dickandlois

rlbarklevii, The relay if often located near the starter and the location can very from model to model. Reading your other post. I think you lost a ground, you mentioned all the fuses you could find where good. Rich.

Do you still have 12 volts for the coach? Check for a defective ground that connects the engine to frame rail. This is a braided cable that is often located near the starter. Also check all the ground connections running between the coach and chassis negative battery terminals and the frame. Clean and tighten all of them. Rich.

747 Guy, Check the connections on the 50 amp shore power cable. The ground connections and L-1 and L-2 power for proper orientation. They need to be wired properly, but could you post information on any issues on 50 amp service while at Campgrounds this summer. IF no issues, then it could be an issue with the connections at the storage area. Just because it worked with another 50 Amp coach does not rule it out. You might need an electrician to get things wired correctly. Rich.

Hi Steve ! Welcome to FMCA ! Look at this link and let the group know what model HWH system you have. http://www.hwhcorp.com/ml40256.pdf There should be a valve that restricts how fast the jacks retract / lets the coach down by limiting the hydraulic fluid flow rate. No, you should start the engine to start building air pressure, but the jacks should be stored immediately. Dropping / lowering the jacks first reduces the possibility of undo stress on the coach chassis, leveling jacks and air ride system. Rich

Bluebird, Could you post the make and model of the toad you are considering for the group. As Frank posted some are more of a challenge to wire then others. For some users of the form wiring is not within there skill set. One can always look and glean some information from one of the suppliers of kits to make things work, or buy one of there kits. While others can build something that works without wiring into the existing wiring harness. Your handle is Bluebirds, and if you own one, your knowledge is better in regards to the wiring on the coach them most of us. Diodes are used more and more on the newer vehicles and that can make things more challenging. Just a little slow tonight !! think you mentioned a 2014 Grand Cherokee in another post. Rich.

747guy, Looking at the trouble shooting information that Walt supplied the link for, on page 4 / page 9 printed on bottom of page. It looks like one accesses the furnace by removing the outside cover and the required parts to get to the circuit board and blower assembly. Should it be installed with the extensions, then one would need to remove unit to get to the back. Check the drawings for your setup. They do not make getting to some of the items easy! Look at the flow chart on page 14 as printed on the bottom of the page / or page 9 on the page display window. The PDF version looks to be a copy of only some of the pages from the original manual!! Follow it through the indicated steps. You did mention the the blower does not start and that is the first step in the sequence up to the point the furnace flame lights. Tried to copy Step A page18 / page 13 from the header bar. If section does not copy over. Look at item # 4 and 5. the key might be locating the defective relay if that is the case or replacing the motor. The other issue could be an open circuit brake or fuse mentioned in the information. Figure 16 on page 16 shows the time delay relay that could be bad and it would keep the blower motor from starting. Once the blower starts the sail switch should close and the furnace should come on if everything else is in order. Download the information at this link. Looks like what you have described in your post. http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/subntnew.pdf Rich.

Chuck, Look at the control panel, there should be a number / numbers printed on it. Then post you model coach and Year and I will try to work backwards to find a possible match for your HWH syetem. Rich.

Sounds like an interesting project. It will be interesting to know how much room you have below the floor for things like the black tank, gray tank, batteries and furnace. Items like fresh water tank and a charger / inverter could be at the floor level. Using wire ducts / trays to contain the wiring and one to run the water lines might work real well, but there are always some surprises hiding some where. Rich.

Gerald, Try this link. Manual dated 05-02. Read over page 2. Electric heating element. Just a shot in the dark, regarding the model. Appears that you model year is wired directly into the AC power panel and is on whenever 120volts AC is available. So to turn off the heating element you would need to find the circuit breaker that feeds the unit in this case. On page 5, there is a trouble shooting chart that mentions a circuit breaker, but no info. on what breaker. So look at the ac power panel to see if its listed on the panel door. Down load a copy of the manual if it matches your setup. http://www.aquahot.com/eSource/ecom/eSource/staticpages/documents/AHE-100-02SAqua-HotOwnersManual05-02.pdf Hope that helps Rich.

747 guy, Does the blower motor start? If the blower is running and blowing cold air, I have a feeling the sail switch in the blower assembly is hanging up or has failed. Could you post the model number of you furnace for the group also. Rich.

GliderCoach, Can you trace the AC Power cord from the water heater to where it might be plugged into an outlet in one of the bays and see if it just got unplugged. The next item is to check the AC thermostat / temperature control, that on the older units is connected to the back of the water heater and assessable by removing 4 to 6 screws from the cover. NOTE ! if you start working on the item make sure there is no AC power going to the water heater. The switch on the control often fails and being 11+ year old, it is a prime suspect. Let the group know what you find. Rich.

Gerald, could you post you model AquaHot system for the group. This is a link to a picture of one of the control panels. http://www.rvmagonline.com/tech/1203rv-servicing-aqua-hot-systems-heating-efficiency/photo_02.html This is a link to the Owners Manual for one model. http://www.aquahot.com/eSource/ecom/eSource/staticpages/documents/AHE-100-04S130-04XAqua-HotOwnersManual09-29-04_002.pdf Rich.

There have been 0 recalls on XC vehicles in recent years. The latest was issued on 2007-12-14 due to a problem with the hydraulic power assist system. Approximately 10053 vehicles were involved. Since 1996, XC's have experienced approximately 13 recall(s) due to hazards with various components, including the accelerator pedal, vehicle speed control, tie rod assembly, valve and cap/cover/hub. See a list of recalls for your model year below. http://wemakeitsafer.com/vehicle-recall/Freightliner-XC-Recall-1232668 Rich.

That Murphy person and I are on a first name basis, He whispered Michael in my ear some 50 years ago. So quit often now I laugh and ask him out loud if he is having fun yet !!! Should your slide have 2 rams, and there is some air in the system. You may need to extend the slide and bleed off the air by loosing the connection if the piston does not have a bleeder built into the cylinder. Should the travel of a single ram system be off(not extending or retracting the required distance)Cycling it a couple of times should clear if it is an issue. Rich / D==k

Chuck! Could you post the make and model of your leveling system for the group. There are a number of different control systems used. Rich.

Hi Terry, Welcome to FMCA. Being a small slide, there is only one hydraulic drive involved in most cases. So keeping the slide movement set so the slide moves in and out square with the coach side wall should not be a problem. Think I would try to seal the leak, (if it is leaking around the threads) with some Teflon Tape first. You most likely will loose some fluid, so check the level when you finish. Rich.

I thought about naming ours, The Road House, but the DW thought differently and not appropriate! LOL Rich.

Ray, you have been around air brake systems for some time. So I think with your skill sets, a high pressure feed could be introduced into the high pressure feed so it could be used for airing up the larger tires. A 1/4in. line would be a little limiting to flow rate, but a lot easier to run then larger lines in most cases. Then equipped with an adjustable regulator would make it very handy indeed. Most coach air pumps have a capacity of 15 to 18 CFM. Not something I would suggest for those not real familiar with air system setups though. Rich.

Herman, Very unusual for the one mounted on the front to not have pressure. If there was check valve in the line, then it would be for maintaining pressure in the coach system by feeding air from the tow truck. So I say False. One does not want the pressure to drop to a point where the park brakes come on. Without a check valve in the connection at the front one could use it for an air source and still reverse feed the air tanks to maintain at least 65lbs. of air in the system. If your 98 coach was setup that way, its was setup very different them most. My set up allows for air to be pumped into the system at a point on the air dryer and that point could be adapted to a high pressure supply point. Rich.

Hi Fred, Welcome to FMCA ! There is a convenience air connection on many of the coaches, so list the make of your chassis and coach manufacturer for the group. There is always a catch 22 though. Some of those connections have a limited air pressure of 65lbs. because of a PPV(preset pressure valve) between the 120lb. tank and the connection. Rich.

When you connected to shore power and the Detector went off, what was the charge current or voltage reading of the coach batteries? Its been about 45 min. since your post, have you been able to reset it? And what is the current voltage level reading of the coach batteries? Rich.

Tom, Glade to hear the damage to the sidewall of the coach was not that bad. The DW has been going through the double vision issue for the last 2 years. Its kind of under control with special lenses, but when they get out of ajustment she has 2 of everything cumming at her. Makes for some interesting reactions with vehicles coming down the road ! We wish Louise a quick recovery !

Cadiwa! You might want to give Country Coach a call and get information directly from them. At that time you can also ask them if there is a separate fuse / relay panel for the towing circuits and where its located. Also ask if they could supply you with the chassis electrical drawings. They do come in handy should you have issues while on the road. Office: (541) 234-2167 Fax: (541) 234-2189 www.countrycoach.com Rich.

Andy, that being the case, then you might try these two links. Think race Car surge tanks might work and they are less then the one you are looking at. One needs to be creative and these tanks are made out of aluminum and might be adaptable, need to see how to attach the sensor. http://pitstopusa.com/i-5060864-howe-aluminum-surge-tank.html http://pitstopusa.com/i-5063621-canton-coolant-expansion-fill-tank.html My surge tank is above the radiator and then an overflow line runs into the overflow tank. keeping the level at the desired level and then the surge tank is always full. Rich. After thought ! could the coolant level sensor be mounted in the overflow tank ?

Duke, is it a overflow tank? Should that be the case, then it's not under pressure like an expansion tank. The coolant is forced out from the radiator at the cap area when things heat up, into the overflow tank and is drawn / sucked beck into the radiator when the system cools down. There is a sensor, I think supplied by the company on another page of there catalog and could very well work. I know I read some info. on them in the catalog. will check it out in the meantime. Rich.