleaning of the connections could be in order. REMOVE the battery grounds before working on the large cable connections. The location of this item is generally close to the starter, this limits the length the heavy cable required to supply adequate current to the starter. Often referred to as the castle relay, with a wire from the ignition switch supplying power to the coil and one wire going to ground. 2 large wires run between the battery and one terminal of the relay contacts. The other goes from the relay to the starter solenoid. Should you find yourself in a no start setting and all else is working. One can jump across this relay to start the engine, BUT know what you are doing, using a jumper cable and when the engine cranks ! It is rather unnerving if you have never had to do this as you need to be under the engine in most cases !!! Work safe AND get HELP if you are not sure of this procedure. Rich.

Harvey, There are a number of different Flexible conduit suppliers. Making different styles and sizes used for different applications. Look up flexible conduit on the web, then check the code for use in mobile applications. Rich.

R Johnson. Welcome to the FMCA Forum ! Could you post the chassis make and model for the group. Winnebago did make the coach, but the chassis was made by some other supplier. Other Coach owners with units built on the same frame, could be having the same issues. Rich.

GliderCoach, this is a link to the Service info. for your unit if you need it. Check page 14, it covers the electric heater system and might be of some help. http://manuals.adventurerv.net/Atwood-Water-Heater-Service.pdf Rich.

Dougja1, Welcome to the FMCA Forum! Been following this thread. The members posted some real good information on what to check, replace and why. The only item I would add is to have the valve train adjusted,(lifter clearance checked) once you get the power level up to where it should be. Rich.

Hypoxia, Welcome to the FMCA Forum! Good that you where able to get things replaced, repaired, painted and installed while on home turf. Also, a good testimony for checking and looking things over before hitting the road! Rich.

Jodie, Welcome to the FMCA Forum ! Could you post the Make, Model and Year of your unit for the group ? There are a number of different ways the manufactures wire and layout things. Rich.

After reading Brett's thoughts. We all look at items from different perspectives. The current coach we have is almost 14 years old and is in good mechanical condition in regards to the Chassis. So it is not a concern at the time. Being and older Diesel it does not have any EPA required added system, that do add necessary maintenance and the cost associated with them. Diesel engine has a good 400,000 miles left on her bearing any major issues that could pop up. Granted the warranty period is up, but being a relative simple chassis there is really little to worry about. Now! in regards to parts being No Longer Available. That can be an issue, but most parts are available although most are reman. and not an off the shelf item is some cases. The coach section is basic, some might consider it crud or primitive. However it is sound with just a touch of delamination. When I inquired about it, the repair center just brushed if off. Noted, the 8in. by 3in. wide spot is not worth the cost and asked how long it had been there. I said like 4 years due to a small seam leak that was repaired. All the systems and equipment work fine and I can do most of the work (yet) and have the upper hand regarding how to operate, locate parts and access items. The thought of going through the required learning curve on a new or newer coach is not appealing to me at this time. I prefer to put the money into fuel and expendable parts and run over more white lines. Always weigh the investment in a newer unit to the current cost of keeping the present one the road. When the two cross, one needs to evaluate there options and needs. Rich.

Well, The folks up north like to share, you know. So some cold, Ice and snow sounded like a good idea; so you might have a white Christmas. Rich.

Gerald, If you look at your original post on the electric thread, Andy Shane wondered if you could post a picture of the control panel. Rich.

Gerald, After reading one of the LCI owners manuals, it looks like the IDS system is supplied or subcontracted for use in your Beaver Coach. This is a copy of page 10 of one of there manuals and it sure looks like the calibration and operation are the same. Rich. LEVEL ZERO POINT CALIBRATION Before auto-leveling features are available, the Level Zero point must be set. This is the point to which the system will return when an auto leveling cycle is initiated. To set the zero point (controller module must be fully secured in production intent location), first run a manual leveling sequence to get the vehicle to the desired level point. Then activate the Level Zero point configuration mode. This mode is enabled by performing the following sequence: 1. Turn panel off. Then turn panel on. 2. Perform the following: -Press the FRONT switch 5 times. -Press the REAR switch 5 times. 3. At this point all LED outputs will blink, and the buzzer will be off. 4. You are now in IDLE mode ready to set Zero Point. 5. With a carpenter’s level, manually level the coach. This will give the leveling controls the reference point for the Zero Point Configuration. 6. When coach is completely leveled manually press the RETRACT ALL switch 3 times to set the zero point. For DIESEL UNITS with Airbag Suspensions ONLY: NOTE: You may also enter zero mode per above at anytime the system is in IDLE mode. The user then has control to extend any pair of jacks while in zero mode in order to position the vehicle properly prior to programming. AIR AND AUXILIARY FEATURE CONFIGURATION For DIESEL UNITS with Airbag Suspensions ONLY: Feature is entered ONLY after zero mode programming. At this point the WAIT LED will blink for 20 seconds. You are now in Air / Auxiliary Feature Configuration mode. To enable Air Auxiliary features, perform the following: Press the RETRACT ALL switch 3 times User must do this within 20 seconds of entering this mode. To disable Air features, perform the following: Do nothing, After 20 seconds, module will exit mode with features disabled. Rich.

Gerald, this is a link to the IDs system Forum. IDs leveling system - BAC Forum forum.bacrallies.com/m-1271945911/‎ This is a link to one of there owners manuals if you's is missing it might help some. http://lci1.com/OwnersManuals/Leveling/IDS%20Auto-Leveling%20Addendum-Web.pdf This link is to some other PDF files for LCI leveling systems, that might cross to the IDs systems. http://www.lci1.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=175&Itemid=104 Rich.

Hi Ralph, Welcome to the FMCA Forum ! There is a Amateur Radio Chapter. There is an article in the December issue of Family Motor Coaching. Page 80. I gleaned this info from that article, It mentions Les and Carole Wright, Call sign AA7YC. Les and Carole's are F274078. Les is the Chapter President, The group runs communications nets, Monday, Wednesday and Friday. Gathering at 1:00 PM Eastern Time across the country. Larry and Karla Dayhuff, also mentioned-- F404927. Larry has the extra class, N7LWD and Karla is K4KLD. Wish I could confirm the 20 Meter Band, but I have a feeling its the hot spot !! Happy DX'ing Rich.

Gerald, The level control panels often have the company name and a model number printed in one of the corners, if that will help you out. There are a number of different systems. Some are electric(not on your make), hydraulic, or air operated. Then one gets into the manual, semi auto level and full auto level an a combination of air and hydraulic on some models. Rich.

AptosMark, Welcome to the FMCA Forum ! Well, Having owned one for about 8 years you are ahead of many members considering there first purchase. I would have a per purchase inspection done by an independent appraiser first and find out any information regarding the maintenance. The Diesel Pusher will have Air Brakes and Air Ride. They are the biggest difference between a gas and diesel coach. With just 75,000 miles the engine is just getting broken in, if the proper maintenance has been done on the engine, transmission and drive train. The other items on top of the list is the Air Compressor, Air drier, air tanks, and the air brake maintenance. A 2000 model year does not have all the EPA extras that started in 2007 and again in 2010, that kind of keeps things simpler to maintain regarding the chassis. There are some nice features that have been added, but there is always an added cost to maintain some of them. Check with your state of residence regarding any special drivers license or class up grade. Other members will chime in I'm sure ! Rich.

Tom, Welcome to the learning curve that we are all on. I do miss things after owning one of these coaches for a number of years and eat humble pie often ! An the learning gos on. The Gray-matter hard drive misses a command from time to time also. LOL Rich.

mrboyer, Good Point! I have been of the opinion that the outside edge of the slide was also not completely closing (a wider gap outside as well). Tom, if the outside wall is tight to the stationary wall, then that is as far as the slide can travel and as mentioned by Mrboyer. It is common to have a difference in the floor height as the slide comes into the park / in position. Rich.

Tom, Regarding the clicking sound, is it coming from under the slide? And yes, a relay circuit could be causing the clicking sound. Many of the slide power control modules are located close to the drive motors. Ground connections can cause higher than normal resistance that cause a greater then normal voltage drop, so a good check of all the connections would be in order if you have not done that already. What voltage readings do you get at the batteries ? Many of the motor circuits draw 30 to 55 plus Amps. The control modules for the bedroom slides are often under the beds, for the dining area slides they can be in a cabinet or storage pod. Have you contacted Fleetwood an asked for you wiring diagrams ? You will need the Coach Fin number. Link to a Power Gear manual that pictures the typical wiring layout for an electric slide on page 9 http://support.powergearus.com/techdocs/3010000065.pdf Rich.

Tom, this is a link to the Power Gear Electric Slideout operation and service manual. http://support.powergearus.com/techdocs/82-S0503%20Serv_Man_Electric_Slideout_Sys.pdf The information covers a number of systems, so look over the information and then you can make the call on how you want to proceed. One needs to be quit handy to tackle repairing things and with the information I sure hope it helps you pin down the problem. Page 36 or 37 look like the system you have for a flat floor system. Pages 80 to 110 list the TIP Sheets that might help. Power Gear Number 800-334-4712 . Keep the forum informed and post any further questions. Rich.

gjbaird, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Keeping the seals lubricated with silicon as mentioned and cleaning and waxing the slide surfaces also helps. One can clean the inner portion (set of seals) when the slide is pulled in just a little and the same goes for the top surface / roof of the slide in most cases. 6in. to a foot should be plenty and it can be done from inside using just a short step stool. Should you be a non climber cleaning and siliconing the outside seals, primarily the top ones if you have slide toppers can be challenging. Rich.

Tom, From your information, it sounds like a striped gear(s) on the slide rack gear assembly. That would explain the clicking noise and also why it does not close completely. That being the case, you will need to replace the slide drive and rack units on both ends of the slide. One for each end of the slide. Small slide might have just one drive setup. How big is the slide, length wise ? I will look through my information and see if it includes a file on the electric drive mechanical parts. Rich.

Patsy, did you read post number 21 on this thread and download the manuals, that should cover you model refrigerator. From your information, it sounds like the burner area needs to be cleaned and / or adjusted. Rich.