dickandlois

Gerald, If you look at your original post on the electric thread, Andy Shane wondered if you could post a picture of the control panel. Rich.

Gerald, After reading one of the LCI owners manuals, it looks like the IDS system is supplied or subcontracted for use in your Beaver Coach. This is a copy of page 10 of one of there manuals and it sure looks like the calibration and operation are the same. Rich. LEVEL ZERO POINT CALIBRATION Before auto-leveling features are available, the Level Zero point must be set. This is the point to which the system will return when an auto leveling cycle is initiated. To set the zero point (controller module must be fully secured in production intent location), first run a manual leveling sequence to get the vehicle to the desired level point. Then activate the Level Zero point configuration mode. This mode is enabled by performing the following sequence: 1. Turn panel off. Then turn panel on. 2. Perform the following: -Press the FRONT switch 5 times. -Press the REAR switch 5 times. 3. At this point all LED outputs will blink, and the buzzer will be off. 4. You are now in IDLE mode ready to set Zero Point. 5. With a carpenter’s level, manually level the coach. This will give the leveling controls the reference point for the Zero Point Configuration. 6. When coach is completely leveled manually press the RETRACT ALL switch 3 times to set the zero point. For DIESEL UNITS with Airbag Suspensions ONLY: NOTE: You may also enter zero mode per above at anytime the system is in IDLE mode. The user then has control to extend any pair of jacks while in zero mode in order to position the vehicle properly prior to programming. AIR AND AUXILIARY FEATURE CONFIGURATION For DIESEL UNITS with Airbag Suspensions ONLY: Feature is entered ONLY after zero mode programming. At this point the WAIT LED will blink for 20 seconds. You are now in Air / Auxiliary Feature Configuration mode. To enable Air Auxiliary features, perform the following: Press the RETRACT ALL switch 3 times User must do this within 20 seconds of entering this mode. To disable Air features, perform the following: Do nothing, After 20 seconds, module will exit mode with features disabled. Rich.

Gerald, this is a link to the IDs system Forum. IDs leveling system - BAC Forum forum.bacrallies.com/m-1271945911/‎ This is a link to one of there owners manuals if you's is missing it might help some. http://lci1.com/OwnersManuals/Leveling/IDS%20Auto-Leveling%20Addendum-Web.pdf This link is to some other PDF files for LCI leveling systems, that might cross to the IDs systems. http://www.lci1.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=175&Itemid=104 Rich.

Hi Ralph, Welcome to the FMCA Forum ! There is a Amateur Radio Chapter. There is an article in the December issue of Family Motor Coaching. Page 80. I gleaned this info from that article, It mentions Les and Carole Wright, Call sign AA7YC. Les and Carole's are F274078. Les is the Chapter President, The group runs communications nets, Monday, Wednesday and Friday. Gathering at 1:00 PM Eastern Time across the country. Larry and Karla Dayhuff, also mentioned-- F404927. Larry has the extra class, N7LWD and Karla is K4KLD. Wish I could confirm the 20 Meter Band, but I have a feeling its the hot spot !! Happy DX'ing Rich.

Gerald, The level control panels often have the company name and a model number printed in one of the corners, if that will help you out. There are a number of different systems. Some are electric(not on your make), hydraulic, or air operated. Then one gets into the manual, semi auto level and full auto level an a combination of air and hydraulic on some models. Rich.

AptosMark, Welcome to the FMCA Forum ! Well, Having owned one for about 8 years you are ahead of many members considering there first purchase. I would have a per purchase inspection done by an independent appraiser first and find out any information regarding the maintenance. The Diesel Pusher will have Air Brakes and Air Ride. They are the biggest difference between a gas and diesel coach. With just 75,000 miles the engine is just getting broken in, if the proper maintenance has been done on the engine, transmission and drive train. The other items on top of the list is the Air Compressor, Air drier, air tanks, and the air brake maintenance. A 2000 model year does not have all the EPA extras that started in 2007 and again in 2010, that kind of keeps things simpler to maintain regarding the chassis. There are some nice features that have been added, but there is always an added cost to maintain some of them. Check with your state of residence regarding any special drivers license or class up grade. Other members will chime in I'm sure ! Rich.

Tom, Welcome to the learning curve that we are all on. I do miss things after owning one of these coaches for a number of years and eat humble pie often ! An the learning gos on. The Gray-matter hard drive misses a command from time to time also. LOL Rich.

mrboyer, Good Point! I have been of the opinion that the outside edge of the slide was also not completely closing (a wider gap outside as well). Tom, if the outside wall is tight to the stationary wall, then that is as far as the slide can travel and as mentioned by Mrboyer. It is common to have a difference in the floor height as the slide comes into the park / in position. Rich.

Tom, Regarding the clicking sound, is it coming from under the slide? And yes, a relay circuit could be causing the clicking sound. Many of the slide power control modules are located close to the drive motors. Ground connections can cause higher than normal resistance that cause a greater then normal voltage drop, so a good check of all the connections would be in order if you have not done that already. What voltage readings do you get at the batteries ? Many of the motor circuits draw 30 to 55 plus Amps. The control modules for the bedroom slides are often under the beds, for the dining area slides they can be in a cabinet or storage pod. Have you contacted Fleetwood an asked for you wiring diagrams ? You will need the Coach Fin number. Link to a Power Gear manual that pictures the typical wiring layout for an electric slide on page 9 http://support.powergearus.com/techdocs/3010000065.pdf Rich.

Tom, this is a link to the Power Gear Electric Slideout operation and service manual. http://support.powergearus.com/techdocs/82-S0503%20Serv_Man_Electric_Slideout_Sys.pdf The information covers a number of systems, so look over the information and then you can make the call on how you want to proceed. One needs to be quit handy to tackle repairing things and with the information I sure hope it helps you pin down the problem. Page 36 or 37 look like the system you have for a flat floor system. Pages 80 to 110 list the TIP Sheets that might help. Power Gear Number 800-334-4712 . Keep the forum informed and post any further questions. Rich.

gjbaird, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Keeping the seals lubricated with silicon as mentioned and cleaning and waxing the slide surfaces also helps. One can clean the inner portion (set of seals) when the slide is pulled in just a little and the same goes for the top surface / roof of the slide in most cases. 6in. to a foot should be plenty and it can be done from inside using just a short step stool. Should you be a non climber cleaning and siliconing the outside seals, primarily the top ones if you have slide toppers can be challenging. Rich.

Tom, From your information, it sounds like a striped gear(s) on the slide rack gear assembly. That would explain the clicking noise and also why it does not close completely. That being the case, you will need to replace the slide drive and rack units on both ends of the slide. One for each end of the slide. Small slide might have just one drive setup. How big is the slide, length wise ? I will look through my information and see if it includes a file on the electric drive mechanical parts. Rich.

Patsy, did you read post number 21 on this thread and download the manuals, that should cover you model refrigerator. From your information, it sounds like the burner area needs to be cleaned and / or adjusted. Rich.

The information you posted, are the part numbers from Monaco? Are they the OEM numbers that need to crossed to one that will fit the new tank? Rich.

Transporting fire wood. The only way that one can carry it and not run into local or state issues, is in the compressed form; like the pellets used in pellet stoves. There are 2 size logs(in this case-they are rectangles) that use high pressure to compress wood chips. They come warped in plastic so they travel well and the cost is not bad. The larger size burns for about 3 to 4 hrs. Winter months they can be harder to find up North and in the summer they are not in stock most of the time. Best time to find them is late fall / early winter in the northern portion of the country. The beetle(s) are different depending on the species of trees. Pine, Emerald Ash and Maple are three that I'm aware of. Rich.

Joe, Could expand on the type of repair shop you are looking for, Chassis or Coach Repair for the group? Well I see that Brett and I posted at the same time !!! Rich.

Steve, Welcome to the Forum! I ditto DD and Brett thoughts. Could you list the chassis maker and model for the group? Rich.

Start by contacting Monaco and ask if they can supply the specifications on the sensor used on the old expansion tank and if they supply one that would fit your replacement tank. You would need the mounting hole / point dimensions of the new tank. If they do not use one with the proper mounting, then post the data on the OEM sensor along with the opening and mounting information of the new tank. Maybe one of the members of the forum and offer an option. The sensors often change resistance or Capacitance when immersed in coolant and this difference is detected by the ECM. Rich.

Tom, There are a number of different ways to limit slide travel. The newer systems tend to use current limiting circuits. That is why overloading the system can cause issues. You did mention that everything looks square so that removers the slide rail timing or binding. The other possibility is to have a helper or 2 push on the slide corners to see if it will fully close until you can have it checked. If you could find out the make, model and any other information on your system, then I might have a tip sheet that covers your particular problem. Rich.

Bill, JB Weld does a good job on many items, but I never used it to repair a table before. LOL I have drilled out the area and placed a piece of wooden dowel in the hole with some wood glue. I use hardwood dowels for the job. Then drill a pilot hole for the old screws. The last one lasted for years and was still good when we traded in for a newer coach. OH, just in case someone has this problem, you can use a wooden match stick or something like it and some wood glue for a good fix until a stop the hardware store. Rich.

Mark, When we leave the North country in cold weather, we always carry 3 gal of the pink antifreeze to keep the traps, drain lines and holding tanks below the freezing point. Should you be returning in February or March plan on re winterizing the coach. Do not forget the Water heater and fresh water tanks or the fresh water lines and the city water line !!!! Rich

Gkleinhe, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Your model coach often uses a BCC(Battery Control Center) with a number of fuses and 3 or 4 smaller relays to control many of the coach 12 volt systems and controls. Do you have any manuals regarding a BCC unit? This system is different from the Inverter system. These units often control the 12 volt latching relays. The main control board is mounted inside a black metal box, with 2 black latches that flip so the cover can be removed. REMOVE the cover carefully so a short is not created !!!! Rich. ELECTRICAL CIRCUIT BREAKER PANELS, CIRCUIT FUSE PANELS AND BATTERY DISCONNECT SWITCH LOCATIONS American Eagle and Tradition (Front Entry Door Models) • Chassis 12-Volt Fuse Front Panel ................................. In the entry step-well • Chassis Fuse 12-Volt Rear Panel ................................. In the battery compartment • Chassis Engine Preheat 12-Volt Breaker ....................... Under the bedroom engine access cover • Chassis 12-Volt Battery Disconnect Switch .................. Rear engine access compartment • House 12-Volt Battery Disconnect Switch .................... In the battery compartment or by the entry door • House 12-Volt Fuse Panel ............................................. Under the bed • House 120-Volt Breaker Panel .................................... Under the bed

Tom, The system is different then my set up on our Fleetwood coach. Wish I was more familiar with your system mechanics. The drive system is most likely made by Power Gear. One more item to consider, I think your storage pods move out with the slide, if that is the case. How much weight are you carrying in the pods. To much weight will cause this kind of problem. Rich.

Good deal!! Have a good Thanksgiving!! Rich.

Tom, When the slide stops moving in, if you try to engage the system again to completely pull the slide in, does it try to move or wiggle at all? If it tries and stops I'm thinking you have a current limiting issue. Now if it does not even try to move, then it might be a limit setting issue. When the slide is pulled in is it square with the coach walls at both ends? IE. slide seals equally compressed at both ends. Could you also supply the make and model information of your slide system. Rich